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schoonmakerjon

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  1. All, I purchased a RV with ~10+yr old electronics and entertainment systems and am now planning an upgrade to the system. My initial thinking is there are 3 critical and core elements, Internet mobile access, Internet/digital streaming TV and the switching system. The current installation allows the possibility to upgrade the internet mobile access and front lounge TV, utilizing the current amplifier/switching to continue using the speaker system and CD player. (I am old enough to have CDs to put in this player.) The plan and upgrade steps look like, eliminate the plasma TV and replace with a current internet-enabled, digital streaming capable TV, ~$350. Eliminate the satellite hook-up, now inactive, and replace with an Inseego MiFi 2100 5G capable mobile hotspot. Since I'm already a Verizon customer, it will be easier/simpler to add this device and service to my existing account. And even though 5G service is currently limited, this device will default to 4G, and capture 5G whenever/wherever available. Also, the Inseego will allow any mobile phone/tablet to connect to it providing internet access to any/all devices coming onto the RV. The TV is just another device "paired" to the hotspot, wired or wireless. ~$60/month for service and ~$400 device cost. Utilize the existing amplifier and switching device to bring the audio signal into the existing Bose speaker system and continuing use of the CD player. For folks having done some/all of this type of upgrade before, do I have this about correct? Am I missing major items/issues, and if so what? Any suggestions/recommendations, possible problems, etc. are greatly appreciated. And I'm able to write this all up, step-by-step, if folks believe others can reuse/apply the template. Thank you. --- Jon
  2. All, I am also planning to change all DC overhead, interior lights in my coach to LEDs. From reading this topic and reviewing a few videos this seems fairly simple. 1. Pull out the old incandescent units, noting the positive and negative wire leads, 2. Reattach the new LEDs, again ensuring the positive and negative wire leads are aligned with the new LEDs, and 3. Test to verify secure connections and lighting. What more might be involved here and what troubleshooting may be required? Also, there are generally 3-4 lamps or units per switch, and I understand these units will be wired in parallel and all I need to do is again correctly match the positive and negative wire leads. Please advise any other guidance and/or insights for this LED upgrade project. Thank you for your help. --- Jon
  3. All following this thread, This water tank repair is now complete and I'm closing the thread. The final drain and pump connections were made 5 Mar at the winter storage facility. I did make a modification to securing the tank based on forum members feedback. This change is, after installing the marine plywood patch and the non-skid mat, I installed 2 hard wood "ribs", screwed through the mat and into the plywood floor. These 2 "ribs" are padded to avoid abrasion and fit into the tank indents preventing the tank from moving forward (braking) or backward (acceleration). Pls. see picture below. And I'll add to small lateral supports to prevent sideways movement. Although with these "ribs" running laterally, ~20" under the tank, any uneven lateral movement is prevented. Also, the final plumbing connections were made by a mobile RV service firm, referred by storage facility. While I could have done this myself, I've limited PEX experience, didn't have the crimp tool, and would have chased about for the correct parts. So the mobile service was worthwhile from a time management perspective. thank you for everyone help and suggestions. This has all been valuable.
  4. Kay, Yes, I've decided to use a rubber mat as suggested, I'm expecting it today. I'm also, planning on cutting out the deteriorated plywood section and replacing only this with marine plywood. Then placing the mat over the plywood layer. I've 3-plastic blocks, same material as the tank, to affix to left/right ends and the front side to secure the tank in place. I can screw the plastic blocks into the plywood base, holding down both the rubber mat and the tank in place. I'm reluctant to drill into/through the floor, and understand if I were to drill through the coach floor, stainless steel bolts are needed to eliminate rusting. Please let me know any other suggestions. thank you. And thank you everyone for the feedback.
