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About fagnaml

  • Birthday September 4

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Katy, TX
  • Interests
    LSU football, golf, fishing, gardening, family outings with grown kids and grandkids, running, weight training, soccer officiating
  • I travel

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  1. Using RV Park Cable TV

    Tom -- Your response is what I love about the forum and the creative ideas shared! I've encountered several corroded male coax connectors on the docking post at RV parks / resorts in south Texas / south Louisiana. I just connected my cable to male connection and then cursed a bit when trying to disconnect. I hadn't thought about giving the cable connection on the docking post a quick wipe with WD-40 to make my life easier / improve signal quality.
  2. Using RV Park Cable TV

    e. --- First, welcome as a "poster" to the forum! I trust you are enjoying your motorhome! My 2007 motorhome has a male "cable input" connection located in the left rear power cord storage compartment (also has an old fashioned telephone land line input socket!). I use RV park cable service during all of my weekend adventures. For LSU football games, I connect my portable "Carryout" Winegard satellite dish to the "satellite in" male coax connector on the roof of my motorhome and crank-up the Winegard bat-wing antenna. In the entertainment center inside my motorhome I have a Winegard Entertainment Selector box that allows me to chose which signal (cable, satellite or antenna) goes to the main living area and bedroom televisions --> http://www.2040-parts.com/used-rv-motorhome-camper-winegard-entertain ment-select-box-pn-vs-050 I'd think your motorhome would have a similar "cable input" connection in your docking station area / power cord storage area and you would also have some type of "video source" selector box / controller in your entertainment center / command center. For the broad members of the forum, for my motorhome manufactured in 2007, Damon (Thor) had not fully migrated to "digital" technology of HD televisions, DVD/Blue Ray, etc. and didn't include more expensive "higher tech" controls (hence the video selector box). I still have the original 19" diagonal analog television that is "custom framed" into corner section of the bedroom cabinets. I've yet to decide how best to replace that heavy hunk of junk with a HD television AND make that modification look attractive. For now, I have a dead, heavy analog TV taking up valuable space. One good thing about a 2007 model is no DEF, particulate filter, etc. I guess simpler is better.
  3. Toad Oil Change

    Carl -- Not to divert from the topic too much, but have you explored the Hidden Falls Adventure Park near Marble Falls? It is a large, 3,000 acre "paid" park for Wranglers, ATVs, motorcycles, etc. My "OEM" equipped Sahara could handle ~2/3 of the trails in the park. The other 1/3 of the trails especially the blue "high risk of roll-over and injury or death" trails takes a Rubicon will all of the rock climbing toys added. Hidden Falls Adventure Park is a great place to enjoy some off-road time while also enjoying the Texas Wine Country.
  4. It's nice to see the forum having fun!. Rather than using my bathroom door (which is probably hung crooked ?) I like the "bubble level" my youngest son observed -- the water tank on my Keurig! I'll just "rotate" the Keurig to point from side to side then front to back on the kitchen counter. When my 58 year old, highly calibrated eye ball says the water level is "level enough", the motorhome will be level. I just need to make sure I'm wearing my contact lenses!
  5. Raibourn -- First, welcome to the forum! You will find forum members to be very helpful and supportive! I had a similar issue with my dash A/C in my 2007 Damon Astoria (which also was manufactured by Thor). A engine idle speed, the air from the dash A/C was quite cool. However when driving the air from the dash A/C became quite warm. A very astute, young mechanic at RV Masters in Houston diagnosed the problem as a partially to mostly plugged low pressure refrigerant return line from the dash to the A/C compressor on the engine. As Brett described, as engine RPM increased and the A/C compressor speed / refrigerant flow increased the plugged low pressure return line could not handle the increased flow. The bright, young mechanic replaced the lower pressure return hose and solved my dash A/C problem. By the way, the new Thor Aria is an updated version the Damon Astoria. The floor plans of the Aria and Astoria are nearly identical and terrific! My wife and I have had much enjoyment from our Astoria with no major problems. I'm sure you'll have many great adventures during the coming years with your Aria! Congrats!
  6. Toad Oil Change

