dickandlois
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Posts posted by dickandlois
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Pat, How long sense the Air Dryer been serviced? Has the Air dryer ever been replaced?
It maybe much less expensive to have the dryer replaced, rebuilt units are not expensive when one figures in the labor to resurrect the old one.
Rich.
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On 11/7/2020 at 10:35 AM, Belthasar said:Hey All,
First time posting. My mechanic and I are scratching our collective heads on an issue my new-to-me rv is having and I thought I would reach out to the collective wisdom here. I have read a number of posts and suggestions relating to similar sounding issues but wanted to get this (and some history) in front of the group.
I bought this vehicle about 3 months ago, and it has largely been in the shop since for general chassis maintenance and some repairs but things keep popping up. The issue I am currently chasing down is a frustrating one - the vehicle runs fine after initially warming up, accelerates on WOT just fine, gets down the road nicely. After approximately 30 minutes of easy travel, the engine starts hesitating on heavy throttle, then will begin backfiring and near stalling out under load - "load" being going uphill slightly or trying to speed up. If I stop on the side of the road for 20-30 minutes I can make it another 15 minutes or so with very light throttle use. If it sits overnight, all the above can be repeated. When I first drove it home, It did initially overheat but was not operated in that condition so im fairly confident the head / block isn't cracked.
What has been done so far -
Full Tune up - Plugs, High end solid core wires, coil, dist. cap, rotor, timing checked.
Radiator pulled - one of the cores was shot so the radiator was rebuilt, new water pump, new hoses. (After buying it, my mechanic informed me that it didnt have a fan cowling, so after two months of hunting one down, it now runs nice and cool)
Gas tank pulled, (No signs of trash in the tank) internal fuel pump replaced, fuel filters replaced.
The prior owner did tell me that he had the carburetor replaced, so for me at least I suspect that it may not be setup correctly - (but until some time of steady use, it runs fine? - I would suspect a bad carb setup would always run bad?) Am willing to entertain a replacement with an upgrade if one is available.
I am about to go pick it up from where I dropped it off last night in frustration - but intend to run it tonight with the doghouse off to check for any grounding / sparking issues.
Are there any other obvious things I should be looking at?
Thanks in advance!
What year is your coach?
Does it have a throttle body Quadrajet carb or throttle body injector system ?
Have all the engine Vacuum lines been checked or replaced and how long ago where all the lines replaced?
When was the last time the distributor and ignition circuit been rebuilt?
This old thread might be some help.
Rich.
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ddoud, Turning off/on the red Battery Disconnect Switch quickly gets the house battery charging.
The switch mentioned, could be the issue., Loose connection? when you toggle the switch -the high current load on the house batteries might cause an ark, this might make a temporary connection that is lost when driving, due to vibration. Driving an RV down the road can loosen up a number of items /including electrical connections.
Ray mentioned the batteries as a possible issue. Huff mentioned everything should still be under warranty.
Rich.
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3 hours ago, cvdell said:Last trip, for first time, my speedometer almost stopped working. At low speeds it stayed on zero. At 50 mph it would read 3 - 4 mph (I've had the coach 15 yrs, know how fast I'm going by the tach).
All other gauges were functional. Cruise control worked. Odometer turned over, but at very reduced rate - probably corresponding to the reduced reading from the speedometer.
On the return trip 3 days later, speedometer worked properly.
Chassis is 1998 Freightliner XC with ISB/MT643 powertrain. I looked at wires under dash - nothing was obviously loose (but, there are several dozen wires there, no idea which drives the speedometer).
Suggestions?I have had the same issues or related problems with an older Freightliner chassis.
There is a possibility of a poor connection at the speed sensor ( it has 2 sensors mounted in the assembly.) ATF can leak through the assembly pins mounted in the sensor. Remove the connection from the sensor located in the Transmission. Clean the connection and socket with CRC. Ware eye protection, getting the spray in your eyes is no good !
The second issue I have experienced is the speedometer reading to fast at a preset engine speed / Tachometer. Hear can become an issue.
The third item that can cause the problem is noise generated in the voltage regulator diodes due to heat.
Good luck and keep us in the loop.
Rich.
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22 minutes ago, docj said:Greetings to a fellow owner of a 2000 PT. It's a small club!
Does your Silverleaf system still work? What does it say the voltage is while the engine is running.
What does your Silverleaf voltage read ,like doc asked?
A alternator output voltage of over 14.5 will create an error, what is the alternator voltage reading? I have had that issue when the alternator regulator diodes failed.
A high DC voltage reading while on Shore Power can be caused when the Charger / inverter setting is wrong.
Rob, Have you replaced the house and or Chassis batteries before this issue appeared?
A little more information from you would help. Who's charger inverter is installed in the coach? Is it OEM or has it been replaced or updated?
