ivycole

2003 Bounder 35E Losing Power

12 posts in this topic

HI,

My rig has the workhorse chassis with the Chevy V8 with only 11k miles. On my first trip out it developed two issues that may or may not be related. It started on my trip from Memphis to Port St. Joe, Florida. About seven hours into the trip and several stops it was dinner time. I stopped at a Jack's burger joint. I was gone for about 15 minutes.

When I restarted the rig it started fine but started chugging and died when I pressed the accelerator. I restarted the engine fine and it moved about 20 feet before it started chugging and dies again. Being somewhat stubborn, I restarted it for the third time and it started yet again fine. This time I got to the interstate acceleration on ramp, I reached the max speed of 37 before it started chugging and died. At this point I called for a tow. It took about an hour and twenty minutes for them to arrive.

Since they had a medium wrecker not a large, I suggested to try starting it. It stared and ran fine, except for one some chug that it recovered from, for about a 12 mile trip back to the repair shop.

They kept it over night and could not repeat the issue after about 22 miles of driving the next day. They did check the fuel pressure and said it was acceptable.

My rig repeated the chugging and dying on more time on the trip to Florida. This time I just waited in a shady spot for 30 minutes and she restarted and ran fine.

Now on the trip back I never shut her off but she started having problem climbing hill if you wanted her to keep the original speed. This was not happening on the trip down nor before the trip. She would start backfiring and trying to lose power if you would insist on keeping your speed. But if you would lower your speed by 5 MPH or so as you climbed a hill, she would handle that fine.

Any suggestions?

Thanks,

Ivy

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

11 year old rig and 11,000 miles. Have you changed the fuel filter recently? How fresh is the fuel? How often is it started and driven? 1000 miles per year is not much which suggests the gas tank could have trash, water, etc. Bio fuels have a tendency to destroy rubber fuel lines and becomes unusable after just a few weeks.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ivy,

Jim covered things well!

I would add that there is a possibility of some rust build up in the fuel filter that could be limiting you fuel flow is it moves around in the filter. They can be difficult to remove if you fuel lines have rusted around the area of the filter connections. So you could look for the inline filter generally located on the drivers side frame rail about half way between the front and rear axles. Spray them with some penetrating oil. Not WD-40 in this case, need something that will leave a heavy oil film.

The second thought is to run some Injector cleaner through the system. I do like Lucas, it is more of an oil based product. 5oz. treats 25 gal. The Ethanol tends to dry out the "O" rings in the injectors and it makes a good top oil for the cylinders.

If its going to do the trick, one needs to drive at highway speed of about 15 min. and you should notice a difference. Will not fix a dirty fuel filter though.

Rich.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It unbelievable that the first shop you took it to sent you on your way without changing the fuel filter and fuel treatment. You could also have water in the tank for all we know. I betting that fuel filter and fuel treatment will fix it. I like seafoam and had use it many times on cars that sit often.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

BTW, Ivy, has the Workhorse chassis brake recall been completed? Have you recently changed the brake fluid? Are the tires less than 7-8 years old, regardless of the tread?

I'm only mentioning this because low mileage on older motorhomes raises several red flags.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks to everyone for all the help. I should have added that I had the workhorse service center here change and flush all the fluids and filters before I left for my trip. Injectors were ran through the B&G machine. Axles were services and flushed. Axle seals replaced. Water hoses replaced. Serpentine belt replaced.Over 4K in preventive maintenance before the trip. The gasoline was fresh with stabilizer added just in case. Was running like a top with no issues before the services! I did not flush the gas tank because it was driven across country ~3,000 miles before I purchased it in February. I did have all rubber lines replaced.

Any suggestions?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Jim,

Yes the brake recall and the Norcold recall have both been completed. I forgot to add to my previous post that I also had new tires installed at a great price thanks to our club!! :)

Thanks again,

Ivy

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I would then suspect the fuel pump and while the tank is out hopefully a green blob isn't floating around. It also could be ignition module as that is another problem area that fits the symptoms.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ivy,

Thanks for your feedback! Ray mentioned the fuel pump. Did they run a fuel pressure test on the fuel pump?

Ivy, there is a ground connection for the fuel pump on the pump assembly harness connects to the frame, that one might want to check and see if it is rusted or loose.

From all the information, posted it sure sounds like a fuel supply issue and if the inline fuel filter was changed; it would still look like new.

Do you know if the fuel tank is made of metal or polypropylene ? If the tank is metal, then there could be a rust issue plugging the fuel pump filter inside the tank.

Rust rust inside plastic fuel tanks could only come from an external source.

Fuel pumps generally can pump 10 thousand gallons of fuel before having issues. That much fuel would put the coach in the 100,000 + mile area.

You did not mention smelling fuel, that could indicate rusted metal lines on the fuel pump assembly.

Rich.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for the follow up, Ivy.

You indicated the rubber hoses were replaced, did they also replaced the metal fuel hose? It could be plugged. I've seen a short piece of rubber hose used to make an odd bend in fuel lines, is there a kink?

Keep us updated please.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks everyone. It turn out to be two bad spark plug wires on cylinders 7 and 8. I had all the wires replaced and new plugs since the tech was in the area. On a tangent, I was at the local workhorse chassis service center and they wanted $738 to replace the wires and plugs. Very lucky for me a brand new Camping World opened up in my area. $280 out the door and done the next day!!!!

Now the steps will not work after I serviced the house batteries!!!! All the fuses are good but I did not check the switch yet. Any other suggestions?

Thanks!!!!!!

Ivy

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ivy,

Check the 20 amp fuses in the chassis fuse box. Your fuse box with the Chev. chassis should be on the firewall outside the the coach above the radiator.

Rich.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!


Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.


Sign In Now