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derh2o

Wax or Mop & Glow

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While visiting another forum, there was a discussion about using Mop & Glow instead of wax on the exterior of a MH. This seems much easier than wax and buff. Does anyone have an opinion on this?

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Interesting idea.

The primary difference is the UV effect on the clear coat and surface being exposed to materials that interior surfaces are not exposed to.

Do not know of any chemical reaction issues between Mop and Glow and fiberglass clear coats.

The chemicals in mop and glow, like acrylics will layer on the surface. Any residual wax or sealers on the surface could cause a peeling affect that could be unsightly over time an removing this layer could prove to be time consuming and costly.

The same issue comes up when applying a new clear coat to the fiberglass. If the surface is not properly cleaned and prepared, the clear coat will peel in areas.

The front of coaches are prone to the problem due to the exposure of bugs, fine sand / dust and stones that degrade the coating over time and products used to clean the area leave residues that need to be removed so clear coats will last.

Think in the long run I would stay with synthetic and / or natural waxes to keep the coach looking good.

Rich.

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I don't think I'd go with mop and glow.

There is (was) a product at Lowes RMP3 that is/was used. It has been replaced by a product called ZEP Wet Look at Home Depot (both products made from the same company and are identical). It is not wax by definition but an acryllic floor finish/sealer that shines.

There are three groups of people. Those that have used it and love it. Those that bad mouth the process but have never used it. And last, but not least, those that just grab some popcorn and watch the arguments and ponder using the process. The nay sayers can't seem to show any photographic evidence of problems with yellowing or cracking (minor issues due to poor prep work). I couldn't get anyone to provide a link to first person problems with pictures. When I asked I just heard a cricket chirping. They would only quote a third cousin's girlfriend's ex-father-in-law's meter reader's next door neighbor who "heard" about problems.

It is primarily used bt those with an older RV I think the Scamp people started it and have been doing it for years without issue. Google Red Max Pro 3 and you will find pretty detailed instructions and bantering. The prep work is key.

I am in the "has used it and love it" group. It took me an entire day to complete all the work. I did have the boss dipping & wringing the rags of RMP3 which saved a great deal of climbing up and down time. Almost a year later it looks the same as the day I put it on and it has been through midwest winter and desert sun.

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I agree 100%, RPM3 worked great.I have done the top of our front cap above the windshield. Its been 2 Years and still looks great. The prep work is the hardest part of the job, all the oxidation has to be taken off. I used bartenders friend, it worked the best for me (don't scrub the decals). The down side is you have to apply the RPM3 5-6 times.

But then you will have a really nice finish just like paint finish. If you are doubtful try it in a inconspicuous place on top of roof where nobody can see it.

The cost is minimal, about $ 20.00 or so.

Good luck & god bless.

old marine

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When I did mine I had not received the memo about not doing the decals. They bled a bit but when I did the TSP wash it came right off. They look like new as well. Except for the divots from being in the elements for 13 years. But I guess shiny & divots looks better than dull and divots.

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I used RMP-3 on my 16 year old Bounder about 10 months ago and it still looks great. I bought 10 gallons of it (2 5-gal jugs) during Lowe's close out for $4.99 each. I won't live long enough to use it all.

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