AndyShane

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About AndyShane

  • Birthday 11/18/56

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    ndandyshane

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Pecan Plantation, Texas
  • Interests
    Vintage aircraft, seaplane flying, cycling, tennis, scuba, gardening, language study, attending AKC Agility competitions with KayCee and "The Girls."

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  1. Not at all. I'm sure it works well for some folks. Funny, that they steadfastly refuse to make refunds if buyers discover it doesn't work for them. This was in my Inbox today. Thank you for contacting CoPilot. We're sorry to hear you are disappointed with our CoPilot RV app. Some of the topics you mention in your App Store review we believe we can clarify for you, and for some of the other issues you've described we'd like to see if we can put them right. POIs only showing nearby. When searching for POIs the app by default searches those nearby. You can switch by tapping on " Search nearby" to "In Different City" if you have not yet entered a stop. If you already have a stop entered you'll have "On My Route" and "At My Destination" as your options. Missing POIs If you could provide us with some additional information on which ones there are, we can double check with our POI data provider. Routing Issues This may be caused by a missing size restriction within the map data. If you could provide us with the details of the sample routes you tried, and where the trouble points are we'll certainly investigate what the issue is and try to correct. Maximum Dimensions Your use case for the RV app with a 45ft RV and 20ft car hauler is something we'd like to look at in more detail with our product management team so we'll keep you posted on that item. If you have further questions; please do not hesitate to let us know. Regards, CoPilot Consumer Support
  2. Howdy from down the street, in Pecan Plantation! I too was censored on iRV2 for reporting violations to their own rules regarding illegal political discussions. Worse, if you even discuss administrative actions themselves, that is considered a violation. Whenever I'm tempted to participate more vigorously at iRV2, I only need look at my Profile section, where record of those partisan snipes are archived.
  3. I'll never get over iRV2 sanctioning me for asking them to simply enforce their own rules. Worse, if you look at my account five years later, the nasty reminder of that episode is preserved. Worse, even mentioning iRV2 moderator rulings is, in itself, an infraction. FMCA is a vastly superior group, albeit smaller. I'll share a screenshot. Note that I am a Senior Member, with 928 postings. My lone blog entry: a link to FMCA
  4. Here we are again... Time flies when we're all having fun, eh? I'm sitting here on a Tokyo layover, getting my ducks in a row for a second repack. After posting this original thread, I took the rig to a Weatherford, Texas truck repair shop and basically paid two hours of shop time for them to get up to speed. Accurate records of what they did weren't kept; so, now I intend to do the homework ahead of time and possibly farm out the work to a local family-owned RV repair shop that is trying to get started in the business. In the interim, we've put nearly 20,000 miles on the RV. Two years have now passed, and I'm sensing the need for a repack albeit one to be done at my leisure. One caveat: other lubrication requirements for the Roadmaster chassis have not been overly conservative. Just the other day, I laid underneath and pumped endlessly to fill the drive shaft slip joint (I jammed a right-angle pick with a conspicuous yellow handle into the vent hole, a huge convenience) before fresh grease finally blossomed from the front seal. Similarly, the kingpin lube points seemed in need of grease; sobering, since I greased it six months and 5,000 miles before that. I did a friend's Essex and found that his slip joint was dry and caked to the point that we never got grease to push out of it, even after dumping an entire cartridge into the void. Word to the wise. Speaking of wisdom, at sixty, I'm convinced that I now have a choice between a battery-powered grease gun -- my Campbell Hausfield air gun has never worked -- and rotator cuff surgery! Lever-guns are for kids and maybe trophy wives with their own coveralls. Beaver owners might better describe themselves as orphans. Yes, our parents sadly persished in the proverbial shipwreck, and now our well-intentioned stepmother at REV Group is trying to get their affairs in order. Try as she may, it is not the same as having a rig whose original support network remains intact. When I called them about my bearing specs, they referred me to Dana Spicer, the axle manufacturer. At Dana, one knowledgeable tech guy revealed that the model, part and serial numbers of my axle identifies it as a beam sold to Beaver for installation on its Patriot line. One of three companies had then sold wheel-ends to Beaver for use on the beam, he added. Several hours of detective work later, I'd found Mr. Dallas Garrison at Webb, manufacturer of such hubs. Using pictures I supplied, he identified the hub as a 2574 model, and gave me numbers for the cups, cones and seals. Just so this precious information is safeguarded, and in case a fellow Patriot owner finds him or herself in a similar bind, here they are. Inner Cup HM212011 Inner Cone HM212049 Outer Cup 3720 Outer Cone 3782 Seal # Stemco 383-0136 I have the 500 lb torque wrench and dial indicator needed to do this in my own garage; am wondering if anyone else has done the task at home. Ideally, we have some heavy truck mechanics here that can weigh in on change interval, shop procedures, etc. All the earlier responses to this query are deeply appreciated. Without you all, I'd be lost and probably more than a little dangerous. Photo: If you're not wearing, tasting the grease, you're probably not doing it right. Right?
