raptor4070

Water Heater Check Valve

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Hello! My hot water trickles out then stops. I've checked and read what the problem could be and I suspect a faulty check valve. The problem that I am having is that, the brass fittings are stuck and I cannot loosen them. Does anyone have any ideas on how to loosen them?

Thanks any ideas are appreciated!

 

20170628_202821.jpg

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4070,

The Tee looks to be plastic and the water line is PEC. My first thought would be to cut the PEC which would allow you to twist off the Tee. You would then be able to replace the valve and reverse the process. You would need the tool to crimp the PEC rimgs.

Herman

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The valve pictured does not look like a check valve, looks more like an on off valve with the handle removed. As Herman pointed out, you could cut the PEX line, a pair of pruning shears works well for this or if you have a pvc cutter, is a little better. Those type of fittings are pretty inexpensive and would be my recommend to replace them. I can't understand the uncapped tee, what is supposed to go there? If that is the pop off safety valve and you have removed the release tab, my apologies, but same applies, a pop off valve is supposed to screw straight into the tank and pipe attached to carry the steam to the outside. Now for PEX plumbing, there are alternatives to using the compression rings for making new connections, most stores that sell PEX plumbing supplies have fittings that will just press on, some called SharkBite, some are called GatorBite, and several other names, very easy to work with and requires no clamps or the tool to use to compress those rings. Please take your picture to a plumbing store and have them verify what type valve that is, and get their advice on how to make the repair.

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9 hours ago, raptor4070 said:

Hello! My hot water trickles out then stops. I've checked and read what the problem could be and I suspect a faulty check valve. The problem that I am having is that, the brass fittings are stuck and I cannot loosen them. Does anyone have any ideas on how to loosen them?

Thanks any ideas are appreciated!

 

20170628_202821.jpg

That valve is/looks like part of the bypass/winterising set up. You are never going to turn the flats you have rounded off on the left side of the valve as they are part of the valve. The "wrenching flats" are there so you can hold the valve while tightening the fitting you are screwing into the valve.

I would start with the fitting coming out of the tank to the plastic T there is no way that can be frozen especially as it is a plastic fitting and I can see pipe tape sticking out of the joint. Then to remove the valve I would unscrew the fitting on the right side. Use 2 wrenches one to hold the line and one to turn the valve.

Bill

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 I removed the bypass valve handle to get to the remainder of the setup.  The plastic is not a problem those are easy enough, however brass check valve connected to the tank and the tee is the issue. That's what I cannot remove

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ObedB   

You must have a pressure relief valve up top somewhere? The pic you have does not look like anything that I have seen on the back of a water heater. Must be a different brand that I have never come across. I see Teflon tape on the threads. Should come apart with a little muscle.

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3 hours ago, raptor4070 said:

 I removed the bypass valve handle to get to the remainder of the setup.  The plastic is not a problem those are easy enough, however brass check valve connected to the tank and the tee is the issue. That's what I cannot remove

The fitting coming out of the water heater is/looks like a AN flared fitting. You need a adult size wrench that fits and it should break loose.

Bill 

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ObedB   

That is not a pressure relief that I know of. Have replaced a number of them over the years. We have two water heaters in our house of 41 years plus new water heaters at least two heaters down and one up. Plus replacement valves on both class A's. To my surprise, there is an adjustable relief valve but only one end is threaded. Something else is going on here. Former owner doing something not right?

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wolfe10   

Agree, no question, this is NOT a pressure relief valve.  The are on the OUTSIDE of the water heater.  Drop the outside access door and you will see the pressure relief valve.

OP's issue is on the back/inside of the water heater.

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There is no checkvalve in the posted picture, the only valve shown is an off/on valve. The tee that it is attached to is nothing more than a plastic tee screwed into what looks like, as posted above, a flare type fitting. the only possibility of a check valve in the photo is at the bottom of the red PEX line turned back towards the water heater. A checkvalve has no handle attached, as the only thing a checkvalve does is it makes the liquid flow in only one direction. Most of them looks like just another piece of pipe that is a little larger than the pipe that is setting the flow direction in. Most of them will have an arrow pointing the direction of flow, or an IN on one end and/or an OUT on the other end.  The pop off valve should always be on top of the tank with a lift tab on top or side of it. The pop off valve is the most common valve that will give a problem with age as the spring/heat sensor usually gets weak, and only remedy is replacement. If you can take a picture of where the water trickles from, or a good description, can help us give better advice.

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ObedB   

You might be able to solve your problem by finding a screw on cap with a built in rubber lining. Looks like 3/4 NPT to me but the appearence is similar to female water hose fitting. Use the wrong cap and you will still have a leak. Home Depot has a really good mix of caps and fittings of various sizes, at least our's does. Find an end cap in 3/4 NPT and one in water hose size. The difference in size is subtle to the human eye, but use the wrong one and the leak will continue. That on my view is the quickest and easiest way to stop the drip. Anyway looks like 3/4 to me but I am only guessing.

 

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I copied and pasted the photo into another file so that I could zoom in and enlarge the photo. I am now able to see droplets of water on the plastic tee and dripping down onto the electric box below. The fitting that the plastic tee is screwed into could possibly  be a screw in type checkvalve. If this is the case, you will need to cut the RED PEX pipe that is to the right and goes downward.  With this  done, you can now unscrew the valve that is to the right of the tee, from the tee. This now gives access so you can unscrew the tee, and lastly the checkvalve from the water heater. When you are able to look inside behind the tee into the fitting, if this is a checkvalve, you will not be able see through that fitting. To put the PEX back together, simply purchase a coupler for the correct size PEX.       Hope this helps!

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You can take it apart the way I described and not have to cut anything. Whatever you do you still have to remove the fitting coming out of the water heater. I don't see where cutting the pex gains you anything except more work.:P

Bill

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