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#4363 Member Agreement

Posted by tmoning on 02 November 2009 - 03:06 PM

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#743 FMCA.com Forum Rules

Posted by tmoning on 09 April 2009 - 09:16 AM

Thank you for visiting the FMCA Forums, where motorhome owners -- from novice to veteran -- can discuss everything about motorhoming. To promote a fun and welcoming atmosphere, we have implemented the following rules:
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  • 7

#27778 Florida Keys In Our Bounder

Posted by NCBounder on 28 September 2012 - 06:04 PM

I couldn't resist showing this one of our 2005 Bounder 32W nestled into our tropical site for the past 2 weeks at Bluewater Key. Its our all time favorite place to go in the Bounder!

Posted Image
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#14917 Bleach In The Black Tank

Posted by wolfe10 on 13 July 2011 - 06:23 PM

You have heard correctly -- chlorine is tough on a lot of materials.

But, let's back up a step. Nothing, I mean nothing is going to make a black tank smell "good."

Your objective is not to make it smell good, but to keep normal "bad" odors out of the RV.

If this is the issue, you need to look closely at the tank venting. Do you get odors when camping? When driving? The more details, the better we can address the issue.
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#50263 Aqua-Hot Operation In Winter

Posted by jleamont on 01 March 2015 - 11:11 AM

I just pulled the cover off for the season and I have some interior work to do to get ready for this camping season. Our coach is equipped with a electric/diesel Aqua Hot system and two roof top heat pumps for interior heat. The Aqua hot system has RV antifreeze in the water side of the heat exchanger (it's 24 degrees outside). Can I turn this unit on so I can run the floor heat exchangers inside with RV antifreeze in the fresh water side of the heat exchanger system?

Unfortunately my heat pumps will not come on below 30 degrees.

Anyone ever do this?

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#32412 Michlin XZE2+ or Goodyear G670 RV tires?

Posted by thrushl on 03 April 2013 - 07:31 PM

I am a commercial tire dealer. I am dealer for Michelin, Goodyear and also sell some Bridgestone truck tires.

Michelin does not say 10 years. They say they "While most tires will need replacement before they achieve 10 years, it is recommended that any tires in service 10 years or more from the date of manufacture, including spare tires, be replaced with new tires as a simple precaution even if such tires appear serviceable and even if they have not reached the legal wear limit."

They also say " This service-related evolution varies widely so that accurately predicting the serviceable life of any specific tire in advance is not possible. That is why, in addition to regular inspections and inflation pressure maintenance by consumers, it is recommended to have RV/Motorhome tires, including spare tires, inspected regularly by a qualified tire specialist, such as a tire dealer, who will assess the tire’s suitability for continued service. Tires that have been in use for 5 years or more should continue to be inspected by a specialist at least annually. "

As a tire dealer, and with over 30 years commercial tire experience, including retreading, I cannot look inside the body of the tire and tell you the heat history or strength of the bond between the rubber and the steel in the tire. It all depends on the heat history of this tire and the severity of other problems caused from "scrubs, bumps, scuffs, potholes hit, curbs climbed, etc....). Plus new tire quality during construction, etc..

As a trained tire dealer, much of this "evidence" is very hard to see. Sometimes having to look inside the tire is the only way to see the extent of the damage. As an RV'er myself, I'm done with the tire at the end of it's warranty... usually 5 years. I drive the RV for fun and family time, vacations, etc. To me it is worth peace of mind knowing that I am driving on safe tires and they are still covered under the manufacturers warranty. If I am on a vacation with my Family... the last thing I want is tire trouble on the road!

Here is the Michelin warranty...
"MICHELIN® truck tires bearing the MICHELIN® name and complete serial and identification numbers, used in consumer service, such as on a motorhome, according to the instructions contained in this Operator’s Manual, are covered by this limited warranty against defects in workmanship and materials for the life of the original tread, or five years from the date of purchase, whichever occurs first. At that time, all warranties, expressed or implied, expire.

Michelin/Goodyear/Bridgestone??? Depends on Vehicle Manufacturer, wheel specs, weight in all wheel positions, etc.... You need to consult a professional for your exact coach. Different tires for different purposes and not all brands are "the best"... depending on exact tire for your exact coach and weight requirements.

Some sizes in certain brands can carry more load because the "Load Range" is different. But it also depends on the wheels too. If you go up from a Load Range H to a Load Range J in the same size, you can usually add aditional air pressure to carry more load... but only if the wheel is rated for the extra pressure. You need to know this before upsizing or uping the "Load Rating".

