DaveOglevie

Thank you for your responses and ideas. I'm still searching for the ultimate "anti-creep" rug idea. I'm going to try a very heavy acrylic 2'X 8' fake Persian with sticky back anti-skid. If that doesn't work then I'm moving along to pure old wool area carpets. Get out and camp! Dave

We recently finished a 5 month "snowbird" migration (Arizona desert, mostly dry camping). The coaches' previous owner covered most of the original carpeting with cheap shag carpet and screwed it down. I just pulled it out and the original carpet is in decent shape. I'd like to keep the original carpet exposed and use area rugs to cover the traffic patterns. My question to you is have you found area rugs that don't creep while on top of nylon carpet? If so, who made them and where can they be purchased? I'm aware of the anti-creep strips (we have them in our condo) but they do leave some residue on the fibers of the base carpet. I look forward to your suggestions. Best Wishes, Dave Oglevie Chelan, WA

I purchased traditional lead acid batteries. Are the gasses that the batteries give off heavy (like propane) or light? This would determine if I place the vent, eg. higher or lower in the compartment. Would two 1 1/4" holes suffice?

I had a solar system added to our coach last week. 215 watt solar panel, a Blue Sky 2000E controller, 4 six volt batteries for storage (it is working very well so far). The installers left the original coach batteries in place. The installer put the 6V's into a semi-sealed compartment just aft of my factory original generator compartment. My question is do I have to add an exterior vent to the semi-sealed compartment to allow by-products (gasses) from the additional batteries to vent to the outside? A follow up question is, what is the best placement of the hypothetical vent? I also purchased a full set of "Water Miser" battery water caps. $90 at Solar Bill's in Quartsite. Was the added option worth it? Dave

Tim, Thank your for your guidance. I ran the ignition tests on the hot water system that you suggested and have found that I do have a secure ground but that I don't have power to the ignitior. Please remember that I was able to ignite the flame with my butane lighter so the fuel is there. What is the next step I should take to try to fix the sparking device?. Parts are not immediately available as I live in a small burg? As to the furnace, yep you were correct. The heat system is controlled by the bedroom thermostat. These larger rigs are still a mystery to me. My last rig was a 21' Toyota Class C (Toybox) so I'm not used to having more than one thermostat. About the furnace, now that I have found the real control I have found that the furnace makes all of the proper responses, turns on the fans but it won't ignite the propane. Your thoughts? Dave Chelan, WA

Tim, Thank your for your guidance. I ran the ignition tests on the hot water system that you suggested and have found that I do have a secure ground but that I don't have power to the ignitior. Please remember that I was able to ignite the flame with my butane lighter so the fuel is there. What is the next step I should take to try to fix the sparking device?. Parts are not immediately available as I live in a small burg? As to the furnace, yep you were correct. The heat system is controlled by the bedroom thermostat. These larger rigs are still a mystery to me. My last rig was a 21' Toyota Class C (Toybox) so I'm not used to having more than one thermostat. About the furnace, now that I have found the real control I have found that the furnace makes all of the proper responses, turns on the fans but it won't ignite the propane. Your thoughts? Dave Chelan, WA

Tim, Thank you for your response and questions. Regarding the water heater (a Suburban SW6D), my spousal unit said she heard what sounded like a valve unit turning on while standing in the kitchen but I heard nothing while standing next to the exterior access panel. I saw no spark on the ignitor. I removed the ignitor and cleaned the electrodes. I regapped the electrode to 1/8".Still no spark even though we cycled thru several times. I did get the water heater to light by putting a butane flame next to the non-working ignitor. All of this was done while plugged into AC power (the generator is yet another project). The furnace is on a shared thermostat with a Magic Fan, and may tied to a second thermostat in the bedroom that controls the two air conditioners. I hadn't thought of the second thermostat until you asked so now I have yet another variable to test. Thank you for pointing it out. I haven't had a chance to try the A/C's as I don't have access to a 30 amp power supply. Best Wishes, Dave

I recently acquired a used 31-foot 1995 Rexhall Aerbus with 79K miles). I have since spent several thousands of dollars (deferred maintenance). New radiator, tires, shocks, full tuneup, all fluids flushed and refilled, awning, window seals, and many more small items that we have fixed and forgotten. What I haven't gotten done are two things. Our furnace doesn't ignite and I have to manually have to light our hot water heater. These are both luxury items, since our last RV was a small Toyota-based Itasca. Do any of you reading this have any wisdom that you might care to share about finicky furnaces or how to get our water heater to self ignite? Thanks, Dave

I have a '95 Rexhall Aerbus that has a fiberglass front cap. It looked like it was one of the old rockers from KISS, weeping white all over the front end. My way of dealing with the oxidation was scrub it away by using 3M Fiberglass cleaner/restorer usually used on faded fiberglass yachts. My recently acquired vehicle had been sitting uncovered for several years. It took about 5 different rags to get the initial oxidation off. Now I can use a power buffer without clogging the pads. My biceps are much improved and now they will get another workout as I put on an additional coat of wax. Gee, think I have improved my MPG? Dave

Jor, May I pick your brain about towing a Subaru Legacy? I've just graduated to a class A that has enough power to tow a dinghy. My last rig was a Toyota based 21' and it was not a tow capable vehicle. I have a '95 AWD Subaru Legacy 5 speed manual transmission wagon that we have owned since new (thus I know and trust the car). I have read that Legacy's can be towed. I am hesitant to tow this until I learn more about what is needed, eg. a transmission cooler. Can you tell me how your Legacy was set up and give me some tips? I have been planning on having my spouse follow as we head south. Can these older Subarus be towed without damage? Your thoughts and experience will be greatly appreciated. BTW, do you happen to have a Roadmaster 909-1 front rig available? If so I would like to purchase it. Dave Oglevie Chelan, WA

Thank you for the prompt response. A local RV shop told me it wasn't towable. Thank you for the welcome. I'm newbie to Class A's. My small Toyota wasn't able to tow so this is a learning experience. Dave Oglevie Chelan, WA

Is it possible to tow a standard shift 5 speed transmission AWD Subaru? If so are there any modifications that need to be made?