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#1
Posted 02 February 2012 - 06:40 PM
The doors are locked and tugged on before departure but one or sometimes two fly open.
Much cargo has been lost.
Any suggestions?
#2
Posted 02 February 2012 - 07:43 PM
I can see where one or two of the doors could be affected while on a trip.
This problem thread should be interesting to follow.
#3
Posted 02 February 2012 - 08:02 PM
#4
Posted 02 February 2012 - 10:52 PM
The only thing I can invision, is there has to be something out of spec. All of them acting the same way is just hard the get a grip on. I could under stand a number of them having a problen IF a side had been damaged at some point,,but even then that would reguire the entire length of one side. That would of been one big crunch.
I think we need to look at this from a different point of view.
Ok all the cargo doors pop open when on the road.
The latch pins should extend out and be about even with the edge of the cargo. that is as far as you can extend then and still open the doors with out catching on something else.
The catches should line up with center of the pins. An example--- IF the pin extends out 3/4in from it mounting and the latch is 1/2in. wide then there would be 1/8in. at the inside and 1/8in. on the outer end of the pin beyond the latch bracket. Granted this would be the perfect placement,but that never is going to happen in the real world. The more of the bracket the pin can extend under the better up to the point,where when you pull on the handel(s) to open the cargo door; they need to clear to alow it to open.
Each pin has a spring that forces it outward and when you pull the handel you compress the spring thus clearing the latch bracket. There are two latches per door and one could have a bad spring,but the other side will force its pin outward and the other pin will be forced out with it. If your door have only one pin and the spring is broken. Then vibration will work the pin out from under the latching bracket and pop goes the door. The problem is that if the door is locked, then the handel if in the down / in the travel position and locked it should stay closed.
I have no history of the coach and if a prior was like a gorilla, then all I can say all bets are off.
I do need to keep my latches tight and the pins lubed,along with the lock cylinders to keep things working.
Hope the thoughts help.
#5
Posted 03 February 2012 - 08:33 AM
Herman & Bobbie Mullins
McKinney, TEXAS
F302225
'02 Monaco Dynasty
40 ft 400 HP ISL
Chevrolet Silverado (M & G air brakes)
US Navy PR-3 1956 to 1964
Lone Star Chapter FMCA
Southcentral Lucky Rollers
Rally in The Pasture
#6
Posted 03 February 2012 - 11:17 PM
We just never know when a door will open and of course it opens up completely because of the (air shock cylinders?). I have often wondered if the air temperature change has anything to do with it.They have come open more often in early am and late in the day just before sundown. Bumpy dirt roads have not made them open. We are very hesitant about drilling holes on the outside to install gate latches or hasps and were hoping someone could come up with an aternative fix for us.
#7
Posted 04 February 2012 - 11:39 AM
Secondly, a combination of the pressure of the door seals, and a slightly worn tongue of the latch might allow the latch to "not" fully latch upon closing. Then again, it might be a combination of the two.
If this were mine, I would empty a compartment, and with a "trusted" assistant, allow the assistant to close the door with me inside the compartment - then attempt to force the door open. This would tell you more of the story.
'04 Meridian
'03 Jeep Liberty
M&G Brake System
#8
Posted 04 February 2012 - 11:45 AM
Be sure you give your assistant a good flash light, so they can look at the latch to see if it is fully engaged.
If you can, open up the cover to your latches check to see if they are moving all the way up and down. If not WD-40 to clean them and then a good silicone lubricant.
Herman & Bobbie Mullins
McKinney, TEXAS
F302225
'02 Monaco Dynasty
40 ft 400 HP ISL
Chevrolet Silverado (M & G air brakes)
US Navy PR-3 1956 to 1964
Lone Star Chapter FMCA
Southcentral Lucky Rollers
Rally in The Pasture
#9
Posted 04 February 2012 - 04:40 PM
#10
Posted 01 March 2012 - 09:51 PM
We have a 2000 American Eagle that sometimes does the same thing on the swing-up bay doors, especially the battery bay door. I recently discovered that the latch rod between the rear latch and the latch handle on that door was in a bind against a rubber gasket. Once I moved (bent) the rod to where it should have been, the opening problem has stopped. One other thing, once a door like that is down I need to hold the door latch handle in the open position and lean against the door with my leg to compress the gasket before I let go of the handle. Then I reach down and pull on each end of the door to assure that both latches are engaged. Often one or the other is not properly engaged. When both latches are engaged, I've not had a door come open.
One other thing. When I first got the unit the left front bay door didn't seem to close properly. Upon investigation I found that the previous owner had installed the shelf in that compartment. The shelf did not allow sufficient clearance for the door handle housing, thus the door had to be forced closed. There is now sufficient clearance and the door closes normally, latches correctly and stays closed.