There are many good tires out there to do specific jobs. There are also a lot of "not so good" tires since they may not do the job you are wanting them to do. Every brand has both!

When I sell Michelin tires to RV'ers, I will always recommend the Michelin Advantage Program through FMCA. It is a great program that can save you money on Michelin tires. But that does not make the decision on which tire to recommend. It all depends on the situation, use, weight of the coach, etc...

I have Goodyear tires on my coach because they came on it. They are good, smooth tires after properly balancing them. (They were not properly balanced from the factory). I will keep them until they get 4 years old or so. When it comes up time for replacement, (5 yrs MAXIMUM for me), I will evaluate needs from weight ratings and how I am using the vehicle and offerings from tire companies that match my needs and make an educated decision at that time. (I will probably not go with Bridgestone or Toyo since they do usually ride slightly harsher because of Manufacturing differences in their sidewalls). But Michelin, Goodyear and Continental are all in the running as far as I am concerned. It will depend totally on what is needed to best suit my coach and my driving habits.



You make some great points.  I'm a computer guy not a tire man like you so I'll take your advice  I have a 2005 Holiday Rambler  Navigator weighing just under 46,000 pounds.  I only do freeways (normal speed is 55-60) and a lot of them (30K last year alone) often in the south in summer... well over 100 each day.  Clearly the tires get hot.  I'm coming up on 4.5 years.  


I rarely curb a tire...very rarely, but freeways in California and Illinois only have limited blacktop between the potholes, eh?


Recommendations? I have another maintenance issue ongoing and while it's in the shop, I might as well do it all and get the pain over.  I have a tag so I will need 10 tires.  I carry 23K on my drive axle (under the rating guys...) but that is after the masters in Florida set the suspension. If it matters, last year I put 10 Koni shocks on...

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#14354 Coach Too Hot

Posted by TBUTLER on 16 June 2011 - 09:54 PM

There are a number of things you can do to reduce the load on your air conditioners and thus make them more effective.

1. If possible park the coach with the windshield facing north. This will minimize the amount of sunlight coming in the windshield and side cabin windows. (Of course the obvious answer would end here... Drive in the direction you are facing until dark. Repeat until the daytime temperature is below 90 degrees! :lol: )

2. Request a shady site to minimize the amount of sun affecting the remainder of the coach.

3. Use all your awnings whenever possible. The large awning may not be useful in high winds but the smaller awnings should be used anytime the air conditioners will be operating.

The above are all no-cost items that you can do to reduce the impact of the sun on your coach. Here are a few more no-cost items.

4. Cook outdoors or use the microwave when possible. Eat cool, no cook meals when possible.

5. Shower at the campground showers and hang all wet clothing and towels outdoors until dry.

6. Keep lights, TV's and other electronics off during the heat of the day.

7. When parking after a day of driving, open the engine cover to allow maximum ventilation to the engine compartment. Do the same for the generator if you have been using it while driving. You can close these after sunset or the next morning if you are in a secure area.

Now for a few items that will cost you money but will further reduce the heat load on your air conditioners. Start working on these after you have done all of the above you are able to do.

8. If you have any large windows without awnings, install awnings on those windows if possible. Awnings are one of the most effective ways to reduce heat coming into your coach. If your slide outs don't have awning covers, consider installing those as well.

9. Purchase a set of external sun screens for your windshield and cabin area. These are usually a set of four sun screens that cover your biggest heat gain windows. Use these screens whenever you are using your air conditioners. Any time you are parked with a view anywhere other than north, these screens will be highly effective. External screens are significantly better at reducing heat as they stop the heat before it comes through the window. Internal screens are more convenient but not as effective.

10. Purchase and use external sun screens to cover any other windows on the coach that do not have awnings covering them. Windows on the end of slides usually have no awning cover. They are usually small but still allow a significant amount of heat when the sun shine into the window. All windows without awnings should have sun screens.

11. Purchase foam board art panels (in the art supplies at Wal-Mart). Cut them to fit your windows. We cut several to height for a window and then stack them side by side, overlapping a little as necessary. Put them in the inside of the window valence during the day. Use them in rooms when you are not in the room. Put them in the windows when you leave the coach for the day. They will provide some additional insulation for the windows.

12. You can use the night to cool the coach to a much cooler temperature. This will get you off to a good start for the daytime temperature battle. Run the air conditioners through the night to bring the coach temperature to 65 degrees or cooler. It may mean living with cooler than comfortable temperatures at night and in the early morning. Keep the temperatures as low as possible during the morning and into the afternoon.
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#13682 Motorhome With Rear Axle vs Rear Axle With Tag Axle?

