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alflorida

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Posts posted by alflorida

  2. Posted · Report reply

    On 3/20/2019 at 11:37 AM, desertdeals69 said:

    I installed 4 12 volt 100 amp lithium batteries replacing 6 6 volt AGM batteries.  The performance is spectacular, ran the Xantrax SW 3000 for about 17 hours overnight and the voltage was still at 12.9-13.0 volts.  With the AGMs it would have dropped to 12.3 volts with the same load, refrigerator and all the electronics that I have.   I have not charged the new batteries yet because I have not reset the charger settings, the charge is what they had from the factory.  The new batteries are much lighter, 120 lbs to 420 lbs for the AGMs.  The amperage for the lithiums is 400 and the amperage for AGMs is 660.  With the lithiums you can use almost all without the voltage drop and with the AGMs you can use about half.  The model I used is the same footprint as a golf cart battery however it is 12 volt.  The connections are on the upper front side and is easier to hook up the connections.  The only drawback is the cost but I think it is worth it considering the performance.

    Lithium batteries at 12.9 to 13.0 volts are about 80-90% DISCHARGED.  You need to charge those batteries.  Fully charged lithium is about 13.4V.  It is really hard to monitor the SOC (State of Charge) using only voltage as there is so little voltage change between fully charged and fully discharged.   

  3. Posted · Report reply

    Have you checked the 

    On 3/21/2019 at 8:27 PM, airagone said:

    Shopping for drive tires, 38 ft Newmar, originals are 275/70R22.5 - very few to choose from at this size.

    So has anyone upped the size to a 275/80 with good results?

    Southern travel only so no snow.

    Thanks all

    If both tires are load range "G" are you sure there is an increase in load capacity?  Have you look online for the diameter of the tires?  If the 275/80 is much larger it could rub on something.  Especially the steer tires.  

  5. Posted · Report reply

    All good road from Flagstaff to Kanab.  Stay on US-89.  US-89A has a steep climb to Jacobs Lake and then a steep drop down to Fredonia.  From Fredonia to I-15 on SR-389 and SR-59 is all good 2 lane road. 

    US-89A is a good road, just pretty steep.  No problem for the Phaeton, as long as you have mountain driving experience.  

    If you did take US-89A you can spend a couple of nights in Jacobs Lake at the National Forest CG or at the RV park there and drive your Toad to the North Rim. 

  8. Posted · Report reply

    This is not exactly about "campgrounds", but I don't see a "boondocking" section in this forum. 

    Boondocking and dry camping topics appear from time to time in this forum.  Sometimes folks w/o much experience boondocking talk about running their generators and just going out and parking in the boondocks.

    This video very nicely presents the 9 major items most boondockers would like for others to think about when they look for a place to park in the boonies.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3751kg4jhts&feature=youtu.be

  9. Posted · Report reply

    I just went to Google Maps https://www.google.com/maps and got directions from Charlotte, NC to North Sidney, NS with no problems.  

    However, it is good to note that there isn't a lot of choice in routes to North Sidney once you enter Canada. You pretty much follow the main hwy though NB & NS. 

    About ferries to NL.  Consider taking the long ferry to the western end of NL and then the short ferry either to or from NL.  It is about 600 miles from the western end of NL to the eastern end where the short ferry is located, so the cost of the fuel comes close to the same as the extra cost of the long ferry ride.  Additionally the drive on TC-1 to or from St Johns to Port Aux Basques is kind of dull and boring, especially since you already drove it once. 

    It is best to allow 6-9 weeks in NL.  There is lots to see and lots of driving.  

  10. Posted · Report reply

    If you want a structured trip where they make all the places to stay and what to see then the caravans are for you.  You will also have to pick up and move on the day and time they say.  No staying an extra day or two, even if the weather is not what you want to drive in. 

    Lots of people, including us, have made the trip w/o problems.  The roads through Canada and inside AK are generally in good shape. Many times better than 2 lane roads in the lower 48.   Yes there is some construction with gravel and splashing dirt/mud, but just slow down and take your time.  It is best if you plan on no more than 200 miles in a day.  Slow down and enjoy the trip.  Most of the roads are 2 lane and 50-55mph speed limit. 

    We spent 4 1/2 months on our trip from the Washington/BC border to AK and back to the US border.  Really enjoyed the trip.  If you are interested here is a link to our blog of our trip: http://downtheroadaroundthebend.blogspot.com/2017/01/alaska-trip-index-april-26september-6.html

  11. Posted · Report reply

    5 hours ago, RAYIN said:

    If I may, I'll chime in; look at the chart here, it requires section width of the tire for the calculation, now assume your exact tire size is not listed, a simple measurement is not adequate. In addition to preventing dual tires from rubbing  together and eventually failing, there should be enough clearance to prevent stones from lodging between the tires and busting your windshield if you are unlucky enough to be following that truck/MH. Ever get behind a dump truck with a sign on the tail-gate saying ""stay back 300 feet, not responsible for damage"?