  5. Hey, Brett Sorry it took so long. When I posted this, I turned to the mother-in-law and said you would definitely have the answer; and, that I wouldn't be surprised if the answer came within minutes. A technical glitch kept me from signing in, earlier. This bus came to us with zero manuals, so I downloaded a Dynasty manual for the next year, same chassis. It calls for ISO 46 hydraulic fluid. The filter specified for my mount/engine is the MS Filtri CSG100P10A with a 10 micron rating. The NAPA 1759 and WIX 51759 that cross-reference are also 10 micron filters; but, I notice that "None" is the listed "By-Pass Valve Setting-PSI: None." Additionally, if you trace the MS Filtri model to Fram, it cross-references back to a different NAPA number. Of course, I've used the NAPA and Wix variants in the past, with no ill effects. Still, considering what is at stake, I'll first order an MS Filtri replacement, plug it in, and see if the bypass pin extends. Meanwhile, I'll poll other Patriot Thunder Owners and see if they're directed to use Dex III or ISO 46. And, keep degreasing my repaired radiator. The oozing of hydraulic fluid that persists means nothing, for the first month, after I painted the entire engine and compartment with the stuff!!
  6. A question for our engineering types: after a night with temperatures in the teens two weeks ago, I started dripping hydraulic fluid. The culprit was identified by mechanics in Maryland as a cracked radiator core, the leak minor enough to continue home to Texas. In Tennessee, the rate of leakage had accelerated. As I poured the coals to the rig coming out of a KOA in Newport, a sudden brown geyser appeared in my mirror, the steering hardened. I eased onto the shoulder, continued another quarter-mile to a truck repair shop. Sure enough, the core had a inch-long crack along an aluminum weld. That evening, I put on a new filter, installed the repaired core, leak-checked it, pushed in the distended bypass indicator. We had normal ops for the next three hundred miles, day of driving. Then, in Arkansas, the unthinkable: an hour into our day, the steering hardened! I parked and dashed to the engine compartment. Oddly, the repaired radiator was dry as a bone. Rather, fluid was gushing from around the filter. Now, this isn't my first rodeo. I've replaced that filter several times, did it in accordance with instructions. It is one of those with a large gasket that has to be tucked up, inside the housing. But, I'd carefully traced my finger around the entire circumference, assured that it was postioned correctly, tightened to specs. Now, a quarter-inch loop of gasket protruded, alongside the filter. Damned. I wiped everything down, drove the toad to a nearby store and bought yet another batch of hydraulic fluid. Having reinserted the gasket, I snugged the filter extra tight, refilled the system, ran it and retightened. My installation had not been any different than many times before, but the gasket -- they tend to be a bit oversized -- popped out nonetheless. But, I'm concerned because the bypass indicator on the filter housing is extended, will not reset. Right now, we're ops-normal, but I'm not comfortable with this. Any thoughts?
