Jump to content


Photo
- - - - -

Fresh Water Tank Vent - Position for Outside End

vent fresh water tank connections tank vents

  • Please log in to reply
17 replies to this topic

#1 Wallee

Wallee

    Member

  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 15 posts
  • Location:Coastal British Columbia Canada
  • I travel:With Pets

Posted 13 January 2013 - 09:38 PM

Hello everyone,

We just bought a 1995 Rexhall Aerbus 30 ft. After a new rad and hot water tank, its now in not bad shape.

OK, now my question or problem: The fresh water tank vent, I found that it is now connected to the drain, which has or had a screw plug in the drain.

 

Hmm, no wonder the tank almost flattened, or exploded, when been used ... NO clear vent for the air.

My question is where is a good spot for the outside end of the vent?


On the roof or on the side of the Aerbus way above the tank to stop splash over?

Right now it's right behind the back wheel, bad spot.


  • 0

#2 desertdeals69

desertdeals69

    Advanced Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 1,243 posts

Posted 13 January 2013 - 09:45 PM

Mine is through the compartment floor next to the tank.
  • 0

#3 wolfe10

wolfe10

    Advanced Member

  • Moderator, Super
  • PipPipPip
  • 3,751 posts
  • Location:League City, Texas

Posted 13 January 2013 - 10:44 PM

Wallee,

Welcome to the FMCA Forum.

The vent can either open ABOVE the full level of the tank OR you can install a siphon break and it can exit below the tank. Fairly common item on boats, as draining water when the engine is below the waterline faces the same issue.
  • 0

Dianne and Brett Wolfe
1997 Safari Sahara 3540
Moderator, FMCA.com Forums
Chairman, FMCA Technical Advisory Committee
Member, FMCA Long-Range and Development Committee 2007-2009
Moderator, http://www.dieselrvclub.org/(FMCA chapter)


#4 DickandLois

DickandLois

    Advanced Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 1,595 posts
  • Location:Where ever the wheels stop ?

Posted 14 January 2013 - 05:42 AM

Wallee, Check and see if there is a low spot in the filler line for the water tank, This loop can fill with water and block the free movement of air into the tank. Some fillers have a vent built into the side of the larger filler line. Kind of like the vent lines on fuel tank systems.

Rich.
  • 0

#5 Wallee

Wallee

    Member

  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 15 posts
  • Location:Coastal British Columbia Canada
  • I travel:With Pets

Posted 14 January 2013 - 02:37 PM

Thank, but what is there is a valve, only one, on the drain line before the vent but the vent has a screw in plug.

What I want to do is change the location of the vent line from the tank to somewhere higher then the wheel well and not have it conected to the drain line.

But thanks.
  • 0

#6 Wallee

Wallee

    Member

  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 15 posts
  • Location:Coastal British Columbia Canada
  • I travel:With Pets

Posted 14 January 2013 - 02:43 PM

Thanks Wolfe10, I never thought of a siphon lock.
  • 0

#7 mrboyer

mrboyer

    Advanced Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 351 posts
  • Location:Anderson, Indiana

Posted 14 January 2013 - 03:03 PM

SMC coaches on Magnum chassis had this problem. If you allowed the tank to fill to where water would overflow, siphoning would occur and drain 2/3 of the tank until the vaccum could overcome the siphon. Some added a tee and ran a line well up into the rear of the refrigerator compartment to be the vacuum breaker. Instead of doing this is probably the reason that a plug was added to your overflow.
  • 0

Ross & Melanie Boyer

2006 Fleetwood Expedition 37U

Cat C-7 300HP

Allison MH3000

 

 

 


#8 roadtrekrunner

roadtrekrunner

    Member

  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 10 posts

Posted 13 April 2013 - 08:10 AM

Regarding the fresh water tank, when not using the motorhome for a few weeks, should you completely fill the tank with fresh water, or leave it empty?  Do you ever add anything to the fresh water tank, I am just concerned about the water or tank sidewalls getting slimy or the water going bad.

