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wolfe10

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Posts posted by wolfe10

  1. Posted · Report reply

    There are several materials that are all referred to as "rubber roofs": EDPM, TPO and Brite-tex are three common ones.

    Your safest bet is to determine what material you have and call its manufacturer for their current recommendation.

    Most recommend a non-petroleum-based soap such as Murphy's Oil Soap.

    Brett Wolfe

  4. Posted · Report reply

    The first thing I would do is to check your home state (California in your case) and determine what the penalty is for being a legal resident of that state and registering a vehicle in another state to avoid taxes.

    Issues like whether you store and use it in California would likely be important.

    Completely different if you are full-timing and use Montana as your home state (mailing address, driver' license, etc).

    Brett Wolfe

  6. Posted · Report reply

    The problem could be with the engine or in the wiring to it.

    Do you have a wiring diagram of that part of the coach wiring, and does it test out? You know at least part of it does, as the switch does communicate with the Allison ECU and sounds like it activates at least some of the cylinders when engaged.

    Here is the number for the Cummins RV Hotline: 800 343-7357, 5

    And on HIGH, it should be using all six cylinders (opening the exhaust valves on all six cylinders as the piston approaches TDC on the compression stroke).

    On LOW, it should be using three cylinders.

    Brett Wolfe

  7. Posted · Report reply

    Servicing RV Roof Air Conditioners

    Air return filter(s) need to be cleaned/replaced frequently. Shine a flashlight up into the air return to determine if you have accumulated dirt on the filter(s). The filter area is small, so it is not unusual to need this serviced weekly with heavy use.

    If a ducted system, check for air tight connection to duct(s).

    Just snug the 4 bolts holding the roof-top unit to the inside unit. They are accessible by removing the inside cover. You want to minimally compress the foam roof gasket. Do NOT over-tighten. If water leaks in from the roof, try tightening a little��"if it still leaks, replace the roof to A/C gasket (available at any RV store).

    Other service items such as condenser, evaporator, fan motor and capacitors are serviced from the roof. To service these, turn A/C 120 VAC power OFF at 120 VAC breaker box or just unplug coach from shore power. Obviously determine that you can safely climb on the roof. Remove the A/C shroud to service these items.

    There are TWO sets of coils on the roof. The one you see is the CONDENSER and can be easily cleaned with water or compressed air. Do not get water into the electrical area.

    The other coil, the EVAPORATOR, is inside the evaporator housing. Particularly if you get that moldy, cave-like smell when first starting the A/C you need to clean it. This is likely a once a year issue in humid climates where the evaporator stays wet much of the time. Use a professional evaporator cleaner available at any HVAC store and a tooth brush (NEVER your own).

    And while you are on the roof (WITH POWER OFF), check all electrical connections and also that the electrical capacitors are not deformed or leaking. Do not touch the terminals on the capacitors, as they do retain a charge even with power off.

    Some fan motors have oil ports on each end of the fan motor, some have sealed bearings. If oil ports, add 3 (not more) drops of light machine oil/sewing machine oil to each port. Also, insure that the fan motor is tight on its mounts. Lastly, check and remove mud dabber nests that can throw fans off balance or short out electrical connections.

    Brett Wolfe

  9. Posted · Report reply

    Roger,

    We have a "Resident Expert" on the P30 AutoPark.

    His name is Roger Haag and over the years he has tirelessly helped dozens troubleshoot and fix this system.

    You might shoot him an e-mail with your year model, GVWR and symptoms: oldusedbear@oemys-performance.com

    Brett Wolfe

  10. Posted · Report reply

    Yes, a magnetic compass must be "swung" to insure any accuracy at all when installed in a metal or metal frame vehicle.

    BUT, once swung, it should remain accurate as long as it is in that location and no heavy ferrous metal or magnet is placed near it. I just did this in our motorhome after re-covering the dash which required that I remove the compass.

    Find a parking lot big enough and flat enough that you can easily drive in a circle.

