manholt

Fresh Tank Fills When On City Water

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manholt   

Yesterday, my fresh water tank all off a sudden filled to overflowing while on city water!  That manual system has not worked since I got the coach, so I have filled thru the outside manually with a separate hose.

I shut of the city water, flipped my handle for the ball valve and am now on my water pump and fresh tank.  Also, the water pump is not holding pressure, so I'm turning it on as needed...get tired of hearing it every couple of minutes.

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First thing I would check Carl is the supplied campground water pressure.  This has happened to us when pressure are about 60 psi or greater.  Our Atwood fill/supply valve leaks by and overflows the water tank.  I put a regulator on it and haven't had a problem since.  I set my regulator at 45 psi.

If your water pump is cycling without using water in the coach you may have a bad check valve.

Cant understand why your tank fill option hasn't worked since you've had the coach.  What type of valve do you have?  Can you post a picture?

Blake

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Carl,

What you have is a bad check valve in your pump. They are notorious for failing. Especially when subjected to high pressures.  

You can put an end to the problem by installing a inline check valve. I had my pump check valve fail on several occasions until I installed an inline check valve.

One of the main reason they recommend the pressure reducer on your hose is to protect the pump check valve .

As for the pump cycling off and on is due to the check valve seeping back into the tank.  If on shore water it can cause the tank to fill and overflow. If not on shore water and only on the pump the pump will cycle off and on since the pump can't hold the preset limit switch. If you have shutoff valve between the pump and the tank, you can close it when on shore power and prevent the tank from filling.

I got my inline check valve at Lowe's along with a ball valve and all the needed hoses and clamps.

Herman  

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wolfe10   

Yup, two most probable causes are a failed tank fill valve (usually a ball valve) OR the potable water check valve.

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manholt   

Thanks.  We will be home later today, not a planed thing.  One of Linda's rent house's got totally water logged from busted frozen pipes, happened a week ago, we found out yesterday...good thing we did not go to So. FL.

I'll take a trip to Low's this PM.  Will let you know!

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manholt   

It's rented to a woman, for 3 years, everything was fine, then she got a boyfriend & pregnant, kid born 5 days ago...they left the house with no heat on and didn't shut off water!  Now he want's to live there while it's being fixed....it's liable to be a long month!

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Carl,

Is he capable of doing any of the work and if so do you trust him to do a good job? :huh:  If not and you need them to vacate until the work is done, does that constitute breaking the lease. If so then Linda doesn't need to return her deposit.

Then again we are talking about a small Hill Country Town where we all know things are done a bit different. :mellow:

Good luck to Linda and keep your rubber boots on.

Herman 

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manholt   

He is an undocumented "Wet Back", If he won't leave on his own accord , Linda has a cousin in ICE.  Insurance company is taking care of everything and Linda has her own Contractor!  With 10 houses and a commercial property (Liquor store), you got to know the right people and be covered.  Thanks, for your thoughts and concern.

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pmarth   

I've got the same issue.  Can someone post a picture of inline check valve and where it should be installed?

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manholt   

Blake.

When you say "downstream", is that between the Fresh tank or pump to house?  The only time my pump is involved is on the in coach water system.  City water goes to Filter, then house.  I have a brass ball valve that I put in 2 years ago, replacing the plastic pos.  All flex lines.

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No screen inside of an inline checkvalve. The sediment screen should be placed just before the pump. The OP may want to check this screen for his situation, it is a very likely place for problems for the pump failure, could have frozen and cracked, or just partially stopped up, the bowl may not be secure, allowing for air to leak, with air leak, no way for the pump to prime. Sorry, I am referring to the wrong post for the last part of this post.

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Had the same issue with my coach. Fresh water tank filling on shore water. I installed a check valve downstream of the pump but now the pump wont come on at all. I saw a thread in here about having to prime the pump but don't remember where it was. It got dark so I went back on shore water. Tomorrow I will get out and check the fuses and so on. When putting the check valve in I'm sure I got air in the lines. Does the pump need primed and if so, what are the steps? Thanks Guys.

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Make sure that the arrow on the checkvalve is pointed away from the pump in the downstream position, if put in reversed, the pump cannot cycle on, because of the pressure against the valve. This type pump is a diaphragm style which means that it will pump air as well as water. If any air is in the system, it will actually pump the air out. This is why it is critical to not have an air leak between the fresh water tank and the pump, so that it does not pump air instead of water, causing the pump to not shut off, or cycle very often. You can test the checkvalve to make sure that it is working correctly by blowing into the checkvalve. If you blow into the end that the arrow is pointed to, no air should pass. If you blow into the end that the arrow is pointed away from, the air flow should be unrestricted. If the valve doesn't work as stated above on both tests, the valve is defective. Make sure that you have 12 volts present to the pump also, just an added thought, someone may have turned the pump off or a fuse could be blown if 12 v is not present.

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11 minutes ago, kaypsmith said:

Make sure that the arrow on the checkvalve is pointed away from the pump in the downstream position, if put in reversed, the pump cannot cycle on, because of the pressure against the valve. This type pump is a diaphragm style which means that it will pump air as well as water. If any air is in the system, it will actually pump the air out. This is why it is critical to not have an air leak between the fresh water tank and the pump, so that it does not pump air instead of water, causing the pump to not shut off, or cycle very often. You can test the checkvalve to make sure that it is working correctly by blowing into the checkvalve. If you blow into the end that the arrow is pointed to, no air should pass. If you blow into the end that the arrow is pointed away from, the air flow should be unrestricted. If the valve doesn't work as stated above on both tests, the valve is defective. Make sure that you have 12 volts present to the pump also, just an added thought, someone may have turned the pump off or a fuse could be blown if 12 v is not present.

Yeh, I made sure about the arrow. Thinking back, it did come on after installing the check valve but I may have bumped the hot wire on the switch to the frame and could be a popped fuse. I'll be fresh at it in the morning. Thanks

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OK, the fuses are good, power is where it's supposed to be, arrow is pointed away from the pump,  it's all good. I had one of the valves in bypass instead of normal use so when I installed the check valve and turned the pump on, it did pump and pressure up and turn off. Wasn't until I went in to wash for supper, I noticed no water coming out the spigot. Well, there was enough to wet my hands and soap up and then it died. Tried a few things and couldn't get the pump to come on or get any water. Troubleshot today and found the problem. Put the 3 valves in normal use and away we go. Diagnosis: Loose nut behind the wheel.  Thanks guys

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