wolfe10
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Posts posted by wolfe10
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Carl,
I can't find any reference that Newell is built on the Roadmaster chassis???
Looks more like the custom built chassis Foretravel did (also designed and built in house) until recently.
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3 minutes ago, sgtjoe said:I appreciate all the responses but here is another question. If my previous 458 Freedom msw 2000 supplied power to the fridge plug why isn't my new 458 Freedom msw 2000 sending power to the same plug????????????
Indeed, if wired the same on no breaker tripped, it SHOULD.
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21 minutes ago, Erniee said:Brenda and I finally have a month off and are going to riverview campground in Vidallia, La
One of our favorites.
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BUT, first verify that 103 is the accurate reading, not one from a meter not designed to correctly reflect MSW voltage.
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Do an internet search for: voltmeter for reading MSW
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Actually, a more complex question than one would imagine.
If this is a MSW (Modified Sine Wave) inverter, a standard voltmeter will not read voltage accurately.
Yes, if PSW (Pure Sine Wave) it should read very close to 120VAC.
Please let us know what inverter you have-- MSW or PSW.
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At least on the Sheppard M100 steering box there is no external adjustment for play.
This company does a booming business blueprinting them which does remove play: https://redheadsteeringgears.com/
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As Herman said we need to know what chassis you have. And, what year model?
From front leaf springs, I am ASSUMING a Ford F53 chassis.
Has front end CASTER been set to high side of spec?
And, is tire pressure based on actual weights? or?
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Ya, I viewed that one. Just wonder if the gaskets around the door still sealed properly after raising them by that amount.
If the "dollar bill' test was successful, EXCELLENT!
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Just do an internet search for: "repair of Norcold 1200LRIM door"
You will find a number of home remedies.
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Before considering the 255/70R22.5 you will need to verify that your wheels have enough minimum dual spacing in the rear (11.6" vs 10.3") and that the wider tire will not interfere with body or suspension components on sharp turns in the front.
Assume you have the Ford F53 chassis (don't know which GVWR chassis).
You might ask if any others with that chassis if any have "upsized".
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The only "high" water line I can think of is the one going to the top/back of the refrigerator.
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Ideal is to do "all wheel position weighing, then use heavier wheel position on each axle to determine the minimum PSI for all tires on that axle.
Second best is to weigh the axles (most trucks stops), but that ASSUMES perfect left/right weight distribution-- not likely in a motorhome. So you would have to add more of a "fudge factor" to account for this.
Third best is to go with the weights shown on your GVWR plaque, but that ASSUMES that you are not well under or over loaded compared with those ratings.
Wish there were a simple answer, but as you can see from the Michelin site, the correct PSI may be 75 or 120-- too much difference to just guess.
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Yup, not reasonable to expect a dealer to know the correct PSI for your tires. How is he to know the actual weight-- whether you full time and have a rock collection or only lightly load for an occasional weekend trip. They SHOULD err on the side of too much PSI-- that gives a rough ride, but will do less damage to the tire than being under-inflated.
It is an owner's job to take it from there.
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Boy, life is good when "getting ready for happy hour" can be the focal point for the afternoon.
I need to get done with my chores so I can prepare to get ready myself!
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lazylizard2,
Welcome to the FMCA Forum.
With your actual axle weights, go to this Michelin website: https://www.michelinrvtires.com/reference-materials/load-and-inflation-tables/#/
If you do not yet have actual weights, look on your GVWR plaque to see weights with each axle loaded to GAWR, and use that to go to the chart.
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6 minutes ago, RayIN said:Go back and re-read BandM's initial statement. I read it to say, " Current MICHELIN is no longer available", how do you intrepret his statement?
Personally, I do not know if that means the same SERIES tire he has or the size.
That IS a common Michelin size.
Were it me, my first call would be to Michelin Corp. not a dealer or dealer sales person who may just know what he has or can get his hands on in a day or two.
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8 minutes ago, elkhartjim said:I'm just south of Cuba on the Silversea ship Silver Shadow and its a hot 82° F.
My brother is just north of you. Yesterday he and his wife just crossed from Miami to Bimini in the sailboat.
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32 minutes ago, richard5933 said:Adjusting steering stops on my coach is done in the hydraulic system, not by physically moving the stop. Adjusted properly, there is 3/8" clearance between the steering components and the stop. The steering is 45 years old and I just don't see the wisdom of messing with it and possibly opening a Pandora's box when a simple solution is at hand.
Yes, if a Sheppard M100 steering box (and perhaps others) changing cut angles is a matter of turning a small exterior screw a few degrees.
BTW, I use a 1/4" chunk of metal to set clearance between mechanical stop and steering sector max angle.
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14 minutes ago, WILDEBILL308 said:If I only had 1/2 inch of clearance I would be shaving off some of the mounting plates or adjusting the steering stops.
Bill
Yes, those are other options.
I know I have done complete mechanical inspections on a couple of Foretravels who have gone from 275/80R22.5 to 295/75R22.5 and had to both cut a little off the air bag mounting plate (no big deal) AND slightly adjust the cut angle to keep from having the tire contact the drag link-- easy 2 minute adjustment with the Sheppard M100 steering box.
Again, no big deal but needs to be done.
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To some degree depends on the engine/fuel injection system.
Contact your engine manufacturer with your engine serial number and discuss it with them.
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Air Brake System Pre-trip Check
1. Be on reasonably level ground. Block wheels so the coach can not move even with the parking brake off.2. Start engine and run until full air pressure is reached. Listen for the dryer to purge (about 120 PSI).
3. Shut off the engine.
4. Release the parking brake by pushing in the yellow button (make sure you don't roll, and do NOT apply the brake pedal).
5. After the initial pressure drop, the system should not loose more than 2 PSI per minute.
6. Apply the brake pedal firmly (still with the parking brake OFF).
7. After the initial pressure drop, the system should not loose any more than 3 PSI per minute.
8. With the engine off, ignition on and parking brake off, rapidly pump the brake pedal to bleed down the air supply. During this stage you should watch for the warning light and buzzer at about 60 PSI and then the yellow button (parking brake) should pop out at about 30 PSI.
9. Restart the engine and build up air pressure again. While building up pressure, check how long it takes for pressure to go from 85 to 100 PSI at “cruising RPM”. It should be less than 45 seconds. -
sunlover19,
No reflection on you personally at all. We have no idea if you are brand new to diesel pushers or an old hand with a quarter million miles.
As with most threads, there will be people reading this in the future who span the whole range of experiences-- and posts are directed to that same wide range.
BTW, Dianne and I have about 25,000 sailboat miles-- mostly between Galveston Bay and the Bahamas. Indeed a different and more complex set of "how too's".
End Caps attaching to frame
in Type A motorhomes
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Without a lot of pictures, very difficult for us to do an "arm chair" estimate.
Clearly, rotted wood will have to be replaced (and hopefully encapsulated to protect it in the future).
Any metal components that have sagged, welds broken, etc will have to be reworked.
On a 14 year old coach this could range from a large do it yourself project to totaling the coach.