Rich.
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4 minutes ago, ttbikes said:Yes, it is the part that is leaking. They said it was at the top where it screwed in.
Just an update for you all. I found the part a Days Diesel in Red Oak Alabama. Freightliner had told me it was not a Freightliner part but it was. Turns out it was part of a kit so I guess that is why it did not have a part number. Also, comes with a new height valve. The guy at Days Diesel did not think it would need a complete height valve so I just bought the kit. When it arrives and is installed I will let you know how it turns out.
Thanks for the up date and the detective work!
Rich.
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urbanhermit,
Kind of sounds like the PVC check valve is sticking open. Might check it out and the big vacuum line connected to it for age brake down issues..
Rich.
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Reading some of the threads that have been inactive for weeks. Members might not realize it is up and running!!
After trying a few times, I used my old password instead of starting a new account.
Rich.
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Maybe a PM to the Original poster, The forum has been off line for an extended time.
Rich.
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On 10/22/2020 at 10:09 AM, ttbikes said:So I think I have got to the bottom of my problem. I took it to Freightliner and they found a leak in air line fitting of the air ride system at the driver side rear. Now I have the problem of finding the part. It is not a Freightliner part. It is not listed in the Airstream parts book. I contracted Colaw Salvage and they don't have the part. I have included a picture. Any ideas where I can find this part?
ttbikes, Are the any numbers stamped into the fitting? What does the left side in the picture connect to if anything? or could it be a pressure adjusting point?
I took it to Freightliner and they found a leak in air line fitting of the air ride system at the driver side rear.(is this a picture of the part that is leaking?)
Where is the leak in relation to the part pictured? As a note to the issue, most air ride systems have or use Preset pressure valves in the ride height air supply. The common preset pressure is 65 Lbs.
Good information may require more information on the Air pressure level at the supply point of the part pictured.
Rich.
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On 9/20/2020 at 8:30 AM, smoltzie said:Searching for location of tranny shift fuse. Have 2004 Damon ultra sport. Called freightliner and they say by or near starting/house batteries but not there. Lights out on shift panel, still reading in gear so RV won’t start. Help!!
After reading your post. The transmission needs to be in neutral to enable the neutral safety switch.
You might read through this link SAME problem and the fix.
Good luck Rich.
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Joe, It is a new one to me also. If he has a heat issue with the Allison, wondering if it has something to do with the crossover pipe or hoses. The cooling system splits in the area.
Think you have the info I sent you a while back . Aftermarket is kind of in you back yard, if it turns out to be NLA. That part of the system is 15 years old.
Rich.
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On 8/30/2020 at 12:09 PM, F439789 said:headlights, tail lights and running lights won't work, turn signals, flashers and brake lights are ok. have checked all fuses that i can find, they are good. 08 phaeton 36 ft qsh on spartan chassis,
Does you coach have a ICC switch ? Not all work the same way, but it is worth checking out. Look at this link.
Did it drink some coffee or tea by chance?
Rich.
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12 minutes ago, Marvin D. Leigh said:Thanks guys, but I mean drivers training school for my wife. Sorry to lead you in the wrong direction. She wants to learn the real ins and outs of driving an RV.
This link might help, but a number of them have been canceled because of Covid-19
https://www.rvingwomen.org/page/driving_school
Rich.
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2 hours ago, Marvin D. Leigh said:Where is the closest training school from me. OKC. ??
Marvin, Have you Googled RV Technician School locations? There are a number of possible options including home study.
Rich.
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4 hours ago, Schultzes said:Thank you for the responses.
The MH is a 1999 Damon Ultrasport.
We tested the wire holding the switch and no readings on the meter, tested it to ground and nothing. Started the generator locally and tested the wire for voltage, nothing. Turned off the generator and attempted to ground it and start remote also.
Got into the dash and had a look at the remote switch and do not see any wires free, also took a look at where that harness attaches to another outside the generator controller and did not see anything apparent. I'll be doing some more poking around to verify the contacts are good at the switch and then the harness.
Not sure that the wire I am seeing hang free goes to remote starting or to another component within the generator side of the unit.
Look at the post with the Manual link !
Think the wire you found goes to the circuit pictured on the last page . The wire looks like it might be a faded yellow wire, related to the remote starting switch. wire number 3 in the drawing.
Rich.
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Carl, with today's 3D printing capabilities, one can make a number of items. If you or someone you know in into Auto Cad software or a related field.
Rich.
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19 hours ago, johntelling said:We have a G.E. Profile Spacemaker in our 2005 Excursion. I works great, but the door pops open when we are travelling. I have secured it with a bungee, but am looking for a slightly more elegant fix. Has anyone had that same issue? How did you fix it? Thank!