 

Dan


  • 0

#9 wolfe10

wolfe10

    Advanced Member

  • Moderator, Super
  • PipPipPip
  • 3,751 posts
  • Location:League City, Texas

Posted 13 April 2013 - 08:18 AM

Dan,

 

Irrespective of whether it is left empty or full, when putting the motorhome back in service (where you want potable water) the tank should be SANITIZED. 

 

You will basically over-chlorinate the tank with bleach, then drain it and replace with potable water.


  • 0

Dianne and Brett Wolfe
1997 Safari Sahara 3540
Moderator, FMCA.com Forums
Chairman, FMCA Technical Advisory Committee
Member, FMCA Long-Range and Development Committee 2007-2009
Moderator, http://www.dieselrvclub.org/(FMCA chapter)


#10 roadtrekrunner

roadtrekrunner

    Member

  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 10 posts

Posted 13 April 2013 - 08:23 AM

Thanks.  What is the ratio of bleach used?


  • 0

#11 desertdeals69

desertdeals69

    Advanced Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 1,243 posts

Posted 13 April 2013 - 08:31 AM

Instead of bleach use hydrogen perioxide.  Cheaper and more effective and you can drink it!


  • 0

#12 DickandLois

DickandLois

    Advanced Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 1,595 posts
  • Location:Where ever the wheels stop ?

Posted 13 April 2013 - 08:59 AM

Dan, The general rule is 1/4 cup of bleach to 1 Gal of water. This mixture is used to get bleach into the tank. one gal of this mix will sanitize 15 gals of water in the tank. So if the tank holds 45 gals of water, add 3 Gals and fill the water tank. pump water through all the plumbing, Hot water tank, kitchen, bathroom, and any other lines. Let it set for 3 or 4 hrs then dump and flush the system with fresh water.

 

Rich.


  • 0

#13 cmturner

cmturner

    Newbie

  • Members
  • Pip
  • 6 posts
  • I travel:Full-time in my motorhome

Posted 13 April 2013 - 10:43 AM

Walmart carries the Camco brand water freshener in their RV section.  It's the same one I most often see at RV parts houses, but at a lower price.


  • 0

#14 roadtrekrunner

roadtrekrunner

    Member

  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 10 posts

Posted 13 April 2013 - 12:27 PM

Thank you all so very much for your much welcomed advice.


  • 0

#15 desertdeals69

desertdeals69

    Advanced Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 1,243 posts

Posted 13 April 2013 - 04:55 PM

I tried bleach to get rid of a smell in the rinser spray on the kitchen sink.  Several applications and the smell would come back in a day or so.  I was told about hydrogen peroxide so I tried it.  It's 88 cents a Wal Mart.  Works perfect and no smell a year later.  This treatment was brought up at a Newmar rally, a friend of mine told me about it. No flushing after it sits for a little while.  I talked to a water treatment engineer and he told me that they always use it.


  • 0

#16 Teapot

Teapot

    Newbie

  • Members
  • Pip
  • 2 posts

Posted 14 April 2013 - 05:34 PM

Do you use the hydrogen peroxide straight or do you dilute it?  what ratio?  We are trying to get rid of antifreeze taste in the fresh water lines of our coach.  We tried bleach mix but it still tastes BAD.  HELP!


  • 0

#17 desertdeals69

desertdeals69

    Advanced Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 1,243 posts

Posted 15 April 2013 - 09:54 AM

Do you use the hydrogen peroxide straight or do you dilute it?  what ratio?  We are trying to get rid of antifreeze taste in the fresh water lines of our coach.  We tried bleach mix but it still tastes BAD.  HELP!

I use a pint.  I pour it into the hose then connect to the faucet and turn on the pressure. With an empty tank I fill about 5 gallons.   Run each faucet in the coach for 15 seconds. Let it sit for 1/2 hour.  Just go ahead and use the water normally, no need to flush.


  • 0

#18 Teapot

Teapot

    Newbie

  • Members
  • Pip
  • 2 posts

Posted 16 April 2013 - 10:25 PM

Thank you desertdels69 for the reply.


  • 0




0 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users