cwschnepf

All this because of my typo error. So sorry. It should have been Cabot's fence cleaner, It's sparkling white and smooth as new.

After alot of input I now have a clean roof. Thanks to all of you who posted info for me to try. I found Cacot's fence cleaner performed the best with the least work. I tried six different cleaners on my last trip to clean. I hope I don't let it get that dirty again.

It is fiber glass

Thank you I will try tomorrow.

I am cleaning my coach and the top is like orange peel paint. It also looks soiled in the pit likes. Can tree sap or mildew/mold eat the finish? What can I clean it with? I have tried scrub brushes and RV cleaners and pressure washer at 100#. I feel like taking a floor scrubber to it.

Ambyn, I have resolved my motor problem. Please see my post under electrical forum. You can do iy. cwschnepf@yahoo.com

There are alot of factors that affect the temperature drop across a cooling coil. Humidity is the big one. Air fllow is critical and the sheet metal needs to be installed correct and use a sealant tape between the sheet metal joints. Being the refrigerant system has welded connectins I would not expect you to be low on refrigerant. Most coils are designed for a ten or twenty degree drop. The air coming off the condernsor should be twenty degrees above the ambient temperature. That is how old timers use to charge a system. Today charging requires a thermometer and pressure gage. Then you set it up by super heat. I would recommend a second repair shop. Some residential servicemen will service it for you. R.S.E.S. certifications are a good way to sort out serviice men. (Refrigeration Servce Engineers Society)

We had a similar problem. My wife fixed it by hooking a short bungee cord from the oven door handle to a burner. I love cookies and could not stand to look at it so I found replacement hinges at Campers world. Oven works. I wasn't embarrassed trouble shooting it, and I get my cookies.

I appear to have the problem resolved. The awning is 12 years old and the motor is not to be found. Tom's RV Parts in Fla had two look alikes that had been saved from awnings which were replaced. I did not get the actual part number. He has two listed on EBay. On my first call to Dometic I was told it is so old we don't have any documentation. (which means I don't want to get out of my chair) Today I called Dometic at 574-274-2311 and talked to a Janelle. She was very pleasant. She told me the part number on the motor is incorrect, gave me the new part number, and shipped it out today. Cost is $359.99 plus $25.00 shipping. Ebay was $155.00 plus $25.00 shipping. I hope this will help others. Also instructions (men don't need) come with the motor. I recommend you wait until you have the instructions in hand before starting on this project.

Ambyn, I am in the same boat. The drive motor is on the front end of the awning tube. Your awning info should be on the inside of the tube near the motor. (mod,ser,etc) Inside the arm near there is a rubber connector with two wires. Unplug it and If you can measure 12 volts there when the switch is depressed and the 12 volt polarity reverses when the switch is depressed the other way it must be th motor. I find they cost ~ $155.00 and would expect the installation directions will come with it. I will order mine tomorrow and should have it in a few days and will post if this is all true. Chris in Kingston

Thanks to all for all the advice. I had searched the internet but the new sites you recommended are what I was looking for. Thanks again and may I pass the help on.

Thanks for your input. I will follow your advice.

It is an A&E awning on a 2002 Allegro Bus. The model # is 716AN18.0018 Prod # 958303194 Ser # 14691958 11-26-01 This info was found on the inside of the the extended awning near the front. Well hidden for a novice to find. Thanks for any help. Update today there is two wires to the motor. There is 12 volts when the switch is depressed and the polarity reverses when the switch is rocked the other way.

I have a '02 Bus with a fog light out (broken). When I ordered the size I ended up with a running light. I appreciate all the conversation you generated as it will help replace mine.

My awning is down and won't go up. I have 12 Volts to the controller. Can anyone tell me what color wires go to the awning?? I desire a wiring print of this system in the worst way.

The problem is solved. The cause was wife and I leaned on the open door while lighting the pilot. I was told some gifted persons can retorque the hinges. Not knowing if I am gifted I ordered new hinges from CW. The spring is in the hinge design. Thanks to all who responded.

We experienced similar problem in the high heat this summer. After replacing the control circuit board it is operating like new. Go figure ??

Thank you for your input. I had the hinges out and did not see any springs. I will call Atwood.

I have water getting into my ice cube tub. I have cut back on the cube size. I need some ideas.

My Atwood oven door does not close at the top. A bungee cord works but I need a fix. New hinges??

Dale, moved here 6 years ago from Indy. We are located in Kingston. There is ample storage at the storage places. Storage units are big here. Are you sure you want to spend time in Memphis. It is good for a day visit but most don't stay much longer. The beauty to most is the mountains (Smokies) and Nashville. Good Luck hope you enjoy your trip.

When your evaporator coil ices over it is usually a sign the unit is not picking up enough heat from your camper. First check would be to pull down the filter at the ceiling and let it run for a few hours. If it works wash out or replace the filter. You didn't say the age of your camper but there is a possibility the gaskets directing the air through the coil may be failing or not placed properly to do the job. Second the fan may be slipping on the shaft. You need a long allen wrench to tighten the set screw in the fan collar. I hope this helps you..