mmaurice
-
Content Count
8 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Posts posted by mmaurice
-
-
I have 2 Coleman Mach A/C units which also have electric heat.
I used them to heat our motorhome the first night with no issues. The second day they ran fine but that night they started to blow cold air. I shut them down and a few hours later turned them on and they worked fine all day into the night. Then sometime during the late night they started blowing cold air again. I switched over to propane heat and that went well.
Are you supposed to use propane when it gets too cold or over prolonged periods? Is that possibly the reason the electric stopped blowing hot? -
21 minutes ago, rayin said:I think E-trailer is right. I had a 1997 Jeep Grand cherokee, which has only one light for brake and turn signal on each side.. The installer had to use the relay converter because the MH has separate brake and turn signal bulbs in separate fixtures. My relay converter is about 2" long X 1" high X 3/4" thick, if that has any useful information. FWIW, that 1996 Jeep GC used the same OEM wiring to the rear lighting, no special diodes, just that converter box on the MH just ahead of the 7-pin Bargman plug.
All the lighting on the Jeep should work in conjunction with the MH lighting when wired correctly, the MH light switch will control both vehicles with umbilical cord attached..
I'm inclined to think Roadmaster is pushing their product instead of the less expensive method.
Just for comparison, talk to a local Uhaul hitch and wiring installer for their opinion; then speak with a Blue Ox installer about the simple way of configuring the wiring..
More bulbs and more wiring is just that much more to cause future issues IMO.
Then to end this reply; Now there is a wireless lighting system for towed vehicles, but the setup is quite expensive comparatively.
Actually Roadmasters’ setup would be cheaper. And I think my setup is opposite yours. My MH has just the one stop/turn signal and my Jeep has a separate stop and turn signal.
Roadmaster says to wire the stop/turn signal together for towing and not to wire the amber light. However when not towing the Jeep everything would be normal. -
I am trying to figure out how to wire an older Jeep Cherokee (1999 XJ) to a newer 2019 Southwind Motorhome.
I have called trailer a couple of times and keep getting different answers. I called Roadmaster and gott an even different answer.
part of the issues are:
When the Jeep is off and I depress the brake, the brake light will light. Roadmaster says I need Roadmaster Brake-Lite Relay Kit for Towed Vehicles.
while e trailer says there is no need for this but I will need Vehicle to Vehicle Tail Light Converter and 2 additional diodes. Roadmaster says this is not needed!
Another e trailer representative says none of this is needed and to watch there video.
BTW I am planning to install the Roadmaster Diode 7-Wire to 6-Wire Flexo-Coil Wiring Kit
I am really lost on where to go with this. Also, when towing a car does the license plate need to be illuminated at night. If so will the tail lights automatically turn this light on?
-
I'm looking at upgrading to a more permanent system. Options appear to be:
- Splicing into the Jeep Cherokee Sport wiring with a diode kit
- Using an 'add-a-bulb' kit that puts an additional bulb in each brake light
My inclination is to use the 'add-a-bulb' option, as it creates a separate system for flat towing that doesn't alter the stock system.
Anyone had any experiences with either of these options? If so, whose kit did you use? -
On 10/30/2022 at 4:08 PM, james681 said:I had the same problem with my Southwind. The dash is mounted on brackets that extend frm the front of the coach, not attached very well on the sides, Simple fix, cut a 1x4 oard the length from the floor to the mountng bracket and wedge it in against the wall. Works great and costs nothing
Any chance you have a picture of where you placed these boards?
-
I have a Fleetwood Southwind and the dash is horrendous. It shakes and rattles so bad that the radio actually fell into the dash. I have heard this is a very common problem with Fleetwood. If anyone has any tips, pointers ideas on how to fix and where to start, it would be greatly appreciated.
-
On 9/4/2019 at 12:54 PM, 14Fleetwood said:Thanks for all your insight. I fixed my problem this morning. I had my wife drive the coach while I observed what was going on under the dash. What I found was that the entire sidewall of the coach was moving relative the dash frame. I crawled under the coach to assess the attach points and what I found was that two screws had been sheared where the dash frame attaches to the sidewall frame. I had to go through the engine bay to get a good look at the frames, but you could clearly see the two missing screw locations and that the two frame parts had been moving relative to each other by the chafing on the metal. I drilled new holes (3) in the two frames and used self tapping metal screws to join the two frames. See the picture attached to see the final results. I test drove over a relatively rough road and confirmed the problem is fixed. Thanks again for your help!
How long were the self tapping screws that you used. I am afraid of going through the sidewall.
Question about heaters?
in Systems and Appliances
Posted · Report reply
Thank you Bill, you answered my question. The temps were getting down to 32. I wound up switching to the furnace, but did not know that the a/c heat pump worked that way. I am glad to know there is nothing wrong with my a/c units.