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Do-Not-Shift Light on Allison Transmission

shifting problems do not shift light

34 replies to this topic

#21 peterdube

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Posted 15 February 2012 - 08:37 PM

William,

My tach,amp guage,air buzzer,all were not working found a loose wire inside the ele. panel under the drivers window (behind outside door) Found it by mistake at night by moving the wires, saw some arcing and there was a loose connection.

Also,with the key on the buzzer would go on and off once we found the loose connection by moving the loose wire around

Hope this helps. This was on our 99 monaco windsor.

Good luck!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

peterdube

#22 williamhorn

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Posted 23 February 2012 - 11:59 AM

Well we finally got propane, we were almost empty when we finally got someone to come where we are, I guess I am gonna have to get it towed because I sure can't get it figured out. I can't get the mode to clear. I finally noticed when I first turned the key on and N blinked a couple of times there was also a mode on blinking. I tried to hold the mode light down to clear it but that did not work. I appreciate all the members that have given me ideas to search.

William Horn

#23 DickandLois

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Posted 23 February 2012 - 01:22 PM

William, Glad you got some propane delivered.
I have been reading over all your posts again. No tack signal present,3060 Allison and 300 Cummins.
Got to believe the trans is not shifting because the tack signal is not present on the Gauge.

The Engine starts up with no problem and no engine codes present, so the crank sensor is working and its signal is reaching the engine ECM, this signal also is used to control the fuel injection system.

The only thing I can come up with is there is an open wire between the Engine ECM and the TCM. The fact that the Tack signal is missing at the Tachometer is it comes from TCM ( Could be defective) or a connection problem between the ECM and TCM.

Hoping my thoughts can help narrow down the area of the issue.

Good luck and let us know what you find to fix the problem.

R.M.

#24 williamhorn

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Posted 06 March 2012 - 11:54 AM

Thanks for the thoughts, I am trying everything. Nothing seems to be working. I appreciate all the help.
William Horn

#25 DickandLois

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Posted 06 March 2012 - 08:05 PM

William, Check this link.
http://www.irv2.com/...pad-112447.html

This could be the problem, if you have a meter and read the voltage at start up with the meter connected to the power circuit,watch the meter and see if the voltage drops and the shift pad then goes blank.
The ECM for the transmission is located right in the shift selector area, from what I have been able to dig up so far.

This makes some sense to me because it was working fine until you tried to engage the transmission after it had been sitting for a period of time, positive power is supplied through a butt connector ( Red Wire) near the control module. Bad connection no transmission and no Tachometer reading.

R.M.

#26 Sundancer268

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Posted 09 March 2012 - 07:01 AM

If I am reading this right the OP has a 1994 coach. With this vintage engine, I doubt that the engine has electronic engine controls. That would imply that with the mechanical fuel injection, the tack signal has to come from some where else. The most common place in that era was the Alternator and some engines if not using the alternator used a separate signal pick-up The Tack is where I would start first. Could just be a bad connection on the sensor or a failing alternator.

#27 williamhorn

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Posted 08 April 2012 - 02:42 PM

Hello everyone that has given me ideas to check out on my transmission not shifting.... I have checked everything and nothing works.. I am going to find a place to tow my motor home to get a mechanic to check it out.. Does any one know a good place to have it towed and get it checked out near Grove Oklahoma or Joplin Mo?

I appreciate everyone for taking the time to give me ideas.. I am just tired of messing with it now.. I need to get it fixed and get back to Colorado

Thanks again, William Horn

#28 wolfe10

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Posted 08 April 2012 - 03:20 PM

William,

Before spending the big bucks, have you verified with a digital voltmeter that the TWO 12 VDC positives are at 12 or more VDC? Easiest to check at the transmission side of the fuses. One is for ECU memory (i.e. is hot all the time) and is the smaller of the fuses (5 amp in many cases). The other fuse is only hot when the ignition is on.

If both of these are OK and ground for the Allison ECU is clean and tight, give John (one of my first posts) a call. All he does is work with Allison ECU's and shift pads.

Yes, plan C is to get an expert to look at it.

Brett
Dianne and Brett Wolfe
1993 Foretravel U240 w/Caterpillar 3116/Allison 3060
Moderator, FMCA.com Forums
Chairman, FMCA Technical Advisory Committee
Member, FMCA Long-Range and Development Committee 2007-2009
Moderator,http://www.catrvclub...forum/index.php (FMCA chapter)

#29 williamhorn

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Posted 11 April 2012 - 04:43 PM

I will check this out. I did call John yesterday about rebuilding the ECU. I talked to the tech people at Monaco today. The first thing they said was disconnect the center wire on the battery isolater and use a multi meter and check the voltage for the alternator. Well there it was, jumped from 7 to 8 and that was it. So it is a bad voltage regulator or alternator. Tomorrow I take the alternator out and see if I can get it replaced. I am going to check the voltage regulator also. I sure hope this solves the problem. I will let everyone know. Thanks for all the help, it is much appreciated,

William Horn

#30 williamhorn

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Posted 11 April 2012 - 04:46 PM

I am wondering if theres an easy way to take this alternator out? Does any one have ideas?
Thanks,
William Horn

#31 DickandLois

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Posted 11 April 2012 - 09:39 PM

William,

Just posted a thread regarding Alternators. Boy oh Boy did I miss this one!

They can be a pain to remove, you NEED too tape up the red wire running to the battery positive connections.
Not knowing your skill level, take some pictures of the connections and label the wires so you can reconnect them correctly.
Detension the belt, use some penetrating oil on all the bolts. Loosen all the bolts. The hardest one is the bolt running through the hinge point ,if your set up uses this type mount.

They weigh about 20 lbs. and can be hard to hold and there is little more then room for one person. So work safe and maybe get someone to help hold the alternator.

Bottom bolts come out first and top ones last, this allows the helper to get a hand under it and out of the way of the area for the top one(s) so they can be removed.

Hope this helps.

Rich

#32 williamhorn

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Posted 12 April 2012 - 07:16 AM

Thanks Rich. I used to do this stuff all the time ( on cars that is) but it has been a long time. I have learned a lot on this though. It has really been hard. I sure appreciate everyone's help. I could not have done it with out everyone. I will let you know if this fixes the do not shift light.

Thanks again,
William Horn

#33 DickandLois

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Posted 05 May 2012 - 11:31 PM

Hi William,

See you have not been logged on for a few days,

Hope you are doing OK !!

Rich.

#34 williamhorn

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Posted 08 May 2012 - 08:58 PM

I sent my ECM to John, got it back and everything works perfect... This guy is really good. Thanks for telling me about him.

William Horn

#35 wolfe10

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Posted 09 May 2012 - 08:09 AM

You are welcome. Glad it worked out.

Brett
Dianne and Brett Wolfe
1993 Foretravel U240 w/Caterpillar 3116/Allison 3060
Moderator, FMCA.com Forums
Chairman, FMCA Technical Advisory Committee
Member, FMCA Long-Range and Development Committee 2007-2009
Moderator,http://www.catrvclub...forum/index.php (FMCA chapter)





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