The latch mounting loosened up on our's. I was able to repair it and some of the plastic catches at the same time. Not a simple repair and not all latch systems work the same way.
50 plus years in the electronics, design, repair and production helps.
Rich.
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4 hours ago, markletheridge said:So I am ready to do the CAC and radiator cleaning. I got the Simple Green Extreme. Does anyone have recommendations on mixing ratios for this? Bottle for general engine cleaning says 1 to 3 gallons of water. That seems a bit high.
saw another post somewhere of 1/13.
Ross's information is a good base line mix, but it can be stronger. Kind of depends on how dirty the CAC and radiator are.
One does need to use water generously when flushing the system. Water pressure at 175 lbs should clear all the dirt and grease from the spaces in the fins.
Then repeat the job each year to keep the system in top operating condition.
Rich.
The attached picture is of a unit that is way to dirty and often beyond repair.
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I have to go along with Joe,
Steering gear, Ball joint(s) or drag link. Would take the coach to a medium duty truck shop. This would cause an X access wobble The shocks tend to correct the Y access motion.
Rich.
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10 hours ago, a1kaching said:Google Chevrolet C-10 aftermarket tail lights. Some one should still supply them.
Rich.
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15 hours ago, markletheridge said:Thanks too all so far. Rich, do you have access through the closet area or just the hole under the bed area?
Got lucky, The engine is directly under the bed in our case. Things depend on where they placed the large ward room or bath in some cases.
Rich.
As a side note! I get to the inside surface of the CAC from under the Coach. Using a small pilot drill, placed a pilot hole in the lower right-hand corner of the fan shroud( That is the passenger side) - then used a hole 3/4 in. hole saw(to drill a hole on the curved corner of the shroud) to allow me to use a engine cleaning wand to spray the aluminium friendly Simple Green at 80 to 100 psi in the hardest corner to clean and carefully wiggled into the engine compartment. Working not to damage a number of hoses, wires ,AC compressor lines, and chassis air lines. to wash the fan and the remaining CAC area available because of the fan blade pitch / angle.
This was done with the coach aired up, park break on and engine off. A wet dirty job and safety googles required.
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8 hours ago, markletheridge said:I have a 2008 Fleetwood Discovery, Freightliner Chasis, 350 hp Cummins. I had overheating issues on my last trip, primarily on grade. Temperature increased when turbo kicked in hard. If I kept the turbo pressure below 20 psi temp was OK but that is hard on a grade.
I read a number of posts about cleaning the charge air cooler and the radiator from the inside using Extreme Simple Green and normal water pressure. I go offroad a lot so there is a good chance of a buildup.
I accessed the engine from under the bed but can't get close to the radiator area easily. Is there possibly additional access through the rear closet? I did find a screw like in the other opening under the bed. Or am I just going to need to be a worm and crawl over the motor to it?
Any insight would be helpful.
The key is to clean them every year. How long has it been sense the last cleaning job?
Is your coach setup with the rear discharge system? Should that be the case and you drive off road as mentioned. The best way to clean things would be to have it steam cleaned. Then do the yearly Extreme Simple Green cleaning and through in the steam cleaning every other year.
You might try to minimize the heat by dropping down a gear or to to increase the RPMs and lower the turbo boost.
Cleaning the CAC and Radiator can require flexibility and a small waist.
Rich.
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1 hour ago, msgtnobody said:I noticed this plastic block under slide after I opened it. It seems to mount at bottom entrance where slide room enters rv. The bottom edge of slide has a slanted edge also. The block glides the slide over the edge of opening. Im going to try to reinstall it where it came off.
The plastic block is mounted to allow the slide to easily move up and over the coach floor. With it not in place the possibility of damaging the slide hardware that moves the slide, with it missing the slide might not close; causing other issues.
Can you tell how it was fastened in place?
Rich.
04 Bounder chassis battery power
in Electrical
Posted · Edited by dickandlois · Report reply
04, Check the fuses in the BCC and connections. There should be a information sheet for the BCC in your coach paper work.
The step power is supplied from the chassis batteries. There is a magnetic switch/relay activated by the small magnet located on the screen door. 2 circuits control the step power. One is the switch mentioned, the second source is from the ignition switch circuit, so the steps retract when the engine is started.
Third, there is a fuse and step circuit in the main chassis fuse panel under the dash panel.
Note ! all the circuits mentioned are powered from circuits supplied by the chassis builder, they are often referred to as ACC circuits. Powered from the chassis start /run batteries.
Note 2 Chassis battery on a 2004 Fleetwood Bounder, workhorse engine, was disconnected from inside RV when I put it in storage. When I last checked, I couldn't get the steps to open. I made sure step switch was on but the light on the switch was not on. There is a main fuse located at or near the chassis battery's that, but because the engine starts this main fuse should be GOOD.
Rich.