  5. Hello all following this thread, The tank is repaired and a picture is below. This work was done by Emco Plastics, Cedar Grove, NJ. When looking at the prior tank picture, the drain value and the pump connection lines (although not the tank connection fitting) are both visible on the right side. I pulled the tank myself bringing it to Emco and it took them ~3 weeks to complete work, including fabricating the pump and drain connection fittings. Again see pic. The drain fitting is 1" diameter (left) and the pump fitting is 1 1/2" (right). The prior pump fitting was 1", and I'm planning on stepping the new fitting to 1", as I believe this will be a more effective match to the pump. Also, I'm planning on using PEX for these new connections. As I understand Emco's tasks here, the following was done, 1.) old metal fitting were removed, 2.) matching plastic patches were "welded" in place 3.) new matching plastic, threaded fitting were fabricated 4.) these new fittings were spin "welded" in place and. 5.) fittings were sealed and all work tested for leaks. Total cost ~$360.00 Here is the repaired tank picture with explanation. The 2 new outlets are at the picture bottom, drain is left and pump right sides. In this picture the tank is on its end and the orientation from the fully installed tank is to turn the tank 90degrees counterclockwise, i.e. you are now looking at the tank's right end. The prior metal fittings are sitting in the ~lower/middle of the picture. Drain lower left and pump center, extending to top. In the upper part of the picture the fill spout is visible, upper left and the overflow spout, lower right. Your comments about securing the tank in place are all helpful/useful, and I'm currently planning on using marine plywood, as suggested by the prior owner. Kay's comments about a rubber mat makes me rethink the plywood. However, plywood allows using plastic blocks, replacing the wood, and securing these to the marine plywood panel to prevent the tank moving. The prior owner indicated previously the tank has a tendency to "walk" toward the storage bay door, and the wooden blocks, secured to the prior plywood panel prevented this movement. Unfortunately, the leaking rotted this floor panel, and marine plywood will hold up to occasional water spills. I'm planning on doing the tank re-install Friday, 5 March with some plumbing help, as I do not have PEX experience nor the needed crimp tool. This RV repair person has both. Please let me know any questions and/or re-install directions. Thank you for your help and interest.
  6. All following this topic, I signed the contract today, for EMCO to do the work, so I'm expecting 2-3 weeks for completion. Their work includes 2 new fittings, drain and water pump connections, to be installed in the tank. The est. cost is $300 for both the plastic welding repairs and fabricating/installing the 2 fittings. I'll have pictures once the repairs are complete and will post here. Additionally, I'm expecting to use PEX piping to make connection from the tank to the pump, as PEX is now available in 1" piping. If you all have some experience/insights here, please do pass them along. Also, I'm looking for any insights/recommendations for securing the tank in the water bay/compartment. Thank you.
  7. All, helpful information and I'll evaluate adding a rooftop antenna, as there was previously one installed for a satellite TV connection. Also, for folks adding a router to your hotspot, what can you all share about the router's added-value to the setup? I'm understanding that most hotspot devices allow a dozen+ device connections at one-time, so my initial understanding is that a router would not be needed. Please let me know anyone's perspective/understanding about the router's added value. Thank you.
  8. All, I appreciate everyone's replies and insights. Also, a respondent has encouraged me to continue to describe the repair activities and process here. After making one SikaFlex 221 sealant repair attempt with limited success and your all feedback, I located a somewhat convenient plastics fabricator, Emco Plastics, in NJ. I was able to remove the tank and transport it to Emco, yesterday. This firm appears from my research and yesterday's conversation to be a well informed and a knowledgeable crew. They will do both the plastic and spin welding for 2 new fittings, drain and pump. The drain fitting is visible in the prior picture and behind it, same side, is the pump connection fitting. At this point the estimated price range is $250-$350, and this might change based on the fittings needed. I'm expecting to have this work completed in 2-3 weeks. As some background, this tank was the original installation in a MCI bus conversion done in ~2000. I purchased the coach from the original owner, then operated as a celebrity coach for industry participants ~ 1 year ago. There is indication this drain had been leaking for some time, years?, given the plywood layer/section under the drain is deteriorated and will need to be replaced/patched. The Emco plastics fabricator, doing the initial tank inspection yesterday, did confirm that any attempt to fix and/or seal the leak with any approach other than plastics/spin welding would only be temporary and fail. So again I appreciate everyone's experience and feedback here, and finding what appears to be a competent plastics fabricator for these repairs. I'll provide follow-on updates and a brief reinstallation description as these activities occur. Also, since I've limited pumping experience, I may have some added questions for folks following this thread, particularly about rebuilding and making the pump connection. I intend to do this with PVC piping. Thank you for everyone's help and insights.
