schoonmakerjon

Bill and Rayin, I appreciate your responses and adding some information. This celebrity coach was converted in 2000 on a MCI stock transit bus. The conversion was done in OH, and unfortunately the converter is no longer operating. Since this is a MCI coach, the maintenance is done by MCI's northeast service ctr in Blackwood, NJ and additional local maintenance is done by Peter Pan Bus (PPB), and exclusive MCI operator. So the coach is well maintained by fully informed, trained techs. I will also inquire with both MCI's blackwood crew and the PPB folks to understand other possibilities for sorting through this situation. And I'll have look into any nearby RV salvage operations for related RVIA information. Thank you very much for your insights and suggestions. --- Jon

All, in my prior to campground reservations, I've been asked about RV certification in some form, e.g. RVIA. We own a former celebrity coach, MCI, with all well-maintained, fairly high-end equipment, Aquahot, Protech, etc. Additionally, the coach is annually maintained by MCI's Northeast Service Ctr and is always current with the required state inspection. Park still are requiring RVIA decals and/or all equipment must be factory-installed. How are folks handling this situation, when you own a RV that does not come from an identified manufacturer, e.g. Newmar, HR, Tiffin, etc? Also, does RVIA or others have an inspection process that will certify a RV not made by one of the industry participants? Please advise any possibilities, Thank you for your help and insights.

Jim and others, I'll follow-up your leads/pointers to learn more. This is all helpful. I had an initial run through eBay, and did not find anything, and understand the value for having an appropriate pointer to focus the search. Thank you.

Bill, good morning and I appreciate your reply. Thank you. Also, I've received other information identifying this opening/"crack" as a grooved fitting for a shim. This shim is used for aligning the 50DN with the engine pulleys and related belts to drive the alternator. I've a contact for the shims and will be following this up. This added information will close out this topic for now and I'll update it if there is more information. Thank you everyone for having a look and your feedback. --- Jon

Hello Forum Members, I have a '99-'00 MCI converted coach used initially as a celebrity coach and now a highly functional RV. It has been working well for us until this year's recent annual inspection and the coach now has a parts sparing needs issue. I'm interested in understanding more about MCI bus used parts availability and sourcing. My goal is to keep the coach on the road. The electrical parts the coach needs for improved reliability, safety and sparing are the 12V and 24V modules used to manage the electrical current throughout the coach. I've had a 12V fail, with lose of most dashboard gauges and was able to obtain a used module for replacement. NFI parts currently has the 24V remanufactured modules available and unfortunately no 12V modules and unknown availability. The respective part numbers are 12V -- 07-18-1016 and 24V -- 07-18-1017. Currently the 12V module need is the priority. Please provide any information, connect info and related pointers to MCI/bus used, salvage and/or "junk yards" for possible parts. Thank you for your help. Regards, Jon

Hello Forum Members, I have a '99-'00 MCI converted coach used initially as a celebrity coach and now a highly functional RV. It has been working well for us until this year's recent annual inspection and the coach now has what might be a significant repair issue. I'm looking for insights, advise and related guidance to accomplish a resolution. My goal is to keep the coach on the road. The repair situation is the lower, 5 o'clock position on the 50DN bracket has developed a crack. Please see attached picture, 50DN w/lower bracket section and bracket crack at the 5 o'clock position. As identified the coach has a Detroit Diesel (DD) series 60, 12.6L engine and the 50DN alternation is attached to the upper right side, when viewing the engine from the rear compartment. I'm interested in anyone's information about repairing this cracked bracket. Can it be welded? replaced? other options? and information related to costs,, risks, success/reliability after repair. Thank you in advance for your insights and suggestions. Regards, Jon

All, This is quite helpful information and I will avail myself to these additional social media resources. The goggle earth/satellite view and measure is particularly useful to take the uncertainty out of showing up at these campgrounds and trying to sort it out, "on the spot". thank you again for everyone's comments and insights. --- Jon

Campcop, Again, I appreciate the pointer to RV Parky, I've the app and have occasionally chased up the listing to verify the big rig compatible information. I will now use it and other social media available information, e.g. trip advisor, Goggle reviews etc., for added validation. Thank you for taking the time and safe travels. ---- Jon

Wayne, I appreciate the pointer and will avail myself to this site and the related directory. I expect it will be helpful. Thank you for taking the time. Safe travels. Regards, Jon

