wolfe10

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  1. Two ways: Check shocks physically. If they are leaking oil (not just damp, but leaking) they are bad. If the bushings are shot/have play, they are shot. And, test them for proper dampening. Drive over shopping center speed bump as regular/low speed. If an axle bounces more than 1.5 times, the shocks are bad.
  2. Excellent question. I e-mailed FMCA's Publishing Director and got this reply: Hi, Brett, The ballot will appear in the September, October, and November issues, with a deadline for returning by mail of November 30, 2017. I’m guessing more communication will take place with members, but I’m not sure what the plan is. Chris’ first day back from Indy was today so we haven’t met.
  3. To post a link: Highlight and copy the link-- easy on another window. Click on the "chain link" symbol above (hoovering over it says "link"). Paste the link. Click "insert into post.
  4. Trynforpar, If you really are interested in finding a service company in your area, you might want to go back and edit the title to reflect that.
  5. OR, in lieu of or in addition to: pull the positive from an "ignition hot" location. Key off, no power to it.
  6. Well said!
  7. Steve, I am reluctant to send a new member of the FMCA Forum to another website, but for that very coach-specific issue, you might want to post on the Safari-specific site: https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Safarifriends/conversations/messages
  8. Correct. Replacing sway bar bushings is quite simple with basic hand tools and no "heavy lifting" is needed.
  9. In a word, NO. Changing sway bar bushings, or even sway bars will NOT affect caster, camber or toe.
  10. Exactly correct. It is not just your fueling, but the guy who may be filling across the island from you.
  11. Correct. Absolutely do NOT run the exhaust fans unless the temperature of air at the exhaust fan is higher than the temperature outside. Said another way, only if the inside is superheated-- for the first couple of minutes. There is no "free lunch". Removing 2000 CFM of interior air WILL be replaced by 2000 CFM of outside air at whatever temperature and humidity it is. And, yes humidity is a real consideration, as it takes a lot of BTU's to condense that water vapor into condensate.
  12. That is certainly one perspective. But a counter perspective (and one I agree with) is that in today's world, where virtually everyone starts with searches for answers on-line is that the FMCA Forum is a very low cost way to introduce motorhome owners to the benefits of FMCA membership. That "click" is a lot more cost effective way of reaching prospective members than print ads, etc. If, for example, a search for three or four separate motorhome-related issues all land the FMCA Forum in the top couple of hits, there is a lot more likelihood of that person joining FMCA than if they did not have that exposure to us.
  13. I have not replaced one recently enough to give "what is best 15k today". Post what you can about what you need-- certainly if this is ducted/non-ducted.
  14. A 15 degree delta suggests a poorly functioning A/C. Were this my 28' Trek, I would replace the A/C with a 15k unit.
  15. What was temperature as measured at the air return and then at the A/C outlet/vent? Said another way, what was the temperature delta???