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  2. Rich, Bob Jones and RV Masters both have 4-1/2 stars if that means anything. I have not used them personally. If they are busy there are a few more in that area. Bob Jones: (713) 910-2949 RV Masters: (713) 461-2300 What year is your Bounder.
  3. You are dead on, Thing is the clearance is so tight the gear needs to rotate / move just a little to replace the clevis pin, Roll pin or bolt. If they used a Woodruff key then things could get more interesting. Rich.
  4. I had that problem on my dining room slide. The rear coupler is just a 3/8 through bolt and it will bend until it breaks. Then the slide is out of sync and won't move until the bolt is replaced. I think it served as a shear pin if something jammed the gears. Check for a bent or broken connecting coupling bolt.
  5. Thanks Joe ! Will see what we find out over the next week. Have a number of tools that one just does not travel with, plus the factory has no clue what I have worked on over 60 years. Like repairing farm equipment in the Fields as a youngster. Rich.
  6. Today
  7. Its a shame you are so far from PA and we haven't begun to plan or out TK move or i'd come to your rescue. If that slides in far enough you can run it, PM me if you want to swing by the house on your way by.
  8. What campground? US-90 runs right through Houston, and you could be in several of the cities South of there. Email me if you need to keep it on the QT.
  9. We are located just south of Houston off of Alt 90. This is an old mechanical drive system, pre sync system. I do have the Mechanical PDF file for it , but no parts. In reality it is straight forward simple system. Rich.
  10. Rich, it might help if we knew what campground. On the other side: have you done the reset on the electronic controller?
  11. The Slide on our 39Z has a drive issue. The rear rail is out of sync with the front by only about 1/4 in to 3/8 in. That is about one tooth on the spur gear. Have tools at home to work on it but not in Texas. This issue happened when we arrived in Texas in January for some medical appointments and needs to be checked before Closing it for the trip Home. Does any one know of a Mobile service in the area that would come to the Campground to inspect or assist in closing the slide to minimize any damage. I do have an appointment at a service center up north in July and adding one more item to the list should be no big issue. Thank You. Rich.
  12. I agree with Richard. I pretty much check once a month, or as soon as possible thereafter if I have forgotten,,,,
  13. Gonna be difficult to find a diesel pusher that short. The only one I know of is a 1996/97 era Beaver Monterey. I know a man who owns one, they are a quality-built motorhome IMO, and the 300HP CAT engine really moves it up the hills.
  14. I agree, same with hunting cheap fuel. For those talking about tax avoidance, remember that is legal. Tax evasion is NOT legal.
  15. Yesterday
  16. Excellent trouble shooting. Thanks for the update.
  17. I would try to get some satisfaction from Bounder. My 2003 does not have any issues. Welcome to the forum. Bill
  18. Update: I did try to tighten all of my connections and I also replaced my ATS but the problem still existed. However I discovered that the circuits involved (shedding or kicking out) were only those that were wired for support from the inverter (separate breaker box next to main service box), this was a clue, so upon removing the inspection plate on the side of my inverter where there is a 30 Amp reset breaker (not tripped) I discovered a burnt spade connector and related 4" long 10GA piece of wire that had been overheating for some time now as the wire conductors were green and very brittle. I replaced that piece of 10GA wire and installed a new spade connector along with cleaning the spade connector on the breaker itself. The problem is now completely fixed, we can now draw even maximum amps on all circuits without any problems whatsoever. Apparently that bad wire/connection condition was acting like a resistor and causing more amperage draw and in turn caused the system to kick out or shed any of those circuits involved with the inverter. Just thought I would write this follow up in hopes that it may help someone else. Safe Travels
  19. I would reach out to Fleetwood if no satisfaction then onto the seat manufacturer. My fear is they replace it with the same quality you currently have and in 2 years your are back where you are now. I would also express that when I spoke to both parties.
  20. I just toured the Battle Born lithium battery factory last week. Sure opened my eyes at the differences between the different lithium construction. The type of cells are critical for longevity and how far they can be discharged to. The onboard battery management system is critical for the proper operation of the battery. The top terminal 12 volt 100 amp has a retail price of $949 and the 12 volt 100 amp golf cart size with front terminals is $1049. The warranty is 10 years with replacement up to 8 years. They will hold a charge for a year with no load.
  21. Welcome to the FMCA Forum! This Thread offers a little information. Rich An there are a few others scattered around.
  22. Think You are correct about the material brake down Richard. We have a much older Bounder with the same kind of material on the dash and no sign of separation, but I have used leather dressing on it. The seats are fabric in our coach and we have used covers to keep them clean, but no seam failures. and they have still collected years of dirt. Rich.
  23. Has anyone switched over to Lithium batteries? I have a 2.5 year old coach with four acid house batteries. I have installed a single point fill system and have keep the terminals clean. I have been told life is 3 to 4 years. These are the batteries that came with the coach, so I suspect they are not "top of the line". I would like to get rid of the fill feature and at least go to a sealed battery. I do not boondock, but live in the coach about 4 months out of the year hooked to power.
  24. That does seem surprising to happen on a 3-year-old coach. Not sure if that is leather or some leather look-alike, but I'd guess that it's not real leather (at least not beyond the very top layer). We had that happen to a 'leather' sofa at home a few years ago. The culprit was sunscreen/bug spray someone was wearing which reacted poorly to the material used to make the 'leather' fabric. The top layer of the fabric separated from the fabric under-layer and flaked off just like in your photos. Upholstery is expensive, at least for the good stuff. If you can identify the manufacturer of the seats you might try to contact them directly to see what they have to say about their product and how poorly it held up. Maybe they'll be able to help, or at least offer a discount on a new set of covers for the seats.
  25. I have a 2016 Bounder 35K and the Leather on the front seats is flaking off from wear and looks bad. I can't believe this should be happening this quick, the coach only has about 14k miles on it. Any ideas how to fix this or can anyone recommend nice seat covers, I really think this should be covered under warranty? Any thoughts or comments? I attached a couple of pictures
  26. I used to shop my insurance around by myself, and then one day discovered what a good insurance agent can accomplish. We've been with the same agency for many years now, and they handle all our policies - auto, home, and business. It was quite surprising how much better coverage our agent was able to get for us, and how much less things cost us compared to what I was able to do myself. A good independent agent can shop your coverage to all the companies offering lines of insurance you need. They are familiar with the ins & outs of the underwriting process, and they are able to do things through their contacts that you and I would never be able to do. The most important thing for us in using an independent agent, especially one like we use that has a HUGE client base, is their ability to go to bat for you when there are problems with a claim.
  27. I check monthly. It's easy for me to check the house batteries since I have a watering system installed. All I have to do is connect the water supply hose to the system, drop the other end into a jug of distilled water, and then squeeze the rubber bulb until resistance is felt. Here's a link to what I use - they are available to fit most batteries out there and will vary from brand to brand: https://www.trojanbattery.com/products/hydrolink-watering-system/ Checking the chassis start and generator batteries is done the old fashioned way - remove the caps and look inside with a flashlight. I do that about once every 6 weeks or so. To make it easier to get the water in those batteries I use a opaque squeeze bottle like you find at a restaurant supply. The more a battery is discharged and recharged, and the more it's charged at higher voltage levels (first stage of charging) the more water is lost.
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