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Air Compressor Issue

Air and power steering

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#1 DickandLois

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Posted 14 October 2013 - 08:44 AM

Well, A new issue has presented its self.

 

Upon returning home from our last outing it was time for the yearly oil and filter changes. When I crawled under the coach, a spot of oil was spotted and upon a closer look, oil was leaking from the air compressor casting, not the seal area(s). I say seal areas because the power steering pump is mounted and driven by the compressor.

 

I did go ahead and change the oil and filters and have been keeping an eye on that leak. The leak is getting a little greater as I drilled into the web for a replacement and the other parts required to complete the job. Some of the parts appeared not to be the common over the counter items. LOL

 

Now, it is tight in there, with the need to remove some water cooling hoses, air compressor governor and the power steering pump before attempting to remove the compressor.

 

The big issue for me now is the best way to approach this one, do I attempt it at home with out the aid of a lift and outdoors with the first signs of winter or get it done at a service location I use for much of the involved work I no longer wish to attempt when the weather is on the cold side.

 

My main concern is driving the distance required to the service center and hoping that the leak does not become catastrophic, with a large loss of oil and total pump failure. Resulting in no air pressure, loose of power steering and the need to have the coach towed.

 

Kind of between the proverbial rock and a hard place at the time.

 

Rich.   


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#2 wolfe10

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Posted 14 October 2013 - 09:04 AM

Rich,

 

What engine?

 

Any pictures of the leaking component?

 

Most air compressors share an oil supply with the engine-- does yours (oil will be the same black as the engine)?  If so, you have a pretty large quantity of oil. 

 

If you are going to drive, consider wrapping a large "diaper" around the leaking component so you won't get oil all over the back of the rig/toad.

 

Stop after 5 miles, let engine off for 10 minutes and check oil level.  If little drop, go a little further this time.

 

I did just that this summer when a high pressure switch for my parking brake started leaking badly-- in the middle of nowhere.  We were only 110 miles from our destination.  Stopped 4 times along the way to change the "diaper" and add fluid.

 

Replaced the switch at our leisure.


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#3 DickandLois

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Posted 14 October 2013 - 09:11 AM

Brett,

 

Engine is a Cummins  ISB.

 

Regarding the pictures, I have some but, at my limit for attaching them to a thread at the time.

 

Wrapping the pump is a good idea. Will have to look at the thing again to see how to attach them around the bottom area only. Might be a good use of some depends that where left over from a time they where needed.

 

 

Rich.


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#4 huffypuff

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Posted 14 October 2013 - 09:44 AM

There is an oil pressure line connected to the air compressor.  Sometimes it is run between the engine block and the compressor and it could be that line leaking instead.   


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#5 DickandLois

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Posted 14 October 2013 - 11:57 AM

Thanks Ray, I wish that is what it was, cleaned and pressure washed the area. Then let it set for a few days. The line stayed dry, but the casting is dripping out a rust hole in the bottom.

 

Rich.


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#6 DickandLois

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Posted 14 October 2013 - 05:28 PM

Its well after 5:00 and no returned calls from any of the dealers, regarding my question of whether I should drive the coach or not with the oil leak that appeared in may air compressors main casting. LOL

 

Rich.


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#7 DickandLois

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Posted 19 October 2013 - 08:09 AM

Well, after driving the coach to a dealer, Brett! depends work well to keep the oil contained, but it is a wee bit tight to get it wrapped.

  I got some feedback regarding the air compressor replacement, after having it looked at.

 

Because of the tight area the compressor is located, I got a price for labor only and it kind of buckled my knees. With the cost of parts and labor it was close to $ 3000.00. One gets the feeling that its not a job they want to do.

 

So I'm going to keep looking or see if one of my contacts has a hole in there shop that I could us for a few days the tackle the thing.

 

Will start to spray the bolts with some penetrating oil and loosen things up on my own in the meantime.

 

Rich.


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#8 huffypuff

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Posted 19 October 2013 - 10:32 PM

If it's a Cummins diesel pusher you properly best working from underneath and bring it straight down.  Remove power steering pump first and hopefully the hoses will allow you to swing it out of the way and tie it off.  Next remove the hoses and governor from compressor to get them out of the way.  Remove the top bolt to from the compressor first then keep a hand pushing up on it as you remove the bottom bolt.  Next you will bench press it down out of there.  Good luck.


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At Redmond, OR

 

 

Ray & Hana Huffman

2006 Holiday Rambler, Ambassador PLQ 40' 10" 

2006 Jeep Liberty Limited CRD used as toad

2012 Cadillac SRX4

1976 Cadillac Coupe deVille

2009 7,000 lbs Carhauler Trailer

Pacers Northwest Member


#9 DickandLois

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Posted 20 October 2013 - 06:24 AM

Thanks Ray!

 

That sure looks like the way it needs to be removed. The clearance between the frame rail and engine is 6 an 1/4 in. that is the tight spot !!! Well, along with getting ones hands, arm and a wench into the space. :wacko: 

 

Thinking that I would need to drain the power steering reservoir, remove the low pressure line and hope that the high side line will move enough so the power steering pump clear the air compressor like you mentioned.

 

There is one cooling line that runs under the area, so that water line will need to be removed.

 

The high pressure oil feed line connectors are rusted and they are in a  tight spot. That line needs to be removed.

 

The air in and out lines need to be removed from the top area  of the compressor also.

 

Then hopefully the pump can be pulled back enough to clear the drive gear.

 

The only other item that could be an issue is getting the top of the compressor to clear as it drops down between the engine block and frame rail.

 

Just hope that I can find an inside space to work on it, as its already getting on the cool to cold side this far north.

 

I do have one more shop that will look at it an give me a price. Hopefully I can get it in this coming week.

