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#4363 Member Agreement

Posted by tmoning on 02 November 2009 - 03:06 PM

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  • 8


#743 FMCA.com Forum Rules

Posted by tmoning on 09 April 2009 - 09:16 AM

Thank you for visiting the FMCA Forums, where motorhome owners -- from novice to veteran -- can discuss everything about motorhoming. To promote a fun and welcoming atmosphere, we have implemented the following rules:
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  • Post in the correct forum. Look at other topics and see where your topic should go. Do not cross-post the same question to multiple places.
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  • 4


#27778 Florida Keys In Our Bounder

Posted by NCBounder on 28 September 2012 - 06:04 PM

I couldn't resist showing this one of our 2005 Bounder 32W nestled into our tropical site for the past 2 weeks at Bluewater Key. Its our all time favorite place to go in the Bounder!

Posted Image
  • 4


#32412 Michlin XZE2+ or Goodyear G670 RV tires?

Posted by thrushl on 03 April 2013 - 07:31 PM

I am a commercial tire dealer. I am dealer for Michelin, Goodyear and also sell some Bridgestone truck tires.

Michelin does not say 10 years. They say they "While most tires will need replacement before they achieve 10 years, it is recommended that any tires in service 10 years or more from the date of manufacture, including spare tires, be replaced with new tires as a simple precaution even if such tires appear serviceable and even if they have not reached the legal wear limit."

They also say " This service-related evolution varies widely so that accurately predicting the serviceable life of any specific tire in advance is not possible. That is why, in addition to regular inspections and inflation pressure maintenance by consumers, it is recommended to have RV/Motorhome tires, including spare tires, inspected regularly by a qualified tire specialist, such as a tire dealer, who will assess the tire’s suitability for continued service. Tires that have been in use for 5 years or more should continue to be inspected by a specialist at least annually. "

As a tire dealer, and with over 30 years commercial tire experience, including retreading, I cannot look inside the body of the tire and tell you the heat history or strength of the bond between the rubber and the steel in the tire. It all depends on the heat history of this tire and the severity of other problems caused from "scrubs, bumps, scuffs, potholes hit, curbs climbed, etc....). Plus new tire quality during construction, etc..

As a trained tire dealer, much of this "evidence" is very hard to see. Sometimes having to look inside the tire is the only way to see the extent of the damage. As an RV'er myself, I'm done with the tire at the end of it's warranty... usually 5 years. I drive the RV for fun and family time, vacations, etc. To me it is worth peace of mind knowing that I am driving on safe tires and they are still covered under the manufacturers warranty. If I am on a vacation with my Family... the last thing I want is tire trouble on the road!

Here is the Michelin warranty...
"MICHELIN® truck tires bearing the MICHELIN® name and complete serial and identification numbers, used in consumer service, such as on a motorhome, according to the instructions contained in this Operator’s Manual, are covered by this limited warranty against defects in workmanship and materials for the life of the original tread, or five years from the date of purchase, whichever occurs first. At that time, all warranties, expressed or implied, expire.

Michelin/Goodyear/Bridgestone??? Depends on Vehicle Manufacturer, wheel specs, weight in all wheel positions, etc.... You need to consult a professional for your exact coach. Different tires for different purposes and not all brands are "the best"... depending on exact tire for your exact coach and weight requirements.

Some sizes in certain brands can carry more load because the "Load Range" is different. But it also depends on the wheels too. If you go up from a Load Range H to a Load Range J in the same size, you can usually add aditional air pressure to carry more load... but only if the wheel is rated for the extra pressure. You need to know this before upsizing or uping the "Load Rating".

There are many good tires out there to do specific jobs. There are also a lot of "not so good" tires since they may not do the job you are wanting them to do. Every brand has both!

When I sell Michelin tires to RV'ers, I will always recommend the Michelin Advantage Program through FMCA. It is a great program that can save you money on Michelin tires. But that does not make the decision on which tire to recommend. It all depends on the situation, use, weight of the coach, etc...

