AndyShane

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About AndyShane

  • Birthday 11/18/56

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    ndandyshane

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Pecan Plantation, Texas
  • Interests
    Vintage aircraft, seaplane flying, cycling, tennis, scuba, gardening, language study, attending AKC Agility competitions with KayCee and "The Girls."

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  1. Dallas Area RV Park Recommendation

    I use the Treetops RV Resort near The Parks Mall in Arlington, every time I go to training at the flight academy. While I love The Vineyards, passing planes grate on me: I'm reminded of work every moment of the day. Treetops is a decent park that is a quiet oasis among trees in the heart of a busy suburb. You could Uber four miles to the north to the Bell Station of the Trinity Railway Express, use the train to go straight to downtown Dallas.
  2. C 13 Thermostat/Regulator Change

    Sources talk about how easy it is to change, that the "regulator" as thermostats are sometimes called in Caterpillar-speak should be changed every few years.I loosened my thermostat housing, and all associated connections except for one: it comes affixed to a 1.25" metal tube presumably leading to the water pump. Thinking the tube (it is hard to see) was a hose, I was inching the housing upward, having detached the hose end below. Two things surprised me: the hose end below was unrelated, and the metal tube inched out of the housing, suggesting a slip joint. 'Problem is, it stopped coming out after two inches of upward travel.In all of the photos of the housing, there is simply an open hole where the tube is stuck, on mine. Can anyone help? This is not supposed to be a difficult job, but I'm stalled.
  3. Replacing Shocks

    I have some info to add to this great thread. After scuffing the front end a few times on my 50K miles 2007 Patriot, I talked to Source Engineering about their tuned Bilsteins. As a test, I installed four up front. The six in the rear can wait, since they seem okay. Ride dampening is improved. Some thoughts: Torque values are 220 ft lbs for the larger upper bolt, 150 for the lower bolts. Socket sizes are 1 1/8" for the uppers, 7/8" for the lower nut and 13/16" for the lower bolt head. A mild ream of 11/16" needs to be done on the upper bushings for fit. The saddle accommodating the lower bushing is 1/16" wider, and a washer shim is required. Source Engineering says to disconnect the ride-selection wire at the top of each older shock, secure it. Disconnect the red warning light in the cockpit. Job difficulty is moderate, due to the wrestling part. A bottle jack can raise and lower the frame corner when removing the shock, gently raised until the bottom bolt spins freely, during removal. A slight change is required to align the bolt hole of the incoming new shock. Source instructed me to keep the old, wired shocks. Some of you are apparently hardcore and rebuild them. I have them in stock, if anyone wants to buy them. Two have intact plugs.
  4. Moving from CA to GA

    Not at all. I'm sure it works well for some folks. Funny, that they steadfastly refuse to make refunds if buyers discover it doesn't work for them. This was in my Inbox today. Thank you for contacting CoPilot. We're sorry to hear you are disappointed with our CoPilot RV app. Some of the topics you mention in your App Store review we believe we can clarify for you, and for some of the other issues you've described we'd like to see if we can put them right. POIs only showing nearby. When searching for POIs the app by default searches those nearby. You can switch by tapping on " Search nearby" to "In Different City" if you have not yet entered a stop. If you already have a stop entered you'll have "On My Route" and "At My Destination" as your options. Missing POIs If you could provide us with some additional information on which ones there are, we can double check with our POI data provider. Routing Issues This may be caused by a missing size restriction within the map data. If you could provide us with the details of the sample routes you tried, and where the trouble points are we'll certainly investigate what the issue is and try to correct. Maximum Dimensions Your use case for the RV app with a 45ft RV and 20ft car hauler is something we'd like to look at in more detail with our product management team so we'll keep you posted on that item. If you have further questions; please do not hesitate to let us know. Regards, CoPilot Consumer Support
  5. Bad Experience at IRV2

    Howdy from down the street, in Pecan Plantation! I too was censored on iRV2 for reporting violations to their own rules regarding illegal political discussions. Worse, if you even discuss administrative actions themselves, that is considered a violation. Whenever I'm tempted to participate more vigorously at iRV2, I only need look at my Profile section, where record of those partisan snipes are archived.
  6. Bad Experience at IRV2

    I'll never get over iRV2 sanctioning me for asking them to simply enforce their own rules. Worse, if you look at my account five years later, the nasty reminder of that episode is preserved. Worse, even mentioning iRV2 moderator rulings is, in itself, an infraction. FMCA is a vastly superior group, albeit smaller. I'll share a screenshot. Note that I am a Senior Member, with 928 postings. My lone blog entry: a link to FMCA
  7. Bearings On Steer Axle, Roadmaster Chassis

