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Posts posted by jon48

  1. On 9/6/2021 at 10:21 AM, rossboyer said:

    The only problem I have had was that I knocked one of the magnets off the side slide window. They had given me a spare. Glued it on and have been using for at lest 5 years since. 

    Are the side window magnets mounted inside like the front shade or are they on the outside?  If they are on the outside, how much do they stick out?

  2. 1 hour ago, manholt said:


    Your TV is a disposable item!  Look at all the Links moonwink recommended...then stop and think!

    Not only is the TV a disposable item, it's unlikely that I will ever watch it (except mine is needed to set up the Wally).  I've never been one to lay in bed and watch the boob tube.

    You mentioned a suppression system.  As my wife pointed out, I just spent nearly $3k doing a 120k service on our toad plus 4 tires.  So why grumble about a fire suppression cost?  She already knows that with her artificial knee and hands that cannot grasp she isn't going to be going out that window.

    Does that system cover only the engine or the whole interior of the coach?  And what about suffocation?  I am familiar with in place halon and/or co2 systems and these are not systems one can use and expect to breath.  I guess perhaps it alarms prior to release and hopefully give one enough time to find the latch on the main door?

    I did watch all of Moonwink's links.  That one solid frame ladder looked interesting so I'm gonna see if I can locate one of those.  The video didn't have any specifics.

  3. Thanks everyone for the excellent replies to my query.  It's unlikely that I would go so far as a fire suppression system but I have thought about it.  I'm not so worried about exiting in a rollover or collision, although nothing to be casual about, but it's a fire that will require a rapid, no-thinking automatic response.  I expect in other situations, unless a medical emergency  is involved, there is more time to deal with getting out.  And yes, I will need to do a few practice dry runs once I come up with a solution.  I found the comment about the bedspread to be insightful.  I was thinking towel which is obviously inferior.

    My concern with a folding ladder is that it will lay against the side of the RV and possibly prevent getting a good foot hold.  But I have not yet checked the suggested links to look at the products.

    I didn't measure the window length but the TV is 32" diagonal so the length is probably about 28 inches.  It looks wide enough but looks can be deceiving.

    I know belly down is the way to go but my concern is how to get in that position, the picture does not show it very well, but the tv is mounted to the face of a cabinet structure that extends into the room more than a foot.  So little room for getting up onto the flat surface under the tv and in front of the window.  Maybe I need to install a grab bar across the top of the cabinet at the inner edge.

    Thanks for all the links, I will check them all out.

  4. My Tiffin (37ft DP) has a 16" tall emergency exit window in bedroom that drops, no hinges.  It is 7+ ft off the ground.  And it is above a cupboard so maybe 3ft off floor.

    My wife & I are in our 70's.  I don't see this emergency exit as being practical at our age.  I need a good idea about how to navigate getting through this window and safely to the ground in the event of a fire in the forward part of my coach.

    There is a TV mounted into a fairly sturdy frame, I am thinking of putting a handicap handhold mounted horizontally under the TV (even with the top edge of the window).  That would provide something to hang onto while wiggling out.....maybe.  But then there is the drop to the ground.

    There must be a better solution to get out in case of a fire.



  5. OP here.  I didn't know Blue Ox sold a screen.  Thanks for the comments, I have found all to be useful and worth consideration.  The Wrangler I will tow is a stock '09 but it was well treated by the prior owner and front end looks pretty good.  Since I have a full width shield mounted in the rear and a Blue Ox setup I'll review all these comments again & put a few miles under my belt before deciding.  


  6. Towing a jeep wrangler.  I've seen a number of comments on the web regarding damage from rocks, etc.  My Tiffin DP has a large shield hanging in the back but I doubt it can get provide more than minimal protection.

    The jeep has an 'open' style radiator grill so I see the possibility of rocks passing through the grill and hitting the actual radiator fins.

    What about the windshield?

    A jeep aftermarket shop suggested some sort of coating rather than hassling with a vinyl bra which may buff the paint underneath it.

    Looking for suggestions.

  7. 5 hours ago, manholt said:

    At each fuel stop, I walk around coach and press in on the Nut covers, they too fall off.  I look at my oil hubs at end of each trip...not daily.