    Park facing due north. Put objects (I just use my leveling boards) next to driver's side front and rear tires to serve as markers. Drive around so that you face south/roughly south using the locator objects as a guide. If the compass is perfectly adjusted, it will now show you headed at 180 degrees. If it is not, use the N-S compensating screw to TAKE AWAY 1/2 OF THE ERROR. So, if, instead of showing 180 degrees, it shows 170 degrees, adjust to 175 degrees. Move coach and locator objects a little to bring compass to 180 degrees. Drive around using the locator objects and insure you are headed at 0 degrees. If not, again take away 1/2 the error.

    Repeat with E-W headings.

    This will not get you close enough for ocean navigation, but will work fine for how we use a compass.

    Brett Wolfe

  11. Posted · Report reply

    There are three different "auxiliary" braking systems used on different diesel engines.: Exhaust Brakes, Engine Compression Brakes and Variable Geometry Turbo Brakes.

    Exhaust brake: literally a "flap" which closes off exhaust flow just downstream of the turbo in the exhaust system. This causes back pressure (55 PSI on ours) which generates braking power. With the Allison transmission, the exhaust brake is usually tied with downshifting of the transmission to the "pre-selected" gear (usually 2nd or 4th). Think of it as a potato stuffed in the tailpipe.

    Engine Compression Brake (aka Jake brake): The exhaust valves are opened as the pistons reach TDC (Top Dead Center) on the compression stroke after the engine has done the "work" of compressing about 18 volumes of intake air to 1 volume. If the exhaust were not let to escape by the compression brake's opening, the exhaust valves (i.e. coasting with brake off), the "compressed air" would mostly be returned as power to the engine, forcing the piston back down.

    With the Jake brake on, the engine works to compress air in the cylinder, and then the air is let out. This generates quite a lot more braking force than an exhaust brake. The smallest engines to offer an engine compression brake are the Caterpillar C9 and Cummins ISL.

    Variable Geometry Turbo: The vanes reverse or aperture closes (depends on engine manufacturer) to create back pressure with much the same effect as an exhaust brake.

    Brett Wolfe

  12. Posted · Report reply

    Calibrating the engine oil dipstick

    We continue to see concerns about oil "consumption" and oil on radiators and toads on many RV Web sites. It seems to be universal across all brands of diesel engines.

    THE NUMBER ONE CAUSE IS AN OVERFILLED CRANKCASE. CALIBRATING THE ENGINE OIL DIPSTICK TO ACHIEVE THE CORRECT OIL LEVEL IN THE PAN "FIXES" OVER 90% OF THESE PROBLEMS.

    Step one if you "think" your DP has an oil consumption problem or you are seeing oil mist on your toad (or you just want to verify that yours is correct): CALIBRATE THE DIPSTICK. Since the same engines/dip sticks are used in many different applications with different angles of installation, do not ASSUME that the dip stick is correctly marked. This applies to all age (including brand new) motorhomes and boats with every brand of engine.

    Calibration costs $0.

    At the next oil change, drain oil, remove old filter (as usual). Then install the drain plug and new oil filter and add the engine's correct oil capacity LESS THE NUMBER OF QUARTS you want between the "add" and "full" marks (let's say 2 quarts). So, for example, for a Caterpillar C7 with 19 quart capacity you would add 17 quarts. Run the engine a few minutes, shut off and wait until oil has descended into the pan (at least 30 minutes and an hour is safer). Pull the dip stick and use a file or dremel tool to mark the oil level "add." Add the remaining two quarts, let the oil settle in the pan, pull the dipstick and mark this the "full" mark.

    In many/most cases, you will find that your engine "throws out" the access oil and then "consumption" settles down to next to nothing. Put in the correct amount and your "consumption" issues may go away.

    Also, when checking the oil level with the dipstick it is safest to do it in the morning after the oil has had all night to flow back to the pan.