  7. Reposted from iRV2 I thought I'd float this, in case it helps anyone. A few maintenance and operational items from this Texas - Maryland - South Carolina - Texas trip in freezing weather. Power Steering I've done two roadside repairs,* one to remove and replace a cracked hydraulic cooler core, the other to correct a filter "gasket hernia." At issue: higher pressures associated with cold weather ops. In both cases, the rig was warmed up for ten minutes before driving. Water Hose We forgot to retract the water hose after filling one night, and entire day in a heated compartment was not enough to thaw it. Worse, to save space (we were hauling freight), I'd hung the spare drinking water hose (to use for manually filling) in an unheated trailer, so it was a solid coil of ice. The solution was to completely extend the coach hose from its reel, coil it inside a bucket of hot water. Remember, those shutoff valves might not function, in extreme cold. I see lots of frozen lakes around various rigs. Batteries We've been involved with two different rigs whose owners inadvertantly ran down house batteries using a space heater driving down the highway. Running the generator enroute like we all do in the summer for air conditioning is the solution. Aqua Hot Remember that AH doesn't heat the coach unless the AH block heater is on, driving. Else, you have to run the diesel burner, too. At the campground, diesel and 110VAC functions can be run together. The added advantage of this technique: you don't have to remember to turn on the AH block heater for the overnight. Generator It might not start, due to cold. I'm going to invest in a block heater for the generator. Chassis Batteries A diesel mechanic buddy turned me on to Cabela's Pro Series battery tenders. I mounted one on the outside wall of my chassis battery bay, plugged it into the aft block heater receptacle. It optimizes those batteries nightly for that critical morning start under arctic conditions. Sewer Of course, leaving a sewer hose outside can be just as lethal as leaving a potable water hose out. Inchworm the hose to rid it of gray water, and stow before bed. To prevent slide-valve freezing, I pack a wet towel around the port through which the power line extends, eliminating the cold draft that enters my utilities compartment downstairs. Tires Removing a TPMS transmitter from a frozen valve stem for manual measurement will earn you a surprise: it will free flow. Tires should be inflated to manufacturer's load inflation table value -- don't use the placard by the driver's seat -- minus 1 PSI for each ten degrees under 65F. *If you dump power steering fluid, about ten seconds of normal steering is available, after which it gets progressively harder. In my rig, manually steering into a parking space (I was lucky enough to blow my core 1/4 mile from a truck repair shop) required more than 100 lbs of force on the wheel.
  8. I had an interesting experience yesterday, in Lipan, Texas.It is a town of 430 people, along FM 4 north of Granbury. I was traveling northbound in support of a veterans' event at Sweetwater.Approaching the town, I backed off at the 30 mph sign shown below, but not fast enough. As a result, an officer identifying himself as a police lieutenant for the town pulled me over and issued a $171 citation.So, if bridging the confluence of state highways that lead up from Hill Country into Granbury, and Interstate 20 to the north, either avoid FM 4 or use great caution traversing this route.Any other such places out there, lying in wait for unsuspecting motorists?
  9. Thanks! I'll drop 'em a msg.
  10. I'm in search of the 18" Aspen Lodge "Morning Breeze" tile found in mid-2000 Monacos, Beavers and Safari coaches. Does anyone have unwanted spares -- maybe you now have an upgraded floor -- or a source for the tile? It is made by Daltile, AL-60 18181P. There are online sources, but each shows that the item is no longer in stock.
  11. I've driven about a dozen gassers and DPs, from Class C to Prevost. The wife, too. We agree that a sweet spot in value, utility, site access, ease of driving, fuel economy, depreciation, maintenance seems to happen at 40' in a basic diesel pusher with 350-400 hp.