 

Then I need to order a pump, as they are rebuilt only on request and not a stock item at the time. LOL

 

Rich.


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#10 huffypuff

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Posted 20 October 2013 - 11:04 PM

I wish you best of luck with it.  I would help you if you were in my area.  


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At Redmond, OR

 

 

Ray & Hana Huffman

2006 Holiday Rambler, Ambassador PLQ 40' 10" 

2006 Jeep Liberty Limited CRD used as toad

2012 Cadillac SRX4

1976 Cadillac Coupe deVille

2009 7,000 lbs Carhauler Trailer

Pacers Northwest Member


#11 DickandLois

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Posted 14 April 2014 - 08:53 PM

Our OEM air compressor is now operational!  I was sure that there was no way to make a good repair. Then last month during a nasty winter blow, I went back on the internet to do some serious shopping for parts and a service center.

 

Shop listed by Cummins was 20 miles from the house. A small independent with good reviews.

Called and explained my problem and what options where available.

VERY big surprise, OH, no big deal have repaired an number of them. Can do it where is sets.

 

Now this has to be interesting, So today he arrived with a part in hand, costing about 25.00. Crawled under the coach removed a cover for lack of a better word. cleaned things up. Put some sealant on the thing, hammered it into place( no easy task) and said start the engine and lets see how things look.

 

No leak.

 

Done a number of them and only on motor coaches. We have the part made up by one of the companies that rebuilds compressors for us. Asked about getting one as a spare, do not think so really if this last as long as the original setup thinking its not going to be an issue.

The service call was a lot less then replacing everything and the pump looks like new.

 

All in all a very good day and 78deg.  Tomorrow night its going to snow again, but the coach can now leave the pad !!!

 

Rich.


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#12 wolfe10

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Posted 14 April 2014 - 09:38 PM

So, Rich, exactly what was leaking (first post said compressor casting) and what part did they replace?

 

Was it between engine and air compressor? Air compressor part? Air compressor to power steering pump?


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#13 DickandLois

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Posted 14 April 2014 - 10:15 PM

Brett.

They replaced a access portion / disk of the lower casting is the only way I can describe it. The new part looked a little larger then the OEM one. Had a wide shoulder, that covers the casting area next to that opening. when it is driven in to the opening, with a sealant placed between it and the casting shoulder / opening. The material looks to be a heavier gauge. It basically seals the location that rusted out by covering the opening in the casting and the lip covers the shoulder that has a grove to hold the OEM part.

 

He was working under there so I did not get any pictures.

 

Think one could describe it as a modified OEM part. Sure looks like it will keep things sealed. The owners son said they have not had one leak that they are aware of going back about 10 years and the only compressors that have had the problem are the ones on motor coaches.

He thinks its just the location and the way the engine is mounted backwards, exposing the area to more road dirt and salt spray.

 

Rich.


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#14 Planocat

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Posted 15 April 2014 - 02:53 AM

Rich:

Sure would be nice to share the name/location of such a competent Cummins repair facility. Don't know where you are located.
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#15 hermanmullins

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Posted 15 April 2014 - 06:19 AM

Planocat,

We have several shops in this area that does excellent work. Blue Moon in Carrolton, National Indoors Storage and RV Repair in Lewisville, and you might also try Danny's RV Repair in Denton. North Texas RV Repair in Denton out on West 380 is know for their Body work.

 

Hope this helps.

 

Herman


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#16 DickandLois

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Posted 15 April 2014 - 06:20 AM

Planocat, The Shop is located in up state NY.  Near Rochester.

 

Jack's Repair Service, Scottsville, 585-538-2399.

 

Jack Sr. is semiretired and Jack Jr. is the ramrod now. 

 

They do have a website with some additional information.

 

24 Hr. road service.

 

Rich.


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#17 Elkhartjim

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Posted 15 April 2014 - 07:59 AM

Would it be possible to have a recommended/preferred repair centers listing someplace on the FMCA site? 

 

Glad you got your oil leak fixed and relatively painlessly, Rich.


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#18 hermanmullins

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Posted 15 April 2014 - 11:14 AM

Jim, that might be good except that it would be advertising with no cost to the shop/dealer. It is my thought that word of mouth as well as posting your recommendations on the Readers Forum that is in the magazine each month would be a better way for your to pass on your good experiences.

 

Herman 


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"Fair winds and Following Seas"

Herman & Bobbie Mullins, F302225
Whitewright, TEXAS
'02 Monaco Dynasty, 40-foot 400 HP ISL
Chevrolet Silverado (M & G air brakes)
U.S. Navy PR-3 1956 to 1964

Southern Region Vice President for Six-State Rally Association
Lone Star Chapter FMCA Past President
South Central Lucky Rollers
Rally in The Pasture


#19 Elkhartjim

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Posted 15 April 2014 - 12:54 PM

I understand, Herman.  My problem would be if I'm in Timbucctoo and need a shop, how would I ever wade through hundreds if not thousands of posts to find a shop in that area and I couldn't possibly keep years of FMCA magazines with me for reference or spends weeks thumbing through them.  I see some of the FMCA commercial members listed on this website and in the magazine that I would not want touching my motorhome.  Interestlingy, ACC Warranty Group is the very first one listed in the commercial members area and there was a recent thread discussing how poorly they were at handling claims.  In my opinion, just because you pay to advertise with a group, organization, etc, doesn't mean your good, reputable, etc.

 

I don't necessarily agree its free advertising for the shops that you and Rich recommended, just good information.  Now it would be completely different if a shop is touting itself as being good. I seriously doubt if I'm through Dallas or upsate New York next year (or next month) and needed service would I ever remember who or where or if a recommendation was ever made.

 

It was just a suggestion for an added benefit of being a member of FMCA.

 

Thanks for your response,Herman.


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Jim S
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