    Brett Wolfe

  13. Posted · Report reply

    Coach Ride Height

    Safety Caution: Never go under a coach without adequate safety stands.

    Importance of correct ride height: If ride height is too low, the suspension can bottom out on bumps, giving a harsh ride and shocks can be crushed on compression. If ride height is set too high shocks can pull apart on extension and the center of mass is raised. And either too high or too low can destroy the U joints and drive shaft, particularly on a Diesel Pusher. Even 1 inch out of spec on a DP driveshaft significantly alters driveline angles. It will also transfer a huge amount of weight from side to side. How many of your really strong friends would it take to lift the left rear corner of your coach!

    Ride height is critical to ride, handling and to component longevity. All chassis makers have specifications for the correct ride height, leaf spring, Torsilastic and air suspensions. A proper wheel alignment can not be done before correcting ride height. Ride height specs are generally from a given point on the axle to a given point on the chassis rail.

    Leaf Spring Suspension: Out-of-spec ride height on a leaf spring suspension can be caused by worn springs, shackles or out of spec weight on a corner. It can be corrected by replacing the springs, adding a spacer shim, adding a leaf or moving weight. Truck suspension shops make these repairs routinely.

    Torsilastic Suspension: On Torsilastic suspensions found on some Foretravel and some Safari products, ride height is raised by removing spacer shims. Each shim is ¼†thick and removing one from in front of and behind a wheel position raises that wheel position ¼â€. Loosen, but do NOT remove the long bolts securing the shims. The shims are slotted and are easily removed. Torque nuts on the long thru-shim bolts to 115 ft-lbs.

    Air suspension: Most coaches with air suspensions use 3 ride height valves: two on one axle and one on the other. These valves can leak and/or the light-duty rods used to attach them to the axle can be easily bent by road debris. Check and adjust ride height at least twice a year or anytime you run over road debris, notice a change in ride height, a change in ride quality, the coach is too low for the jacks to deploy properly, steps are closer to the ground, etc.

    According to Walter Cannon of RVSEF (Recreation Vehicle Safety Education Foundation) (http://www.rvsafety.org/), who performs all wheel position RV weighings around the country, incorrect ride height has led to some of the most severe wheel position overloading they have recorded. For the schedule and location of coach weighings in your area, go to RVSEF Schedule.

    Brett Wolfe

  14. Posted · Report reply

    When an RV (absorption-type) refrigerator will not function on propane:

    1. Verify that you do have 12+ VDC to the back of the refrigerator-- the PC board requires 12 VDC to operate on propane as well as on 120 VAC.

    2. Turn on propane stove and verify normal, steady flame.

    3. Do annual burner-area tune-up as described in your refrigerator's owners manual. It takes no parts and no special tools. Issues addressed are: cleaning propane jet, cleaning burner tube, cleaning and setting igniter gap, etc.

    4. If still does not work, remove, clean (preferably with DeOxit--DeOxit) all electrical connections on the PC board and ground lug.

    Only after doing this should you suspect expensive parts such as PC board, gas valve, igniter, cooling unit, etc.

    Brett Wolfe

  16. Posted · Report reply

    Ron,

    You don't say what size batteries you have. If group 24 or 27 that is on the high side unless you are in really hot conditions. If 8D's or other larger batteries, you are in the "normal" range.

    But, do yourself and your batteries a big favor and VERIFY voltage. If you have a smart converter, smart charger or smart inverter/charger, do this at least 24 hours after plugging into shore power to insure that it has gone into FLOAT MODE. Use a digital voltmeter (available at Radio Shack, Sears, etc starting under $25). In the summer, 13.0-13.2 VDC is ideal with 13.5 VDC being at the high end of acceptable.

    If you have a smart inverter/charger, be sure it is properly programmed for high temperatures. The charger's owners manual will cover this.

    Brett Wolfe

  17. Posted · Report reply

    As Tom said, your solar panel output may not be enough to overcome "parasitic" loads.

