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RV Products Roof Mounted A/C


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6 replies to this topic

#1 boguslaw

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Posted 30 March 2013 - 09:18 PM

I have a pair of these roof mounted units, like most, and the front can deliver a 30 deg temp drop while drawing 11 amps, the rear can only drop the air temp by 10 deg and will only draw 5.2A. I took it to a place and they said I need a new compressor and if so, change out the whole unit.

 

I'm guessing they are right but just wanted a second opinion. It seems odd that it works, partially, but needs a new compressor. Is there a loading valve that isn't operating correctly(it may be integral to the compressor and the prognosis is the same). I had the cover off and it looks brand new so I hate to replace it but if that's the answer....

 

It's a RV Products model 9024, the low profile with the external fan.

 

Someone please tell me if I should toss this unit for another or if there is a possibility to saving it.

 

 

Jim Boguslaw

Country Coach Tribute 2007


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#2 desertdeals69

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Posted 30 March 2013 - 09:26 PM

It maybe low on freon.  Did you check the voltage while it was running?


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#3 Erniee

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Posted 31 March 2013 - 07:13 AM

We were looking at the amp draw on  a unit just installed on my coach. At full cold- draws the 11 amps, even with the heater. At fan mode- just below 5- your thermostat doesn't seem to be wanting your compressor to engage.


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Ernie Ekberg
Bluebird Wanderlodge- 43

Weatherford, Tx


#4 desertdeals69

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Posted 31 March 2013 - 05:35 PM

We were looking at the amp draw on  a unit just installed on my coach. At full cold- draws the 11 amps, even with the heater. At fan mode- just below 5- your thermostat doesn't seem to be wanting your compressor to engage.

I would think the compressor is running because there is a temp difference of 10 degrees.  If the compressor was not energized the air would be about the same going in as coming out.


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#5 cwschnepf

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Posted 16 April 2013 - 02:26 PM

There are alot of factors that affect the temperature drop across a cooling coil. Humidity is the big one.  Air fllow is critical and the sheet metal needs to be installed correct and use a sealant tape between the sheet metal joints.  Being the refrigerant system has welded connectins I would not expect you to be low on refrigerant.  Most coils are designed for a ten or twenty degree drop.  The air coming off the condernsor should be twenty degrees above the ambient temperature.  That is how old timers use to charge a system.  Today charging requires a thermometer and pressure gage.  Then you set it up by super heat.  I would recommend a second repair shop.  Some residential servicemen will service it for you.  R.S.E.S. certifications are a good way to sort out serviice men.  (Refrigeration Servce Engineers Society)


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#6 Gary1945

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Posted 17 April 2013 - 11:24 AM

 What is the ballpark cost of replacing a roof unit?


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#7 boguslaw

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Posted 10 May 2013 - 10:17 PM

As a followup, I took it to Premier MotorCoach in Tucson who said it needed a compressor, therefore the whole unit should be replaced as it is not cost effective to replace a compressor. I bought one on line from PPL Motorhomes in Houston for $812 plus $175 shipping and installed it myself in a few hours. I don't know what a motorhome service place would charge.


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