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#1
Posted 19 November 2011 - 08:36 PM
My chassis has a three ram leveling system, one front two rear. When I level the chassis and not raising the front what I believe to be an excessive amount, the entry door gets hard to close.
Is this common? Is it a serious flaw? What should be checked?
Any help would be appreciated.
#2
Posted 19 November 2011 - 08:41 PM
It is possible that the systems level sensor needs adjustment. Sure, it could be something more serious, but it could also be a 2 minute job with a screwdriver to adjust the sensor.
Brett
1993 Foretravel U240 w/Caterpillar 3116/Allison 3060
Moderator, FMCA.com Forums
Chairman, FMCA Technical Advisory Committee
Member, FMCA Long-Range and Development Committee 2007-2009
Moderator,http://www.catrvclub...forum/index.php (FMCA chapter)
#3
Posted 19 November 2011 - 10:43 PM
Welcome to the Forum.
Since you said you had a three point leveling system, you need to be aware of something about the front jack. When you are parked on grassy or gravel spots always put a large board under the front jack. Use something that will give your jack a large foot print. The center of those type of spots are not packed like the lanes under the tires. Your jack can sink into the ground due to the weight of the coach. One thing you might try to do before you level your coach is to dump your air. This will lower your coach and the jacks will not have to extend so far and will give you more travel to level your coach.
And do as Brett said and check to make sure that when it says your level that you really are.
Herman & Bobbie Mullins
McKinney, TEXAS
F302225
'02 Monaco Dynasty
40 ft 400 HP ISL
Chevrolet Silverado (M & G air brakes)
US Navy PR-3 1956 to 1964
Lone Star Chapter FMCA
Southcentral Lucky Rollers
Rally in The Pasture
#4
Posted 20 November 2011 - 01:16 PM
In your original post, I interpreted your statement of "When I level the chassis and not raising the front..." Are you saying you are not lowering the front jack at all? If that is the case, or if you are not lowering the front jack enough to take some of the weight off the front suspension, you are in effect using the support of the two front tires as the suspension supporting points in the front end and not the front jack. This may be why you cannot open the door properly. In worse cases, the windshield can crack.
So make sure to lower your front jack to unload some weight off the suspension and see if that helps.
Richard
2003 Safari Trek 3011 W20
8.1 Workhorse / Allison
#5
Posted 22 November 2011 - 10:01 PM
I do dump the air bags. The system I have when activating the jacks the system first dumps the bags and then begins extending the jacks. Sometimes I dump the jacks manually before. The "jacks down" indicator comes on and then the jacks "switch" to a manual mode. Final levelling comes by manipulating the jacks independantly to level the coach using indicators on the dash as to which jack need to be extended more. When any significant weight gets applied to the front single jack the door becomes hard to close.
I have tried to be sure the front is down first.
#6
Posted 23 November 2011 - 01:06 AM
We have found the best approach is just as Richard described above. First, find a somewhat level location to start with. Then dump the air bags to lower the coach. Next, plant the front jack firmly before lowering the second two to touch the ground also. Then adjust the jacks to level. It is important that all three jacks are equally loaded, even though they may be extended to different lengths.
When you experience the trouble with the front door, is one jack usually extended a whole lot further than the others? Also, when the door trouble appears, are there other signs of stress such as with windows or basement doors?
Good luck and happy Thanksgiving.
Tim
40' Monaco Dynasty
F410457
Orange County, California
#7
Posted 29 November 2011 - 10:15 PM
Thanks for your comments.
#8
Posted 29 November 2011 - 10:24 PM
1993 Foretravel U240 w/Caterpillar 3116/Allison 3060
Moderator, FMCA.com Forums
Chairman, FMCA Technical Advisory Committee
Member, FMCA Long-Range and Development Committee 2007-2009
Moderator,http://www.catrvclub...forum/index.php (FMCA chapter)
#9
Posted 06 December 2011 - 12:10 PM
I believe what is happening is that the entire structure twists when leveling. I keep a wrench under the entry steps to adjust the door striker each time we level. This helps a lot, but the underlying problem is that the motor home indeed flexes. I use a carpenter's level when deploying the jacks and find it is much more accurate than the built-in lights in the jack system. Also, I can also tell that the slideout tends to bind some when the coach is on the jacks so I extend the slideout before leveling while the air bags are still inflated; another sign that the coach body is twisting.
I don't know of any solution to the problem other than to live with it and adjust the entry door striker.
#10
Posted 06 December 2011 - 10:37 PM
Good luck.
#11
Posted 07 December 2011 - 04:00 AM
Richard
2003 Safari Trek 3011 W20
8.1 Workhorse / Allison
#12
Posted 07 December 2011 - 07:30 PM
#13
Posted 14 December 2011 - 01:07 AM
#14
Posted 14 December 2011 - 09:38 AM
Most leveling systems rely on some type of bubble level as a sensor. If it has been hit, mis adjusted, etc, it can easily MIS-level a coach. Adjustment is often as simple as using a screwdriver to position the sensor mounting feet.
1993 Foretravel U240 w/Caterpillar 3116/Allison 3060
Moderator, FMCA.com Forums
Chairman, FMCA Technical Advisory Committee
Member, FMCA Long-Range and Development Committee 2007-2009
Moderator,http://www.catrvclub...forum/index.php (FMCA chapter)
#15
Posted 04 January 2012 - 05:34 PM
My solution was to only allow the front jack to take minimum weight off the front end by manually manipulating the 3 jacks. I also made sure the MH was facing "uphill" when I parked it.
My final solution was to buy a later model with a 4 jack system.
#16
Posted 04 January 2012 - 05:48 PM
Facing the motorhome up a SLIGHT hill is OK. But, remember, the parking brake is on the REAR wheels. So, you never want to have to use the rear jacks to the point where the rear tires are close to leaving the ground.
Using boards, large enough to support the whole "footprint" of the tire to get close to level is a really good idea.
Brett
1993 Foretravel U240 w/Caterpillar 3116/Allison 3060
Moderator, FMCA.com Forums
Chairman, FMCA Technical Advisory Committee
Member, FMCA Long-Range and Development Committee 2007-2009
Moderator,http://www.catrvclub...forum/index.php (FMCA chapter)
#17
Posted 13 February 2012 - 12:35 PM
marty
#18
Posted 13 February 2012 - 12:38 PM
Many automatic leveling systems need to have the level sensor adjusted to agree with a good carpenter's level. Might try that before concluding that it won't level properly when deployed automatically.
1993 Foretravel U240 w/Caterpillar 3116/Allison 3060
Moderator, FMCA.com Forums
Chairman, FMCA Technical Advisory Committee
Member, FMCA Long-Range and Development Committee 2007-2009
Moderator,http://www.catrvclub...forum/index.php (FMCA chapter)
#19
Posted 02 May 2012 - 07:12 PM
I have been using your bathroom door system for years, also.
I get it close with the bubble level, then check the door for final adjustment.
I have a 3 jack manual Power /gear on a 1997 Discovery.
No entry door issues.
Harry Salit
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