I have Goodyear tires on my coach because they came on it. They are good, smooth tires after properly balancing them. (They were not properly balanced from the factory). I will keep them until they get 4 years old or so. When it comes up time for replacement, (5 yrs MAXIMUM for me), I will evaluate needs from weight ratings and how I am using the vehicle and offerings from tire companies that match my needs and make an educated decision at that time. (I will probably not go with Bridgestone or Toyo since they do usually ride slightly harsher because of Manufacturing differences in their sidewalls). But Michelin, Goodyear and Continental are all in the running as far as I am concerned. It will depend totally on what is needed to best suit my coach and my driving habits.

 

 

You make some great points.  I'm a computer guy not a tire man like you so I'll take your advice  I have a 2005 Holiday Rambler  Navigator weighing just under 46,000 pounds.  I only do freeways (normal speed is 55-60) and a lot of them (30K last year alone) often in the south in summer... well over 100 each day.  Clearly the tires get hot.  I'm coming up on 4.5 years.  

 

I rarely curb a tire...very rarely, but freeways in California and Illinois only have limited blacktop between the potholes, eh?

 

Recommendations? I have another maintenance issue ongoing and while it's in the shop, I might as well do it all and get the pain over.  I have a tag so I will need 10 tires.  I carry 23K on my drive axle (under the rating guys...) but that is after the masters in Florida set the suspension. If it matters, last year I put 10 Koni shocks on...


  • 3


#14917 Bleach In The Black Tank

Posted by wolfe10 on 13 July 2011 - 06:23 PM

You have heard correctly -- chlorine is tough on a lot of materials.

But, let's back up a step. Nothing, I mean nothing is going to make a black tank smell "good."

Your objective is not to make it smell good, but to keep normal "bad" odors out of the RV.

If this is the issue, you need to look closely at the tank venting. Do you get odors when camping? When driving? The more details, the better we can address the issue.
  • 3


#14354 Coach Too Hot

Posted by TBUTLER on 16 June 2011 - 09:54 PM

There are a number of things you can do to reduce the load on your air conditioners and thus make them more effective.

1. If possible park the coach with the windshield facing north. This will minimize the amount of sunlight coming in the windshield and side cabin windows. (Of course the obvious answer would end here... Drive in the direction you are facing until dark. Repeat until the daytime temperature is below 90 degrees! :lol: )

2. Request a shady site to minimize the amount of sun affecting the remainder of the coach.

3. Use all your awnings whenever possible. The large awning may not be useful in high winds but the smaller awnings should be used anytime the air conditioners will be operating.

The above are all no-cost items that you can do to reduce the impact of the sun on your coach. Here are a few more no-cost items.

4. Cook outdoors or use the microwave when possible. Eat cool, no cook meals when possible.

5. Shower at the campground showers and hang all wet clothing and towels outdoors until dry.

6. Keep lights, TV's and other electronics off during the heat of the day.

7. When parking after a day of driving, open the engine cover to allow maximum ventilation to the engine compartment. Do the same for the generator if you have been using it while driving. You can close these after sunset or the next morning if you are in a secure area.

Now for a few items that will cost you money but will further reduce the heat load on your air conditioners. Start working on these after you have done all of the above you are able to do.

8. If you have any large windows without awnings, install awnings on those windows if possible. Awnings are one of the most effective ways to reduce heat coming into your coach. If your slide outs don't have awning covers, consider installing those as well.

9. Purchase a set of external sun screens for your windshield and cabin area. These are usually a set of four sun screens that cover your biggest heat gain windows. Use these screens whenever you are using your air conditioners. Any time you are parked with a view anywhere other than north, these screens will be highly effective. External screens are significantly better at reducing heat as they stop the heat before it comes through the window. Internal screens are more convenient but not as effective.

10. Purchase and use external sun screens to cover any other windows on the coach that do not have awnings covering them. Windows on the end of slides usually have no awning cover. They are usually small but still allow a significant amount of heat when the sun shine into the window. All windows without awnings should have sun screens.

11. Purchase foam board art panels (in the art supplies at Wal-Mart). Cut them to fit your windows. We cut several to height for a window and then stack them side by side, overlapping a little as necessary. Put them in the inside of the window valence during the day. Use them in rooms when you are not in the room. Put them in the windows when you leave the coach for the day. They will provide some additional insulation for the windows.

