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About RedLdr1

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  • Gender
  • Location
    North Georgia
  • Interests
    Touring and visiting classic planes, trains, and automobile museums.
  • I travel
    With Pets

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  1. Please send it to me for one of the 20 signatures....
  2. Proposed Change To FMCA's Governance

    I don't think it is all about making members aware of the issues and upcoming votes. As you said there was plenty of info, on numerous sources, on the last vote. But making it easier to vote should see an improvement in the "turn out" rate. And I suspect implementing e-voting would also be more cost effective for the FMCA as well....
  3. Proposed Change To FMCA's Governance

    I'm not too surprised. That is exactly why I suggested electronic voting. Members would receive an email with the proposal and an embedded link to vote. All they need to do is click on the link to respond and vote. No printing paper ballots, looking for envelopes, stamps, and all the "snail mail" issues. I suspect that e-voting would have seen a much better response rate, among the current membership, than the "snail mail" votes you mention. And those who wish to vote by "snail mail" could still do so with a paper ballot included in the magazine as it was in the last vote.
  4. Proposed Change To FMCA's Governance

    I disagree.. Why should I have to join a Chapter to have representation? I pay the same FMCA dues as anyone else here and I should be provided equal representation. A possible solution is a polling software application along the lines of Survey Monkey that could be used for this purpose. E-voting would provide all members an equal opportunity to vote on all issues. The FMCA isn't so big that e-voting wouldn't work with the technology that is readily available today. Maybe it is time to change the by-laws to allow for direct electronic voting? This will become a much bigger issue with the vote to allow all RV's. Those new members will expect equal representation and may not have a local Chapter that will accept them.
  5. Camping Without A Toad

    We downsized to a small, 25 foot, no slide out, Class C and dumped the TOAD...and don't miss it a bit. For most trips we do not need a TOAD as we can visit every where we want to go in our Class C. But then we are not "campers", we use our Class C to tour so we are generally moving on every day or two. When we are going to be in a single spot for several days, with a lot of local or nearby attractions, I just call Enterprise and they deliver a rental car. Having tried both I'm happy without a TOAD. The smaller Class C is pleasant to drive, handles well, is easy to park, and meets the 25 foot or less length requirements in some national parks. And I have yet to have a problem parking at a museum, driving in town, shopping etc...I'm sure there are some places I would but we haven't found one yet. And best yet my wife enjoys driving's nice to get a break from driving! If you research small Class C you'll find the number of smaller units with a decent TOAD tow rating is fairly small. Most, but not all, M-B Sprinter based C's will be rated for around 3,500 pounds max tow weight. Ford Transit based units like ours are rated at around 2,000 pounds so almost any car is out... Forest River makes some E450 based 25 foot C's, like the Sunseeker GTS 2430S, that could easily pull a big TOAD. I'm having a hitch added to our new C to allow for using our bike rack, our bicycles will work in a lot of places as well. And a trailer with a Polaris Slingshot just may be in my future. Try going TOAD less, the worst case scenario is you'll end up renting a car...
  6. USAA Insurance

    Been their, done that... We currently have USAA for our home and auto policies. USAA will not insure any motor homes but they will insure trailers. They also do not insure motorcycles, boats, or private aircraft, at least in Georgia. USAA customer service will transfer you over to their "partner" Progressive, who will probably be 25-30% higher than you can find at just about any other insurer. If you chose to use USAA, and do not use Progressive for the vehicles they do not cover, they will not sell you an umbrella policy. You'll be referred out to yet another third party insurer for that...who interestingly enough is cheaper than USAA for the exact same coverage! I really need to attend a share holder meeting in San Antonio... I use Allstate for our motor home as it is a much better deal than anything I was offered by either Good Sam or FMCA's partners in crime.
  7. Towing Lights

    My local installer wanted to use the RoadMaster 152-LED Bulb and Socket Kit. At about $100 for the kit, and the labor to install it, the TowMate wasn't that much more expensive.
  8. Towing Lights

