wolfe10
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Posts posted by wolfe10
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Having a second gasoline tank and plumbing gets into a whole other level of safety concerns.
Will it be stored in a vented compartment, secured, etc, etc.
If you are going to get into "re-engineering" I would consider a fuel-safe ball valve and after removing all loads from the generator, close the valve and let the carburetor be stored "dry". Yes, do this only when the generator will not be used for a month or more. And, best practices, open the valve once a month and run the generator under at least 50% load for45+ minutes.
Also, for older units, be sure to check the fuel lines for cracks that allow air into the lines. Ethanol laced fuel speeds up deterioration of the fuel lines.
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Solar and a good controller will directly charge the batteries-- it will not involve the inverter/charger.
And, you will need to verify that BOTH battery banks will be charged by whatever system you go with.
In the meantime, you will need to run the generator to power the inverter/charger to keep the batteries charged (at least the house bank-- you will need to verify that the inverter/charger also charges the chassis batteries).
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Could be a stuck or sunk float in the carb.
Pull all the spark plugs. Turn the engine over to get rid of the gas in the cylinders.
Once running, be sure to check the oil for gasoline dilution-- change oil if it smells like gasoline.
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Thread locked per OP's request.
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Sure (yes SURE) looks like CABIN FEVER has set in!
Please, back to Original Topic.
Thanks.
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LOTS of reasons:
Cracked fuel in= no fuel.
Ignition issue-- no spark= no go.
The GOOD news is that with a sound engine, there aren't that many things that would cause a "no run".
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Have you pulled a spark plug to see if it is flooded?
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1 minute ago, hermanmullins said:Could be the gas your are seeing is only from what is in the bowl? It may be showing up with the accelerator pump but not enough fuel to run. That could mean the fuel line is stopped up some where.
Herman
OR, a fuel line may be cracked and sucking in AIR.
Run a supply line from a gas can and see if it will run.
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When cranking, the ballast resistor is bypassed. The coil does get its power from/through the ballast resistor once the starter is not operating.
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Been a really long time since I worked on the Chrysler 440, but I recall a problem with faulty ?ballast resistor? for the ignition system. Recall it being mounted on the firewall in many applications.
Maybe that will spark (yes, pun) someone's memory.
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Have you checked for spark?
How old is the gas?
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Much, much more important than the maximum amp rating is whether the converter, smart charger or inverter/charger will follow the charge perimeters speced by your battery maker.
Call Battleborn and discuss what you have for charging AND what you should have/
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And, I doubt tax if going out of state.
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Call around to other HD truck service facilities and ask if there is anyone who does in-chassis boring/inserting.
I know that some dealerships DO know and use such services. I was at Mustang Caterpillar in Houston when an outside contractor came in and did that to a Caterpillar 3126.
As an alternate, find out the name of a/the company that makes the boring machine and ask them if there are any in your area.
This isn't (or at least should not be) rocket science.
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Check to see if there are those who can bore and insert a cylinder liner while still in the chassis. Part of this depends on overhead clearance, part on how deep to scoring is.
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How about if we are going to do a "hindsight review" we cover how they should have done it better= constructive suggestions.
Let's all keep in mind that this is a "first time ever for this kind of challenge"-- not just for FMCA, not just the venue (Tucson in the case of this spring's Convention), not just for the U.S., but for the world. There is no "play book" for this.
I would love to hear from anyone who even 6 months ago says they have a plan in place to address this kind of issue.
I agree, there is no "let's make everyone happy" solution.
And, as Ross suggested, Conventions and larger rallies are extremely complex to turn off/on without significant financial and logistical penalties.
If events were not cancelled, would FMCA find themselves criticized for NOT following social distancing, knowing that a large number of attendees are classified as "at risk"?
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I am NOT familiar with your exact system. but please verify that the condensate drain is on the output/positive pressure side, not input/suction side of the fan.
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For information on the status other FMCA events: https://fmca.com/fmca-event-registration
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A message from FMCA President Jon Walker
I am sorry to announce that on Friday, March 20, 2020, FMCA’s Board of Directors voted to cancel the association’s 102nd International Convention & RV Expo, scheduled for August 26-29, 2020, at the Lancaster Event Center in Lincoln, Nebraska.
With so much uncertainty surrounding the COVID-19 pandemic in North America – in particular, how long it might last -- FMCA’s leadership made the complex and agonizing decision to cancel this event. For the health of our members and the association, it was the most sensible and appropriate thing to do.
Hopefully this pandemic will be under control by next spring and we can gather for our next convention scheduled for March 10-13, 2021, at the Georgia National Fairgrounds in Perry. Until then, please follow the recommendations issued by the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention to help stop the spread of COVID-19. And travel safely.
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YES, correct.
But, be very careful using a jumper wire. That battery side is usually unfused and contacting any metal would result in a dead short.
Be sure you replace it with a CONSTANT DUTY solenoid of at least the amp rating of the present one. This is a case where bigger IS better. And, usually 200 amp constant duty solenoids are not that much more than 100 amp ones. But have much more contact surface, so last longer.
Another excellent but not inexpensive upgrade that I use on both boats and my motorhomes is a https://www.bluesea.com/products/9012/L_Solenoid_-_12_24V_DC_250A
Rated for 1 MILLION cycles, 250 amps continuous. Amps to hold in closed position .13 amps.
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Several "work arounds". If stranded and need to get going, let us know and we can get you going.
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OK, 13.8 on one large post is from chassis battery
Other large red should have same with ignition switch on.
The two small terminals:
One should be 12 VDC positive with ignition on, nothing with ignition off
Other small one is ground.
SO, from small terminal to small terminal with ignition OFF= 0 VDC. With ignition on 12+ VDC.
What do you get at small terminals?
With that info we can help with further troubleshooting.
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To check the solenoid:
It will have two large lugs.
One has battery voltage all the time (between them and good chassis ground/clean metal).
The other large lug only has voltage (exact same voltage) only when the key is on.
With key on, do you have 12+ VDC to both large lugs?
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Agree.
If nothing that normally only works with ignition on works (dash HVAC fan, Allison shift pad, etc) check the IGNITION SOLENOID. The key/ignition only provides the "signal" to close the ignition solenoid. The power for all those ignition-hot circuits comes through the solenoid.
Genny stalling out
in Electrical
Posted · Report reply
Tim,
Thanks for the clarification.
Brett