    Thanks for this tip.  I've already lost one lug nut cap somewhere along the line.  I guess losing covers is more common than I thought.  There is a lot of new stuff to learn.

  8. The engine is an ISB 6.7 360HP.  

    jleamont:  thanks for great info, especially on the straight pull of valve.

    My interest in these cables is that I am required to have a non-commercial class B drivers license and part of the test will be pulling these cables.  It's good to know that the sideways pull may cause a reseating issue.  

  9. Yes, confirming that my wrench fits perfectly on the rear dually hub.  I've been puzzling over this one for many months.

    As I turn it there is a click as each flat passes by and the cover is noticeably looser.  Because it clicks I don't know if I must keep turning it or if the click indicates it's as far as needs to turn.  Or is the click an indication of tightness where I should tighten or loosen 'x' number of clicks? 

    I don't want to mess with it until I know how it is supposed to work.

  10. Thanks all for the comments.  I'm sorry I forgot to mention I have a dryer.  It's maintenance interval is 36 mo.

    My tanks have pulls in the wheel well so I don't have to crawl under to do the purge.  I crawled underneath to try to determine what was what, couldn't figure it out so posted this query.

    I just found a freightliner doc that shows a picture of the tanks set up as a demo floor model (not installed on a chassis).  It shows the wet tank with a "heated automatic moisture ejector".  I guess that is my 3rd pull wire.  I have to double check this. 

    I find it odd that I'm supposed to determine if water/oil blows out on manual purge but I really can't operate a pull wire and look underneath at the same time.

    I have located the dryer, aft of the rear axle, and just out of curiosity tried to follow the line to see where the air compressor is located but I cannot find it.  I presume it is directly attached to the engine (Cummings) but I'm uncertain of that statement.  The aforementioned doc shows the compressor in the rear attached to the pax side rail but all I find there is the exhaust ATD for pollution control.

  11. My Tiffin RED on a Freightliner chassis has a dryer and auto-purge.  But the tanks have manual pulls.  Questions:

    1) why are there 2 pulls on my pax side tank and only 1 on driver side?  What does that 2nd pull do that the other tank doesn't have a second pull?  I crawled underneath to try to figure it out but all I could determine is the location of the valve, not why it is there.  I do know that I need to exercise it ev. 6 mo's and it is an early warning sign for failure of the dryer.

    2) The manuals do not refer to a wet tank but I see references online, including this forum.  I presume the pax side on my rig is a wet tank because it has 2 pulls.  But what does that really mean?

    3) Freightliner manual refers to tanks as primary and secondary in regards to braking.  But Tiffin refers to Front air ride and Rear air ride.  Comments?

    I'm asking all these questions so that I can be informed about how things work.

  12. Just to wrap up this thread, and for anyone in the future with same question, I spoke to Tiffin and they indicated that there was not a specific type or specification of foam used in the wiring tray under the bed and that I could use any sort of spray foam.  Thinking later about the phone call he left me with the impression (but did not say) that there is no need to put anything back in that space.  I will certainly spray some foam into the area where the wires pass from the engine area into the tray to prevent any fumes or insects and rodents from entering that wiring tray (it's not really a tray, it's a compartment under the floor that contains wires and plumbing).

  13. 1 hour ago, kaypsmith said:

    Here is an interesting read on foam insulation as a fire retardant. https://www.finehomebuilding.com/forum/dow-great-stuff-fireblock-watch-out

    I worked in a mobile home factory back in the 70's

    Thanks for the interesting info.  I haven't read the link yet but it seems appropriate for what I am searching for.  I did check the can of "Great Stuff" and it sez "combustible". It is made by Dow so I'll look for their MSDS sheet. 

    The area I'm looking to apply this stuff is under the bed and just behind the rear axle.  So not directly over the engine but fairly near by.  Maybe I'll just put a little squirt into the passthrough from the underside of the carriage into the wireway to plug the hole rather than filling up the whole thing like it was before.


  14. 1 hour ago, WILDEBILL308 said:

    I am in the camp of why not call Tiffin and se what they say.

    I would be surprised if they had a can of foam.  This looks to me like it was applied from an industrial use rig, like a hose with air power.  For all the foam on my rig I would estimate it would take cases of cans to do the job in a complete build.  Unlikely that they use cans.