  9. All, Very helpful information. I'm currently a Verizon mobile customer so I'll evaluate the possibility of adding their device to our current plan, with expanded data. Also, I'll have a look at the T-mobile/Spirit options as these appear to be lower-cost and more flexible. Thank you. -- Jon
  10. sstgermain, Hello and thank you for your reply. I expect this is Sprint/TMobile's equivalent to Verizon's Jetpack MiFI 8800L or MiFi M2100 5G UW, as both are hotspot products. Does your setup work as effectively while traveling down the road, as well as stationary at a campsite? I'm interested in both capabilities, connection while traveling and quality/performance connection while at a campsite. Thank you. --- Jon
  11. Bill and Richard, this is quite helpful. what groups do these repairs? Plastic welders? Tank specialist? Easily found via an Internet search? Please let me know any supplier pointers. Also, I've found some Uniseal products that could fit/seal this opening and these products indicate a reliable seal. Do you all have any pointers about these Uniseal products? There are numerous YouTube videos illustrating application/use. thank you. --- Jon
  12. All, I'm evaluating Internet connection options to support basic internet browsing, email and TV/audio streaming services. I've noticed there appears to be 2 primary options to make the Internet connection and acquire quality services. I'm interested in folks taking either of these approaches and their experience installing, setting up and getting quality services. The 2 approaches I've investigated are: 1. Use a major mobile phone service provider, e.g. AT&T, Verizon and install their hotspot device. The Verizon options are the Jetpack MiFI 8800L or MiFi M2100 5G UW. Both are installed inside the RV and provide inside WiFI services for TVs, tablets, smartphones, etc. 2. Use a major rooftop antenna supplier with connection to the respective mobile data/phone service providers, e.g. AT&T, Verizon. The Winegard 360+ or Connection 2.0 are the examples here. These involve installing a rooftop antenna, similar to satellite TV, and then wiring into the RV. I believe either Winegard product requires a respective mobile service SIM card to make the connection into their network. Option #1 appears simpler/easier, the question is quality of connection/service. Please advise anyone current installation approaches and setup/operational experiences. Thank you.
  13. All, I'm evaluating replacing the RV fresh water tank. It is the original and ~20yrs old. The tank's drain fitting has a minor leak, (see pic, lower right) that I've repaired once, sealing with SikaFlex 221, having some success, and not completed fixing. The tank is ~45"long x 22"tall x 21"deep, and I expect this is ~80gals+. the standard tanks are available online and YouTube videos illustrate how to insert and seal the fitting outlets. This tank needs 4 outlets, a drain, water pump connection, fill port and air vent. I am interested in anyone having taken this DIY approach and understanding the work effort and the reliability of these outlet seals. Another approach is to go to a plastic "welder" providing the dimensions and port/outlet locations. I understand these plastic "welder" will then custom build the new tank. This new tank would basically "pop-in" and I would only need to make the necessary connections, water pump, etc. Alternatively, I could take the coach to the plastic "welders" and they would build and install. Again, I'm interested in folks that have taken this custom build approach and your overall cost and success. Please advise any recommendations/suggestions and overall experience. Thank you.
  14. All participating in the topic, I believe the battery issue has been resolved. One of the 8D batteries was found to be deficient through an individual load test. Per Herman's recommendation, I acquired a simple load tester, and after working with a battery dealer and the prior owner, disconnected the 2 batteries and tested each. One passed and the other failed. So a few days ago, I replaced both with new 8Ds. All good, as prior issues have been eliminated. As my current use is limited, I'm shutting down the master electrical switch when the coach is stored. I'm planning on a short trip after Memorial Day, with the plan to test/verify most systems and be fairly close to home, if any significant problems occur. Overall this was a great learning experience, and I'm also now much more knowledgeable about the Trace Inverter. Thank you for everyone's help and advise. Regards, Jon
  15. Kay, good afternoon. Your above assessment is quite valuable, and knowing that the prior owner had this coach plugged into a shore power line at all times, when sitting, seems to indicate you are on-track here with your assessment. I will begin this assessment process, as soon as my load tester arrives and sort this out. Again, this is quite helpful and provides pointers to get this resolved. And I'll let you know the disposition/results. Thank you.
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