  12. I've been wrestling with a full-wall slideout topper since I bought this 2007 Beaver Patriot Thunder. As with most things, the problems trace back to incorrect maintenance. Early in its history, the long mast (these systems are engineered for much shorter lengths) cradle became loose, and the fabric-wrapped roller tube fell onto the top of the slideout. Someone replaced it with their own hardware, long boltsets which tore at the fabric and chewed holes in the aluminum extrusion (pn 1110089-30 Slide Lead Rail) in which the spline is retained. To compound their incompetence, they lined the cradle with duct tape, which broke down over the years and formed a sticky length of rope, impeding the roller action and shattering the mounting plates on either end. All that stress loosened the mounting brackets. In attempting to clean up their mess, I'm faced with grinding out the damaged backside of the second articulating rail. It is only a $60 item, but shipping for a single 30' length is a whopping $700. By comparison, an entire new topper system is $3,800 plus about $1,000 in shipping. The $1 million question for me: did the dealer from whom I bought the rig know this cascading maintenance failure was in play? If they did a decent inspection of the rig -- they had it long enough to install a Silverleaf system and day-night shades, front to back -- it would've been apparent. I noticed small tears in the topper fabric, some chipped paint on the outer portion of the rail. Of course, there was no way to see the massive damage inside until I cut the old fabric off, today. Recommended Action: Inspect topper fabric for tears, and observe extension and retraction for smooth operation. Lift the cover on longer toppers and check for security of the cradle mounting hardware, and check to see that nothing is binding during movement. Remove end covers and carefully inspect pn 1511100-00R Side Plate Assembly with Gudgeon Support to determine that the corners of the support adjacent countersunk holes have not cracked or broken (symptoms of binding). Following Girard procedures, remove tension from the topper, detach the topper fabric, and tighten the Allen screws that hold the entire assembly on the RV. I found 20% of mine either loose or missing. Time in service: 7 years Mileage: 30,000 miles Failure to accomplish these checks can lead to the assembly coming off the RV at highway speeds, which can cause injury or death to others. [My plan is to use aircraft building/repair techniques to rivet the cradle to the extrusion. Allen bolts will be dipped in thread locker, and then have torque seal applied after installation. The rail is unusable, I'll have Girard cut three ten-foot sections for shipping. This plan passes muster with my expert on all things Girard, Kevin Waite. He can be contacted at 541 953-6162 or by email at kvn.wt.7629@gmail.com.] Followup: Girard mentioned that the articulating extrusions are stacked, i.e. the fabric can be mounted to either. I used a bungee to hold them upright and closed the slide. To my absolute horror, the extrusion did not clear the mounting brackets, bending it backwards the same way your air conditioning unit did, that time you drove under the 12' overpass with a 12'2" rig Really. This is a manufacturing error by Beaver. The poor stupid technicians who rebuilt the cradle and saw the worn fabric simply didn't see that, upon closure, the fabric was sandwiched between crushed sections, and then mauled as the rig moved down the highway. Still, check your toppers. That tube for one weighs some fifty pounds and will leave a mark if it hits anyone, catapulted off your rig at seventy feet per second. Chances are, the strip didn't bind against the roller assembly when the bus rolled off the line. At 30 feet, a small amount of sag took place, and soon the parts started binding. Inept technicians failed to see what was happening, and inadvertantly made the situation worse. You humble correspondent is simply the boy with the shovel that follows their ugly parade...
  13. I'll have to look that up for mine. Thanks for the tip, Brett.
  14. Thanks! I get paid to hang around with (other) pilots, we've devoted many years and some bent metal in the pursuit of a clean getaway, trip, arrival. More so than in aviation, y'all face daunting threats to people and equipment: each CG has a variety of obstacles carefully hidden and diabolically placed, and no two are alike. There's not a single one of you who wouldn't be superb, taxiing a 777 around any major airport, after what you've been through with your MHs. Now, there is a risk that comes along with a checklist, particularly a long one: rushing through it. I have to force myself to pause at each item and visualize the action, or even query the wife out loud. Except for the simplest of pull-thru departures, we marshal every time. One my closest friends, a newly-retired dentist, just skipped that and caught a pole that was barely visible, low and on the passenger side of the site, as he swung wide to miss a parked car across the lane. He crushed a door on his Essex. That right side damage down low seems to be so common in the Class A's; two in our community club have dents running the entire wheelbase. Thanks again for the kind words, enjoy our "prime time" of the year for using the rigs