    I'm satisfied with the phone assistance I have had from Tiffin (so far) and so will just use the can I have laying around my basement to fill the space and stabilize the wiring that was disturbed when I dug out the damaged wiring.

  15. 1 hour ago, DickandLois said:

    Thinking from your information, that you cut the wire, repaired the problem after running it through the intended wire way. 

    Did that.  Rather than fight the issue of feeding the wire up the track alongside the slide, where there is absolutely  no room to work, I cut the harness and soldered the individual wires, using shrink tubing on each wire and then tubing over the whole mass, it's done and apparently working.  I say apparently because I have not taken a spin with it yet and it always seemed to work a few times before failing after a taking the rig out.

  16. 1 hour ago, manholt said:

    Your coach should still be under warranty!  

    You are correct but I live at least a week's drive from Red Bay.  Before the Stay in Place orders I was intending to go there rather than do it myself (plus all the potential problems of social distancing to get there and then stay there for the repair).  With the "stay at home" situation I have plenty of time so I decided to see if I could find the problem.  I found it and so that is that.  I still have an issue with my right mirror camera and after I see what is happening with the world in the next month or two I may decide to go to Red Bay to address that issue.  Or, if it is not too difficult to swap out the camera I may try that myself.  

  17. Thanks for the comments.  The coach is a 2019 Tiffin 37BA.  The specifics for the query is that the wire harness for the Lippert Controller on the bedroom slide was throwing an error which was that the hall sensor power was shorted.  I left coach at a shop for repair and they had it 3 mo's.  They replaced both motors and one of the 2 harnesses.  I picked up coach and within no time at all the error re-appeared.  Since everything is shutdown due to CoVid I figured I'd look around myself since I did not want to return to the prior vendor.  Within an hour I had determined that the likely problem was the wire I could see under the coach pinched between the coach frame and the floor.  I don't know how they construct the floor but this wire apparently had 'jumped' out of it's wireway and the floor was installed on top of it.  I suppose after a few thousand miles the insulation finally wore through and grounded.  It took me less than 1 day to find the problem that consumed 3 mo's of someone else's time.  Tiffin sent me a new wire harness.

    The wire is fed to the slide from under the bed.  There is a wireway there and a lot of various wires and pipes run through it and filled with the foam.  It was easy to break away and clean out to access the bad harness.  This foam can be seen at many other locations around my rig, including in the corners of the front cap, where the mirrors attach and at various other places.  It appears that it is used to, among other things, stabilize wiring & plumbing so that it does not chaff/vibrate/or otherwise be easily assessable.

    I think "Great Stuff" would work fine but I was seeking more info in case there is a reason to use something else.  I don't think Great Stuff is a problem with the above mentioned fire concerns.  Perhaps the Tiffin product is easier/cheaper to use and used in bulk.  Perhaps that product is not available "in a can".  I asked to see if anyone here had a better idea than "Great Stuff".  It looks like that is what I will be using.


  18. My coach has a lot of areas that has some sort of foam looking insulation.  It is black, or dark grey in color and can be easily broken into pieces or cut with a knife.  It looks somewhat like the spray foam insulation called "great stuff" except it is not as dense as that product.  See attached.

    I had to remove some to repair a shorted wire.  I'd like to replace the insulation as best as I can.

    Is there a product name for this stuff, otherwise I plan on using the above mentioned "great stuff".  I'd rather not go that route if I can find the correct product.

    Any ideas?


  19. 1 hour ago, WILDEBILL308 said:

    jon48, welcome to the forum. Yes it is better to get 4 corner weights, but just getting axle weights and using the 60/40 formula will help. I like to run a couple pounds (say 5lbs) over what the table says just for a small cushion. That automatically compensates for temperature change and elevation.

    Keep in mind some tires/brands sidewalls flex more than others. This picture shows my gap and bulge with Continentals on my Coach.


    TIRE GAP.jpg

    Thanks for posting this.  It is quite similar to what I see here.  I just boosted the pressure up to 105# and cannot observe a difference in the way things 'look'.

    I will accept that the bulge is normal.  I just wanted to make sure.

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