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Toad Charge Disconnect, Wiring

charging towed car dinghy batteries

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#1 gmoreno

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Posted 25 June 2013 - 06:11 AM

So I have almost completed the install for a product labeled toad charge. I'd like to get some advice about the best and easiest way to set up a quick disconnect from the motorhome to the toad vehicle. In reality, I probably only need on disconnect point; from the toad. I'm thinking pig tail (if such a product exists) so that the toad wire can recoil back to the motorhome for easier storage. The wiring that came from the vendor is a 12 AWG, two strand, shielded "audio cable."

 

Finally, how much wiring is enough length necessary between both vehicles to allow for up/down movement and side-to-side turns? 6, 7 or 8 feet?

 

The other input I hope to receive is to determine if I should encase the wire that runs from the motorhome to the toad to protect the wire from road debris and weather. I have a Falcon All Terrain Tow Bar and located on each tow bar arm is a welded sleeve in which safety cables and such can pass through; to protect any wiring and to overall, keep cables somewhat neat and organized.

 

The link below displays the specific toad charger I purchased, but from a different vendor.   http://www.rvpowersu.../toadcharge.htm

 

Thanks, Rob


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2010 Damon Daybreak Bunkhouse V-10 35' Gas
2003 Toad, Land Rover Discovery

Blue Ox Base Plate, Falcon All-Terrain Tow Bar


#2 RSchleder

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Posted 25 June 2013 - 07:26 AM

I installed this system several months ago and it works perfectly. I actually made a "pigtail" that plugs into a mating connector at the electrical connection point on both the toad and the MH( be sure to put electrical tape around the connections you attached to each end of the pigtail (where the wire enters the connector to keep water out). I have actually placed/attached the pigtail to the spiral cord that operates the lights on the toad that runs between the MH and the toad. Leave plenty of slack wire available so as the spiral cord stretches out during connecting/disconnect you don't damage the pigtail or put undue pressure on the connectors. Use plastic zip ties to attach the pigtail to the spiral cord ( or non-spril cord as the case may be). Also zip tie the mating connectors on the toad and motorhome so they are secure and easily accessible. It's a pretty easy install-- just treat the connectors provided with care as they are not too "hardy". I did not use any additional sleeving or coating over the wires I made the pigtail out of, not a bad idea but it's a personal choice-can't hurt anything if you decide to do it. To make the pigtail, I simply used the extra wire supplied in the kit. I also tend to wrap electrical tape around the connectors after mating them to the toad/MH for travel as they are not water proof.

I mounted the actual TOAD CHARGER unit under the hood of my toad (2007 Mini Cooper S) where it's clean and dry and it has functioned just fine. Suggest you consider the same as I don't think the unit would be too reliable over the long term if it were exposed for thousands of miles under the MH or toad where it can get wet and grubby. WATER is your enemy here so keep that in mind as you think through the install. Good luck--hope this helps a bit!


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#3 fad847

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Posted 25 June 2013 - 07:51 AM

I also installed the TOAD CHARGE System and wrapped the connector wire through and around the light cable and secured it with plastic ties. It stretches and recoils as needed. The circuit breaker end is mounted near the house batteries and connected to the house batteries. The charge module I mounted under the hood of my 2011 CRV  in plain site near the battery and it works great.


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#4 jrwitt

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Posted 25 June 2013 - 07:55 AM

Rob, do you need to run a separate cable from the motorhome to the dinghy? If your motorhome has a 7-pin connector at the back, there may be an unused wire that can be put into service for your application. Pin 4 on the motorhome's connector may already be supplying 12V to the cable and pin 1 should already be wired as the ground. This way you would not need an additional wire to connect and disconnect each time you tow your dinghy. You will need to verify that the wire gauge in the cable between the motorhome and the dinghy is adequate (10/12 gauge). It is not uncommon for 7-pin cables/connectors to have unused circuits already there that can be used for this type of installation. Google "motorhome 7-pin connector" to find wiring diagrams for both the male and female connectors.


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#5 gmoreno

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Posted 25 June 2013 - 04:41 PM

Thanks everyone for your replies.

 

I'm going for pigtails and I found a nice hiding spot for the dingy; in an enclosed battery compartment (towing a 2003 Landrover Discovery II). Should be comfy and dry in there and therefore, the toad controller should be away from water and other hazards. To find a nice comfy dry area in the hood of the MH is not as easy for the other controller. I will be using the chassis battery and not the house batteries for this set-up and the chassis battery area can get a little wet. Oh well....we'll see.

 

Thanks,

Rob


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2010 Damon Daybreak Bunkhouse V-10 35' Gas
2003 Toad, Land Rover Discovery

Blue Ox Base Plate, Falcon All-Terrain Tow Bar


#6 desertdeals69

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Posted 25 June 2013 - 09:32 PM

You might be able to get away with a 6 pin plug if you have stop and turn in the same bulb.


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#7 RoryTug

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Posted 26 June 2013 - 11:24 AM

Love My Toad Charge!  I made the connection from Coach to Dingy by running their cable through the spiral 6 pin tow wire harness and zip-tying the cable at each end, leaving sufficient excess on the coach, dingy and cable to make the connection.  This has resulted in a one piece set up that is easy on and off.  I left about 6 inches of cable on each so when I am not towing, the dingy cable tucks up into the grill.  This was easy when done with the dingy hooked up to estimate length and they supplied the wires and connectors.


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