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About augerdogger

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  1. I have a '01 Featherlite DS conversion. The shell is a 2000 Prevost H3-45 VIP. I wanted a coach with a 500hp DDEC III but settled for 500hp DDEC IV. The fuel economy and performance difference between III and IV is huge. I settled because we only drive 10-15,000 miles/year. Previous coach was a 500hp DDEC II that we drove 15-20,000 miles/year. AH uses both 0.35 and 0.40 gal/hr nozzles. I have used both and currently have a 0.35 installed. IMO I had more carbon buildup with the 0.40's.
  2. There are many variables in fuel economy. I have a 45' RV with a 500hp DD and my towed vehicle is Class B Sprinter. The RV is usually loaded to 53,000+ lbs and the Sprinter weighs in at 8,000 lbs. This spring I took a 3 wk, 5000 mi round trip to Rhode Island and fuel economy varied from 6 to over 12 mpg, overall fuel economy was 7.2 mpg. This includes fuel used by the Aquahot and the 62 hours of generator use. I got 12 mpg on the leg from Albuquerque to OK City with a 40-50 mph tail wind.and lost that gain on the trip home with a 40-50 mph head wind from OKC to ABQ. Going home from ABQ is 30 mi with a 2000' elevation change and fuel economy is ~ 4 mpg. Going North from ABQ to Denver includes 1 mountain pass and I get 7 mpg without the towed and 6.5 mpg with the towed. I drive based on the brake specific fuel consumption curve, BSFC, for this engine which is flat from 1200 to 1550 rpm and above 1550 rpm fuel consumption increases, 1500-1550 rpm corresponds to 65-68 mph. The transmission is an Allison B500 that I keep in economy mode unless I lose too much speed and start obstructing the flow of traffic. I budget a fixed amount for fuel expenses and when it is spent the RV is parked. I had a Newmar DP with a Cummins 300hp C-series that averaged almost 7.5 mpg for the 70,000 miles I owned it. The next RV averaged 6.2 mpg for the 180,000 miles I put on it. The current RV has 120,000 miles on it and I am getting 6.6 mpg because I usually have my toad. Food for thought is the RV has two alternators, one for the chassis and one for the house. The house alternator is 6.5 kW and engine fuel consumption at idle is 0.5 to 0.6 gallons per hour. The 17 kW generator is 17 kW and uses 0.8 gallons per hour. The RV has two 50 amp 120 legs or 12 kW total. Is it better to run the DD to power the alternator or the house generator?
  3. Are the slide operating mechanism's electric or hydraulic? Is there a locking mechanism? The slides in my previous Newmar coach were electric motors and I never had a problem. I have the same problems with the HWH hydraulic slides on my current RV. HWH thought it was a valve leaking that released the pressure allowing the slide to move. I bought a replacement valve and took the coach to a local RV dealer to have it installed and they said the valve doesn't fit. The slide creeps out when moving or stopped. I just watch it in the mirrors and stop when it needs to be retracted. Please post more info since many of us are not familiar with Thor slides.
  4. I seriously considered a Montana LLC before handing over $16,000+ dollars in sales tax. My decision was swayed by the fact that I would be driving an RV owned by a corporation (LLC) and technically would be required to have a CDL to operate. This means I cannot by-pass weigh stations and must keep a log of hours, penalties would be huge for not stopping. In addition, I show dogs and would have an added inconvenience of having to stop. A second option would be to establish residency in a state such as Texas or South Dakota. This has it's own hassles but are easier to stomach than a CDL. SD residency requires that you are resident in the state for one day/year., TX has similar requirements. Neither state has an income tax. Hassles if you own a brick and mortar in another state, as well as income tax owed in state of brick and mortar. Put you brick and mortar in a trust and rent from the trust is a work around.
  5. I recently purchased a used motorhome that was converted by an out of business company. The front TV is a motorized lift that pivots at the top. Pushing the rocker switch to lower/raise the TV results in whirring noises and no motion. I was told I need to release the latch to lower the TV. Any ideas on where the latch is? After I get the TV to raise and lower, the AMX controller needs to be programmed. Does anybody know how or where to take it to be programed.