Posted by Cruzer on 14 May 2011 - 12:31 PM

Most class A motorhomes up through 40' use a single rear axle. Generally, anything over 40' gets a tag axle, although there are always exceptions. A rear axle has weight limitations. Federal Bridge Law limits any single axle to 20,000 lbs. The rear axle weight of a fully loaded 40' coach gets very close, sometimes over, that amount. So, a larger, longer coach needs an additional axle to help carry the weight. Tag axles are generally rated at 10,000 lbs capacity so now the rear of the coach can safely carry 30,000 lbs and there are no more rear axle weight issues.

Tag axles also help reduce the rear overhang of the coach. Shorter coaches can get pushed around by 18 wheeler bow wakes or strong winds because that area acts as a sail that causes the coach to pivot laterally at the rear axle, making steering corrections necessary. A tag axle greatly reduces that and you'll find that it's much more enjoyable to drive a coach with a tag axle. The downside is that the coach is longer and costs more but I've found that maneuverability really isn't a drawback and we can put our 42' tag axle coach most anywhere our 40' single axle coach went. Plus, it's a much more solid handling ride.
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#13238 New Reputation System

Posted by tmoning on 26 April 2011 - 10:05 AM

We now have a reputation system that allows you to recognize helpful posts or good content. Here are some screen shots.

Attached File  reputation1.JPG   83.48KB   130 downloads
Click the plus (+) sign to "like" a post or give someone a reputation point.

Attached File  reputation2.JPG   77.08KB   126 downloads
Here, you can see that I've "liked" this post, along with one other member.

Attached File  reputation3.JPG   83.48KB   113 downloads
Clicking the reputation number brings up an inline pop-up showing exactly who has "liked" this post.

Attached File  reputation4.JPG   83.46KB   132 downloads
If you go to someone's profile page, a green bar will show the person's cumulative reputation "points," if any. Repuation will change from "Neutral" - 0 points -- to "Good" and "Excellent" upon reaching certain point increments.

So, when you see posts of value to you, use the reputation mode to say thanks and to help others single-out valued replies.
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#53350 Cummins Generator Dies After 2-3 Seconds

Posted by DickandLois on 28 June 2015 - 05:07 PM

The Cummins / Onan generators can be primed after one runs them out of fuel by holding the stop side of the switch down for a good 30 seconds to a min.


Then try to start it again.


Let the group know if that worked and we will go from there.



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#51126 Bob Tiffin "Standup Guy"

Posted by Manholt on 02 April 2015 - 07:02 AM

Your right about Bob!  He retired several years ago and the kids took over and Bob had to come back to save the Company!  He is very honest and is the first to tell you, that they spoiled the kids on purpose....the "kids" are in their 60's and are not going to change their life style any time soon!


Bob goes, the Company goes!


Carl C.

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#51053 Bob Tiffin "Standup Guy"

Posted by JustCruzzin on 31 March 2015 - 01:26 PM

I had the bad experience of retracting the driver side slide while the seat was not clear and bent the driver seat--  now what.


I returned our new (3 week old) Open Road back to our dealer "Mike Thompson's RV" in Fountain Valley CA only to find out 3 days later their quote to repair is $2200.00 "WHAT?"


So our extend warranty only kicks in after the first year. So we decided to call Bob Tiffin in Red Bay and I was quite surprised to get him on the phone.


We explained what happened and Bob Tiffin said he would send a new driver
seat to them at "no" cost to me. I can truly say Bob Tiffin is a stand--up businessman we surely lucked out buying a Tiffin coach.


I can tell you our next upgrade will be another Tiffin, so thank you Bob Tiffin.


:D :D :D

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#50810 Diesel Motorhome MPG-- Honest Answers Please

Posted by FIVE on 23 March 2015 - 07:18 PM

8.4 MPG, Cummins 8.9L ISL, 400 HP, 41', 34,000 lbs, cruise at 60 MPH (MPG goes down sharply above 60), tow a CRV 3,700 lbs.  Coming up on 30,000 miles and MPG has improved. 


I keep a log of three versions of MPG at each fill up:  MPG off the computer, straight MPG calculated from miles traveled and gallons used, and last and most accurate, MPG calculated factoring in amount of fuel used in the generator, Aqua Hot and when at an idle.