12. You can use the night to cool the coach to a much cooler temperature. This will get you off to a good start for the daytime temperature battle. Run the air conditioners through the night to bring the coach temperature to 65 degrees or cooler. It may mean living with cooler than comfortable temperatures at night and in the early morning. Keep the temperatures as low as possible during the morning and into the afternoon.
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#13238 New Reputation System

Posted by tmoning on 26 April 2011 - 10:05 AM

We now have a reputation system that allows you to recognize helpful posts or good content. Here are some screen shots.

reputation1.JPG
Click the plus (+) sign to "like" a post or give someone a reputation point.

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Here, you can see that I've "liked" this post, along with one other member.

reputation3.JPG
Clicking the reputation number brings up an inline pop-up showing exactly who has "liked" this post.

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If you go to someone's profile page, a green bar will show the person's cumulative reputation "points," if any. Repuation will change from "Neutral" - 0 points -- to "Good" and "Excellent" upon reaching certain point increments.

So, when you see posts of value to you, use the reputation mode to say thanks and to help others single-out valued replies.
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#41574 Norcold Double Door Fridge Not Working

Posted by huffypuff on 22 March 2014 - 09:05 PM

When mine gets washed the box trips and red light comes on solid.  I hold a strong magnet just to the right of the red light for about 5 seconds and you will hear a click when it reboots and the red light will go out.  Then you go inside and turn the refrigerator back on.   


  • 2


#38834 Satellite TV: Paying for Unused DirecTV Service

Posted by BillAdams on 13 December 2013 - 10:42 AM

When you remove the dome of your Winegard antenna you will see a silver electronics box.  There is a label on top that shows you which switches to set for which service and you will find the tiny dip switches on the side of that box.

 

The DirecTV setting is switch 8 down and all others up.  For Dish you change that to 4, 7, 8 down.

 

You can check with the local RV parks as they usually know who the local RV friendly installers are.


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#38085 Extended Warranty Warning: ACC Warranty

Posted by Jridgley on 13 November 2013 - 01:47 PM

I just thought I would share my story with the fine people of this organization and forum:   I purchased a 4 year unlimited mileage extended warranty from ACC WARRANTY GROUP in April of 2012. In My of 2013 I took my coach to Premier Motor Coach Services in Tucson Az. ( I know a lot of folks here have used them, great company to work with, very professional) for my annual checkup for the upcoming summer trip. After the service techs went through the coach they found several items that needed to be replace and or repaired. Some under the extended warranty and some not. Premier sent to Acc Warranty the work order for approval of their part of the repairs. After numerous unanswered phone calls and faxes and three weeks of time, they finally sent approval, the repairs were done, I picked up the coach and we off for the summer.   Upon returning home from the summer trip Sept. 1,2013, I went to Premier to return a level that was left in the coach.At that time  I found out that Acc Warranty hade not paid the repair bill. This was the first time I ever had a claim.    On Sept. 9,2013 I sent by email and snail mail a written cancellation notice to Acc Warranty Group requesting my prorated refund. After aprox. 30 days wait time I began calling to find out status of refund. I called everyday for a week. No return phone calls. Finally on Oct.18th  got a call from Steve Burgess the owner of Acc Warranty, he said to me go F##K yourself and if you want your money sue me.   Please what ever you do, think twice about doing business with a company like this, they gladly take your money, do not pay for repairs and then upon cancellation according to their contract do not refund your money. After posting this notice on another forum I have had several people come forward ad tell me the same thing has happened to them . Thanks for listening, I hope this notice can help  you to stay away from ACC WARRANTY GROUP  Jim 2006 Country Coach Allure 430 #31317


  • 2


#31886 Alert To All AquaHot And Hydronic Heating System Users

Posted by f330021 on 14 March 2013 - 04:07 AM

This is an alert to all Aqua Hot users.

Our AquaHot's boiler cap was stuck and allowed the boiler to boil out 11 gallons out of 16 gal of coolant over a period of I don't know how long! The cap was so deteriorated (brittle) that the rubber seals came apart in pieces when I removed the cap, which I had to use Channel locks to remove. The missing 11 gallons of coolant was causing the temp of the hot water to fluctuate, which I thought originally was the mixing valve; but after circumstances led me to check the coolant level I found out differently! 

