Welcome to the FMCA Motorhome Forums!
Register now to gain access to all of our features. Once registered and signed in, you will be able to create topics; post replies to existing topics; upload pictures; manage your profile; get your own private messenger; create blogs; and more. Sign up now! Already have an account? Sign in. This message will be removed once you are signed in.
Posted 10 November 2011 - 08:07 AM
However, I am wondering if I should change to a synthetic or a synthetic blend. We don't use the generator much but I do follow Onan's recommendations and exercise the generator monthly. Since all has worked well so far I probably will stick with just the regular oil but will appreciate comments on changing to synthetic or a blend.
Posted 10 November 2011 - 09:39 AM
"Fair winds and Following Seas"
Herman & Bobbie Mullins
'02 Monaco Dynasty
40 ft 400 HP ISL
Chevrolet Silverado (M & G air brakes)
US Navy PR-3 1956 to 1964
Southern Region Vice President for Six-State Rally Association
Lone Star Chapter FMCA Past President
South Central Lucky Rollers
Rally in The Pasture
Posted 10 November 2011 - 03:24 PM
Towing 2006 Honda CR-V AWD
Posted 20 February 2012 - 09:21 PM
Posted 20 February 2012 - 11:06 PM
We have been dry camping for the last 33 days running the generator about 10 hours per day (long story). We did an oil change in October and we will do one later this month after about 400 hours. No worries!
Posted 04 March 2012 - 03:26 AM
I figure that the cost of an engine rebuild on an Onan generator (particularly a diesel) is high enough to make full synthetic oil cheap insurance. But really, it just feels right.
Posted 04 March 2012 - 10:35 AM
Make sure the viscosity of the oil conforms with both engine manufacturers specs for the ambient temperatures were you drive.
5-...... is lighter than recommended for most engines unless operated in Arctic conditions.
Dianne and Brett Wolfe
1997 Safari Sahara 3540
Moderator, FMCA.com Forums
Chairman, FMCA Technical Advisory Committee
Member, FMCA Long-Range and Development Committee 2007-2009
Moderator, http://www.dieselrvclub.org/(FMCA chapter)
Posted 04 March 2012 - 01:24 PM
"Q: Can I use synthetic oil in my generator?
A: People use synthetic oils because the general opinion is that they can be left
in the engine longer than regular oil. However, if you decide to use synthetic oil
in your generator the maintenance time intervals given in the operator manuals
must still be followed."
The Handbook can be downloaded here http://www.cumminson...dbook-2010.pdf
Clay (WA5NMR), Lee (Wife), katie & Kelli (cats)
Full timer domiciled in SD for 11 years. Now snow birds with a house in western CO
2004 Winnebago Sightseer 35N - Workhorse chassis
Posted 04 October 2013 - 05:46 PM
There is no commercial diesel engine company, Cummins, Detroit, Cat, Max Force, that recommends useing a 5W-40 SAE oil in temperate north America. You are playing a dangerous game. Synthetic or not.
Also even at like viscosity a synthetic oil is thinner than it's counterpart regular oil. This particularly shows up when a hot high milage engine is idleing, with synthetic at idle the oil pressure might drop to 5 PSI lower than recommended, with regular oil also at idle the same engine would show 12-15 Psi on hot engine. More is better when oil pressure is minimal.
Admittedly the synthetic lubricates somewhat more efficiently, however the main advantage is it's ability to handle heat.
Most diesel pushers today with intercoolers barely get to 180 degrees, heat is not a problem.
Off and On again Fulltimer.
"KEEP THE WIND TO YOUR BACK, THE SUN TO YOUR FACE, AND THE GREASY SIDE DOWN"
Posted 06 October 2013 - 10:43 PM
This is from the Onan RV Generator Handbook.
“Gasoline Engine Oil Quality – Use oil meeting any of the following API
Performance categories: SJ, SL or SM where SM is currently the highest quality
available. Look for the “Energy Conserving” designation to optimize fuel economy.”
NOTE: Multi-grade oils (such as SAE 15W-40) are recommended for year-round use in Cummins Onan
I highly recommend Mobil 1 full synthetic oil. You can use what ever viscosity you feel would be best for your application. I would use the 10-40 high mileage. It was developed for cars that have longer oil change intervals but can be changed to meet Onans recommendations and provide better protection.
Mobil 1 High Mileage 10W-40 synthetic motor oil meets or exceeds the requirements of:
API SN, SM, SL
Mobil 1 High Mileage 10W-40 is of the following quality level:
As you can see it meets or exceeds the requirements of the Onan Handbook.
Allison 3000MH tran.
Towing a Honda Civic on a Acmey tow dolley.
Posted 08 October 2013 - 11:16 AM
I just have to write a rebuttal to these statements.
“There is no commercial diesel engine company, Cummins, Detroit, Cat, Max Force, that recommends using 5W-40 SAE oil in temperate North America. You are playing a dangerous game. Synthetic or not.”
Engine manufactures recommend using oil that meets certain guide lines. Such as API CJ-4, CI-4 PLUS, CI-4, CH-4/ SM, SL, SJ. They often have a guide to viscosity.
I wasn’t able to copy and paste the Cummins chart that can be found on Quick Serve Service bulletin 3810340 04-DEC-2009 titled Cummins engine oil and oil analysis recommendations. The oil reconditions for 0 deg to 120+ was 0-40 5-40 15-40. The only restriction on synthetic was to use the same drain interval as regular oil.
“Also even at like viscosity a synthetic oil is thinner than it's counterpart regular oil. This particularly shows up when a hot high mileage engine is idling, with synthetic at idle the oil pressure might drop to 5 PSI lower than recommended, with regular oil also at idle the same engine would show 12-15 Psi on hot engine. More is better when oil pressure is minimal.”
When cold a 0-40 or 5-40 will flow faster but when at operating temperatures it will be a 40 weight oil and will show no difference in oil pressure. The fact that a 0-40 or 5-40 will flow faster when cold means it will be protecting your engine faster on start up when most wear occurs. I especially like the fact it gets to the turbo faster.
“Most diesel pushers today with intercoolers barely get to 180 degrees, heat is not a problem.”
The “intercooler” better called a charge air cooler is in front of the radiator and only cools the air from the turbo before it enters the engine to improve performance. It actually adds to the cooling load of the radiator. The diesel engine operates at much higher internal temps than a gas engine. It is only because they have much bigger cooling systems that they will run at the proper temperatures. You can do a search and find a large number of posts about coaches over heating. Most from dirty radiators. When I see EGT temps 1200 deg + when pulling a long hill I am glad I have oil that will stand up to it.
The oil today is not the oil of our youth. 50 years ago I would never run less than a strait 30 weight oil and never one of those new multi grade oils.
Allison 3000MH tran.
Towing a Honda Civic on a Acmey tow dolley.
0 user(s) are reading this topic
0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users