    From your description, you are not storing the unit plugged into Shore power.

    Indeed, as kalynzoo said, once batteries are completely charged, have the batteries load tested-- if original they are likely at the end of their normal life. Batteries can NOT be tested until they are fully charged.

    If batteries test good, there are three options:

    1. Store plugged into shore power and let your converter or charger maintain the battery charge.

    2. Lessen the electrical draw by removing 12 VDC fuses from parasitic loads that you do not need.

    Brett Wolfe

  18. Posted · Report reply

    Proper battery charging is important to battery life irrespective of what type of battery you have (wet-cell, AGM, gel).

    Proper FLOAT VOLTAGE (voltage AFTER batteries fully charged-- like more than 24 hours after plugging in) should be 13.0-13.5 VDC. In the summer, 13.0-13.2 VDC is ideal.

    Higher voltage WILL overcharge batteries, cause them to use water, etc.

    As suggested, not all devices used to charge batteries are equal. There are basically two levels of "quality" of chargers:

    "Stupid" converters-- those that charge at the same voltage whether the batteries are fully discharged or fully charged.

    "Smart" converters, "Smart" chargers or "Smart" inverter/chargers. Substantially better because they charge discharged batteries at a higher voltage (BULK MODE), then taper off in ABSORPTION MODE and after fully charging, maintain the batteries in FLOAT MODE.

    Please pull out the owners manual for your converter, charger or inverter/charger. If a "Smart" one, read the section on programming it. Make sure it is set on SUMMER/high temperatures. Unless it has a temperature probe found on real high-end units, YOU have to tell the charger whether the batteries are at freezing or 100 degrees F. And if set for winter temperatures, it will be overcharging the batteries when it is hot outside.

    If you have a "Stupid" converter or after programming your "Smart" charger, use a digital voltmeter (available at Radio Shack, Sears, etc starting under $25) to check voltage at the battery at least 24 hours after plugging it in (to insure you are measuring FLOAT voltage). Again 13.0 to 13.2 VDC is ideal in hot weather.

    Brett Wolfe

  19. Posted · Report reply

    Still, if you're comfortable doing the work yourself, an extra set of belts in storage could save you from another emergency tow to a shop.

    Actually, carrying spare belts is a great idea whether you can replace them or not. You will find those who can replace them virtually anywhere you travel, BUT finding the right belt in the middle of nowhere is a different matter.

    And if the present belts are over 3 years old, replace them and save the OLD ONES as spares.

    That does two things:

    1. ABSOLUTELY assures you that you have the correct belt.

    2. Lessens the likelihood of a belt breaking.

    Brett Wolfe

  20. Posted · Report reply

    I am using one right now. It does work and keeps me from blowing breakers when both A/C units are on. Yes, the 30 and 20 amp circuits are on the same wire from the distribution panel, however the wire is large enough to carry 50 amps AND the distribution panel has a 50 amp breaker on the circuit. Also, the 20 amp breaker on my power pedestal is not a ground fault breaker. I made this so by replacing the 20 amp breaker myself. (I am a CG host and will be on the site for 4 months. I will reverse the change when I leave the park.) We still must be careful. This rig DOES NOT give you the 100 amps available on a true 50 amp circuit. No running both A/Cs, the washer and dryer, electric hot water and the microwave all at the same time.

    Frank has pointed out the basic flaw in this-- most CG 15/20 amp outlets are GFI protected (per current code). This device will NOT work with a GFI.

    And even if it is not GFI protected and the device works, remember, you are not getting the same amp service as 50 amp.

    With 50 amp, you have TWO 50 AMP HOTS= 100 amps available.

    With this device you have one 30 and one 15 or 20 amp hots= 45 to 50 amps available.

    Brett Wolfe

  21. Posted · Report reply

    I have always wondered about adequate electrical power. Couple years ago I added another land power cable somewhat smaller than the main cable and this I plug into the additional outlet or two that you find with your 35 or 50 amp outlet. This extra cable enters the dinette area of my motorhome and I use it to power the toaster or grill ect.

