wolfe10
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Posts posted by wolfe10
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Actually, even if you had an ALL WHELL DRIVE motorhome, you would not want to expose it to the salt they put on the roads in winter unless it was an emergency.
Weather conditions along with state DOT websites should keep you safe and corrosion free!
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NO, changing where a particular battery is located in a battery bank will not cause your issue.
Now, if they are not hooked up properly electrically, sure that would cause problems. But two (pairs of 6 VDC batteries wired in series) with each pair wired in parallel is very common and easy to verify.
And any time a competent tech checking an electrical issue starts a sentence with "I THINK"..................... Sorry, you are only interested in FACTS. If wet cell batteries, spend less than $10 and get a battery hydrometer. Fully charge them and check SG. VERY easy and you will have the FACTS.
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Each state along your route has a DOT (Department of Transportation) site that gives up to the minute road conditions.
You need to check with them before deciding on a shorter/more scenic VS southerly/warmer route.
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Dee,
What time of year are you traveling?
For example, right now part of that route is snow packed/icy.
And, what are you driving?
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And, certainly a LOT easier to get rust-free used wheels if you are traveling south away from the rust belt.
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Interesting!
So a "low coolant" warning is displayed as a "!" above the "low DEF" label?
SO, is that the display for all warnings and the LOW DEF is just one of the monitored functions and perhaps a better label than "low DEF" could be used.
Does the display give any information other than "!"?
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Yes, we have mentioned a number of possible causes for brakes pads sticking/not retracting.
BUT (yes, large BUT) only a complete brake inspection can identify the root cause.
At this point, we don't know if these are fixed or sliding calipers, phenoilic pistons or metal pistons, age of brake fluid, etc.
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Fixed caliper disk brakes (pistons on both sides of caliper) or sliding caliper (pistons on only one side of caliper)?
Causes of brakes sticking are very much dependent on their design.
Also, check if these are Bosch calipers. And if so do they have phenolic pistons which were known to seize in their bore?
And, please verify that it is AIR over hydraulic, not HYDRAULIC over hydraulic.
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Drum or disk?
Air or hydraulic?
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Be sure your troubleshooting includes checking the 120 VAC fuse on the PC board.
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Yup, bypassing the safety device should only be done after confirming that you don't have a failed cooling unit. Running it with a failed cooling unit is a great way to burn down your RV and ONLY IF YOU ARE WILLING TO RISK A FIRE.
Yellow powder indicated a failed cooling unit.
The odor of ammonia indicates a failed cooling unit.
Even if you bypass the safety device and have a failed cooling unit, there will be no cooling, just excessive temperatures in the boiler.
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Initial reports are that the new 2020 Ford gas chassis with the 7.3 V8 had some significant suspension enhancements.
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South Rim only and only after looking at the weather forecast. If forecast good, ABSOLUTELY.
If not, hang tight at lower elevations.
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alcampers55,
Welcome to the FMCA Forum.
Please tell us what you are driving.
How long is the grade? Running start or from dead start?
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What RV do you have??
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Most RV's have a check valve so hot water can not "back up" into the cold system. Yours may be bad.
Not familiar with the device,-- I would contact them to troubleshoot it.
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2 minutes ago, FIVE said:Ours too, unless in the summer and everything is very dusty.
But, have been there for July 4th. The fire works out over the Mississippi River are worth the heat, humidity etc.
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Yes, no "here is how they are all wired".
Some refrigerator outlets are wired for both sockets to be shore power/generator only.
Some are wired for both sockets to be inverter OR shore power/generator (either ATS internal to inverter or on high end models, a second ATS)
Some are wired with ONE plug shore power/generator AND THE OTHER inverter OR shore power/generator.
Easy to check by plugging in any 120 VAC appliance to each socket behind the refrigerator with shore power and generator OFF.
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sgtpappy1,
Welcome to the FMCA Forum.
Look where the shore power comes into the coach. It will either go to an ATS OR, there will be a pigtail that would allow you to manually plug generator cord into it on its way to the main 120 VAC breaker box.
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19 minutes ago, kaypsmith said:Reading higher than normal voltages is nearly always an indication that there is an improperly tightened ground/neutral before the first high voltage reading in an AC circuit.
Agreed, if on 50 amp shore power (two hots) as the neutral serves as the "reference" for voltage.
On generator, really depends on the generator. Many are 120, not 240 VAC (one hot instead of two). In this case more likely to be the voltage regulator.
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120 is perfect. 122 is just fine! 120 +/- 10% is acceptable limit, so under 108 or over 132 is NOT acceptable. The closer to 120 VAC the better.
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Yes, you need to verify if this is really a bad voltage issue or perhaps bad voltmeter issue!
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140 is DANGEROUSLY high. Limits are 120 +/- 10%. So anything over 132 VAC is unacceptable!
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23 minutes ago, sgtjoe said:Is it possible when he was setting the battery type for charging that he set it to the wrong type of battery. Would this cause the Inverter to not be able to send power to the plug?
In a word, NO. That only affects the charging aspect of the inverter/charger, not inverter function.
Have you reset the two ON INVERTER breakers?
Do any of the circuits that previously worked on the inverter work properly?
Wife driving
in General Discussion
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EXCELLENT advice. It is more about confidence than skill set.