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Valve Stem Extensions


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#1 DWAYNECHERAMIE

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Posted 23 March 2013 - 07:23 PM

I've heard a lot about whether or not to use valve stem extensions for my rear inside tires,but knowing how important tire pressure is, wanting to add the extensions just to make it a little easier to check pressure since I do it pretty frequently.

 

Wanting input as far as what brand/type extension should I use?

 

Any recommendations??


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#2 WhiteEagle

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Posted 23 March 2013 - 07:55 PM

I went to a truck tire store and had them put in the correct metal rigid extensons on all rear tires . They handle thousands of tires every year and I followed their reccomendations ... Work great for my Pressure Pro sensors on them. 


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#3 desertdeals69

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Posted 23 March 2013 - 11:37 PM

Solid metal extentions are the best.  I would also have a TPMS system such a Tire Minder.  They work great.


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#4 ClayL

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Posted 24 March 2013 - 11:39 AM

If you have a Workhorse or Ford chassis I would get DuallyValve solid metal extensions.

 

They come with rubber grommets that fit in the handhold to provide support for the extension. This is really valuable if you have tire pressure sensors.



 


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#5 nitehawk

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Posted 24 March 2013 - 04:27 PM

The valve extensions that were on our coach when we bought the coach cost us over $650.00!!

The extensions were addons to the existing inside reqar valve stems. The added weight was enough to fatigue and crack the regular valve stems where the thread ends. Road service: $90. New tire, valve stem, and removal and replacement in our driveway: over $560.00

We now have one piece, longer valve stems on the inside duals, a long straight air chuck and air gage to reach in.

 

STAY AWAY FROM ADDING AN "EXTENSION"....One piece supported longer valve stems are OK.


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#6 WhiteEagle

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Posted 24 March 2013 - 05:47 PM

The solid extensions I had installed at Southside Tire cost me $5.00 each - installed..... have worked great for 4 years.


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#7 Tireman9

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Posted 25 March 2013 - 09:10 AM

General comment on extensions. When I was racing I towed with 1-Ton dually and had steel braided extensions. Ran about 78,000 miles with no problems. When I got my Class-C my first add-on was TPMS followed by steel braided extensions. With only 16,000 miles no problems.

 

Now there are TWO main things that I would consider a MUST. First you need bolt in metal valves. Second you need a hard attaching point on the outer end of the hose to prevent movement of the hoses. The hoses come in different lengths so you should run the shortest hoses that allow you to easily bolt the end down and you need to support the end of the hose when pushing on it with your tire gauge or air chuck.

 

I can only guess as to why a metal valve would fatigue as without significant movement of the hose there should not be enough to stress the valve stem. Metal valve stems should be replaced or at least have all the rubber O-rings and gaskets replaced whenever you change a tire. The rubber parts age just as the rubber on your tire ages. Replacing when you replace tires eliminates the need of keeping track of the age of the O-rings and seals. There is a rubber interior to the hose and this will also age so when I replace my tires I will get new hose extenders along with new valve rubber parts.

 

I have seen spring clips that are supposed to retain the steel braided hose but they don't look too solid to me. I have not looked at the rubber "grommet" that fits the hand holes but have to wonder if they hold the braided steel line solidly. Clearly they do not support the hose end so there will definitely be some movement.

 

You can see in my set-up that I have the hose firmly attached to my hub cap. I do hold the extender hose when ever using a gauge or air chuck.

209qedy.jpg


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#8 DWAYNECHERAMIE

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Posted 25 March 2013 - 06:50 PM

THANKS GUYS FOR ALL THE GOOD INFO.        DWAYNE


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#9 parmm

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Posted 21 April 2013 - 12:03 PM

I have Alcoa aluminum wheels.  The extensions on current 1994 coach were junk when I purchased it used.  I replaced them with solid extensions from Alcoa.  They have many different types and styles for their aluminum wheels.  You can see them at http://www.alcoa.com...ilizer_kits.asp  Do some searching on their site as they also have some other options such as different length valve stems. I figure that if Alcoa sells them for their wheels, they should be good enough for me.