    My concern, is this really gaining anything,or am I just drinking from the same fountain with two straws???

    Whaddayathink?

    For CG boxes providing 50 amp service (perhaps along with 30 and 15/20 amp service), there are 4 wires from the CG main breaker box: 2 hots, a neutral and a ground.

    If you have 50 amp service to your coach, you are gaining nothing by taking part of the load on a separate 15/20 amp circuit. The 50 amp service provides 50 amps on EACH of the two hot legs. So you can use up to a total of 100 amps. It is very doubtful that you will use anywhere near 50 amps PER hot leg.

    If you have 30 amp service to your coach, you are limited to 30 amps ( a LOT less than 100 supplied with 50 amp RV service). So here, your extra 15/20 cord will allow you to run more "stuff" from the 30.

    Brett Wolfe

  22. Posted · Report reply

    My street is the same, so I drive the right front wheel up onto the driveway until the coach is almost level (as level as any campground I've ever stayed in). This also makes it easier to pack the coach for a trip.

    Let me add to Jim's post.

    If you do park with three wheel positions at about the same level and one wheel position 6" lower (your high-crowned street for instance with curb-side wheel up on the driveway) please use leveling boards under the low wheel position OR use your leveling jacks.

    You will put quite a bending torque on a chassis leaving it parked with three at one level and one at another.

    Brett Wolfe

  23. Posted · Report reply

    I will repeat one more time-- a 5000 pound hitch does not necessarily mean that your coach was designed to tow 5000 pounds.

    THE authority on towing capacity is your coach manufacturer. Towing capacity is determined by the LEAST strong component.

    Much better to confirm before you spend your money than to find out you are operating dangerously/illegally.

    Brett Wolfe

  24. Posted · Report reply

    There are several thing that you need to determine:

    Coach GCWR (Gross Combined Weight Rating)

    Towing capacity-- remember the LEAST strong element determines capacity, NOT hitch rating. It could be brakes, transmission, coach frame or indeed the hitch itself.

    Rear axle capacity-- the tongue weight will add well more than its actual weight to the rear axle because it is located so far behind the rear axle. Indeed, as Jim said, an equalizing hitch will help redistribute tongue weight.

    You need to weight your coach and verify that with the loaded coach, car and trailer you are considering that you will be under GCWR.

    And with a 33' gas chassis coach pulling a 24' trailer, handling WILL be affected.

    Brett Wolfe

  25. Posted · Report reply

    Your coach house AND chassis electrical systems are 12 VDC, not 6,24,48, etc-- same 99% of all coaches out there .

    You can achieve that 12 VDC by wiring any number of 12 VDC batteries in PARALLEL, or by wiring PAIRS of 6 VDC wired in SERIES in PARALLEL. To make it easier to visualize, consider a "pair of 6 VDC batteries wired in seires" to be a "12 VDC battery"-- that is what they are.

    Tom is correct, you want DEEP CYCLE batteries. There ARE 12 VDC deep cycle batteries, but they are rare compared with 6 VDC/golf cart batteries.

    Go to the battery manufacturer's website and CONFIRM that the 12 VDC batteries you got are indeed deep cycle and not starting or marine batteries.

    And you could have done a LOT of damage to your 12 VDC system running it on 24 volts, which is what you would have if the wires were attached on the 12 VDC batteries as they were on your old 6 VDC batteries-- light bulbs, PC boards in refrigerator, furnaces, water heater, etc.

    This is something that anyone working on batteries/RV's (including all RV owners) should KNOW.

    TURN EVERYTHING OFF/DISCONNECT THE BATTERIES/TURN OFF CHARGER IMMEDIATELY.

    After re-wiring to 12 VDC, have a qualified RV tech check out ALL 12 VDC items-- I mean ALL.

    Brett Wolfe

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