roblaura

We have a Garmin and a Rand McNally GPSs (plus whatever company's software is behind our tow vehicle GPS). The 7" Rand McNally has worked better for us, but the newer Garmin RV GPS appears to be closing the gap. A couple of RM features are especially helpful. Number one is that it lists all names that apply to an upcoming turn road (e.g. US 98, SR 106, Shelby Rd.) Garmin still picks one name, which may or may not be on the road signs. Having all the names helps to visually verify that we have the correct secondary road. The other feature is that RM lists the current interstate mile marker on the display. This helps when using Next Exit, or coordinating with the atlas map (which we also use). Some folks like to use their smart phones or pads, but we prefer the GPS because it does not use up our limited monthly data allowance, and is not dependent of cell towers (the satellite is always there away from urban areas).

Driving/towing a wide RV sometimes requires navigating challenging situations. One of those is passing other wide vehicles on narrow curves and bridges. The attached photo was taken on Historic Route 30, which runs along the Columbia River in Oregon providing scenic views of numerous water falls, and the river gorge. The road is often congested with tourists. More importantly for RVers, many of the tight curves and old bridges are too narrow for wider vehicles to pass each other. The trailer in the photo was about half way across the bridge with the RV driver decided to also cross. They got stuck between the bridge railing and a stone wall on the opposite side. Neither could back up much because of long lines of cars behind them. They worked for over a half hours to inch past each other. Both vehicles were damaged in the process. There should be signs at entrances to the road warning vehicles of sharp curves and narrow bridges. Once on the road, a solution might have been to have an adult passenger walk across the bridge, and stop any other wide vehicle from entering the bridge until their RV completed the crossing.

As others have said, the ideal floor plan depends on preferences, priorities, and how you plan to use your coach. Our diesel pushers have been a 2007 Tiffin Phaeton, and currently a 2012 Itasca Meridian 40U. We use ours about 5 months during the summer and fall, so we are half-timers. We have customized it a bit for our preferences: Took out the electric fire place and replaced it with three drawers, one shallow one for odd and ends, another big enough for a small printer, and a third for a lateral file. We also had the area along the wall, behind where the recliner sat, modified to create a small desk with a pull out drawer for my laptop. Then replaced the uncomfortable recliner with a regular desk chair (If I want a recliner, I just use the front passenger seat turned around. My wife and I are fine with a queen size mattress, so we took out the king bed and replaced it with a comfortable queen. So we now have room to walk around the bed, and more easily access the wide wardrobe. We used the Tampa RV Super Show to clarify our priorities and identify make and model preferences before shopping for a new coach. Our priorities include: An affordable price! One that will fit the RV lot we own in the Smokey Mountains, and other large rig campgrounds when we travel Front lounge area so the driving seats can be turned around for additional comfortable seating in the lounge area Main TV located such that it faces the couch (the 40U has it at a 45 degree angle opposite the couch). A large kitchen with residential refrigerator with ice maker (my wife also likes to cook), a wall vent to the outside for the cooktop and microwave/convection oven, a pull out pantry, and adequate storage. She keeps cooking items in cabinets/drawers around stove, and other dishes in the opposite side wall cabinets. A large amount of bedroom clothes storage, especially hang up clothes. A single front windshield that is almost vertical so that there is less reflection from the dash (we had to put dark towels on the Phaeton dash) An engine with enough torque to climb mountains pulling a toad without slowing down too much (our Cummins has 1050 lbs of torque) Separate toilet and shower rooms (our 40' has only one toilet) Roller shades and power front shades

Hi Rich, Interesting theory. The driver's side rear-view mirror is located next to the driver's side window. When in motion, there is a lot of vibration due to wind turbulence off the mirror assembly. That window also gets direct sunlight when parked at our camp site. Any ideas about how to remedy the "problem?" Rob

Our 2012 Itasca Meridian 40U makes a snapping sound under two circumstances: 1. When driving the coach, there is an intermittent snapping sound emanating from the exterior wall area near the driver's seat. It is almost always present when I first start driving the coach. It is a 3-4 level on a 10 pt. loudness scale. 2. When parked on hot days - high temp above 80 degrees - we hear a loud single SNAP (level 7-8) around 6pm when the temperature starts to drop. The sound appears to be coming from the front roof area on the driver's side. I have checked the roof, slide, and driver's seat area, and can find nothing amiss. The coach runs well and all components seem to be operating normally. Any ideas about this? Our biggest concern is that this is a warning of something preparing to break or malfunction. Rob & Laura

I have a 35' 2010 Georgetown on a 2009 Ford f53 chassis with a V10 gas engine. I would like to decrease "road wander" and "wind drift" from passing trucks and cross winds. It is not "white knuckle" level, but it could be more stable and less tiring. During my research, several persons have pointed out the importance of proper tire pressure based on vehicle weight and tire manufacturer (Goodyear) pressure tables. Where can I find these tables? The coach came with 80 lbs pressure. I increased it to 90 lbs, which helped, but I do not want to overdo it. Everyone seems to recommend a steering stabilizer for reduce road wander and wind drift. Three have been recommended: SteerSafe, Safe T Plus, and Roadmaster Reflex Steering Stabilizer. Which one(s) has/have proved most effective for a recent model f53 chassis? Some have also recommended a larger rear stabilizer bar to reduce sway and improve overall stability in cross winds and on crown roads. What say ye? Rob More Tampa, FL