ArtCon

Residential Refrigerators

31 posts in this topic

Awhile back there was an article about the instillation of a residential unit in a (1998-1999) Holiday Rambler Endeavor diesel.

The unit being replaced was a 4 door Norcold, model 1200 or 1210. With, I think a Samsung; model?

Does any one know where I might find this information? I have tried the search menu with no result.

This information was in a FMCA magazine.

Thank you,

Art

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I think you will find that it was a Samsung RF197. There are 3 more letters that designate the color. I have installed one in a 2006 Fleetwood Expedition and will never go back. We have had it in service for about 10 months with wonderful service. Frig hold 37 degrees an freezer -2. Ice cream so hard, we have to heat in microwave for 30-45 seconds to be able to dip. We were luck to not have to pour out "ice cream" with the Norcold.

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http://www.fmcmagazine.com/back-issues/2012/july/7074-installing-a-residential-refrigerator-in-a-motorhome

The July 2012 issue of Family Motor Coaching included an article titled “Installing A Residential Refrigerator In A Motorhome” (page 50), which provides step-by-step instructions for replacing an existing RV refrigerator with a residential model. An inverter would make it possible to operate the refrigerator while traveling. The article appears in the Back Issues section at FMCmagazine.com. You will need to establish an FMCA member sign-in account to access the article.

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The thing to watch for in a residential refrig is that the motor will tolerate the modified square wave generated by many inverters. The Samsung is one that will.

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I installed a Samsung 20.1 cf 3 door with freezer on the bottom 2.5 years ago in my coach. I use an inverter while traveling, and it performs without a hiccup.

The Samsung brand was chosen because it has a max draw of 3.9 amps, only one with less draw at the time was LG, at 3.5 amp max draw.

Samsung has features that we like better, and incidentally the icemaker works even on the fresh water pump.

Kay

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This question may sound like a criticism, but I'm just asking to learn, why have you chosen a residential refrigerator over the RV one? I would think he residential one would limit the amount of time you could spend boondocking and camping without hookups.

What are the benifits?

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The benefit for us was that the Norcold died and the residential was a fraction of what a replacement Norcold or other RV frig would have been. Norcolds have a habit of dying. When we had it replaced there was a Norcold graveyard with 5 Norcolds.

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I have a Magtag fridge in my 2012 Journey. Works great.

Will run more than 24 hours on inverter power (pure sine wave)

Would not go back to RV fridge

I think it pull less power than the Norcold.

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I have a large enough battery bank, and solar cells that I can easily boondock 3 days without starting generator to recharge.

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Residential Refers are not known to burn down RV's! :mellow:

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The advantage of a residential fridge are many. My GE Profile has ice and water through the door, 20+CF of storage, never needs defrosting and will never cause a fire. Oh, yeah, it's also the only way the DW would full time! I used to spend 2 weeks dry camping in Quartzsite in the Winter and I had to run the genset for a while in the morning and evening. That costs less than a campground and the genset could use the exercise anyway!

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Ok, we looked at a new Fleetwood Class A, it had a residential unit from the factory, it ran off the invertor. Seemed like a smart thing to do. We purchased a used Class A with a Norcold 1200 series, of coarse it only works on A/C, (im impressed it worked at all at 12yrs old) I ordered a new burner and i am thinking of tossing it in the trash since it has out lived most Norcolds being 12 yrs old. Maybe a Dometic I would reconsider but thats $3000.00 away, not going to happen.

Our new/used coach has an invertor built in, as soon as i figure out how to use it throught the RC7 GS controller I will be set to switch over. Plus it has an auto generator start to replenish the batteries if needed, so I feel good about that.

My question is what trimming did you have to do to fit the standard fridge into the RV hole in the wall?

Do they make a direct replacement for specific sizes?

What about the hole in the outside wall will it help or hurt?

the interior of the coach is very nice, I do not want the fridge to look out of place.

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The most common replacement unit is a Samsung 197. It will fit side to side but requires an additional 6" of vertical clearance.

