mypopslou

After 3 weeks at Hershey Thousand Trails Campground, I was in the process of cleaning my RV and winterizing it as we do not plan on using it again until Spring. All of a sudden without warning I lost all Electrical Power, the refrigerator, the convection oven, entertainment system. I check the circuit breaker and every single one of them was tripped with the exception of the roof airs which I was not using at the time. In the bathroom I have a GFI plug which was also tripped and will not reset. The refrigerator switched over automatically to LP and I was able to pull my slides in via battery power. When I hit the switch for my converter to see if it would bring back power it just stated 'searching'. I have never had something like this happen before and am hoping it is just a faulty GFI and not the inverter going bad. Any suggestions, I was able to winterizing the entire coach with the exception of the washer/dryer since they only run when plugged in. I was not going to worry about it until the spring but I know there is water in the lines for the washer/dryer so to avoid complicating the matter I need to address this now. We did not have any issues during our 3 week stay, everything was working fine and we were connected to 50amp. I tried turning the power off at the pedestal and turning it back on but nothing changed. My wife was using the central vacuum system and said she twisted the hose when she pulled it out. I did not think that would matter but I pulled the plug on the unit just to see if the GFI would then reset but no luck. Thanks in advance for any help or suggestions

I have a 32 inch Jensen TV which is 8 years old. This TV is not a digital TV but has been working well for the last 8 years with a clear picture. When it is cold it takes a while for the TV to warm up but other than that we have not had an issue with it even though it is not digital. Last night while watching it the TV shut off and would not come on again. It is not a power issue as the satellite and surround sound were still on and my rear TV works fine. I tried to turn it on but no luck. The red light that usually shines bright whenever we are connected to shore power and turns green when TV is on was blinking very dimly which created static on my rear TV as it blinked. Since this is the only LCD TV I own, does anyone have any suggestions on what I could try to get it to work again or is this the way an LCD TV dies. Do I need to make a trip to my local appliance store this weekend and replace it or can it be salvaged. I appreciate any suggestions

Be careful with Ford Fusions as I have read many posts about damaged transmissions even though Ford says you can tow it 4 wheels down. I decided not to take a chance and traded my 2011 Ford Fusion for a 2014 Jeep Wrangler Sport. Although it is still early in the game, it is one of my better decisions and no worries about problems with transmission.

Jim, thanks, can I get 303 Aerospace Protectant at any auto parts store or Camping World? Looking for Jeep Wrangler Forum now and will join when I find it Thanks

Jim, I realized that on my drive home from the dealership, ever other Jeep Wrangler that passed me on the road waved. It did not take me long to catch on and now I am keenly aware of any other Jeep passing by....I love it Another question, I love to make sure my vehicles stay nice a long time so I am always making sure they have a good coat of wax. What do I use on my black hard top and my black fender that are plastic type. If I use wax I will never get it off completely and that will look terrible, but I do not know what to use to keep them looking good short of Amour All and that will not last long. Any idea's??

Read all the information about the transmission on Ford Fusion failing even though Ford says it can be towed 4 wheels down and decided I was not going to take the chance. I bought a new 2014 Jeep Wrangler Sport and the owners manual gives you very clear step by step instructions for recreational towing. The last step is the one I need help with, it says to disconnect the negative terminal on the battery. I use an EvenBrake as my supplemental brake and it needs power. Is the reason to disconnect the battery to protect it from discharge or by disconnecting the battery are there other systems that need to be powered down to avoid damage. I plan on taking my new Jeep to Camping World to install the new base plate and electrical and I want to be sure to have them connect power from Motorhome if it is absolutely necessary to disconnect the battery on my Jeep. Any help or suggestions would be appreciated

Well I finished the repair. It was a real bear getting the old element out of the hot water tank but with the tool Ultimate RV in Harrisburg PA let me borrow combined with a pair a pliers I was finally able to get the old one out. It was coated with white powder but other than that it was intact. I installed the new element and reconnected everything. I turned it on and the breaker did not trip so that is a good sign and the water seems to be heating up. It has only been on for less than 30 minutes and the water is warm so I think it is working. I was also able to tap the drain plug threads with the tool Ultimate RV let me borrow so now I know the new plug is in there tight. Remember the old plastic plug is what started this adventure. The takeaways from this experience are at least two: 1.) If you have a plastic drain plug replace it every couple of years ( a pack of 2 is $6) or else it will eventually break apart like mine did 2.) Always make sure you have water in your hot water tank. It takes less than a minute to burn out your electric element if it is not completely submerged in water. I thank everyone for your help and suggestions and I continue to keep my fingers crossed that I will have electric hot water shortly.

