Sib715

TPMS Techno RV Install

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Sib715   

Just purchased my Coach House B+and bought the tire pressure monitors at Tampa show. I have 16" Michelin tires and aluminum rims, can't screw on the sensors on 4 of my 6 tires and none of the inner duals, suggestions please. I removed the safety caps.

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abyrd   

Is the problem caused by limited space or because the threads are not compatible?  Either way the problem can be corrected by changing the valve stems.

Jim

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abyrd   

If not having enough space is your problem you my want to consider changing you valve stems or adding an extension on existing ones.  Valve stems are available in many lengths and shapes.  I would prefer changing the stems over installing the extensions.  The extensions are more prone to failure.

Jim

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Sib715   

Thanks for the responses, it's  accessibility and not enough space. I was able to get one on front and one on rest. I have dual valves but inner tire faces inward. Hoping at Lakeland Fl RALLY this week will find some help🙄

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wolfe10   

If the valve stem on the rear dual inner faces in, should not be a problem to screw on the TPMS sensor.  Just need to move vehicle to that the valve stem faces toward the back so you can access it.

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Sib,

Look into Dually Valve Kits and give them a call.  They are great to work with and they may even have a dealer in your area.

For us Metropolitan Houston area RV'ers, La Porte Tire Center, La Porte, TX is a Dually Valve Dealer.

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tireman9   

I have been running steel braded extender hoses for 12 years with no problems. Just be sure the outer end is securely fastened down.

Picture on THIS post on hoses happened to be taken with TPM sensors off

You might review my blog on TPMS topic as I have posts on how I suggest people set the warning levels.

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"Picture on THIS post on hoses happened to be taken with TPM sensors off" If you are talking about the picture with the Chevy emblem, The valve stem on the right is going to fail. You can see that it is rubbing the rim where it comes through the hole. Over time it will abrade a hole in the braided material and cause  leak. It needs to be re positioned and some rail road grommet material installed. This is exactly why people have problems with these type of extensions. 

Bill

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My second and third coaches came with Braided Hoses and were secured to brackets on the center hub cover. If there ever was a leak it was a really slow one.

Herman

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57 minutes ago, hermanmullins said:

My second and third coaches came with Braided Hoses and were secured to brackets on the center hub cover. If there ever was a leak it was a really slow one.

Herman

I think if installed right they work. The one I was referring to in the picture is not installed properly. 

Bill

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8 hours ago, WILDEBILL308 said:

I think if installed right they work. The one I was referring to in the picture is not installed properly. 

Bill

The extension on the left appears to be held in place by a holder that is screwed into the plastic hub; I don't think many of us want to be drilling in to our aluminum wheels, at least I sure don't. A simple Google search on braided valve extension reviews indicates less than satisfactory results compared to solid extensions. Maybe by not using TPMS on the braided extension, as pictured, that would help with vibration, etc, but then you're giving up a very important safety item just to make it easier to check the air in your tires. Since I'm not going to drill and tap a hole in my aluminum wheels, I think I'll stick with my solid extensions. 

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jleamont   

I had nothing but problems with the braided hoses on the last motorhome. What most tend to forget is while the wheel is moving the hoses will whip put against the wheel or wheel simulator. The smaller the wheel and tire combination the more revolutions the more likely you will have a problem. Mine were centered in the opening but while driving the G-force would pull them into the wheel simulator at the opening, on a wheel simulator the holes are smaller and razor sharp, guess what happened, not once, not twice but three separate times?

Tireman's photo is nice, that GM chassis has nice sized hand holes, the ford are finger holes.

I put solid extensions on it and never looked back, never fussed with it again. This coach came from the factory with braided inner extensions, the dealer pulled them off when they were going over it. Shop foreman told me both inner tires when traded in were "run flats" :(

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tireman9   
On 2/3/2018 at 7:37 PM, abyrd said:

Is the problem caused by limited space or because the threads are not compatible?  Either way the problem can be corrected by changing the valve stems.

Jim

Valve stem threads are universal worldwide for pass, LT and truck at  0.305-32 thread or in metric  7.7x0.794

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tireman9   
On 2/12/2018 at 9:24 AM, jleamont said:

I had nothing but problems with the braided hoses on the last motorhome. What most tend to forget is while the wheel is moving the hoses will whip put against the wheel or wheel simulator. The smaller the wheel and tire combination the more revolutions the more likely you will have a problem. Mine were centered in the opening but while driving the G-force would pull them into the wheel simulator at the opening, on a wheel simulator the holes are smaller and razor sharp, guess what happened, not once, not twice but three separate times?

