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LED TV To Replace Original TV In Motorhome

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jleamont   

Anyone ever installed a digital converter onto an existing TV? I replaced the one in the front with a smart TV but the bedroom unit is rarely used on antenna, but when I am on the antenna it cannot pick up any channels (2001 TV). Due to It's odd shape and mounting replacing it would be a hard endeavor.

Sorry to hijack this thread but it's related.

Thanks,
Joe

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Anyone ever installed a digital converter onto an existing TV? I replace the one in the front with a smart tv but the bedroom unit is rarely used on antenna, but when I am on the antenna it cannot pick up any channels (2001 TV) due to It's odd shape and mounting replacing it would be a hard endevour.

Sorry to hijack this thread but it's related.

Thanks,

Joe

Until I just did this upgrade I had a digital converter connected to my old CRT Analog TV. Just left the TV on Ch 3 and tuned the channels with the converter. Simple install, coax from ANT in then coax to TV out. As long as you can connect the coaxes it should be simple.

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Joe you can not back feed the 12v booster through the converter to the antenna. It flow has to be antenna, booster, converter then TV. The good news is that the Winegard booster has two outlets. One for your smart TV and the other for your converter to your analog TV.

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jleamont   

Thanks guys, we have a Winegard splitter box to pick your input source in the front overhead where the rear TV connects and gets a signal via coax. I was hoping for something to connect there that would convert the signal and use the TV as always in the rear with its remote. Sounds like this will not work, I might have to rethink how often I am on the antenna and make a decision to ditch the old TV for a new one or to let it go.

Puff, do you think I have a lack of booster on the rear TV or a non digital TV problem?

The TV wiring in this coach between the surround sound, DVD, VHS, Splitter, Satellite system is a mess, and to make things worse each item is in a different spot, trying to trace wires turnes into a project. I have never used the satellite system nor do I know how it operates, when I have no signal or cable hookup we rought it.

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I'm not at all talking about the Winegard switch box with it's built in booster. What you would have to do is wire in the separate Winegard before the box. That booster should have one marked ant and two marked output. Hooked one output to the antenna in on the switch box. Hook the other to converter box and then directly to your rear TV.

Another option which is more simple if you have access to the rear of the back TV is to hook up the converter to the that TV.

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jleamont   

Puff, I could access the rear of the TV but only if it is removed. Connecting to the switch box would be much easier, since I have 120 and 12volt connections already there.

Thanks for the help.

Joe

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As I said above, my next project is to replace the crank up Winegard with a Winegard Rayzar Automatic Dome.

I was going to buy and have this installed at Camping World or maybe installed at my local RV Shop, as I am unsure about me actually putting the holes in the roof or worrying if I sealed the old holes good enough or if the unit is secure enough.

But, I am concerned that either place will not take all the specifics of the install and setup that I want. Has anyone ever tackled a job like this and if so, can you give me a sense of how difficult it might be?

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If you get a LED TV with a energy star label of $ 10 per year or less this will indicate it has "LED Backlighting" and uses very little AC watts.

I have a 32 inch class Seiki SE32HY LED TV and this plus a Blu-Ray player run great together on a small 150 Watt DC to AC inverter, that is off a 10 amp fuse on my load center, since the fuse never blows both are actually using well under 130 watts DC with both running.

I have it installed in my 2008 Itasca Cambria where the 27 inch Jensen 120 V TV used to be. It is taking the bumps and bounces of traveling just fine.

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The model I got, Insiginia NS-32D312NA15, is listed as $9 per year. And actually, when I did the replacement I saw they already had a 12vdc plug there, this TV has a 12vdc jack and it is even the same physical size, so I have the TV connected with that, so I can run the TV on the battery w/o using the inverter, if I ever want or need to.

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A FOLLOW-UP TO OUR INSTALL - FOR ANYONE WHO READS THIS THREAD AND MAY SEE THE SAME ISSUE.

As mentioned in prior posts, we replaced our original CRT Style with a larger LED Panel.  This TV works on 12vdc and I happened to have a connector in the TV Space with the correct size pin head on it.  So when I first mounted the TV I connected this and it worked on the house batteries. But ... over time I noticed that we'd get noise and the picture would get bad. Finally I took the original cord that came with this TV, regular 120vac plug, with an inline transformer and coming out of that 12vdc to plug into the TV.  After switching to this setup and of course, on inverter when not plugged into shore power or on the generator, my noise/distortion issue went away. So I gather when on the straight 12vdc from the coach, the TV was susceptible to variations in voltage causing the noise/distortion. So I just thought I'd pass this info along.

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5 hours ago, QuiGonJohn said:

A FOLLOW-UP TO OUR INSTALL - FOR ANYONE WHO READS THIS THREAD AND MAY SEE THE SAME ISSUE.

As mentioned in prior posts, we replaced our original CRT Style with a larger LED Panel.  This TV works on 12vdc and I happened to have a connector in the TV Space with the correct size pin head on it.  So when I first mounted the TV I connected this and it worked on the house batteries. But ... over time I noticed that we'd get noise and the picture would get bad. Finally I took the original cord that came with this TV, regular 120vac plug, with an inline transformer and coming out of that 12vdc to plug into the TV.  After switching to this setup and of course, on inverter when not plugged into shore power or on the generator, my noise/distortion issue went away. So I gather when on the straight 12vdc from the coach, the TV was susceptible to variations in voltage causing the noise/distortion. So I just thought I'd pass this info along.

Years ago I had a similar problem with interference on 12 volt.  I ran a dedicated 12 volt wire from the battery and it solved the problem.

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