New To Tow Dollies, Don't Understand?
Posted 22 January 2012 - 08:57 AM
I am looking at pulling my 07 4by4 chevy pickup on a tow dolly.
Anyone know why it shouldn't work?
Posted 22 January 2012 - 09:40 AM
Posted 22 January 2012 - 10:30 AM
2006 Alfa See Ya
2005 Jeep Liberty Renegade
Roadmaster Falcon 2 Towbar
Brake Buddy Vantage
Posted 22 January 2012 - 02:16 PM
http://www.fmca.com/...home/towing/204 -- must sign in as an FMCA member.
2010 Damon Daybreak Bunkhouse V-10 35' Gas
2003 Toad, Land Rover Discovery
Blue Ox Base Plate, Falcon All-Terrain Tow Bar
Posted 22 January 2012 - 06:43 PM
Posted 22 January 2012 - 09:21 PM
Welcome to the Forum.
Some time I agree with Bill, (Not often but sometimes) This time I agree whith Bill. With a 2007 Chevrolet 4X4 pickup you have the idea vehicle. You have 4 wheel drive, which means all you have to do is hook you truck to your M/H and put your truck in 4wheel drive neutral. To do this you set your parking brake, turn on the key but do not start your engine. Put your gear shift lever into neutral, put you foot and hold down the brake pedal. At the same time hold down the 2Hi and I beleive its the 4 Hi (Bottom Button). When your truck goes into 4 wheel neutral a Red light will come on. Put you shifter in Park, turn off the key and remove it and release the Parking Brake. As far as your truck is concerned you are ready to go. 5 minutes tops. Your truck doesn't have a locking pin in the steering wheel so you don't need to leave the key on.
You will still have to put your truck into 4 wheel neutral to pull it on a dolly.
Tow Bar $600.00. Base plates $400.00 (if you install them yourself) Secure connection to your coach. Tow Dolly $1,500.00 Min. Tow dolly extra weight. When your park you have to have a place to store the Dolly. Tires have to be strapped down on Dolly. My bet is for 4 wheels down, No Dolly.
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'02 Monaco Dynasty, 40-foot 400 HP ISL
Chevrolet Silverado (M & G air brakes)
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Posted 22 January 2012 - 09:37 PM
I had the same issue, and needed to get one vehicle home (1500 miles) never to tow it again, so didn't want the expense of the gear for flat towing, or the rental of a dolly or trailer, only to have to spend for the other vihicle.
Posted 22 January 2012 - 09:57 PM
Posted 22 January 2012 - 10:52 PM
You are forgetting the cost of the supplemental braking system. This puts the cost over the cost of a tow dolly. And with the tow dolly you can tow different vehicles.
2003 Safari Trek 3011 W20
8.1 Workhorse / Allison
Posted 22 January 2012 - 11:15 PM
Posted 28 January 2012 - 09:32 PM
While it should work, the question would be "why on Earth"? The dolly adds unnecessary weight and complication. Could you clarify why you would want to do this?
Are you saying a dolly is unnecessary under any condittions?
400HP Cummins, Allison 3000,
Mastertow Dolly, '98 Riviera
San Antonio, Texas
Posted 02 February 2012 - 06:56 PM
Posted 02 February 2012 - 08:31 PM
Which is easier? Four-down, hands down. Quicker to hook and unhook, no strapping down, etc etc. So why isn't that the end of the story? For most, it is; for me, it's not, for the following reasons:
1) Expense: first, you have to own or get a vehicle that can be flat-towed, and then spend $1.5-2.5k for tow gear, braking and lighting. You then can tow that vehicle, period. When you want or need to change or add tow'ds, you get to spend those equipments costs (or most of them) again. Dolly: $1500 for an Acme (the best, in my opinion, but that's another subject) with lifetime sealed hubs and disc surge brakes that work very well indeed, plus $30-50 for regular or LED magnetic lights.
2) Flexibility: now that you have a dolly, what can you tow? Any front-wheel-drive car, minivan or small SUV and most stick-shift RWD vehicles (plus many of the same pickups or SUVs you could flat-tow). I have four cars at the moment: an Avalon, a Solara convertible, a Chevy Venture minivan, and a '72 BMW Bavaria. I can -- and have - towed each of them, depending on the mission profile of the trip. Whatever vehicle I may buy next, my cost to adapt it for towing will be zero.
3) Resale: there will be no "de-equipping" of any vehicle I want to sell. Nor has there been any wear & tear on the towd powertrain.
But, you say, loading/strapping/unstrapping is a hassle and a dirty job. Generally it is, though you get better at it. The dolly is hard to store, you say. I've never had a problem with that, especially not with the Acme, which uses removable ramps and thus is very short; I shove it in under the rear of the coach up to its fenders when needed and it adds exactly two feet to my 40ft coach thus stowed. I do the same thing in the storage yard; I just back right over it.
I'm not saying dolly-towing is right for you; it may not be. But many of those who dismiss it out of hand haven't thought it thru, let alone tried it. I have done both, and have no plans to switch to flat towing. YMMV.
Gary W. Allen
2007 Phaeton 40 QDH / Freightliner / Cat C7
"Life in the Bus Lane"
Posted 03 February 2012 - 10:30 AM
Posted 05 February 2012 - 03:34 PM
Posted 05 February 2012 - 09:01 PM
As for maneuverability, I have only once been stuck where I had to unhook. That was "pilot error" and easily corrected. Like towing 4 down, when you back up, the dolly wheels will turn the way that is most inconvenient, after about 4 feet. If you can do a number of short back and forth, before the dolly wheels get sideways on you, you can get out of most situations without unhooking.
Posted 06 February 2012 - 06:46 AM
Posted 06 February 2012 - 04:52 PM
Posted 18 February 2012 - 11:57 AM
We have a small Class-C and get 10.5 mpg on gas. We do not full time. My car is a 2010 Hyundai Elantra auto so it is not good for 4 down and I only have 15k on it so selling really isn't an option. I have no space problems at home so storage of the dolly is no issue. In the past I raced a Camaro and had a 26' enclosed trailer so tying down a car to a dolly should be a non-issue for me. I think a dolly is the right choice for my situation. -
Surge brakes or electric on the dolly. My experience is with electric and I like being able to apply trailer brakes manually in certain situations.
I am guessing a 1 or 2 mpg hit on overall fuel economy. Does this sound reasonable?
I note the brands mentioned - Tow Master, Roadmaster and Acme and have heard of Remco will Google them to see what my options are. Other brands you might recommend?
Thanks in advance for your comments and ideas.
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Posted 18 February 2012 - 01:50 PM
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