    Here we are again... Time flies when we're all having fun, eh? I'm sitting here on a Tokyo layover, getting my ducks in a row for a second repack. After posting this original thread, I took the rig to a Weatherford, Texas truck repair shop and basically paid two hours of shop time for them to get up to speed. Accurate records of what they did weren't kept; so, now I intend to do the homework ahead of time and possibly farm out the work to a local family-owned RV repair shop that is trying to get started in the business. In the interim, we've put nearly 20,000 miles on the RV. Two years have now passed, and I'm sensing the need for a repack albeit one to be done at my leisure. One caveat: other lubrication requirements for the Roadmaster chassis have not been overly conservative. Just the other day, I laid underneath and pumped endlessly to fill the drive shaft slip joint (I jammed a right-angle pick with a conspicuous yellow handle into the vent hole, a huge convenience) before fresh grease finally blossomed from the front seal. Similarly, the kingpin lube points seemed in need of grease; sobering, since I greased it six months and 5,000 miles before that. I did a friend's Essex and found that his slip joint was dry and caked to the point that we never got grease to push out of it, even after dumping an entire cartridge into the void. Word to the wise. Speaking of wisdom, at sixty, I'm convinced that I now have a choice between a battery-powered grease gun -- my Campbell Hausfield air gun has never worked -- and rotator cuff surgery! Lever-guns are for kids and maybe trophy wives with their own coveralls. Beaver owners might better describe themselves as orphans. Yes, our parents sadly persished in the proverbial shipwreck, and now our well-intentioned stepmother at REV Group is trying to get their affairs in order. Try as she may, it is not the same as having a rig whose original support network remains intact. When I called them about my bearing specs, they referred me to Dana Spicer, the axle manufacturer. At Dana, one knowledgeable tech guy revealed that the model, part and serial numbers of my axle identifies it as a beam sold to Beaver for installation on its Patriot line. One of three companies had then sold wheel-ends to Beaver for use on the beam, he added. Several hours of detective work later, I'd found Mr. Dallas Garrison at Webb, manufacturer of such hubs. Using pictures I supplied, he identified the hub as a 2574 model, and gave me numbers for the cups, cones and seals. Just so this precious information is safeguarded, and in case a fellow Patriot owner finds him or herself in a similar bind, here they are. Inner Cup HM212011 Inner Cone HM212049 Outer Cup 3720 Outer Cone 3782 Seal # Stemco 383-0136 I have the 500 lb torque wrench and dial indicator needed to do this in my own garage; am wondering if anyone else has done the task at home. Ideally, we have some heavy truck mechanics here that can weigh in on change interval, shop procedures, etc. All the earlier responses to this query are deeply appreciated. Without you all, I'd be lost and probably more than a little dangerous. Photo: If you're not wearing, tasting the grease, you're probably not doing it right. Right?
  8. Power Steering/Hydraulic Systems Analysis

