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Tire Balancing


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#1 BettyBlank

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Posted 14 May 2011 - 06:28 PM

I actually have two questions. I am looking to replace my RV tires (Michelin 245/70 R19.5 Load H). My door panel says tires 245/70 R19.5G. Not sure if I should stay with the load H tire or if I can drop to the G.

Also, has anyone balanced using "Equal".

This is all new to me!
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#2 wolfe10

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Posted 14 May 2011 - 06:57 PM

Betty,

First question if you are contemplating changing to a lower load rated tire is have you weighted all wheel positions when loaded to your coach's heaviest weight (i.e. full tanks and just pulling out of Walmart after a BIG shopping trip)?

If not, assume that your chassis maker speced the least expensive/lowest load range tires that would meet their GVWR. Therefore, without facts to the contrary, stay go with at least the load range your chassis maker speced.

Brett
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#3 mrboyer

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Posted 14 May 2011 - 07:04 PM

My local dealer that sells both Goodyear and Michelins states that you should use two load ranges lower than specified using Michelins, because the side walls are not as strong. So if "G" is specified, that would mean to go to "I."
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#4 garykd

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Posted 15 May 2011 - 08:46 AM

Hi mrboyer,
Consider finding another tire dealer. Not wanting to be redundant, Brett provided the correct advice. I'd add a bit more that Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR) is something you should know. My assumption is you are not over weight on the axles. Purchase tires that will handle the maximum weight the coach (GVWR) and each axle (GAWR) will carry.

I have not used Equal for balancing. I have found spin balancing and lead weights work for me. Lastly, I will not purchase tires from a shop that is unable spin balance the tires.
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#5 BettyBlank

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Posted 15 May 2011 - 12:15 PM

Thank you everyone, I will stick with tires that came with it. I still would like some more feedback on the balancing . . . equal vs. spin balancing with weights.

Thanks!
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#6 wolfe10

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Posted 15 May 2011 - 12:30 PM

Betty,

Best, in my opinion is to balance the wheel/tire ON THE COACH.

After mounting the new tire and wheel on the coach, check for RUN-OUT FIRST. Every tire store worth stopping at has a run-out gauge and this only takes 1-2 minutes. You start here, as even a well balanced "egg" is, well, still an egg and will not give you a smooth ride no matter how well it is balanced. If over .035" run-out correct it. It can be corrected several different ways-- rotate the wheel on the hub. Loosen the lug nuts with the point of most run-out at the top and let the few thousands of an inch play work to your advantage. If still out, have the tires trued. There are still a few shops that do tire truing. And contrary to myth, an absolutely true tire that you removed, say .050" (50 thousandth of an inch) from the high side will last a lot longer than if you leave that little bit of extra rubber on the tire.

Next, spin balance the tire on the vehicle. Actually, since it is on the vehicle, you are balancing ALL the mass that rotates which is what you want. You really don't care where the imbalance is-- you want it corrected. By balancing on the vehicle, you account for any imbalance in the hub, brake drum or disk, wheel AND tire. Again, a perfectly balanced wheel and tire mounted on a brake drum that is 4 ounces out of balance (not that much on a 100 pound drum) will NOT have all the rotating mass balanced.

Brett
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#7 mikev

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Posted 15 May 2011 - 03:43 PM

Just to add to mrboyer's post, the load rating on a tire is a standardized value, if you are being given advice from a tire shop that Michelin's "G" load rating is different from other manufacturers' "G" rating then that shop is at the least irresponsible in their advice. I strongly agree with garykd-find another dealer....
I just arranged to have new tires installed on my coach after talking to no less than 12 dealers here in Ontario and down in the Buffalo to Rochester area. I was shocked at times to hear some of what these people were saying.
1. Sorry I cannot get you new tires built-date coded in the last 3 or 4 months, they take at least 9 months to be shipped from Europe.
2. No-one will sell you tires date coded less than a year..
3. Date code is just a reference, the date actually starts when you install them....
4. they don't age in storage
5. Balancing is not required especially on the rear duals...
6. This brand of tire is junk-that brand is junk....
7. We will not put on stem extenders even if you want them back on....

Last year I went in to a dealer in Erie, PA after arranging ahead of time for new tires and also ensuring they had a spin balancer. I got there-the tires were 12 months old and their spin balancer was"broken". All after talking to them 3 days before. I told them to keep their tires and left with my hard earned money.

I could go on but it is a moot point, I decided to keep looking until I could find a dealer that would guarantee the date code would be within 3 or 4 months. They would spin balance them and install them as I wanted. There is a lot of misconceptions out there, do your research, make sure you get what you want -the way you want.

Good Luck
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#8 Butch39

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Posted 16 May 2011 - 09:09 AM

I actually have two questions. I am looking to replace my RV tires (Michelin 245/70 R19.5 Load H). My door panel says tires 245/70 R19.5G. Not sure if I should stay with the load H tire or if I can drop to the G.

Also, has anyone balanced using "Equal".

This is all new to me!