After cleaning the Boiler cap neck, which was very difficult on our 04 Monaco Exec, because of where it is located and the size of the AquaHot and filling it with coolant, the Electric Heating Element burned out and I had to replace it. The Heating Element Replacement requires that you drain the boiler. Well there went the 11 gallons of Coolant I just put in by pumping it in with a new Weed sprayer, which was a real chore, because of where my boiler's cap and inlet were located!
I did have an unused 40 gal blue tank, that I was able to use to recycle the 16 plus gallons of 50/50 coolant mixture.

Note: Use Distilled water along with the coolant to achieve the 50/50 solution. This will keep the corrosion down in the room heat exchangers and save you money and
trouble in the long run.

The AquaHot Owner's Manual & the AquaHot Repair Manual says to check the coolant level in the reservoir tank and neither manual mentions checking the level of the fluid in the Boiler tank OR what type of Coolant to use!. The tank has a radiator cap on top of it like a car's radiator. Do not trust just checking the reservoir's fluid level!!! 



I would advise everyone with an AquaHot to check the boiler's coolant level. Wait until the boiler is cool. If you can feel that the radiator cap on top of the boiler (Just like a car's radiator cap) is cool to the touch, along with the area around it remove the cap slowly and if the level is correct and full, the coolant will be right up to the cap and may even
overflow as you remove the cap.


If you cannot see or feel the coolant level go to: http://rvhydronichea...YDModelInfo.htm and see what type of coolant your AquaHot uses and fill it up. Note: you should find out what type of coolant your AquaHot uses anyway!
In any case you should check the boiler cap once a year and replace it every 2 years! You will save yourself a lot of headaches & heartaches, along with a lot of
money in repairs!

:) God Bless and have a supper day, :)
        Larry the Tweety Coach Guy


  • 2


#31654 Trying To Find A Dinghy For 4 Wheels Down Towing

Posted by point2man on 02 March 2013 - 10:26 PM

I've towed two Saturns L series automatics, last one had over 102,000 showing (didn't include towed miles) with no problem from them.  We looked and drove three jeeps and a Honda CRV.  Both had a rough ride as my wife has a bad back and needs comfort we discounted both.  Also, we were surprised the Honda only comes with a 4-banger engine.  After a test drive, it had  no pickup speed in the mid to upper range, just a lot of noise from an engine being overworked.  We chose the Buick Enclave meeting our needs and desires and towable 4 down..


  • 2


#29374 Albuquerque Balloon Festival 2013

Posted by 210driver on 29 November 2012 - 09:09 PM

I would like to go to the balloon festival in 2013 at Albuquerque would like any advice from someone who has went on the best RV park and any other pointers to make the trip better.
  • 2


#25559 Waffle House Limits Coffee

Posted by bizsmith@yahoo.com on 18 July 2012 - 07:26 AM

I'm sure they will miss you.
  • 2


#24207 Michlin XZE2+ or Goodyear G670 RV tires?

Posted by tomgauger on 04 June 2012 - 08:57 AM

Another point: Assuming our coaches can handle either size, would you go with 315's or stick with 295's? I'm told my '01 Monaco Exec can use the 315's.
  • 2


#24108 Limp Home on a Single if Dual Fails!?

Posted by Tireman9 on 31 May 2012 - 07:22 PM

I have read a few posts both here at FMCA as well as on other RV forum sites when the topic of what to do when a tire fails and you don't have a spare. Many times it has been suggested that the person plans on "limping" home or to the tire service center with just one tire in the dual position of their RV.

While on the surface this might seem to be a reasonable approach, there are a few things that need to be considered.

First, unless you have a TPMS that warned you that one of your duals was loosing air, in all probability you have no idea how long you drove with one dual underinflated. If you don't know when the tire started to loose you also have no idea at what speed you drove on one underinflated tire and also on one overloaded tire.

If a tire looses more than 20% of its air it is considered to be "Run- Flat" by tire industry

If you have driven on a "flat" tire it is considered to have been damaged and should not be considered for future safe usage.

What is not obvious when you read the above is that is one tire of a dual goes flat the mate has now been overloaded. I covered some of the info in a post on the Special Considerations for Duals, but there is more that needs to be considered.