All, How are folks with Class A RVs making the determination about an appropriate Big Rig friendly campground? We are traveling in a Class A, 45ft convert entertainer coach, and I always search the Big Rig friendly sites, using the FMCA road atlas as the starting point. Once a I have a few identified campground possibilities, I'll review there websites and call to verify both date availability, site location and maneuverability throughout the camp. Mostly my phone inquires yield a general response, "we've had 45ft units here with no problems". When I arrive I'm still finding challenging maneuverability, sometimes needing an open campsite to be able to get the coach situated. This can be challenging, so any added approach, inquiry method and information for identifying a truly Big Rig compatible/friendly RV campground will be greatly appreciated. Thank you for your help. --- Jon

Johnarch, Hello and I appreciate you providing your experience about this trip. We will consider going through Canada as part of the trip. Although since we will be traveling with pets/dogs, it might be more difficult to get in/out of Canada. My initial approach is to travel I90 and I69, staying in the US. So we will see. Thank you. --- Jon

All, we are planning a trip, late June - mid-July, through Eastern MI, from New Buffalo to Mackinac Island. What recommendations do you all have for campgrounds, stopovers/waypoints and specific locations to experience the area? We will be traveling from the Albany, NY area and will start our trip on I-90/NY Thurway. From this starting point we have quite a bit of flexibility and are traveling in a 45ft motorcoach. Thank you for your recommendations and suggestions. -- Jon

All following this upgrade post, I've nearly completed this upgrade and have the complete system in a trial installation prior the RV installation. In starting this project, I've removed a 26" JVC plasma TV, quite heavy, a Magnavox VHS/DVD and Sony AV receiver. I believe all components are 12+years old. I've left the Bose surround sound in place. There was previously a cable/satellite (DirecTV) box providing TV and internet access. This was removed prior to my acquiring the coach. As replacements, I've installed Verizon 5G Hotspot (Inseego) for internet and streaming TV. The Inseego tech team has been quite helpful. Verizon less so. Samsung 32" SmartTV N5300. This was fairly easy to wirelessly connect to the hotspot LG Blu-ray DVD player, and Denon AVR-S540BT for AM/FM radio, mobile phone/Bluetooth connection and USB port. This also connects to the Bose system. These newer TVs and AVRs with ARC connections are much easier and simpler to use, as Audio Return Channel (ARC) eliminates a cable and links controls between the TV and the AVR simplifying audio/speaker setup/integration. While the 5g hotspot currently is receiving 4G LTE, it appears to work fine and the Inseego crew has verified the 4G's capability, so getting 5G anywhere will make the signal better. I'm still sorting out the antenna situation, and the prior owner has provided some insights and I believe the antenna cabling is in place. Hopefully this will be reusable. Additionally, there is a 2nd system in the former rear lounge, and I'll be upgrading that will a similar implementation, sharing the 5G hotspot. Please advise any additional insights and/or questions. --- Jon

OK. I appreciate the update. Since I'm interested in getting to 5G, I expect the dedicated hotspot will be helpful as the 5G network expands. Thank you.

Rossboyer, OK. helpful. We have Prime and Peacock already, and expect with the 5G hotspot will get Disney+, so hopefully this will cover our needs. I expect the biggest challenge will be integrating the 5G hotspot with the Smart TV, and verifying we have an adequate signal at specific locations. And we will see how this all works out. Thank you.

All following this thread, I'm starting a major entertainment system upgrade in a former celebrity coach. This system was installed 2008-10 and includes satellite receiver, TVs, amplifiers/speaker systems, and DVDs/CDs. There are 2 separate systems, front and rear lounges. I'm interested in anyone's comments about having done something similar and focusing on deinstall/installation activities, new product options, service suppliers, etc. My approach will be, capture internet access and TV streaming services through FMCA's Verizon deal and 5G hotspot Install a load balancer/router to enhance the interior WiFi signal Install a new Smart TV for the front lounge Reuse the current amplifiers/speaker systems and CD changer/player Install new Blu-ray players to provide additional streaming apps source and to support 1 current/older TV. I plan to stage all these new units at home to test setup and integration and then start the coach deinstallation and related installation activities. Please let me know any questions/clarifications and suggestions. Thank you.