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Thank you for the advice, I have a strong feeling this will come sooner than I would like it too. I only have the Vacuum system located under the frige now and there is a lot of room above it.

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Keeping the fridge low is better especially if you need to reach something on the top shelf! Be sure you know exactly how high things will be before you start cutting wood (not wind, wood!)

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Keeping the fridge low is better especially if you need to reach something on the top shelf! Be sure you know exactly how high things will be before you start cutting wood (not wind, wood!)

Unless you're tall like me. When we built our new s&b home, we built the kitchen and master bath counters 2" taller than standard height and raised the dishwasher 12" off the floor.

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Ok, we looked at a new Fleetwood Class A, it had a residential unit from the factory, it ran off the invertor. Seemed like a smart thing to do. We purchased a used Class A with a Norcold 1200 series, of coarse it only works on A/C, (im impressed it worked at all at 12yrs old) I ordered a new burner and i am thinking of tossing it in the trash since it has out lived most Norcolds being 12 yrs old. Maybe a Dometic I would reconsider but thats $3000.00 away, not going to happen.

Our new/used coach has an invertor built in, as soon as i figure out how to use it throught the RC7 GS controller I will be set to switch over. Plus it has an auto generator start to replenish the batteries if needed, so I feel good about that.

My question is what trimming did you have to do to fit the standard fridge into the RV hole in the wall?

Do they make a direct replacement for specific sizes?

What about the hole in the outside wall will it help or hurt?

the interior of the coach is very nice, I do not want the fridge to look out of place.

We installed a Whirlpool Model ED2GVEXVD in May of 2011. I wrote up the process with photos in this forum, Replacing a Norcold Refrigerator. There is a good question and answer session that follows the initial article.

We run with our inverter on all the time and thus the refrigerator is always on. We seldom boondock for extended periods but when we have running the generator for a while in the morning and/or evening will work to keep our standard four battery bank charged.

In answer to the question of a direct replacement, I've never heard or read of one that fits right into the same hole in the wall. Ours required cutting the opening down about 6 inches. The hole in the outside wall should be blocked or closed off to prevent cold/warm air as well as insects from entering the coach. The Norcold refrigerator forms a tight seal with the inside wall of the coach. The replacement refrigerator does not seal the inside wall. Even if you put padding or insulation around the sides to form a seal, the bottom of our refrigerator is not sealed and would allow outside air and bugs passage into the interior of the coach. I put a wood panel over the roof opening and constructed a cover for the inside of the exterior removable panel on the coach so I can still remove that panel to access the plug in and for cleaning purposes.

As to how the refrigerator looks, I was more concerned with having cold food and solid ice cream than looks but I'm very happy with the looks as well. I have all the ice I want through the door along with cold water. I never have to defrost this refrigerator and as said by others, I sleep better knowing that this refrigerator is much less likely to go up in flames.

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We installed a Whirlpool Model ED2GVEXVD in May of 2011. I wrote up the process with photos in this forum, Replacing a Norcold Refrigerator. There is a good question and answer session that follows the initial article.

We run with our inverter on all the time and thus the refrigerator is always on. We seldom boondock for extended periods but when we have running the generator for a while in the morning and/or evening will work to keep our standard four battery bank charged.

In answer to the question of a direct replacement, I've never heard or read of one that fits right into the same hole in the wall. Ours required cutting the opening down about 6 inches. The hole in the outside wall should be blocked or closed off to prevent cold/warm air as well as insects from entering the coach. The Norcold refrigerator forms a tight seal with the inside wall of the coach. The replacement refrigerator does not seal the inside wall. Even if you put padding or insulation around the sides to form a seal, the bottom of our refrigerator is not sealed and would allow outside air and bugs passage into the interior of the coach. I put a wood panel over the roof opening and constructed a cover for the inside of the exterior removable panel on the coach so I can still remove that panel to access the plug in and for cleaning purposes.

As to how the refrigerator looks, I was more concerned with having cold food and solid ice cream than looks but I'm very happy with the looks as well. I have all the ice I want through the door along with cold water. I never have to defrost this refrigerator and as said by others, I sleep better knowing that this refrigerator is much less likely to go up in flames.

