TheZrving

Hey Everyone, Saturday afternoon and no access to tech help til Monday. We unplugged this morning(everything was fine) and went to different campground. Plugged back in and not able to get power. Voltages at pedestal are good, Southwire surge gard at pedestal indicates everything is fine and switches. The inboard Southwire 40350RVC surge/Switchgear has red rapid lights flashing and will not switch. I believe the led's indicate high voltage Disconnected shore power and started generator, same rapid lights flashing and switch not taking place. Any Ideas?? Thanks, Joe

Thanks for feed back. After contacting Protect-a-tow, they stated that their product can't be used with rear exhaust of DP Going to look into larger dually mud flaps for directly behind wheels as rayin suggested and kind of monitor toad for next couple weeks/month

I know this topic has been discussed in the past, and I have read what I could find. Looking for personal opinions on what people have experienced. I have a DP, single axle with rear radiator...Towing Grand Cherokee with BlueOx tow bar I have decided against the large rock guard/mud flap under coach and decided to go with specific toad protection. First, trying to decide between solid shield type in front of toad grill or screen type on top of tow bar Based on that direction: BlueOx Kargard vs Guardian Rockshield or Protect-a-tow vs Tow Defender Thanks for your assistance in advance

Took mixing valve out today (was not easy where it was located).Replaced with new one..Problem fixed I will disassemble and clean with vinegar to keep on hand for spare. Also notice inlet screen had fair amount of build up on it, which would explain low flow. Thanks for everyones input

Had a plumber friend come over and look at it (he is also a Rver). He believes the problem is with mixing valve. Going to try and find a higher quality(residential) one and relocate it to point where it will be accessible in future. I will report back when done.

I get hot water for 1-2 minutes then it turns cold. Way too quick to run out the tank

If the valve is piped incorrect, wouldn't I have no hot water? Not even the 1-2 minutes I am getting.

Manholt...All faucets and shower do same thing..Minute or two hot then cold Kaypsmith..We are second owner..has never worked for us, would assume it worked for first owner Rayin..I was wondering how one valve would work in the place of normally 3 for bypass. So there is some type of linkage system? I am not able to find any access to water heater. What I can see, there is no sign of three way. rossboyer...Our heater is located in very back of coach, under vanity. There is a louvered wood panel for heat to escape and a access panel under the sink. neither allows any water heater access. I can see/feel several braided lines leaving mixing valve and going through the check valve..No Bypass Kaypsmith..I did remove the check valve and verified the flow direction and that it was operating correctly

Someone also suggested it could be stuck mixing valve, which cannot be accessed without pulling heater

This is the only valve I can locate on the coach

The only valve I can find is the single water heater bypass located in wet bay. Impossible to get behind water heater..no access

Well I am stumped!! We have a 2018 Pace Arrow 38k with Elec/gas 10 gallon water heater. When any faucet or shower is turned on we get good hot water for about a minute then goes cold. I've checked outside shower valves to make sure both are off. Took out check valve, looked over and verified it was not sticking and moving correctly. Does same on either gas or electric. Anyone with thoughts?