All, I purchased a RV with ~10+yr old electronics and entertainment systems and am now planning an upgrade to the system. My initial thinking is there are 3 critical and core elements, Internet mobile access, Internet/digital streaming TV and the switching system. The current installation allows the possibility to upgrade the internet mobile access and front lounge TV, utilizing the current amplifier/switching to continue using the speaker system and CD player. (I am old enough to have CDs to put in this player.) The plan and upgrade steps look like, eliminate the plasma TV and replace with a current internet-enabled, digital streaming capable TV, ~$350. Eliminate the satellite hook-up, now inactive, and replace with an Inseego MiFi 2100 5G capable mobile hotspot. Since I'm already a Verizon customer, it will be easier/simpler to add this device and service to my existing account. And even though 5G service is currently limited, this device will default to 4G, and capture 5G whenever/wherever available. Also, the Inseego will allow any mobile phone/tablet to connect to it providing internet access to any/all devices coming onto the RV. The TV is just another device "paired" to the hotspot, wired or wireless. ~$60/month for service and ~$400 device cost. Utilize the existing amplifier and switching device to bring the audio signal into the existing Bose speaker system and continuing use of the CD player. For folks having done some/all of this type of upgrade before, do I have this about correct? Am I missing major items/issues, and if so what? Any suggestions/recommendations, possible problems, etc. are greatly appreciated. And I'm able to write this all up, step-by-step, if folks believe others can reuse/apply the template. Thank you. --- Jon

All, I am also planning to change all DC overhead, interior lights in my coach to LEDs. From reading this topic and reviewing a few videos this seems fairly simple. 1. Pull out the old incandescent units, noting the positive and negative wire leads, 2. Reattach the new LEDs, again ensuring the positive and negative wire leads are aligned with the new LEDs, and 3. Test to verify secure connections and lighting. What more might be involved here and what troubleshooting may be required? Also, there are generally 3-4 lamps or units per switch, and I understand these units will be wired in parallel and all I need to do is again correctly match the positive and negative wire leads. Please advise any other guidance and/or insights for this LED upgrade project. Thank you for your help. --- Jon

All following this thread, This water tank repair is now complete and I'm closing the thread. The final drain and pump connections were made 5 Mar at the winter storage facility. I did make a modification to securing the tank based on forum members feedback. This change is, after installing the marine plywood patch and the non-skid mat, I installed 2 hard wood "ribs", screwed through the mat and into the plywood floor. These 2 "ribs" are padded to avoid abrasion and fit into the tank indents preventing the tank from moving forward (braking) or backward (acceleration). Pls. see picture below. And I'll add to small lateral supports to prevent sideways movement. Although with these "ribs" running laterally, ~20" under the tank, any uneven lateral movement is prevented. Also, the final plumbing connections were made by a mobile RV service firm, referred by storage facility. While I could have done this myself, I've limited PEX experience, didn't have the crimp tool, and would have chased about for the correct parts. So the mobile service was worthwhile from a time management perspective. thank you for everyone help and suggestions. This has all been valuable.

Kay, Yes, I've decided to use a rubber mat as suggested, I'm expecting it today. I'm also, planning on cutting out the deteriorated plywood section and replacing only this with marine plywood. Then placing the mat over the plywood layer. I've 3-plastic blocks, same material as the tank, to affix to left/right ends and the front side to secure the tank in place. I can screw the plastic blocks into the plywood base, holding down both the rubber mat and the tank in place. I'm reluctant to drill into/through the floor, and understand if I were to drill through the coach floor, stainless steel bolts are needed to eliminate rusting. Please let me know any other suggestions. thank you. And thank you everyone for the feedback.