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#50802 Diesel Motorhome MPG-- Honest Answers Please

Posted by luckydog1949 on 23 March 2015 - 03:51 PM

I thought it might be nice to have a place where prospective buyers could gather information that they might find helpful when shopping for a new (or new to them) motorhome.


What mileage do you get from your DIESEL motorhome?  What engine do you have?  What is your RV length?  What is the weight of your rig?  What is your normal cruising speed?  Do you tow (weight of toad?)  Please, keep advice on driving habits short and to the point (long theses ruin the information readability and is the same as for cars, trucks, etc.)


I'll start:  We get 6.5 mpg, uphill, downhill, on the flats, towing or not.  We have a CAT C7 (no DEF required - 2005).  36' long Itasca Horizon with four slides.  At last weigh-in the rig weighed 29,840 lbs.  We have, so far, always cruised at the posted speed limit, but not to exceed 65 mph because of our Toad's limit.  Toad is a 2007 Honda CR-V 2wd which weighs about 3500 lbs.


When we had a fifth-wheel, it was hard to find believeable information of fuel "economy" for tow vehicles.  And, don't get me started on the gimmicks touted to increase your mileage...

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#49885 Do Not Buy A Winnebago Class A!

Posted by campcop on 11 February 2015 - 02:15 PM

Can I ask why you took delivery of this Coach in the first place, after a good PDI, some or most of the defects should have been noticed...I truly hope you can get ahead of this...

Someone mentioned Lemon laws, unfortunately in many states, MHs are excluded, depending on the State in which you purchased it, will you be allowed to proceed .

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#48378 Campgrounds in Pigeon Forge

Posted by bizsmith@yahoo.com on 08 December 2014 - 07:29 AM

Another vote for Creekside.
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#44042 Overnighting @ Flying J

Posted by mpierce on 06 June 2014 - 07:55 PM



You stop at a Truck Stop, and are shocked, I say shocked, that you can hear and smell diesel engines!   LOL


You must be surprised when you walk into a restaurant, and they have, ready for it.......food!   LOL

  • 2

#41574 Norcold Double Door Fridge Not Working

Posted by huffypuff on 22 March 2014 - 09:05 PM

When mine gets washed the box trips and red light comes on solid.  I hold a strong magnet just to the right of the red light for about 5 seconds and you will hear a click when it reboots and the red light will go out.  Then you go inside and turn the refrigerator back on.   

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#38834 Satellite TV: Paying for Unused DirecTV Service

Posted by BillAdams on 13 December 2013 - 10:42 AM

When you remove the dome of your Winegard antenna you will see a silver electronics box.  There is a label on top that shows you which switches to set for which service and you will find the tiny dip switches on the side of that box.


The DirecTV setting is switch 8 down and all others up.  For Dish you change that to 4, 7, 8 down.


You can check with the local RV parks as they usually know who the local RV friendly installers are.

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#38085 Extended Warranty Warning: ACC Warranty

Posted by Jridgley on 13 November 2013 - 01:47 PM

I just thought I would share my story with the fine people of this organization and forum:   I purchased a 4 year unlimited mileage extended warranty from ACC WARRANTY GROUP in April of 2012. In My of 2013 I took my coach to Premier Motor Coach Services in Tucson Az. ( I know a lot of folks here have used them, great company to work with, very professional) for my annual checkup for the upcoming summer trip. After the service techs went through the coach they found several items that needed to be replace and or repaired. Some under the extended warranty and some not. Premier sent to Acc Warranty the work order for approval of their part of the repairs. After numerous unanswered phone calls and faxes and three weeks of time, they finally sent approval, the repairs were done, I picked up the coach and we off for the summer.   Upon returning home from the summer trip Sept. 1,2013, I went to Premier to return a level that was left in the coach.At that time  I found out that Acc Warranty hade not paid the repair bill. This was the first time I ever had a claim.    On Sept. 9,2013 I sent by email and snail mail a written cancellation notice to Acc Warranty Group requesting my prorated refund. After aprox. 30 days wait time I began calling to find out status of refund. I called everyday for a week. No return phone calls. Finally on Oct.18th  got a call from Steve Burgess the owner of Acc Warranty, he said to me go F##K yourself and if you want your money sue me.   Please what ever you do, think twice about doing business with a company like this, they gladly take your money, do not pay for repairs and then upon cancellation according to their contract do not refund your money. After posting this notice on another forum I have had several people come forward ad tell me the same thing has happened to them . Thanks for listening, I hope this notice can help  you to stay away from ACC WARRANTY GROUP  Jim 2006 Country Coach Allure 430 #31317

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