31 posts in this topic

The first two parts of the last recall were bad, Probably the same will happen with this one. right now my frig is working, so I'll take my chances. The nearest dealer to me is 20 miles, 2 round trips would be at least $25.00 of gas plus half a day. I will try to get the part sent to me.

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My earlier reply didn't get posted, in summary, I'm not going to get this one as the first recall more than a year ago took 3 trips to get a good part.. I'll take my chances. Brett you will probably not agree.

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Just got this information from another forum. Resetting the Safety Board

Posted: 08/07/13 12:02pm

Some Norcold information I thought I would share it. As of June 28, 2012, Norcold is no longer providing dealers with replacement recall kits (#634737) for failed temperature monitoring control modules. They have instead provided a troubleshooting tree and a reset procedure. The gist of the tree is

1) if the module light is blinking fast, it is not seeing the thermocouple,
2) if the module light is blinking slow, it is seeing an under voltage condition,
3) if the module light is always on, it has sensed an overheat condition. When the light is ON solid, the module is in what they term a "lockout state". To clear the lockout, they suggest using a magnetic screwdriver (they show the type with replaceable tips) held against the plastic cover above the light parallel to the ground for five seconds. If the module fails to reset, they suggest a stronger magnet. This seems to be their fix. They also have a new and differently configured 'Rev E' unit that has a locking connection for the thermocouple.

This is a link to a Tech. bulletin from Newmar that might prove helpful.

http://comnet2.newmarcorp.com/instance1Env77NEWMAR/html/images/TSB395.pdf

Rich.

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Just got this information from another forum. Resetting the Safety Board

Posted: 08/07/13 12:02pm

Some Norcold information I thought I would share it. As of June 28, 2012, Norcold is no longer providing dealers with replacement recall kits (#634737) for failed temperature monitoring control modules. They have instead provided a troubleshooting tree and a reset procedure. The gist of the tree is

1) if the module light is blinking fast, it is not seeing the thermocouple,

2) if the module light is blinking slow, it is seeing an under voltage condition,

3) if the module light is always on, it has sensed an overheat condition. When the light is ON solid, the module is in what they term a "lockout state". To clear the lockout, they suggest using a magnetic screwdriver (they show the type with replaceable tips) held against the plastic cover above the light parallel to the ground for five seconds. If the module fails to reset, they suggest a stronger magnet. This seems to be their fix. They also have a new and differently configured 'Rev E' unit that has a locking connection for the thermocouple.

This is a link to a Tech. bulletin from Newmar that might prove helpful.

http://comnet2.newmarcorp.com/instance1Env77NEWMAR/html/images/TSB395.pdf

Rich.

I have read on a couple of forums about the "fix" for the module red light coming on and shutting down the frig. That is what it is supposed to do if there is a dangerous condition. Now, I know there have been many instances where the module has malfunctioned and has been replaced. But, why would you want to take a chance with magnetizing, or wiring around the module, etc., if it is there to try to protect you from burning up? Just shut it down and get it fixed.

Don

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Hi Don,

It appears from all the information I have been able to find that the safety circuit design works, maybe too well; regarding current spikes.

The board forces one to keep a close eye on the AC heater coil for possible arcing between the coil and the ammonia tank.

The board will shut down the heater and control board should it sense a current spike above a preset level. This insures there is no power present that can cause an arc lasting long enough to burn a hole in the tank.

Remember, should one reset the board and have it immediately re-fault, there is a STRONG possibility of arcing and a through check of the coil and tank area is required.

Also, from what I have found regarding the fires reported, most if not all happen when the refrigerators are running on AC and not on LP.

Maybe too well, is only because the current sensor is so sensitive. Better to low then not low enough!

Note, there are power loggers that can be connected between the AC power socket and the refrigerator, at will create and store a log on current and voltage conditions; one can review and even print out a paper log if desired.

Rich.

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I have had bad experiences with RV folks and my NORCOLD N400 4.5 2 WAY. long story eventually the selector switch was replaced at RV shop in Appleton, wi, however, 2 yrs later it is displaying the same symptoms. calling NORCOLD is worthless. the refrig works on electric if level. but on propane will light but when i let go of the red button it goes out. I have to take the refrig out to get at the controls to check for loose wiring or dirty connectors. so far i have not done this. i do not use my rv often(1990 Toyota Winnebago mini) but do miss the LP REFRIG. Boondock when out.... any suggestions..refrig is a 2006 model

New info on this frig as of 9/3/13. now the electric part does not work and the LP goes off the second I release the red button. CORRECTION THE ELECTRIC REFRIG. DID WORK LATER IN SEPT 2013.

11/29/13

Thinking it again might be the selector switch. I DID BUY SWITCH, NOT INSTALLED

I COULD NOT FIND ANY RECALLS ON THIS N400

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