    Please read my reply again.

    Quote

    I don't understand why I can't take a tape measure and measure the distance between the center tread groves on both installed tires on my dual tires and come up the the the "Dual Spacing" on my tires and wheels.   I believe this distance is determined by the wheels installed and does not change when different tires are installed.  I do understand that wider tires require larger Dual Spacing.  However if the distance I measure is greater than the Minimum Dual Spacing required for the new tires, then I should be good to go with new tires.

    Would you explain why my thoughts are incorrect?

    I am referring to dually spacing on my installed wheels to verify that the spacing is far enough apart to install different tires that the mfg specs on the tire are less than the spacing I have on my wheels.

    For example the dually tire spacing on my diesel pusher measures 13 3/8" between the inner tire center tread and the outer tire center tread.  So it looks to me that if the mfg of a tire states the minimum spacing is 12 1/2" then there should not be a problem installing them on my wheels. 

    That is why I am wondering why I can't just measure the distance between the tread groves to find the existing dually tire spacing on a RV to see if there is enough spacing for different tires.

  12. Posted · Report reply

    On 10/10/2018 at 1:40 PM, tireman9 said:

    Dual Spacing is a function of wheel offset and tire width.

    You might read THIS post on the topic on my blog.

    Tireman9,

    You write in your blog post that " there is also a CRITICAL dimension that you can't measure with a tape measure and that is called "Minimum Dual Spacing". "

    I don't understand why I can't take a tape measure and measure the distance between the center tread groves on both installed tires on my dual tires and come up the the the "Dual Spacing" on my tires and wheels.   I believe this distance is determined by the wheels installed and does not change when different tires are installed.  I do understand that wider tires require larger Dual Spacing.  However if the distance I measure is greater than the Minimum Dual Spacing required for the new tires, then I should be good to go with new tires.

    Would you explain why my thoughts are incorrect?

  13. Posted · Report reply

    20 hours ago, captainmitch said:

    Dealer Mileage Fraud question.

    We bought our used class A coach a month ago in Kentucky. It was advertised as being in "Great Cond" with mileage stated as 70,000.

     Picked it up,  the (odometer read 70K), and headed west for the summer. Yesterday in Arizona I hit the trip counter to zero it and run a fuel consumption check and low and behold it scrolls thru to a mileage number of 120,000 !! 50k more than the dealer claimed and put on the bill of sale and extended service plan app. Now we have a unit with almost double the mileage we thought and fraudulent mileage shown not only on the vehicle registration title, but also on the service contract (I'm sure that the contract is now useless) .

    Anybody got any advise ??

    Curious.  Are you saying the odometer was left in "trip" setting and had 70,000 miles.  Then when you reset it and switched it to the true odometer reading it showed 120,000 miles? 

    What year, make and model of MH do you have?

  14. Posted · Report reply

    11 hours ago, huffypuff said:

    Like I said before it is stated right on the dipstick.  

    If the former owner change the fluid and used standard transmission fluid, what is written on the dipstick doesn't matter much.

    For about $28 and a little more for the fluid type check, you not only know for sure the correct fluid is in there, but you also learn if there is excessive wear in the components. 

    Not a bad investment in my opinion. 

  15. Posted · Report reply

    Where in Nevada are you going?  I-70 ends in Utah at I-15.  If you are going to central NV, pick up US-50 on Salina, UT to US-6 in Delta, UT.

    Just be careful once you get west of Denver.  You have some long steep climbs and drops.  Going downhill slow down, get into a lower gear so the engine braking does most of the work.  If you ride your brakes at 55-60mph you will likely overheat your brakes, experience brake fade and have serious problems. Manually shift into 3rd gear and 40mph if need be.  Going up hill, downshift early to keep your RPM's up to the 3500-4500 range to keep from overheating the transmission & engine.

  16. Posted · Report reply

    On 8/24/2018 at 7:48 AM, jenronn said:

    I understand that Allison started shipping transmissions with Transynd  already in the transmission . I have a 2005 workhorse with an Allison 1000 and was wondering if it came with transsynd or dextron. I am almost at 50,000 miles so I am wondering if I am due for a full change or just a filter? If  it isDextron I plan to convert.  Any help would be appreciated.  VIN# is 5B4MP67G453403851

    Your main question is trying to find out if your transmission has 100% transynd, no transynd, or a mixture.  I didn't see much of an answer to that question.  Contact https://www.blackstone-labs.com/   and verify that they can check that the fluid is transynd or not.  For about $28 you should get a definitive answer. 

  17. Posted · Report reply

    If you have Medicare and by Medicare Supplement Part F, it covers up to $50,000 in Canada.

    Basic Medicare "sort of says" if you are traveling directly though Canada they will cover your medical expenses.  There is no written definition of how quickly you need to be traveling through Canada, say from the lower 48 to Alaska.  There is info in the Medicare book about it.

