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Winter Camping Part II


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4 replies to this topic

#1 gmoreno

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Posted 20 November 2012 - 06:49 PM

Great information on the previous thread about winter camping. A related question I have - and not mentioned in the previous thread - is water hose hook-up to the pedestal.

I went to my local box store and purchased 30' of electrical, heated wire. My hope was to wrap my city water hose line with this heated wire so that I would have water on demand with good pressure coming from the pedestal. I have also seen advertised in CW that I can purchase a heated water hose and use this for winter camping. Is one method of keeping the city water hose line from freezing better than the other? Do I simply duck tape the heated line to my hose? Do I zip tie instead? The heated wire I purchased says it is "thermostatically" controlled, but I have not opened the package to further investigate this feature; set lower and upper limits of the unit to turn off and on, for example. I paid about $35 for this wire.

Finally, the elbow discharge in both holding tanks are heated. When I purchased my rig some two years ago, I asked that the dealer make it possible for me to use the rig during winter. The dealer placed a "heated, sponge-type pad" on both grey and black holding tanks discharge elbow joints, with each pad having their own "on/off" toggle switch. I intend to keep these switched in the "on" position for the duration of my one week excursion. Any concerns with leaving these switches in the "on" position 24/7? I live in Boston, and will be traveling to DC for Christmas. This will be my 1st winter excursion.

Any additional tid-bit information would be great.

Thanks everyone!
Rob
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2010 Damon Daybreak Bunkhouse V-10 35' Gas
2003 Toad, Land Rover Discovery

Blue Ox Base Plate, Falcon All-Terrain Tow Bar


#2 mrboyer

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Posted 21 November 2012 - 12:59 AM

You might want to consider getting the foam insulation that is used on air condioner lines. Very inexpensive at any big box store and come in different inside diameters. After you wrap your water line with the heat tape then wrap this foam insulation around all.
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#3 wingerphil

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Posted 22 November 2012 - 10:17 AM

I attached the heated wire to the hose with black electrical tape about every 2' or so. Then attached the foam pipe insulation purchased at the hardware store and comes in 4' lengths. I also used electrical tape on this about every 2' and then covered the joints where the 4' sections meet with duct tape.
I have used this set up in below 0 weather and the hose has never frozen up.

Phil
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#4 AndyShane

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Posted 22 November 2012 - 10:02 PM

We dealt with sub-zero weather by disconnecting the fresh water hose after filling the tank, placed a work light in the compartment that houses the water pump. I used a worklight in the plumbing bay and damaged the black water slide valve, so make sure it is secured to prevent movement. Halogen lamps work great, but need to be located a safe distance from plastic fixtures.
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2007 Beaver Patriot Thunder Winchester44 III C13 Caterpillar 525hp with Silverleaf system; using a Roadmaster 2000-1 to pull a Prius, or a CargoCraft Dragster with a Lexus IS250C inside.
Defected from iRV2 in March 2012 after that forum suffered an outbreak of political bullying; once again contributing there as RVNeophytes2 effective Feb 6, 2013.


#5 gmoreno

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Posted 23 November 2012 - 09:45 PM

Great advice so far fellas on how to wrap the heated wire around my water hose and then using the foam wrap to help keep the wire in place.

What I have not yet read was a reply to my second paragraph; should I leave the heat toggle switch in the "on" position 24/7? I'm not too concerned about draining house battery; I'll be plugged into the pedestal.

Thanks,
Rob
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2010 Damon Daybreak Bunkhouse V-10 35' Gas
2003 Toad, Land Rover Discovery

Blue Ox Base Plate, Falcon All-Terrain Tow Bar





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