Tireman's photo is nice, that GM chassis has nice sized hand holes, the ford are finger holes.

I put solid extensions on it and never looked back, never fussed with it again. This coach came from the factory with braided inner extensions, the dealer pulled them off when they were going over it. Shop foreman told me both inner tires when traded in were "run flats" :(

I think the key thing many fail to do with steel braided hose extenders is to firmly bolt down the outer end. Yes my hand holes (GM) are larger than some others but I get zero movement of the hose even when I push on it by hand. I do not like the rubber "donut" things as they do not hold the hose and that rubber can age and get stiff. I have even seen an example of a brass metal extension being worn through due to movement.

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fagnaml   

I had the same "short stem / tight access" on the front wheels of my motorhome.  The stems barely reach the small opening in stainless steel front wheel covers that made it tough to get a pressure gage on the stem.  There certainly wasn't room under the wheel cover to attach my Tire Minder TPMS caps.  My short term solution until its time for new tires 3-4 years from now is a 45-degree valve extension that I purchased from my local Camping World (see image below).  The angled valve extender fits nicely through the valve stem opening in the wheel covers.   The valve extenders made life much simpler when checking front tire pressures and for supporting the TPMS transmitters.  I've had no problems with the valve extenders the last two years that they have been in place.

 

 

Valve Extender.PNG

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On 2/16/2018 at 10:03 AM, tireman9 said:

I think the key thing many fail to do with steel braided hose extenders is to firmly bolt down the outer end. Yes my hand holes (GM) are larger than some others but I get zero movement of the hose even when I push on it by hand. I do not like the rubber "donut" things as they do not hold the hose and that rubber can age and get stiff. I have even seen an example of a brass metal extension being worn through due to movement.

I'm curious as to how you would suggest one "firmly bolt down the outer the end" on an aluminum wheel or a wheel simulator? For me, drilling and tapping into my aluminum wheel Is not an option.

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jleamont   
11 minutes ago, elkhartjim said:

I'm curious as to how you would suggest one "firmly bolt down the outer the end" on an aluminum wheel or a wheel simulator? For me, drilling and tapping into my aluminum wheel Is not an option.

Jim, I believe he is referring to these tabs to hold them securely.

I have called these many names none of which were nice and I have scars and damage wash mitts to prove it  :angry:

IMG_4305.JPG

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jleamont   

It would be easier to avoid them if there were braided hoses connected to them, without the hoses you forget about them until you're washing them. If you noticed they are now in the garage, because of these tabs I had to replace them. The dealer removed the hoses prior to us purchasing the coach but the tabs remained, their response "I just saved you two flat inner tires, you're welcome!" :wacko::lol:

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There isn't anyway I could use tabs on my all aluminum wheels. I never had anything but bad luck using the hoses on my old motorhome. When I replaced the tires on my last motorhome, the tire dealer told me I should throw the hoses away which I had already planned on doing. The solid metal extensions have always worked without any problems. 

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tireman9   
On 2/19/2018 at 7:36 AM, elkhartjim said:

There isn't anyway I could use tabs on my all aluminum wheels. I never had anything but bad luck using the hoses on my old motorhome. When I replaced the tires on my last motorhome, the tire dealer told me I should throw the hoses away which I had already planned on doing. The solid metal extensions have always worked without any problems. 

I have seen one brand of hoses that come with brackets that are bolted down with 2 of the lug nuts. If you have aluminum wheels don't you have a center hub cover? This would be a little like my older chevy hub covers seen in the link from my Feb 11 post.  RE my install being wrong and hoses going to fail.  Sorry, but I put about 40k miles on the plastic hub cover set-up with no visible wear on the hoses.  I only have another 10k miles on my 2016 RV that has SS wheel simulators as seen in this picture. Two hoses show contact but no abrasion as the outer ends are firmly attached. Since they are 8 years old it is time to replace them as the internal rubber has "aged out".

Hoses are off right now as I am installing an internal TPM system that I am evaluating. Will have a report on Internal vs external TPMS at Perry.

SS hose extender.jpg

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