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House Batteries Cut-off Solonoid Gets Warm/hot When ''On''
Posted 16 November 2012 - 06:48 PM
Is this normal ??????????????
Every thing works fine,but don't want problems!
Thanks for any help.
Peter from Maine
Posted 16 November 2012 - 07:25 PM
Posted 17 November 2012 - 10:56 AM
Posted 17 November 2012 - 11:27 AM
Posted 17 November 2012 - 07:01 PM
Posted 18 November 2012 - 11:27 AM
The contacts are generally made of tungsten to handle high current loads.
The key to longer relay life (the ATS) is to reduce the load on them when plugging into shore power or starting the generators. This reduces the current surge on the contacts, less arching longer contact life.
The heat mentioned is from current load, you will see higher temperatures at them as the contacts degrade. Higher resistance at the contact points equal higher voltage drop at a given current load.
This is true for all coaches equipped with transfer switches, 30 amp or 50 amp service.
You might notice that your circuit breakers on the generators start to trip more often as the ATS contacts degrade, also might encounter an increase in the shore power panel breakers tripping when you turn them on after plugging in.
Posted 18 November 2012 - 01:32 PM
Thanks for the info. The coil or as I call it a solenoid, is controlled by a toggle switch by the entrance door up front. It says" battery cut out switch". It shuts almost everything down except the clocks and other small things. I don't think I'm talking about the auto transfer switch. It's a switch for convenience, by not having to shut the main switch.
Are we on the same page Rich?
Posted 19 November 2012 - 02:57 PM
The closest drawings I have are for a 03 Windsor, so things could be different.
The 12 volts is present at the relays and all the switch does is supply a momentary ground so it can change state.
Think you listed the part number and manufacture, (hands full at the time) if so could you re post that info. and I will check out there specifications and applications when the dust settles.
Posted 11 December 2012 - 08:29 PM
We have 2 main solenoids. The "boost" solenoid joins the 2 battery banks, ensuring everything is kept charged, and providing extra power when needed. The boost solenoid is triggered by the boost switch on the dash, as well as by the "BIRD" circuit which keeps the batteries charged under all conditions. The boost solenoid is in the battery compartment in our Knight, but is in the engine bay on some higher end Monaco's.
The other main solenoid on a Monaco is the "Salesman's switch" This one is on a circuit board on the front "run bay board", in the front drivers side basement bay, on the board where many of the DC fuses are.The "salesman's switch" solenoid is triggered by a switch on the panel just inside the front door. It controls the non-essential 12 volt stuff. Lighting and such. It does not control anything important. It won't shut off your fridge, or your furnace.
Unlike Fleetwoods and some others, neither of these are latching relays. They require a constant 12v to the coil, and they get hot. The salesman switch solenoid can be bypassed easily. Mine is and I'm good with that, as it serves no real purpose to me.
The boost solenoid is another story. This one needs to work well. With the BIRD circuit, it is energized more often than not ( many older monaco's had no bird, or different bird's that don't behave like mine) and that 100 amp Trombetta continuous duty relay gets really really hot. It get's kinda dirty and corroded inside too, I recently had to open mine up and clean it out. Restored normal operation in an hour, for zero dollars.
I kinda wish this thing had latching relays, like my old Pacearrow did. But its a Monaco, and that's how they are.
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