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  1. I spent several hours looking at the wiring diagrams in the owners manual and checking things. I discovered that there is a Green Wire running from the front panel (under drivers window) to the rear panel (last bay on passenger side) that connects to a solenoid. It was barely holding on and came off when I pulled on it. I reattached it and tested the slides. They worked fine. I then closed the coach up and took it for test drive. NO BRAKE LIGHT, NO BEEPING!!!! It appears that both issues were the result of that one loose wire. We will be heading to the Grand Canyon in the morning. Thanks for the help. Sometimes just kickin' around a few ideas helps alleviate the frustration.
  2. I appreciate the helpful hints. Cooling level sounds a bit off the wall, as you said, but what the heck. I will check it out. I will also call Gaffney and also try to get wiring diagrams. I researched purchasing the repair manuals, but I was told by the parts guy (in Austin, TX) that they did not include wiring diagrams. Do you know if this is true? Do they include wiring diagrams?
  3. We are currently sitting at a RV Park in Albuquerque. Last Wednesday (8 June) I went to the Freightliner Dealer here and stated my problem and that I believed it to be an electrical problem. He said that I could come to the shop on Friday (10 June) at 6:30 AM and they would PROBABLY be able to take a look at it mid-morning (they operate on a first-come-first-served system). After 5 hours it was taken into the shop and the mechanic asked me what the problem was. He said that the Brake Light was not on when he drove it into the shop. I started the RV, Pushed in the Brake Air Release and put it in Drive. The buzzer and light started immediately. I told him that I had changed the Low Pressure Switch with no change to the problem and that I thought it was an electrical problem, maybe a short or relay or something. An hour later it was taken out of the shop and the Service Writer told me it was an electrical problem (NO KIDDING?). He said they may be able to get it into the shop on the following Tuesday ( 14 June) depending on how long it takes to fix the vehicles ahead of me. I honestly do not have much faith in their ability to find the problem and I can't imagine the cost. I would hate to spend $1000 and have the issue arise again when I am 50 miles away. I specifically chose a Freightliner Dealership because I wanted; it done right. I am just not comfortable with the way things are going. Anyway, since I am stuck here for a week, I decided I might try finding the problem myself.
  4. The alarm sounds while driving. Sometimes it starts immediately after putting the transmission in Drive (after releasing the brake). Most of the time it is activated / deactivated by bumps in the road. Any idea where that common ground would be?
  5. I have a 2008 Freightliner chassis (Tiffin Pheaton, 40 ft). My Parking Brake Light comes on intermittently while driving down the road. The air pressure is good (brakes do not engage). I have had this problem for about a year. The problem is more constant now, then intermittent and I need to fix it. I have replace the Low Pressure Switch located beneath the Park Brake Release Knob. I have even bypassed the Low Pressure Switch by replacing it with an On/Off switch. The problem continues. I heard there is another type of switch located somewhere else. Can someone tell me where it might be. I have called Gaffney and they told me it was probably something Tiffion hooked to it. I called Tiffin and they said they have nothing connected to that system. Please help. In addition to the brake warning light and buzzer, my driving lights turn off and on in unison with the brake warning light and buzzer. A new development is that my electric slide outs (2) seem to be acting up in that I sometimes have to move the ignition switch on and off a couple times to get them to work. Thanks. ( I have seen several forums related to this problem but have never heard from anyone who had actually corrected it.
  6. I believe the reason that some 4x4's require a driveshaft disconnect and others don't, is because the transfer case does not totally disconnect from the transmission. Back in the day, all 4x4's had a shifter that gave you the option of putting the transfer case in 4-low, 4-high,neutral or 2-high. Many of the newer 4x4's have a button which shifts the transfer case either electrically or through hydraulics. Many times the button system does not give the option of Neutral. The Colorado has the neutral button option and, I think, the owners manual states it can be towed 4-down. I was planning on buying a 4x4 Colorado to tow 4-down and spoke with a guy at the VFW who towed his 4x4 Colorado with transfer case in neutral, NO PROBLEMS. I ended up, however, buying a 2WD Colorado and will put a Driveshaft Disconnect on it. To answer the question: All transfer cases are not created equal. I currently tow a 4x4 Jeep Cherokee with a manual transfer case. I put it in Neutral and the Automatic Transmission in Park.
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