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#10 woofer01

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Posted 22 April 2015 - 06:58 AM

Hmmm I am going to install this kit with my PressurePro TPMS

 

Anyone had  experience with Phoenix MAXAIR extenders?

(by the way I have metal valve stems)

 

AirMaxdiag.jpg    AirMaxInstalledinset.jpg


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#11 jleamont

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Posted 22 April 2015 - 01:39 PM

Woofer01,

 

I have-- those are a standard on most Ambulances on a Ford E450 or GMC 4500 Savanna chassis. While I have not experienced problems on those vehicles I did have them chafe on my wheel simulators on the Class C I used to own. The Ambulance only runs short distances while an RV runs long distances at highway speeds. My class C was a Ford chassis and it had the small holes in the wheels for those to pass through not like the photo above, which Ford changed to in the mid 2000's (2008 I believe).

 

I ended up sliding a rubber hose over the part where it came through the wheel and placing a wire tie to hold it in place, while driving the hoses would flex and bang against the simulator which caused two to fail on me. My TPMS system saved me both times.

 

The coach we have now I have solid extensions that utilize a rubber grommet on the outer wheel for support.


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#12 jlandon13399

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Posted 24 April 2015 - 03:19 PM

Tireman9,

My stainless steel braid valve extensions were leaking air from the rear outside tires. I went to a tire dealer and they installed new steel bolt-in valves, and a European design valve extension that is plastic with a rod down the middle. These extensions do not have air in them except when checking or filling the tires. I checked and found that these are DOT approved and seem to be a better design than the stainless braid.

Since you are a tire professional I would welcome your comments.
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#13 Casuall454

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Posted 25 April 2015 - 12:03 AM

I use "Catseyes" no batteries, "quick" visual yet allows for recheck using pressure gauge.

 

They do NOT alert drive to loss of tire pressure "blowout" while driving.

 

http://www.linkmfg.c...ducts/cats-eye/

 

The over riding theme is proper inflation and checking of pressure, coupled with proper maintenance of tires.

 

What has the greatest bearing on traction, handling and braking........ tires.

 

Happy motor coaching.


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#14 Tireman9

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Posted 27 April 2015 - 01:14 PM

Tireman9,

My stainless steel braid valve extensions were leaking air from the rear outside tires. I went to a tire dealer and they installed new steel bolt-in valves, and a European design valve extension that is plastic with a rod down the middle. These extensions do not have air in them except when checking or filling the tires. I checked and found that these are DOT approved and seem to be a better design than the stainless braid.

Since you are a tire professional I would welcome your comments.

 

I understand the two basic designs of hose extenders.

One is pressurized as it opens the valve core on the stem that is bolted through the wheel. This type can be used with an external TPM sensor at the outer end of the hose or with a "flow-thru" type TPM sensor attached to the bolt in valve and then the hose running out to allow air to be added to the tire.

The second system has a hose with a flexible "rod" on the inside which opens the valve core in the valve bolted to the wheel. This hose is not pressurized except when measuring tire pressure. BUT if you attach an external sensor to the outer end it must depress the "rod" and then pressurize the hose for the sensor to provide a reading. A "flow-thru" sensor could also be used with this system if it is placed on the valve stem with the non-pressurized hose connecting to the outer end of the flow thru sensor. Since this is the hose you have I believe you need to use flow-thru TPM sensors so this might limit your choices.

 

If properly installed I see no reason for either system to work  Now it is of course that either design could have detail features such as better quality hose or "O-Rings" or attaching points of hose to fittings but without doing detailed examination of specific product and possibly conduction some testing so I would not call one any "better" than the other.

 

RE "DOT Approved" While I have not done research on the specific question of hose extenders, I do understand the "DOT Approval" of tires.  This is a very common misunderstanding of how DOT works.

 

They write rules and regulations and test procedures to be used by a manufacturer when they want to certify a tire or other component as meeting DOT regulations. To my knowledge DOT does not approve specific products. It is the manufacturer who "certifies" that a product would pass all DOT test requirements, if it were tested.

