53rambler

Patriot II System Power Source

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I have a Patriot II braking system and would like to have a separate power source since I have to disconnect the battery while towing. I don’t want to have to run another wire through the car. Any suggestions on a power source?

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I have run my Patriot system off a portable battery / charger unit for years - just there is never any drain on the towed battery... sits and rides in area for passenger's feet. simply charge the unit back up when parked for the night... always availble to use to help others start their toweds when necessary. I do have the extra tailights run from directly from the motorhome connection, and I have the small battery charging line from the motor home connection to the towed battery but have just always preferred to keep the towed's electrical system completely un-disturbed..

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Thanks! We too have our lights wired directly from the motor home connection. 

When I look for battery jumpers with 12 volt power output (cigarette lighter female attachment) I find 12 volt 10 amps. The patriot system says it requires 12 volt plugin 2 amp max.

Does this mean I can’t use the 12 volt 10 amp unit?

what type of jumper do you use?

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Maybe I'm missing something, I actually believe WhiteEagle is referring to a portable battery/jumper. I have a couple of them and I plug them in to 120 volt outlet while parked to recharge the unit then plug the braking system into that unit while towing the toad, this is just using the jumper instead of the toad battery. If this is not correct, W-E please correct me.

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manholt   

Kay.  Me thinks there is confusion on OP's part.  I read it the same as you!  Had to do that on a 2009 Jeep Wrangler!

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Sorry for the confusion. I was concerned that using a 10 amp power source on a system that stated “2 amp max” might cause a problem. As the unit is very expensive, I don’t want to take any chances of messing it up. I talked to tech support at Blue Ox and they said it requires a minimum of 2 amps. Must be an error in their literature.

 Thanks for your input. I feel better knowing that others have been using a separate power source with no problems.

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wolfe10   

Safest way to wire a "separate power source":

Direct from chassis battery or large-gauge connection to it with inline fuse as close to "source" as possible.  Minimum 8 gauge wire to connector at back of coach, 8 gauge wire to toad battery with inline fuse at toad battery.  Best to up-size ground wire from coach to connection and toad to connection to 8 gauge.  Wired this way, it will charge toad battery anytime the toad is plugged into coach.

If you only want it to charge with the coach ignition on, use a relay at coach end with an ignition-hot as the trigger.  Plenty of those in the engine room.

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4 hours ago, 53rambler said:

 

Sorry for the confusion. I was concerned that using a 10 amp power source on a system that stated “2 amp max” might cause a problem. As the unit is very expensive, I don’t want to take any chances of messing it up. I talked to tech support at Blue Ox and they said it requires a minimum of 2 amps. Must be an error in their literature.

 

In this instance, the brake specifies 2 amp max, means that the brake system uses a maximum of two amps, so if you want to plug into a 10 or any amp for that matter, that is above 2 amps, you will good to go. The brake system will have it's own fusing system to protect itself from harm. Just like plugging in an appliance at home, most outlets at home are 15 to 20 amps, and you plug your computer, max 2.5 amps, the computer is ok because it is internally protected. Brett is correct that the charge line from coach to toad is always best of all worlds, you can then use a hot toad outlet to run the braking system, most cars of later models have several of these in various locations, including most suv's have one near the rear hatch for convience, just make sure that the outlet is hot if the ignition is off, if not, provisions will need to be made to remedy this. For a little more clarification, the fuse at the power source distribution box/panel, is designed to protect against overheating the wiring to the point of entry of your appliance, this in turn is your protection against the wire getting too hot and causing a fire.

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manholt   

53rambler.  Happy Holidays.  You now can go anywhere....I always have a soft spot, for Christmas lights in a Palm Tree! :lol:

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