Thanks for all of your help and suggestions. I went to Camping World to try and buy a replacement element. The Tech there was very helpful in explaining where I would find it on the hot water heater and how to change it out. The rest of the store was no help at all as they did not have one in stock and after an hour of looking in catalogs and on the computer told me it would take a week to get the part. I went down the street to a independent RV repair shop told the owner my issue and he had the part ordered for me and I picked it up the next day for half the price Camping World told me it would be. The Independent owner, Chad even loaned me the tools to make it easier to make the switch. In addition I told him when my drain plug broke I damaged some of the threads which made it difficult to put the new drain plug in. He is also loaning me the tool to re-thread the drain plug. Also through my research I have found that if you do not have water in the hot water tank it will take less than a minute to destroy the heating element. Lesson Learned. I am going to attempt the repair this afternoon, so wish me luck and I will let you know how I do.

OK so I can put a tire whose maximum inflation is greater than what my wheel can handle. What about the load range, is a J load range tire better that an H load range tire.

Yes, I have checked the breaker and the switch I mention is to turn electric on or off, I have another switch next to it for gas. The switch lights up when I turn it on.

GCWR is 41,000 and GVWR is 31,000

Thanks for this information but looking at my hot water heater I cannot find where the elements are and how them come out. Are they located behind the plate with the 4 wires connected?? Sorry long time RVer but first time with a hot water heater problem

The plastic drain plug on my Atwood 10 gallon water heater had a slight leak so I tried to tighten it less than a quarter turn when it fell apart. Long story short it was about an hour later that I remembered that I had not turned off the electric switch to heat the water. I replaced the drain plug the next day ( and bought a spare) but the water heater is not working on the electric mode. It works fine when I switch to gas so we are thankful that I have hot water. I know when you drain the hot water heater there is usually about 2 quarts of water below the drain plug level so I do not think leaving the electric switch on should have caused a problem but obviously it has. Is there any type of reset switch that I am missing? According to the manual: When the electric switch is turned on, the relay at the rear of the unit will close and pass 110 vac to the element. If the thermostat were to fail, the ECO will open and lockout the system. To correct, check the thermostat to ensure good contact with the tank and reset the control by turning the electric switch off and on. I tried turning it off and on again and still no electric heat and since it is working fine in the gas mode I am assuming there is not a problem with the thermostat. Anyone have any ideas on what my problem could be. Thanks in advance for your help

I would like to replace my tires and take advantage of the Michelin Tire Advantage Program. I contacted Michelin because I currently have Goodyear G670 275x70x22.5 load range H on my coach and could not find the exact tire on Michelins Website. They came back and told me they did not manufacture my tire size in load range H but recommended XZA2 Energy with a load range of J. The maximum PSI on my rims is 120 lbs and Michelin gave me the specs on their recommendation of 6940 lbs @ 130 lbs single and 6395 @130 lbs duals. I do not want to change wheels so is there another size tire Michelin Manufactures that I can use or do I need to stay with Goodyears. Also I am not sure I fully understand the load range charts is load range J a better tire than load range H?? Any help or advice would be appreciated. Thanks

Well, the service tech who I was dealing with it at Freightliner checked with their Allison guy and he said it was normal, so I guess I an good to go...I think? Went back and checked my service records and have had all fuel filters changed 5000 miles ago and just did it again as that was 2 years ago.

I have 24,000 miles on the coach and have had the fuel filters changed at least once, and it is at Freightliner as we speak with instructions for an oil change and all new filters as well as PA inspection. The main fuel filter that is accessible through the trap door in the bedroom of the coach I am not sure has been changed but I specifically asked them to make sure they did it this time. I have had the oil changes with new filter on the average of once a year. When the coach had 5000 miles on it I also took it to have the transmission serviced as recommended in the manual. I have never had the fuel lift pump or the fuel pressure tested. Hopefully it is just the filters Just out of curiosity with a 6 speed transmission, when should it be shifting?