    This topic brings up other routine maintenance questions I have pondered for my Jeep Wrangler "toad". I concur with Brett that my Wrangler's engine oil / filter change frequency (5,000 miles for me) is determined by the miles I drive the Jeep (my presumption is the odometer doesn't count miles when the engine is "off"). However there are other mileage related routine maintenance items associated with Jeep that I've been pondering: 1) Tire mileage, routine rotation & balancing, etc. --> the tire mileage I think should include the time and miles while I'm towing my Jeep AND the miles I drive the Jeep. I rotate/balance tires every 5,000 miles (+/-). Since my weekend outings for now are rather infrequent (except for LSU football season) I keep a "mental total" (not written log) of tire mileage while the Jeep is towed in between tire rotations. The total driven + towed mileage will eventually dictate when the tires need replacing. 2) Differentials (axles) oil checking / replacing. The Jeep's owner's manual says check the differential oil every 20,000 miles and replace at 120,000 miles (which I'm a long way from). I just realized that I have not added "towed mileage" to the odometer reading and when to check the differential oil. 3) Automatic transmission and transfer case oil checking / replacing will follow the driven miles (i.e. odometer reading). Am I taking the proper "mileage" approach with regards to tires and drive train maintenance?
  7. Wayne - Thanks for the response. I'm still not used to all the "fancy stuff" on a motorhome. For the 30 foot travel trailer I had before my motorhome, the only "auto" part of leveling the trailer was a battery powered drill with socket to use on the scissor jacks! With my motorhome, I seem to be continually in the phase of "I don't know what I don't know"!! Back to my original question about the "zero level calibration" effort, I presume I can accomplish that task at my motorhome storage facility that has a well packed gravel surface -- correct?
  8. Since purchasing my motorhome two years ago, I had presumed the "auto leveling" function of my LCI Electronic Leveling Controller worked "OK" and never checked if my motorhome was actually level. This past weekend at the LSU-Texas A&M game, my youngest son asked why the water level in the Keurig tank wasn't level (dumb me had never noticed). So, I pulled my 6" long carpenter level out of my tool box and sure enough, the motorhome is a "half bubble off" sloping to the driver's side after being "automatically" leveled. A quick Google search this morning of the LCI Level Controller owner's manual has a page long process for setting the "Zero Level Point Calibration" that needs to be completed to assure the automatic level function works properly --> https://www.lci1.com/assets/content/support/manuals/Leveling and Stabilization/Electronic_Hydraulic_Leveling_and_Slideout_Owner_s_Manual1.pdf Am I the only one that blindly presumed the automatic leveling function work perform properly? For those that have the LCI Electronic Leveling Controller, have you "gone through" the manual leveling / Zero Level Point Calibration exercise? I presume that effort doesn't take much time (?). Thanks for the help and advice! I failed the Motorhome 101 class pop-quiz on LCI level controllers.....
  9. An FYI for forum members living in the greater Houston, Beaumont, Lake Charles, etc. areas. I had to replace the "4 in 1" gage (oil pressure, coolant temp, primary and secondary air pressures) due to a significant air leak from somewhere inside the gage (horrible loud hissing sound and blowing air!). My experience with trying to get a new replacement gage from Houston Freightliner was extremely poor. Their parts department almost "never" answered a phone call. The couple of times they finally answered the phone I was placed on hold for 10- 15 minutes each time. First "parts guy" said the gage I had was out of production and could not be replaced. The second "parts guy" on a different phone call said the same thing until I asked if he could search for a replacement gage using my VIN number which revealed the original part number had been superseded by an new part number. Then came the sticker shock -- $675 for the new gage not including taxes and shipping. My younger son in Lake Charles, LA suggested that I call Martin Truck Center in Lake Charles. They were very responsive and professional and quickly found a new replacement gage. The Martin Truck Center "parts guy" asked me for my VIN. The good news was the cost of the gage including taxes and shipping was $475 !! I had the new gage within three days of placing the order. If you need a Freightliner part, I highly suggest working with Martin Truck Center in Lake Charles, LA and don't waste time with Houston Freightliner. I'd venture to guess Martin Truck Center could provide Freightliner parts to a customer anywhere in the USA.
  10. Towing A 2017 Pacifica

    Colthoff -- The Chrysler Pacifica is the "new name / design" mini-van that replaced the Town & Country mini-van this year. The Pacifica is a front-wheel drive vehicle that I presume would need a dolly to tow (??). I'm sure forum members who tow front wheel drive vehicle will provide great suggestions on how best to tow a Pacifica. One of the first things to check is the curb weight of the Pacifica and determine if that weight is within the tow rating of your motorhome. For example, my motorhome has a max tow rating of 5,000 lbs. which being quite low didn't leave me a lot of choices for a "toad". Hence why I have a Jeep Wrangler that has a curb weight of ~4,000 lbs. Fortunately I love Jeep Wranglers!! Hope this helps!
  11. San Antonio & Fort Worth