Also I'm curious about the "cargo" that has been lost. Is there anything in the bays that is against against the doors when they are closed? Hope not, because if the doors are being impacted by items in the bays, it's possible that the latch rods are being moved, causing the latches to come open. Where possible I keep all my "cargo" in plastic storage boxes and I've never had one of them fall out after a door opened.
Hope this helps.
F329512
Livingston, Texas
2000 American Eagle
South Texas Renegades
#11
Posted 13 January 2013 - 01:57 PM
#12
Posted 13 January 2013 - 02:50 PM
Welcome to the Forum.
I had several break. The first was a booger. After the first I found the secret. The latch when closed goes over a bar at the bottom of the compartment. It is secured by two 5/16 nuts (7/8 wrench) one on either side. Now before your break, take a look to see if you have access to the nuts from the inside of the compartment or under the coach. I have access caps in the floor of my compartments and I was able to get my hand in with a wrench and remove the nuts. When you have removed both nuts you can then pull the door open and have access to the latch. I replaced mine before I found out about the metal latches. But I plan to purchase several to have just in case they break again.
Hope this helps.
Herman
Herman & Bobbie Mullins
McKinney, TEXAS
F302225
'02 Monaco Dynasty
40 ft 400 HP ISL
Chevrolet Silverado (M & G air brakes)
US Navy PR-3 1956 to 1964
Lone Star Chapter FMCA
Southcentral Lucky Rollers
Rally in The Pasture
#13
Posted 13 January 2013 - 06:41 PM
I replaced the latches which was pretty easy and then put spring nuts (or speed nuts) on the back side of the screws holding the brackets on. This tightened everything up and I don't have any more trouble. Hope you find a solution for yours.
Tom
2003 Discovery DP 38U
#14
Posted 13 January 2013 - 06:47 PM
My question is this to anyone who has that type latch, when you take the tongue assembly out will we loose the bar, (rod) that is attached to the center pull lever on the outside of the door? Will it fall down inside the door? I am assuming it is a rod or bar by the way it feels when using.
Adjusting tongues has already been done.
Should I start drilling rivets to get into the mechanism?
Thanks
#15
Posted 13 January 2013 - 07:22 PM
Herman
Herman & Bobbie Mullins
McKinney, TEXAS
F302225
'02 Monaco Dynasty
40 ft 400 HP ISL
Chevrolet Silverado (M & G air brakes)
US Navy PR-3 1956 to 1964
Lone Star Chapter FMCA
Southcentral Lucky Rollers
Rally in The Pasture
#16
Posted 13 January 2013 - 10:25 PM
You might give this link a look. many of the latches look like this. I have others but my files obviously need some organizing.
http://www.trimarkco...ntcategoryid=20
Rich
#17
Posted 19 January 2013 - 02:55 PM
In the first post the OP said one or two doors come open. The latches may have been miss located when they were installed and don’t have enough of the latch catching the structure so they come open when the body flexes.The thing is unless the latches are broken that alone would not cure the problem. The plastic ones will ware faster and this fact would lessen the sealing ability because of the additional play. that being the case would not explain the doors poping open.The metal latches are the same physical size and it would be a job and cost that in the end may verywell not solve the problem.
The only thing I can invision, is there has to be something out of spec. All of them acting the same way is just hard the get a grip on. I could under stand a number of them having a problen IF a side had been damaged at some point,,but even then that would reguire the entire length of one side. That would of been one big crunch.
I think we need to look at this from a different point of view.
Ok all the cargo doors pop open when on the road.
The latch pins should extend out and be about even with the edge of the cargo. that is as far as you can extend then and still open the doors with out catching on something else.
The catches should line up with center of the pins. An example--- IF the pin extends out 3/4in from it mounting and the latch is 1/2in. wide then there would be 1/8in. at the inside and 1/8in. on the outer end of the pin beyond the latch bracket. Granted this would be the perfect placement,but that never is going to happen in the real world. The more of the bracket the pin can extend under the better up to the point,where when you pull on the handel(s) to open the cargo door; they need to clear to alow it to open.
Each pin has a spring that forces it outward and when you pull the handel you compress the spring thus clearing the latch bracket. There are two latches per door and one could have a bad spring,but the other side will force its pin outward and the other pin will be forced out with it. If your door have only one pin and the spring is broken. Then vibration will work the pin out from under the latching bracket and pop goes the door. The problem is that if the door is locked, then the handel if in the down / in the travel position and locked it should stay closed.
I have no history of the coach and if a prior was like a gorilla, then all I can say all bets are off.
I do need to keep my latches tight and the pins lubed,along with the lock cylinders to keep things working.
Hope the thoughts help.
Bill
5.9 Cummins
Allison 3000MH tran.
Towing a Honda Civic on a Acmey tow dolley.
#18
Posted 28 January 2013 - 09:27 PM
I find that if I lock the bay doors before pulling out on the road I don't have a problem.
I too think it is a latch problem and locking seems to secure the latch.
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