    I assume you are over 65, since there is an "Over 70" bullet at the topic.

  20. Posted · Report reply

    The chart is for the newer 6 speed transmission, which was introduced in the E-350 & E-450 chassis in I believe 2016.  The F series (truck chassis) got the 6 speed earlier.

    However it looks like the F-53 chassis still only has the old 5 speed, even in the 2018 chassis. 

    The F-53 is used in Class A and the E-350 & E-450 us used in the Class C.

  21. Posted · Report reply

    13 hours ago, manholt said:

    Alflorida.

    Most, not all, National Parks, can not accommodate a 35 foot (probably closer to 37') with slides!  Since the OP does not list what they have, we can only guess. 

    You have the perfect size to go anywhere!  Byron is in the same boat, I am...outside looking in! :D

    I have found that most National Parks have some campgrounds with some campsites which will accommodate up to 40 foot RV's.  Sometimes you will have your rear bumper sticking out the back of the paved or gravel parking pad, but the RV will still fit. 

    On the other hand, getting a reservation during the busy season for large RV's is a problem.  Determining which campsites will accommodate your rig and finding it available is sometimes very difficult.

    One big exception is Yellowstone, which requires you to supply the total length of the RV and the toad you are pulling (or the trailer and tow vehicle) in order to make a reservation.  Anything over about 50' to maybe 1 or 2 campsites at 60' total RV & Toad length is a problem. But if you are going in with a 40' motorhome w/o a toad there are quite a few campsites you can reserve.  Note: one minor detail. At Yellowstone, reservations for the following year start on May 1st of the previous year.  Waiting until spring of the year you are going and you probably won't be able to make a reservation.

    Lots of National Forest CG's will handle 40' RV's.  For detailed NF CG's go to: https://www.forestcamping.com/

     

  22. Posted · Report reply

    9 hours ago, xvrfczm4 said:

    The issue is apparently the higher one goes devices like GFCI outlets and most circuit breakers cannot dissipate heat rapidly enough and the unit overheats (like it would in a short) and trips the circuit. Conveniently, GFCI outlets and most circuit breakers are apparently only certified to 2000 meters.

    OK, so a c/b degrades some when going up in elevation.  To me that means if the c/b is rated at 15amps a sea level, then at 10,000 feet it is now rated at 14 or even 13 amps.  Even at 13 amps, unless you are plugging in a toaster or a 1500 watt electric space heater the circuit should work just fine. 

    I think you can disregard all this altitude stuff as the problem unless you are tripping the c/b with a space heater.  

    You need to be trouble shooting the problem with a volt meter to find out where the voltage is missing.  If the c/b is tripping then you have an overload. 

    If the GFCI is tripping (that is a different problem than a c/b tripping) then that is more difficult to identify.  But again the GFCI tripping is not an altitude problem.  The GFCI tripping means the total current going back on the neutral return wire is less than what came in on the hot wire.

  23. Posted · Report reply

    For RV Parks I use http://www.rvparkreviews.com/  to determine which park I want to stay at. 

    Why don't you stay inside the park at Gros Ventre Campground?  This places you close to everything inside the park.  http://www.rvparkreviews.com/regions/wyoming/grand-teton-national-park/gros-ventre-campground-concessionaire-operated-12845

    Plus there are other CG's inside the park.  More info here:  https://www.gtlc.com/rv

  24. Posted · Report reply

    On 7/1/2018 at 9:25 PM, kaypsmith said:

    How can a vehicle be towed 4 down with the parking brake on? Either you must place the parking brake off at sometime in the procedure, or you will burn out the brake or tires or both. Welcome to the forum, not trying argumentative just thinking out loud.

    While you are correct, if the parking brake is left on you will either ruin the tires pretty shortly or burn up the rear brakes, I am pretty sure they just forgot to put in their narrative, that they release the parking brake before towing.

  25. Posted · Report reply

    23 hours ago, brown774 said:

    Well I ordered the new ice maker and installed it but now it will not

    fill the ice tray. The electric plug only goes in one way, there is water to the fill valve, but not to the tray. I could not find a circuit breaker or fuse near the fill valve. ???? One heads up to anyone attempting this RR be sure to determine if it is a rear fill or side fill, you have to cut out the proper piece on the filler.

     

    Do you have 120V at the plug?  Is the RV inverter turned on?  The fridge ice maker normally plugs into an outlet powered by the inverter so the ice maker will operate while dry camping.   You could switch the ice maker cord to the other outlet, which powers the heater element for the cooling system, to see if that helps.

    Also you can carefully pop off the cover (approximately 3"x3") on the front of the ice maker and manually turn the gears and if it has power the motor will start running and go though a cycle.  As I remember there is 5/16" screw or nut head on the gear on the one I worked on several (10?) years ago.  The cover is a little hard to pop off, be careful not to damage it.  Be sure to look for the arrow pointing in the direction to turn the gear.

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