Hello all following this thread, The tank is repaired and a picture is below. This work was done by Emco Plastics, Cedar Grove, NJ. When looking at the prior tank picture, the drain value and the pump connection lines (although not the tank connection fitting) are both visible on the right side. I pulled the tank myself bringing it to Emco and it took them ~3 weeks to complete work, including fabricating the pump and drain connection fittings. Again see pic. The drain fitting is 1" diameter (left) and the pump fitting is 1 1/2" (right). The prior pump fitting was 1", and I'm planning on stepping the new fitting to 1", as I believe this will be a more effective match to the pump. Also, I'm planning on using PEX for these new connections. As I understand Emco's tasks here, the following was done, 1.) old metal fitting were removed, 2.) matching plastic patches were "welded" in place 3.) new matching plastic, threaded fitting were fabricated 4.) these new fittings were spin "welded" in place and. 5.) fittings were sealed and all work tested for leaks. Total cost ~$360.00 Here is the repaired tank picture with explanation. The 2 new outlets are at the picture bottom, drain is left and pump right sides. In this picture the tank is on its end and the orientation from the fully installed tank is to turn the tank 90degrees counterclockwise, i.e. you are now looking at the tank's right end. The prior metal fittings are sitting in the ~lower/middle of the picture. Drain lower left and pump center, extending to top. In the upper part of the picture the fill spout is visible, upper left and the overflow spout, lower right. Your comments about securing the tank in place are all helpful/useful, and I'm currently planning on using marine plywood, as suggested by the prior owner. Kay's comments about a rubber mat makes me rethink the plywood. However, plywood allows using plastic blocks, replacing the wood, and securing these to the marine plywood panel to prevent the tank moving. The prior owner indicated previously the tank has a tendency to "walk" toward the storage bay door, and the wooden blocks, secured to the prior plywood panel prevented this movement. Unfortunately, the leaking rotted this floor panel, and marine plywood will hold up to occasional water spills. I'm planning on doing the tank re-install Friday, 5 March with some plumbing help, as I do not have PEX experience nor the needed crimp tool. This RV repair person has both. Please let me know any questions and/or re-install directions. Thank you for your help and interest.

All following this topic, I signed the contract today, for EMCO to do the work, so I'm expecting 2-3 weeks for completion. Their work includes 2 new fittings, drain and water pump connections, to be installed in the tank. The est. cost is $300 for both the plastic welding repairs and fabricating/installing the 2 fittings. I'll have pictures once the repairs are complete and will post here. Additionally, I'm expecting to use PEX piping to make connection from the tank to the pump, as PEX is now available in 1" piping. If you all have some experience/insights here, please do pass them along. Also, I'm looking for any insights/recommendations for securing the tank in the water bay/compartment. Thank you.

All, helpful information and I'll evaluate adding a rooftop antenna, as there was previously one installed for a satellite TV connection. Also, for folks adding a router to your hotspot, what can you all share about the router's added-value to the setup? I'm understanding that most hotspot devices allow a dozen+ device connections at one-time, so my initial understanding is that a router would not be needed. Please let me know anyone's perspective/understanding about the router's added value. Thank you.

All, I appreciate everyone's replies and insights. Also, a respondent has encouraged me to continue to describe the repair activities and process here. After making one SikaFlex 221 sealant repair attempt with limited success and your all feedback, I located a somewhat convenient plastics fabricator, Emco Plastics, in NJ. I was able to remove the tank and transport it to Emco, yesterday. This firm appears from my research and yesterday's conversation to be a well informed and a knowledgeable crew. They will do both the plastic and spin welding for 2 new fittings, drain and pump. The drain fitting is visible in the prior picture and behind it, same side, is the pump connection fitting. At this point the estimated price range is $250-$350, and this might change based on the fittings needed. I'm expecting to have this work completed in 2-3 weeks. As some background, this tank was the original installation in a MCI bus conversion done in ~2000. I purchased the coach from the original owner, then operated as a celebrity coach for industry participants ~ 1 year ago. There is indication this drain had been leaking for some time, years?, given the plywood layer/section under the drain is deteriorated and will need to be replaced/patched. The Emco plastics fabricator, doing the initial tank inspection yesterday, did confirm that any attempt to fix and/or seal the leak with any approach other than plastics/spin welding would only be temporary and fail. So again I appreciate everyone's experience and feedback here, and finding what appears to be a competent plastics fabricator for these repairs. I'll provide follow-on updates and a brief reinstallation description as these activities occur. Also, since I've limited pumping experience, I may have some added questions for folks following this thread, particularly about rebuilding and making the pump connection. I intend to do this with PVC piping. Thank you for everyone's help and insights.

All, Very helpful information. I'm currently a Verizon mobile customer so I'll evaluate the possibility of adding their device to our current plan, with expanded data. Also, I'll have a look at the T-mobile/Spirit options as these appear to be lower-cost and more flexible. Thank you. -- Jon