Yak61

Jim, Check out RoadMaster, I have a dual receiver I use on our class C. The 4 inch drop the tow bar connects to and we use a bike rack in the top side which is a 2" rise. Our tow bar then has about 2" of slope down to our Miata, which we have no problem with. RoadMaster also makes a 6" and 8" drop receiver. Be cautious of going to low as we have had our 4" drop hit pavement exiting a sloped gas station driveway before. I have some pictures, if I can find them I will send them to you. Mike

Where should the power for the steps come from? They would open when the switch for my house battery disconnect was either on or off, and would close whenever the ignition was on and the door closed. After a recent dealer visit trying to find a source for something draining the chassis battery while in storage (short term 2-3 weeks) the dealer said the Propane detector is draining the battery and the step was connected to the wrong source? Always worked before. They said the step should run off the house? If the step is in, and house Bat off you have to climb in the coach to reach the switch for the house battery. and the steps are not retracting when ignition is on. Let me know any ones thoughts House or Chassis? or New Dealership?? It is still at the dealership, I told them I did not think that was correct. 2005 Fleetwood Jamboree Ford F450 Thanks Mike

Desertdeals I do not think anything is reversed. All house systems are working without the chassis. Found the solenoid, with the chassis battery disconnected I started the chassis using the aux switch and house battery. Then after turning the engine off, hecked the disconnected cables at the chassis battery and they showed 12 volts from the house battery. After a few minutes the solenoid must have opened, no voltage at the chassis cables. Do you think there should or could be a delay in the solenoid opening the circuit? I would think it would be only momentary while the aux switch is depressed. Not sure if this is all related but when I reconnected chassis battey and started engine. Checked voltage 14+ volts on the chassis side of the solenoid but not on the house side. So it does not seam to be charging the house battery while the engine is running. Would make me think the solenoid is malfunctioning? and could be the cause of the chassis battery being drained. Does any of this sound logical, I am just not very familiar with solenoids and relays. Mike

I think this on the close to the problem I am having. I have a 2005 Fleetwood Jamboree "C" Ford F450. The last two months when I took the MH out of storage to exercise it, the chassis battery was completely dead (2 year old battery). 1st month removed battery to charge and noticed dash lights where on, and the engine would start without chassis battery? Today held the aux start switch and was able to start chassis off house batteries. After an exercise drive, checked voltage and both batteries where the same 12.7 volts. Disconnected chassis battery and chassis starts without holding aux switch or chassis battery? I would think the house batteries would be isolated from the chassis until the aux start switch is depressed. Am I looking for a switch, solenoid/relay problem? and could a bad switch solenoid drain the battery? Any suggestions would be helpful. Mike

Pete, Just sent you a copy of an email that might be helpful. Mike

Tried the 1157 LED it has 12 LEDs. It reduced the amps but was definitely not as bright, I think because all of the leds do not face the lens. No problem with the fuse blowing. Then figured out they are Bargman lights. Purchased two LED conversion lens that have 16 leds built in about $40 each. Look as bright as the 1157 and Bargman said they reduce the amps to about 30% of the 1157. No fuse problems after leaving brake lights on for over 2o minutes. Picture shows the LEDs on top and 1157 in center light. May replace the other two lights later. Thanks for the replies and suggestions. Mike

Herman, There are two lamps on each side of the coach for a total of 4 + the two in the car. Wouldn't a 15 amp possibly overload the wire? Yes the fuse is hot after it blows.

I am flat towing with a Fleetwood Class C on a Ford 450 chassis. I keep blowing 10 amp stop light fuses when the stop lights are on for more than short uses. Looked for a short since the fuse is overheating and concluded there are dual stop lights on the coach and the two bulbs on the toad. All are 1157 bulbs. when I researched the bulbs are drawing 2.1 amps ea on the bright side x 6 = 12.6 amps. When I remove one bulb in the car, things are fine insert the 6th bulb and it blows. Any suggestions? are there lower amp 1157's or leds available or other devices to limit the amps drawn? Mike

Thanks for all the information. I should be able to get it from here. Mike

7 way on the MH to a 6 way on the car. Mike

It is a Brake Buddy. I have installed a separate cigarette lighter plug in the toad. I open the back of the plug on the MH and Herman you are correct they just have the lights, Brown, Yellow and Green and Black on the 7:30 prong (I assume ground) but there is one red 6" wire on the 4:30 prong. On "Roadmaster's web site they show the 4:30 location for brakes ( I believe for a brake control rather than constant 12v power) I think the power should go to the center pin or the 1:30 prong for auxiliary power. Any thoughts? Mike http://www.roadmaste.../85-4041-01.pdf

I have a 2005 Fleetwood Jamboree on the Ford chassis. I am trying to obtain power from the MH 7 way plug for a supplemental brake. The lights work, but I have no power to the two prongs that I thought should supply 12v power at the plug. Are these circuits normally left disconnected? Any idea where the connection point would be? Mike