We had new tires installed and they used equal to balance, they are a truck tire store and they told me that is all they use. The balance part is a'okay, BUT, one has to be careful when checking the air pressures as to the position of tire valve. If in the lower quadrant, the equal powder will enter the valve, and after taking the pressure reading, will give you a very slow air leak. When in the upper quadrant, you have to release just a very small amount of air, to clear the valve before taking the tire pressure reading. At least that is how I have had to check pressures. I personally would not recommend "equal", just my two cents and experience......
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#9 BettyBlank

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Posted 16 May 2011 - 09:39 AM

Thanks Everyone! I have learned a lot!!
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#10 charles10

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Posted 16 July 2011 - 09:53 PM

I am not a newbie just to this group. We sold our Airstream and got an Allegro bus last year. We have had flats on most of the year old tires while sitting still. Each time valve stem was blocked with something that looked like a hybrid between sand and ashes. Maybe it was "equal". Have had all tires washed clean inside.
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#11 fossfactor

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Posted 14 August 2011 - 02:52 PM

Just to clarify what I have read, there is no need to balance the dual tire? We just replaced 2 that look like they are from the "Flintstones" car, on the inside of our dual. Do they balance them at the truck stores? I would think that it would need to be done.




Brad and Kathy
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#12 wolfe10

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Posted 14 August 2011 - 03:21 PM

Brad and Kathy,

No clear consensus here. Many recommend balancing all tires, others only the fronts.

I personally have all tires balanced.

Brett
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#13 Roymeyer

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Posted 25 August 2011 - 07:23 PM

Butch
I am in search of tires and found a "good" price but they only use equal for balancing, I can see why when all you do is throw in a bag. Anyway I noted the problems you had and was wondering if you had new valve stems with filters on the end when the tires were replaced?
Thanks
Roy
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#14 TONYLACEY

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Posted 25 August 2011 - 09:54 PM

If I might add to all of the previous comments concerning tires and balancing........... To the point that the dealer stated that if you use Michelins you should increase by two load ranges, this is an untrue statement, Michelin designs their tires with a softer side wall to provide the best ride possible so what do we do when we make something softer e.g. a mattress we use better products in the assembly for comfort and durability it may cost more at the end of the day but is a superior product. In my professional opinion as a Tire Man, you should consider the Michelin XZE this tire is designed with trademark technology called a "beefy boisterous sidewall for the best durability. Visit www.michelinrvtires.com to learn more.

To the balancing point, I am and always have been a firm believer in only putting in what goes in, you would not want to put acid in your swimming pool, as it is not designed to hold it, so with a tire the tire is only designed to hold AIR and in my opinion (and it is only that) you should not put foreign objects in your tires e.g. balance beads, equal, golf balls etc. In addition, It is always important to have the dealer check the RADIAL RUNOUT of the tire. This measurement determines the overall "ROUNDNESS" of the mounted assembly, the tolerances are measured in thousandths of an inch and acceptable measurements range from 0.000 to 0.060 I have measured the run out of hundreds of new Michelin Tires and have never experienced a run out of more than 0.040 in a properly mounted assembly. So in my opinion there should be more considered regarding balancing than throwing a bag of dust in your brand new very expensive investment. I hope my two cents worth helps someone.

Most Respectfully,

Tony Lacey
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#15 Guest_BillAdams_*

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Posted 25 August 2011 - 10:00 PM

I have all 8 tires balanced. I have had both good and bad jobs done, however, and you know right away when you hit the highway if the store did it right or wrong. The best balance job we ever had was at a truck shop in Colorado Springs. The best ride of my life. It's never been duplicated by any other shop and I have never been able to return to that shop. We are headed that way next month and I hope to hunt them down and let me do a balance on my new tires which just don't live up to the job they did.

#16 Butch39

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Posted 26 August 2011 - 08:23 AM

Butch
I am in search of tires and found a "good" price but they only use equal for balancing, I can see why when all you do is throw in a bag. Anyway I noted the problems you had and was wondering if you had new valve stems with filters on the end when the tires were replaced?
Thanks
Roy


Roy,

Yes they did replace all valve stems, but I do not believe they were equipted with filters, nor personally knew about stems with filters ?????? Don't have this problem now as we have just traded up to a "new to us" unit at the end of July. One way to solve a problem(s).....
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#17 hermanmullins

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Posted 26 August 2011 - 04:28 PM

I have all 8 tires balanced. I have had both good and bad jobs done, however, and you know right away when you hit the highway if the store did it right or wrong. The best balance job we ever had was at a truck shop in Colorado Springs. The best ride of my life. It's never been duplicated by any other shop and I have never been able to return to that shop. We are headed that way next month and I hope to hunt them down and let me do a balance on my new tires which just don't live up to the job they did.


Bill we will be going through Colorado Springs next week. Please list the name of the truck stop if you can. I would like to have our tires balanced there.
Thanks,
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#18 obsradio

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Posted 04 November 2011 - 11:09 PM

i have used the equal product on my old coach and thought it was well worth it. In fact I have priced it out to have them installed on my new coach and have the ugly wheel weights taken off.

I am still trying to justify the cost to do it to wheels that are balanced just to make the wheels look better with out the weights hanging on them.
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#19 sgureasko

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Posted 05 November 2011 - 10:15 AM

I have had tires balanced both ways(weights and Equal),not at the same time, and I find Equal does a better job. Now, that being said, my tires are 22.5's. I feel that with 19'5's, weights would probably be better. I buy my Equal for around $20 a bag(which comes with a special valve core and tag to put on the stem. Most shops can balance 19.5's, but it takes a large truck shop to do the same. Most of the truck shops that I have talked to prefer to do it the way I have said. Most 18 wheelers run Equal or something similar. Of course, they change tires more often than we do.
Just my .02 cents worth.
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#20 jrwitt

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Posted 05 November 2011 - 11:46 AM

You mentioned that Equal comes with a special valve core and a tag to put on the stem. Is this valve core still compatible with the various tire pressure monitoring systems? Why does the Equal need a special valve core?

Thanks,
Jack
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