    It isn't electrical wiring concerns that made me go with a TowMate light bar. Some of the newer vehicles have LED lights, like those on my Edge, that are sealed units to help keep moisture away from the LEDs. If you drill any holes in the light fixture you potentially allow moisture in to the light fixture. That could easily turn in to a warranty question if a light fixture fails. How likely is a LED light to fail? In the past three years I had the right rear turn signal assembly on our 2013 Ford Flex partially fail. Half of the LEDs stopped working. It was replaced under warranty and the repair invoice showed about $500 for the light assembly. We later traded in the Flex for our current Edge. The Edge had the left rear tail light assembly totally fail, at about 6 months, the warranty parts invoice on it was $650 for the light assembly. In both these cases I'm darn glad I didn't have any debating about holes drilled in the light fixture. We use the TowMate RVHW32 Wireless RV Tow Light Package. I avoid any warranty questions and I can easily move it between vehicles when we change TOAD's. It was well worth the roughly $250 cost to me to avoid any potential issues. And once you deduct the price of a traditional wiring kit, and installation costs, the TowMate looks even better.
  9. 2016 Ford Edge

    If everyone would do that we wouldn't have manufactures wanting to disconnect the toad battery.
  10. 2016 Ford Edge

    Yes, that would be my preferred solution... But when I asked about it everyone at Ford followed the Owners Manual "guidance". Since our Edge had less than 500 miles on it when all this was done I followed their directive. For the $200 for the battery disconnect installation it wasn't worth worrying about any warranty questions caused by not following Ford's directions. Another way to handle this is to put in a disconnect, as Ford recommends, and then use an aftermarket fused connection directly to the Edge battery to power the toad brake and lights. Then you wouldn't even need a charge line. Just remember to run your engine every evening to recharge the battery.
  11. 2016 Ford Edge

    I have a 2016 Edge and had my Ford dealer install a Blue Sea 500Amp cutoff switch on the negative terminal. On Page 234 of my Owners Manual, in the Towing Section, Step 4 for Keyless entry has you disconnecting the battery. Be very careful how you do this as there are three ground points off the negative battery cable. The one on the fender well stud, for jump starting, one on the engine, and one goes to the electronics. All in a single piece bundled wiring harness. This is not for the faint hearted to trace, I worked with my local Ford dealer for several hours figuring this one out! Now for the "gotcha"... If you disconnect the battery you obviously kill the factory power outlets you need for your brake system and in my case tail lights. To power the Blue Ox Patriot system and the TowMate 32" Wireless Brake and Tail lights we use I ran 12VDC from the coach 7 pin connector in to the Edge. I then connected that to two power outlets I installed under the dash that allow the Patriot and TowMate to plug in to them. My Edge has all LED lights in the rear. I wasn't willing to modify them as I know from a previous Ford just how expensive those LED light modules are... So that is why I went with the TowMate wifi system. The gotcha here is the whole rear of my Edge is either glass or plastic on the horizontal flat areas. I used an old hitch with a piece of 2X2 inch tube welded to it to mount my lights. The way my Edge is wired now the only mod to the factory wiring is the Blue Sea cutoff. Everything else is wired on easily removable two wire pre-made cables made to be used with a Deltran Battery Tender. If you want more details and the Part Numbers let me know... One other "gotcha": I highly advise you to have a couple regular keys made for the drivers door as the "key" in the fob is next to useless. FWIW: I could not get an official answer from Ford on why you need to disconnect the battery. Prior to 2016 it wasn't in the Owners Manual. What I was unofficially told is too many folks were killing their Edge's battery due to the toad's auxiliary braking system. If you leave the battery connected every time your toad brake system depresses the brake pedal it "wakes up" the vehicles electronics as it thinks you are getting ready to start the car by putting your foot on the brake. And the system stays active for several minutes each time. The cumulative effect is to kill the battery... Since I was modifying a brand new Edge I followed Ford's guidelines to the letter. I don't want any potential warranty claim issues. That is also why I had my Ford dealer modify the wiring harness instead of a third party. I freely admit this was overkill on my part... BTW the Edge tows great! Regards, Wayne
  12. Hello, My wife and I recently purchased our first motorhome a 2016 Forest River Sunseeker 2400W MBS. We chose the 2400W for its open floor plan and the M-B Sprinter chassis. It is normally just the two of us and the 2400W makes an ideal sized "couples coach" for us. Ordering it allowed us to customize it a bit and set it up the way we wanted. Prior to our "W" we owned several travel trailers ranging from small hybrids up to big slide out units. I just finally got tired of hooking and unhooking travel trailers! Last week we visited Acme Dolly Company and picked up a dolly for our Ford C-Max so I think I have most of the big bases covered now. We are interested in chapters in our general area and touring. We have plans to visit Glacier NP and Yellowstone NP next summer and then Alaska in 2017. Plus I'm always trying to learn more about our RV's and enjoy modding them to make them more comfortable for us. Regards,