If you have one tire punctured and loosing air the mate is "taking up" the load for both tires until it is 100% overloaded. Driving at highway speed will do serious internal structural damage. Most of which cannot be seen with out special equipment like X-Ray so it is simply considered scrap so now you need to replace two tires.

Trying to "limp" means that you need to reduce your speed and according to the special tables in Tire & Rim Association for adjustments for speed, inflation and load your limp speed is not 30mph or 20 mph or even 10 mph but it is limited to 2 mph. That is TWO miles per hour Maximum. Any more and you are damaging your tire beyond repair.

The solution would be to call for service. I would only drive on a single tire for a hundred yards at most to get to a location where I could safely pull off the roadway.
  • 2


#23754 RPMs at 60 MPH?

Posted by Planocat on 20 May 2012 - 03:48 AM

New to me 2004 Dutch Star model 3809 on a Spartan chassis with 370 hp Cummins / Allison 6 speed.

I keep reading about people running 62-63 mph at 1650 rpms. They keep talking about 1650 rpms being the sweet spot. I am not seeing anything close to that as I see 1800 at 62 mph according to my gauges. I did not have the trans in "Economy Mode", but I don't think that changes the rpms.

I read on another forum where poster claimed they had to get to 68mph to shift into 6th gear and then could back off to 65 mph. If that is the case, I never got to 68 as I'm of the 60-62 mph comfort zone type of driver. Perhaps I was in 5th gear? I will call Spartan on Monday to see if they can tell me what rear end ratio I have.

Am I the only one looking at those kind of numbers? What is your targeted rpm for maximum economy?
  • 2


#22438 50 Amp Extension Cord

Posted by Butch39 on 06 April 2012 - 09:51 AM

Will relate my experience with obtaining an extension 50 amp cord. While at the local RV dealer, there was a sale table with all kinds of RV parts that were at discounted prices. Within that area was two new 50 amp electrical cords that was for either a towable or for a motorhome. They were new replacement parts. The price was right, 30 dollars each. As there was a male end on the cord, I had to purchase the female end, at CW, and install........now we have a 50 amp extension cord......and only cost about 55 dollars. Far cheaper than CW or elsewhere................note: now that we have it, have never had a situation where it was needed.....o'well............
  • 2


#1766 Cats and RVing

Posted by Cathe on 09 June 2009 - 01:24 AM

I have struggled with this question for sometime.

I have two small dogs and two cats at home. I have seen many cats in RVs of many sizes while traveling. How do people get a cat initiated to a rig, and how do you live with them in a rig? What about litter boxes, how do you exercise them, how do you deal with them when they run and hide when the motor starts? I have been able to entice one of my two cats to come into the motorhome while parked in front of the house, but she doesn't stay very long. I have many questions about taking them with me on the road. Perhaps, some of the experienced pet owners can shed some light on the how to's of cats in the RV lifestyle.
  • 2


#17478 Monaco/Holiday Rambler Wiring Diagrams and Manuals

Posted by mikev on 26 October 2011 - 11:55 AM

Some time back I called the Monaco service department and was able to get a chassis wiring diagram for my coach via email /.pdf. I tried to get a coach wiring diagram as well but they did not have it readily available. The technician I was talking to said to check back in a few months as they were in the process of scanning -collating and posting manuals and wiring diagrams to their web site for owners to access. Well yesterday I went there and found the wiring diagrams for my 2003 Ambassador were indeed available. This is an excellent service they are providing, the diagrams are very detailed and easy to follow. For those of us who can do our own repairs these diagrams are pure gold. For those of you who will take your coach to a shop these diagrams will probably save you money and time. Just download your copy and have it available for the shop to use. I printed mine as well as keeping a copy on my computer.

They are also putting owners manuals on line. The models and years of the manuals and wiring diagrams are limited at the moment, but they said it was an ongoing process. Hopefully they will be able to get all of them online.

Although I have had limited issues as far as my coach's electrical systems is concerned, I try to be as informed about all my equipment as possible. Another of my projects is taking digital pictures of every nook and cranny of my coach so I know where everything is. Between this and these diagrams I should be able to find most problems.

Here is the url of the HR site, http://www.holidayra...iringdiagramshr


Hope this helps a few of you out there....
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