 

For example, I have seen plastic brake light lenses with "DOT" on them. To me this is nothing more than an indication by the manufacturing company that the lens is "certified" by the manufacture to pass the appropriate DOT standards.


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Retired Tire Design and Quality Engineer (40 years experience).
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Retired Police Driving Instructor.
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Delivered Tire Seminar for RV owners & two seminars on Genealogy at FMCA Bowling Green 2009, Madison 2011,

Indy 2012, and Perry & Redmond 2014

I will be presenting two seminars on RV Tires & Three on Genealogy at Madison, WI  July 29 - Aug 1 2015

See my blog www.RVTireSafety.com and subscribe if you want notice of new posts.


#15 jlandon13399

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Posted 28 April 2015 - 10:16 AM

Tireman9,

Thank you for your reply. I appreciate the information given and am satisified with my choice of valve extensions.
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#16 ObedB

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Posted 29 April 2015 - 03:34 PM

IMHO. The tire shop that I use added extensions to the inside tires. A screw on with a cap. If you put the cap on with a little too much force getting the cap off will spin the extension loose or off when checking pressure. Their are metal flow through caps available where truck tires are sold. Don't like the plastic version. A tool available at truck stops can push on to a regular cap and easily spin it off if you want a cheaper cap. A quality gauge that has a straight in (not angled as on the cheapies) will be fine for pressure checks. I use the same straight in style for my air chuck that ***** and locks. Get inside, watch your gauge, hit the brake pedal to get the compressor to recycle and stay comfortable while you air'em up. Nice on a cold or rainy morning. Used that method when I sometimes had to air up 18 of them.
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#17 Tireman9

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Posted 04 May 2015 - 04:19 PM

Plastic caps are probably fine for passenger tire applications. Metal caps with soft rubber O-Ring gaskets also work fine for higher pressure applications.

 

The primary purpose of a cap is to keep dirt out of the valve core area. Too often people think that if they have an air leak just "cranking" down will stop the leak. Well tire valves do not work like water valves.

Over tightening the core will not stop a leak and most likely will make it worse by splitting the seal on the core.

 

Here is a post on why valves may leak.

 

Rubber valves are rated for applications less than 60 psi

 

Valves are not just little rubber things

 

Rubber seals in valve caps and around the bolt in valve stems get old and can leak which may lead to a tire failure.

 

If you have metal caps just finger tight (where you feel the seal contacting the stem) + 1/4 turn is plenty tight.

 

Caps are cheep. Get new ones whenever you change tires or maybe every 5 years.


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Retired Tire Design and Quality Engineer (40 years experience).
Retired Professional race car driver.
Retired Police Driving Instructor.
Member, FMCA Technical Advisory Committee
Delivered Tire Seminar for RV owners & two seminars on Genealogy at FMCA Bowling Green 2009, Madison 2011,

Indy 2012, and Perry & Redmond 2014

I will be presenting two seminars on RV Tires & Three on Genealogy at Madison, WI  July 29 - Aug 1 2015

See my blog www.RVTireSafety.com and subscribe if you want notice of new posts.


#18 royclem

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Posted 20 June 2015 - 07:42 AM

I have a Class C RV Ford E350 super Duty with 16" wheels, I called my local truck tire shop and they told me that the rigid long stem valves (Brass) won't fit my tires I'd have to find  some that do. I find this hard to believe. I remember a long time ago I worked at a shop that did tires and seen them use truck valve stems on a 16" E350 before.

 

Does anyone know if this is true and if so where could I get the correct valve stems for my inner dual's I would like to use the rigid ones that bolt on the rim?


