14 replies to this topic

[gmoreno]

I have a 2003 Land Rover Discovery II, SE trim level that I plan to tow 4-wheels down. I will use an aux braking system (maybe RViBrake) and have seperate magnetic tow lights on the toad to plug in directly to the MH, 4 pin set-up. Here's my issue:

 

Owner's manual for the LR states that the ignition key be set to the second (II) position while being towed. Needless to say, there will be a battery drain upon arrival to my destination. Even if I used a jump-pack for the RVi Brake, I will still have a battery drain just by virtue of the iginition key being set to the II position. My preference would be not to wire anything into the Rover or pull fuses and such; mainly because I have an extended auto warranty on the Rover and if I tamper with the electrical system, my warranty could become null and void. 

 

 

Below is a quote from a Landrover website forum when I posted my quandary:

 

"If you do decide to go with battery disconnected, be sure that you have vehicle unlocked when you do that, plus take off the connection to the hood alarm switch. Reconnecting a battery to a Rover can make the alarm return to last known condition, if that was "armed" and hood is open, welcome to the immobilization hassle castle."

 

In sum, I'm thinking of somehow having the MH maintain power to the Rover, but haven't the foggiest of what I need to do to perform this task. Odds are, I'll probably leave this task to my local MH repair facility, but wanted feedback from the FMCA forum to hear everyone's two cents worth.

 

Thanks,

Rob

[WhiteEagle]

I purchased a separate 12V battery booster unit (can get any size you want) and use that to power the brake unit as we travel..sets on the passenger side floor ....just recharge it each night when we get to a shore power location... that way nothing drains the toad while being towed.

[gmoreno]

Thanks for the reply, but I fail to see how your solution addresses the toad battery from being discharged. Recall, that I am not so concerned with the RVi Brake being used in the toad, but more so that the ignition key will be turned to the "on" or "second" position, and thererfore, the battery will power many of the electronic components in the car and in turn, creating the battery drain.

 

Can you help me understand what you are trying to convey?

 

Thanks,

Rob

[wolfe10]

Rob,

 

Running a separate hot and ground from RV chassis battery to toad battery is likely the best solution, since your toad's parasitic loads are taking down the battery, not the auxiliary brake.

 

Fuse at both ends.  Best wiring is to use a relay at the chassis battery that is ignition triggered.  That way, your toad is automatically charged when the coach engine is running.  10 gauge wire would be great.  12 gauge probably adequate if all you need to do is maintain an already fully charged toad battery.

[gmoreno]

Brett...as always, you are spot on.

 

Just for clarification....Chasis battery or house batteries to keep a full charge on the rover?

 

Rob

[wolfe10]

I would use the chassis battery.  That is generally the battery that the regulator uses to determine charge rate and it is also much less likely that the chassis battery will be deeply discharged while dry camping.

[gmoreno]

Thanks for clarifying this for me.

 

Be lost without your expertise!

 

Rob

[gmoreno]

One last thing Brett.

 

 

Fuse at both ends is what you stated. I suspect my local RV repair facility might know what you are referring to. But could you elaborate here for me? Maybe even walk me through on how to attach the 10gauge wire to the toad?

 

Thanks,

Rob

[wolfe10]

Rob,

 

Since both batteries will be charged up, you need a fuse right at each battery, as any contact between the positive wire and either coach or toad chassis would be a dead short to ground.

 

You will have to decide if you want a separate two wire connector, or to upgrade your current 4 wire connector to a 6 or 7 wire connector (so that you will only have one connector to connect/disconnect).

 

And, having the relay that is ignition triggered means you don't have to disconnect the charge wire when camping-- it automatically disconnects when the coach engine is off.

[gmoreno]

Brett:

 

Thanks for tutor lesson.  

 

Rob

[WhiteEagle]

Certainly wiring the toad to the MH will take care of not running the toad battery down but... when using a battery booster unit to power the brake unit, the only parasitic drain from the toad battery should be the buzzer / chime if the doors are open ?? Maybe your towed is different..... In the Jeep, everything else is turned off when the key is in the required position so the battery lasts for days without an issue while being towed if the brake unit is powered by an auxiliary source.

[RoryTug]

http://www.bestconve...harge_c_125.htm

l use this product and am pleased with results

[OURTIME]

Would not hooking up a 10 gauge wire to the motorhome tow plug 12volt output to the towed battery positive terminal and disconnecting the plug when I stop for the night work to keep the battery charged while towing my 2005 ford explorer?

[wolfe10]

Ourtime,

 

Welcome to the FMCA Forum.

 

Yes, you would be doing manually what the relay does automatically.  And, since relays are only about $5, that is an easy solution.

[OURTIME]

Thanks so much for your help, I really appreciate it. However, I think I will splurge and buy a relay. Now that brings up another question, is the 12vdc pin on the plug installed by the manufacture on the back of my Monaco Knight being fed by the alternator from my engine to the chassis battery then to the plug? I hope I asked that right.