Thank you for the information and the photos were great. We are going to complete this task soon, I have had enough with the Norcold product safety record and reliability already and I have only owned this coach for 2 months. We have met people with Norcold products that have had nothing but bad things to say about their reliability.

Funny story, I called Norcold to see if I could use the 1200 on the invertor since the gas burner is not working, the tech support person was very numb, his response was "no, it draws to much power and no invertor will handle that load", funny my invertor will run the microwave, that fridge pulls that much power, I doubt it.

I have to do my homework a little and seek out the best price for one and make the switch. I am tired of looking at the thermometer inside and seeing 45-50 deg, good thing we only use this for mini weekend getaways a few times a month.

My wife is very concerned over the safety record the RV refrigerators provide. Funny you mentioned frozen ice cream, I put a bottle of cranberry juice in our freezer for three days and it only turned to slush not even a firm slush, pretty sad. Our old RV was equipped with a Dometic Americana, and the fridge was 16 years old, other that routine maintenance I had no issues with it, in fact it would have froze the juice and split the bottle in a day.

After speaking to their customer support center I can see why they have product issues.

Thank you again for the information. due to safety and cost this sounds like the best approach.

Joe

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Nice to know that someone, besides me, had kitchen in house built for comfort...I'm 6' 8" and the only problem is re-sale of house. I don't suppose you would be interested in a 2,300 sq. ft. home on Galveston Isle?

I love my residential fridge. Problem is, so does the wife of fellow campers that don't have one! I'm the "Carl, can you keep...for a couple of days"? LOL

Carl

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Thank you for the information and the photos were great. We are going to complete this task soon, I have had enough with the Norcold product safety record and reliability already and I have only owned this coach for 2 months. We have met people with Norcold products that have had nothing but bad things to say about their reliability.

Funny story, I called Norcold to see if I could use the 1200 on the invertor since the gas burner is not working, the tech support person was very numb, his response was "no, it draws to much power and no invertor will handle that load", funny my invertor will run the microwave, that fridge pulls that much power, I doubt it.

I have to do my homework a little and seek out the best price for one and make the switch. I am tired of looking at the thermometer inside and seeing 45-50 deg, good thing we only use this for mini weekend getaways a few times a month.

My wife is very concerned over the safety record the RV refrigerators provide. Funny you mentioned frozen ice cream, I put a bottle of cranberry juice in our freezer for three days and it only turned to slush not even a firm slush, pretty sad. Our old RV was equipped with a Dometic Americana, and the fridge was 16 years old, other that routine maintenance I had no issues with it, in fact it would have froze the juice and split the bottle in a day.

After speaking to their customer support center I can see why they have product issues.

Thank you again for the information. due to safety and cost this sounds like the best approach.

Joe

The tech was correct in stating that the rv frig would draw too much current. The reason the microwave works is that it is on for a short period of time, usually less than a few minutes. On mine when it is on it is drawing about 200 amps from the battery bank. My rv frig draws about 30 amps when cycled on, and in about 8 hours has depleted a 6 golf cart battery bank.

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Holy microwave, Batman! Our 700 watt microwave draws less than 4 amps as per the nameplate and is on a 20amp breaker.

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Update; I replaced ours with a GE 15.5 Cu.ft. I only had to trim 1/4 of an inch off of the top of the opening (mostly for the upper door hindge clearance). Its a no frills unit no electronics refrigerator.

I figured keep it simple and it should last longer, more space than the Norcold 1210. The hardest part was getting the old unit out of the coach, I removed one of the side windows, with three friends we passed the old unit out and the new one back it (doors off of course). I have 2.5" on each side of open space so I insulated along side and trimmed off the interior and removed the exterior cover and screened it on the inside to keep bugs out.

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Holy microwave, Batman! Our 700 watt microwave draws less than 4 amps as per the nameplate and is on a 20amp breaker.

That 4 amp draw is when you are plugged in on 120 volt. When using an inverter it is drawing over 200 amps at 12 volts with my 1200 watt microwave.

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