My 2006 Tuscany has a Allison MH-3000 6 speed transmission that does not seem to be shifting correctly. By the time I reach 40 miles per hour I am already in 5th gear and it will not go into 6th gear until I hit 55 mph. When decelerating it is slow to downshift but coach does not seem to be dragging. I almost feel like it is in an economy mode and is shifting quickly but I am not sure. Anyone have any suggestions, taking it to Freightliner tomorrow for Oil Change, Filter change and PA state inspection and thought I would ask them about it, the problem is every time I ask them about something it always ends up costing me big time. Thanks in advance for your advice.

Thanks for the help, my chassis is Freightliner and the wheels are 22.5 x 8.25 max 120lbs

I also live in PA and drive a DP which is over the 26001 weight limit. I went to the Penn DOT office in Harrisburg and spoke to a gentlemen who was very knowledgeable and explained the procedure to me. I read the entire CDL handbook, just because I wanted to know all I could to be as safe as I could. I found a friend with a CDL to take me for my test, which consisted of the air brake test and about an hour on the road. We went from interstates to local highways to small residential streets to make sure I could control my 40 footer under all circumstances. My experience was much different than Phaeton Driver because I was fortunate enough to find an individual at Penn DOT who knew what he was talking about and was willing to take the time to explain the process to me. We even discussed RV dealers handing the keys to a 40 foot coach to someone who largest vehicle experience was an SUV and how that was a recipe for disaster. This all happened 4 years ago but I wish I could remember the gentlemen's name as I would strongly recommend him to you. It was a real positive experience for me and I feel much more confident in my ability to handle my coach since I took the time to go through the process.

I have a 2006 Tuscany and it is time to consider new tires. I currently have Goodyear G670 275x70x22.5. Is it possible to change to a slightly taller tire without causing any problems? When I back into my driveway, I barely have enough clearance to make it and my mud guard has really taken a beating. I plan on switching to Michelins and using the FMCA tire program. Any help or suggestions would be appreciated.

Thanks for your comments, I am not leasing equipment from them so this should not be happening.

2 years ago I bought a portable satellite receiver and signed up for DISH's Pay as you go programming. Although it took a long time to finally get it setup in my motorhome, I was pleased with the service I received. When winter came and it was time to place my motorhome in storage I called DISH and asked them to stop my service as told them why. They told me I could suspend my service and it would only cost me $5 a month. I explained the program I signed up for and after being transferred several time I finally found someone at DISH that knew what I was talking about. They promised it would be corrected and that I would not be charged the $5 a month. Since that time I have had to call them about ever 3-4 months after I start receiving invoices for $5. Every time I call I get the same answers until they route me to an RV Expert who understands the program. Has anyone else had this problem as I just received another invoice today and am really frustrated and do not want to call them again. Other than this aggravation I have been pleased with their service. Any suggestions???

Lee, thanks for stepping up on this forum, I will reach out to you with my questions and concerns. Hope you and your family have a great Thanksgiving.

The quote I received is for $4000, $100 per foot with lifetime warranty. Did you do the work yourself?

I have a 2006 Tuscany motorhome by Damon and while at the Hershey Show I stopped by a booth Called RV Roof Armour. Their product is installed over existing roof by first removing any caulk or sealant. Your roof is then cleaned and prepared for the replacement roof which is a liquid rubber which adheres to the existing roof. They claim it will be the last roof you will ever need and because it is a applied as a liquid it will do a better job sealing the roof. It is guaranteed for the life of your coach, Currently my roof is secure and I do not have any leaks that I am aware of. I am considering this product because I realize it is not if but when will I have a roof leak and want to be proactive to avoid the headaches and damage that a roof leak will cause. Has anybody heard of this product or used this product. I would really like to hear any opinions or recommendations. The company is located in Bradenton Florida but will travel to PA where I am to install new roof. I believe the cost is considerably less than replacing existing roof with same product. Any help would be appreciated Mypopslou in Pa