    Tommy -- A couple suggestions from my and my wife's weekend adventures to the San Antonio area are: 1) Alsatian RV Resort in Castroville, TX which is ~25 miles from the River Walk in San Antonio --> http://www.alsatianresort.com/ In addition to big, wide spots, the Alsatian RV Resort has an on-stie restaurant, bar, big swimming pool, golf course, etc. The city of Castroville has some unique historic sites and dining options. And it's very convenient to San Anonio. 2) Admiralty RV Resort on the northwest side of San Antonio --> https://www.admiraltyrvresort.com/ Admiralty is a great choice if Sea World and Six Flags Over Texas parks are on your list of things to do in San Antonio in addition to the Rive Walk. For the Fort Worth area, my wife and I stayed at the North Texas Jellystone RV Park ( https://www.northtexasjellystone.com/) a few years ago when LSU played Oregon in the Cowboys Classic start to the college football season. North Texas Jellystone RV Park is south of Fort Worth on I-35W and ~25 miles from the AT&T Cowboys Stadium / Texas Rangers Stadium. The rates for these three RV resorts is $55/night which for my wife and I for a four day weekend outing is plenty OK especially considering a hotel room on the San Antonio River Walk cost $200+ per night ! Dallas hotels during the Cowboys Classic weekend also charge $200 per night. Hope this helps!
  12. Should FMCA Allow Towable RVs-- Vote NOW

    rpelatt -- I concur with your observation as I'm in the mid-late 50's age group that still have busy careers and can't take 10-14 days of vacation in one chunk to attend an International Rally. I'm also of the age that activities for a local Chapter rally do not align with my or my wife's interests (quilting, pickle ball, puzzles are not on the radar screen yet). My wife and I with our busy careers are "four day weekend" adventurers to someplace that is a 6 hour drive away. My Texas plates are usually in a Texas RV park. When we retire in 5-7 years, then we'll have the time for two week (or more) adventures. If the main reason for FMCA needing to include non-motorhome RV owners is "financial" to continue to provide the medical assist benefit to all FMCA members then an obvious answer is to stop providing that benefit to everyone and allow those who want the benefit to purchase it on their own. From my vantage point, it appears that FMCA financially may be facing the same issues at ObamaCare -- not enough younger members paying fees to FMCA to properly fund the medical assist benefit for older / other members who need that service. The only option for more revenue per FMCA leadership is to allow non-motorhome owners to join FMCA to collect additional "fees" income. I wish I knew if FMCA leadership has evaluated offering the medical assist benefit on a stand alone basis for a member to purchase or not (i.e. the same approach as currently used for the FMCA roadside assistance benefit).
  13. Today I received an unsolicited e-mail in my Gmail account to join the new All Inclusive Motorhome Club (AIM). The link to this club's website says they are a new organization exclusively for motorhome owners --> https://www.aimclub.org/ Has anyone heard of / joined AIM? Is this organization forming as a result of the churn within FMCA?
  14. My motorhome has two, five year old "engine starting" Interstate 31-MHD batteries (950 CCA, 195 minute reserve charge) that are showing signs of being bad. Replacement Interstate batteries cost $150 each (plus taxes). The Batteries + Bulbs store near my home sells Duracell SLI31SA batteries with the same 950 CCA but somewhat lower 175 minute reserve charge. The Duracell battery only cost $95 each (plus sales taxes). Both the Interstate and Duracell batteries are fully sealed. The cost for two Duracell batteries is $120 LESS than two Interstate batteries which is very enticing. Does the forum have any experience with heavy duty, engine starting Duracell batteries? If "yes", was that experience good or bad? Thanks for your thoughts!
  15. Extended Warranty Recommendations

    I have a three year XtraRide Platinum extended warranty plan. Thus far I've used XtraRide for dash A/C repairs (twice), replace worn track bars, replace bushings in sway bars, replace a slide out controller and replace a propane detector. Each time I only had to pay the $100 deductible. These repairs have me about 3/4 of the way to breaking even with the cost of the extended warranty plan. XtraRide thus far has provided great service to me.