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#19 Wayne77590

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Posted 20 June 2015 - 10:46 AM

Although this thread is mainly devoted to RV's let us not forget our TOADS.  I recently purchased a new TPMS. My TOAD has "vogue" wheels and low profile tires. (Think 2013 Lincoln MKX with 22" wheels.)  Like others, my concern is for tire information when towing behind the MH.  The MKX comes with built in tire sensors and to remove them would cause the dash warning light to be on constantly.  The valves in the MKX were the rubber base snap in. I did not want to put a sensor on it that could vibrate and cause a shift in the rubber base, or worse. Also, the TPMS Sensor stuck out about 3/4" past the tire. Not good if a curb is encountered.

 

I could not find a 90˚ stem to circumvent that problem. The stem I found would not traverse the hole bend in the chrome wheel.  I ordered new tires from Discount Tire and a very knowledgeable person worked with me to try and find a solution.  He disappeared for a while and came back with four Schrader 34000 valve stems that accept my built in sensors. These are metal, fit in the hole and the sensors now do not thrust out but to the edge of the tire. I'll still have to be careful but it is doable.  There are other valve stems for the different kind of built in sensors.

 

If I could put a 90˚ short valve extension on the present valve stem it would reduce the sticking out part completely.

 

Tierman 9, any thoughts on putting a 90˚ extension on a valve stem and a TPMS Sensor on the end?

 

Thanks.

 

For the MH, I also purchased the Dually Valves mentioned earlier.  New tires will be installed with the stems sometime this week.


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#20 Tireman9

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Posted 20 June 2015 - 06:52 PM

Although this thread is mainly devoted to RV's let us not forget our TOADS.  I recently purchased a new TPMS. My TOAD has "vogue" wheels and low profile tires. (Think 2013 Lincoln MKX with 22" wheels.)  Like others, my concern is for tire information when towing behind the MH.  The MKX comes with built in tire sensors and to remove them would cause the dash warning light to be on constantly.  The valves in the MKX were the rubber base snap in. I did not want to put a sensor on it that could vibrate and cause a shift in the rubber base, or worse. Also, the TPMS Sensor stuck out about 3/4" past the tire. Not good if a curb is encountered.

 

I could not find a 90˚ stem to circumvent that problem. The stem I found would not traverse the hole bend in the chrome wheel.  I ordered new tires from Discount Tire and a very knowledgeable person worked with me to try and find a solution.  He disappeared for a while and came back with four Schrader 34000 valve stems that accept my built in sensors. These are metal, fit in the hole and the sensors now do not thrust out but to the edge of the tire. I'll still have to be careful but it is doable.  There are other valve stems for the different kind of built in sensors.

 

If I could put a 90˚ short valve extension on the present valve stem it would reduce the sticking out part completely.

 

Tierman 9, any thoughts on putting a 90˚ extension on a valve stem and a TPMS Sensor on the end?

 

Thanks.

 

For the MH, I also purchased the Dually Valves mentioned earlier.  New tires will be installed with the stems sometime this week.

 

Wayne, Some of the newer OE TPMS sensors have what appears to be a "snap-in" rubber valve but in fact there is a solid brass core. If you press lightly sideways on the end of the stem I think you will see that the stem does not bend. This type of valve sensor looks like this.

23ucsbs.jpg

 

 

The original aluminum design sensors were bolt in which took time ($$$) to install so there was a concerted effort

svgz0k.jpg

I think if you contact your local Ford dealer and ask for a price on a replacement valve stem. if the price is in the $40 to $80 range then you definately do not have a standard rubber stem and should not worry about installing an aftermarket "cap" style sensor.

 

RE 90 degree fitting. Not aware of this type of fitting that will solve your clearance issue. This is one of the down sides to the "Big Wheel" look that comes on many image vehicles today.

.


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Retired Tire Design and Quality Engineer (40 years experience).
Retired Professional race car driver.
Retired Police Driving Instructor.
Member, FMCA Technical Advisory Committee
Delivered Tire Seminar for RV owners & two seminars on Genealogy at FMCA Bowling Green 2009, Madison 2011,

Indy 2012, and Perry & Redmond 2014

I will be presenting two seminars on RV Tires & Three on Genealogy at Madison, WI  July 29 - Aug 1 2015

See my blog www.RVTireSafety.com and subscribe if you want notice of new posts.





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