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Honda CR-V Can't Lock Doors While Towing
#1
Posted 10 April 2011 - 10:41 PM
Thanks for any replies.
#2
Posted 11 April 2011 - 03:28 AM
#3
Guest_BillAdams_*
Posted 11 April 2011 - 07:03 AM
#4
Posted 11 April 2011 - 07:41 AM
Sam
#5
Posted 11 April 2011 - 12:27 PM
#6
Guest_Wayne77590_*
Posted 11 April 2011 - 03:01 PM
Good luck.
#7
Posted 11 April 2011 - 07:50 PM
GM
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Hazel, captive British Bride
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Fleetwood Discovery 39S
#8
Posted 10 June 2011 - 04:08 PM
Tiffin Allegro 28DA
FMCA #341229
Blue Ox Tow Bar
Towing 94 Honda Accord
#9
Guest_BillAdams_*
Posted 10 June 2011 - 04:57 PM
#10
Posted 10 June 2011 - 05:30 PM
As mentioned earlier, any second key should lock the car without issue.
I tow a '99 CRV and can not lock the car with a key in the ignition..not w/the key or the fob(?). When I stop for any extended time I pull the key & so-far I've remembered to re place it...It's gonna be an UGLY day if I have a senior moment and forget...expensive too.
#11
Posted 11 June 2011 - 02:22 PM
Mike and Heather Visentin
Parry Sound, Ontario
2003 HR Ambassador 32PBD
Cummins ISC 315, Allison 3000MH
2003 Ford Explorer XLT Toad, Roadmaster Sterling Tow Bar, Evenbrake 9400.
FMCA410271
I've seen most of our two countries from the air, now I'm looking forward to seeing them from the ground!
#12
Posted 11 June 2011 - 06:34 PM
What year of Accord do you tow? I have a1994 with and manual tranny that I want to tow. Just curious.I do not have a CRV but I do have a Honda Accord. One trick I learned to leave the vehicle running and lock the doors is to reach in from the back door and push down the manual lock button(not the power lock button) on the driver's door from the inside. The Accord's driver lock activates all the doors. Then I just close the rear door and they are all locked with key in and running. I use my spare to unlock the drivers door. Not sure this will help but it might be worth a try.
Tiffin Allegro 28DA
FMCA #341229
Blue Ox Tow Bar
Towing 94 Honda Accord
#13
Posted 11 June 2011 - 09:50 PM
Mike and Heather Visentin
Parry Sound, Ontario
2003 HR Ambassador 32PBD
Cummins ISC 315, Allison 3000MH
2003 Ford Explorer XLT Toad, Roadmaster Sterling Tow Bar, Evenbrake 9400.
FMCA410271
I've seen most of our two countries from the air, now I'm looking forward to seeing them from the ground!
#14
Posted 26 September 2011 - 03:37 PM
"Lack of Planning on your part, doesn't make it my Emergency"
2008 Winnebago Destination- Cummins 340
2010 CRV in tow
Labrador Retrievers on Board
#15
Posted 26 September 2011 - 03:56 PM
Still trying to resolve a trickle charging to the tow battery as I now leave the fuse in place.....I have a 7 to 6 plug and thought that would keep the battery charged....
Yes, that should leave you plenty of wires to set up a toad battery trickle charger from your coach charging system.
To do it properly, you will need, on the coach end: Handy source of fused 12 VDC-- engine battery is a good source. The fuse should be right at the positive terminal. Than large gauge wire (for less voltage drop) should go to the "always not" side of a simple relay (Under $10 at auto parts houses). A 40 amp would be plenty. Use any "hot when ignition on" wire to activate the relay. That way the charge line is only hot when you are driving. Continue with large gauge wire from the relay "out side" to the coach end of the toad plug.
On the toad, use large gauge wire from toad-end wiring loom to the battery positive post WITH ANOTHER FUSE AT THIS POST AS WELL. This second fuse is important, since both batteries are hot and could have a short were the wire to ever touch ground.
The ground path needs to be a robust as the hot. Best coach chassis battery to toad battery if you have the wires in the plug to do it.
Doing it yourself your parts costs should be under $25 to do it the right way.
Brett
Dianne and Brett Wolfe
1997 Safari Sahara 3540
Moderator, FMCA.com Forums
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Member, FMCA Long-Range and Development Committee 2007-2009
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#16
Posted 26 September 2011 - 10:04 PM
I believe that you can use a 2nd key and manually lock the door.
Exactly right. I leave the grey valet key in the ignition while towing since I may need other keys on that ring. You cannot lock the doors with the remote, but you can use the regular key to lock up "the old-fashioned way."
#17
Posted 06 October 2011 - 11:17 AM
We leave the fuse in the FIT installed and have a "Battery Maintainer" that we purchased from brake buddy. You should have or be able to provide 12V at your 7 pin plug on the coach. The battery maintainer is connected to the corresponding 12V on the 6 pin plug on the toad and to the positive terminal of the 12V battery on the toad. This keeps the toad battery charged while towing and allows 12V to be available to your brake system as well.
jdmosk
#18
Posted 06 October 2011 - 12:28 PM
The same way we do it with our 2007 Honda CRV. Pretty simple actually.Exactly right. I leave the grey valet key in the ignition while towing since I may need other keys on that ring. You cannot lock the doors with the remote, but you can use the regular key to lock up "the old-fashioned way."
Simon (toy poodle)
2008 Winnebago Vectra 40TD
2007 Honda CRV
#19
Posted 06 October 2011 - 01:24 PM
Just bought a 2011 Honda CR-V to tow behind motorhome. The security system will not allow you to lock the doors with a key in the ignition. You must have a key in the ignition to unlock the steering wheel. Is there any way to lock the doors while towing?
Thanks for any replies.
Yes I tow the same vehicle. Use your valet or spare key for the ignition, Lock all but the drivers door with your electric door button then when you close the drivers door and lock it with your regular ignition key. Hope this helps
#20
Posted 07 October 2011 - 10:33 AM
Yes, that should leave you plenty of wires to set up a toad battery trickle charger from your coach charging system.
To do it properly, you will need, on the coach end: Handy source of fused 12 VDC-- engine battery is a good source. The fuse should be right at the positive terminal. Than large gauge wire (for less voltage drop) should go to the "always not" side of a simple relay (Under $10 at auto parts houses). A 40 amp would be plenty. Use any "hot when ignition on" wire to activate the relay. That way the charge line is only hot when you are driving. Continue with large gauge wire from the relay "out side" to the coach end of the toad plug.
On the toad, use large gauge wire from toad-end wiring loom to the battery positive post WITH ANOTHER FUSE AT THIS POST AS WELL. This second fuse is important, since both batteries are hot and could have a short were the wire to ever touch ground.
The ground path needs to be a robust as the hot. Best coach chassis battery to toad battery if you have the wires in the plug to do it.
Doing it yourself your parts costs should be under $25 to do it the right way.
Brett
"Lack of Planning on your part, doesn't make it my Emergency"
2008 Winnebago Destination- Cummins 340
2010 CRV in tow
Labrador Retrievers on Board
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