    Hey, Brett Sorry it took so long. When I posted this, I turned to the mother-in-law and said you would definitely have the answer; and, that I wouldn't be surprised if the answer came within minutes. A technical glitch kept me from signing in, earlier. This bus came to us with zero manuals, so I downloaded a Dynasty manual for the next year, same chassis. It calls for ISO 46 hydraulic fluid. The filter specified for my mount/engine is the MS Filtri CSG100P10A with a 10 micron rating. The NAPA 1759 and WIX 51759 that cross-reference are also 10 micron filters; but, I notice that "None" is the listed "By-Pass Valve Setting-PSI: None." Additionally, if you trace the MS Filtri model to Fram, it cross-references back to a different NAPA number. Of course, I've used the NAPA and Wix variants in the past, with no ill effects. Still, considering what is at stake, I'll first order an MS Filtri replacement, plug it in, and see if the bypass pin extends. Meanwhile, I'll poll other Patriot Thunder Owners and see if they're directed to use Dex III or ISO 46. And, keep degreasing my repaired radiator. The oozing of hydraulic fluid that persists means nothing, for the first month, after I painted the entire engine and compartment with the stuff!!
  9. A question for our engineering types: after a night with temperatures in the teens two weeks ago, I started dripping hydraulic fluid. The culprit was identified by mechanics in Maryland as a cracked radiator core, the leak minor enough to continue home to Texas. In Tennessee, the rate of leakage had accelerated. As I poured the coals to the rig coming out of a KOA in Newport, a sudden brown geyser appeared in my mirror, the steering hardened. I eased onto the shoulder, continued another quarter-mile to a truck repair shop. Sure enough, the core had a inch-long crack along an aluminum weld. That evening, I put on a new filter, installed the repaired core, leak-checked it, pushed in the distended bypass indicator. We had normal ops for the next three hundred miles, day of driving. Then, in Arkansas, the unthinkable: an hour into our day, the steering hardened! I parked and dashed to the engine compartment. Oddly, the repaired radiator was dry as a bone. Rather, fluid was gushing from around the filter. Now, this isn't my first rodeo. I've replaced that filter several times, did it in accordance with instructions. It is one of those with a large gasket that has to be tucked up, inside the housing. But, I'd carefully traced my finger around the entire circumference, assured that it was postioned correctly, tightened to specs. Now, a quarter-inch loop of gasket protruded, alongside the filter. Damned. I wiped everything down, drove the toad to a nearby store and bought yet another batch of hydraulic fluid. Having reinserted the gasket, I snugged the filter extra tight, refilled the system, ran it and retightened. My installation had not been any different than many times before, but the gasket -- they tend to be a bit oversized -- popped out nonetheless. But, I'm concerned because the bypass indicator on the filter housing is extended, will not reset. Right now, we're ops-normal, but I'm not comfortable with this. Any thoughts?
  10. Reposted from iRV2 I thought I'd float this, in case it helps anyone. A few maintenance and operational items from this Texas - Maryland - South Carolina - Texas trip in freezing weather. Power Steering I've done two roadside repairs,* one to remove and replace a cracked hydraulic cooler core, the other to correct a filter "gasket hernia." At issue: higher pressures associated with cold weather ops. In both cases, the rig was warmed up for ten minutes before driving. Water Hose We forgot to retract the water hose after filling one night, and entire day in a heated compartment was not enough to thaw it. Worse, to save space (we were hauling freight), I'd hung the spare drinking water hose (to use for manually filling) in an unheated trailer, so it was a solid coil of ice. The solution was to completely extend the coach hose from its reel, coil it inside a bucket of hot water. Remember, those shutoff valves might not function, in extreme cold. I see lots of frozen lakes around various rigs. Batteries We've been involved with two different rigs whose owners inadvertantly ran down house batteries using a space heater driving down the highway. Running the generator enroute like we all do in the summer for air conditioning is the solution. Aqua Hot Remember that AH doesn't heat the coach unless the AH block heater is on, driving. Else, you have to run the diesel burner, too. At the campground, diesel and 110VAC functions can be run together. The added advantage of this technique: you don't have to remember to turn on the AH block heater for the overnight. Generator It might not start, due to cold. I'm going to invest in a block heater for the generator. Chassis Batteries A diesel mechanic buddy turned me on to Cabela's Pro Series battery tenders. I mounted one on the outside wall of my chassis battery bay, plugged it into the aft block heater receptacle. It optimizes those batteries nightly for that critical morning start under arctic conditions. Sewer Of course, leaving a sewer hose outside can be just as lethal as leaving a potable water hose out. Inchworm the hose to rid it of gray water, and stow before bed. To prevent slide-valve freezing, I pack a wet towel around the port through which the power line extends, eliminating the cold draft that enters my utilities compartment downstairs. Tires Removing a TPMS transmitter from a frozen valve stem for manual measurement will earn you a surprise: it will free flow. Tires should be inflated to manufacturer's load inflation table value -- don't use the placard by the driver's seat -- minus 1 PSI for each ten degrees under 65F. *If you dump power steering fluid, about ten seconds of normal steering is available, after which it gets progressively harder. In my rig, manually steering into a parking space (I was lucky enough to blow my core 1/4 mile from a truck repair shop) required more than 100 lbs of force on the wheel.
  11. I had an interesting experience yesterday, in Lipan, Texas.It is a town of 430 people, along FM 4 north of Granbury. I was traveling northbound in support of a veterans' event at Sweetwater.Approaching the town, I backed off at the 30 mph sign shown below, but not fast enough. As a result, an officer identifying himself as a police lieutenant for the town pulled me over and issued a $171 citation.So, if bridging the confluence of state highways that lead up from Hill Country into Granbury, and Interstate 20 to the north, either avoid FM 4 or use great caution traversing this route.Any other such places out there, lying in wait for unsuspecting motorists?
  12. Thanks! I'll drop 'em a msg.
  13. I'm in search of the 18" Aspen Lodge "Morning Breeze" tile found in mid-2000 Monacos, Beavers and Safari coaches. Does anyone have unwanted spares -- maybe you now have an upgraded floor -- or a source for the tile? It is made by Daltile, AL-60 18181P. There are online sources, but each shows that the item is no longer in stock.
  14. Lurking For Some Time - Now Ready To Buy

    I've driven about a dozen gassers and DPs, from Class C to Prevost. The wife, too. We agree that a sweet spot in value, utility, site access, ease of driving, fuel economy, depreciation, maintenance seems to happen at 40' in a basic diesel pusher with 350-400 hp.