campcop
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Posts posted by campcop
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We tow a 2013 Jeep Wrangler 4wd. I just put transfer case in neutral, auto trans in park and remove the key...That ' s what manual calls for. I charge the battery for the braking system with power from MH.
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Blue Ox used here...
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I never start our Jeep. But as noted some vehicles require the engine to be run to lubricate the transmission. I fixed the dead battery problem by charging the toad battery off the MH when running, this prevents the toad braking system from discharging the toad battery.
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We have a similar chassis, get between 6.5 and 8.00 depending on terrain and wind..have no trouble towing our Wrangler which is about 4000 lbs. MH weight is usually around 19k.
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What slide is it? The one for the bed usually has the slide motor under the bed itself. Usually have to remove a panel. On ours the panel is the whole storage floor under the bed.
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What you're doing is changing the speed setting, most likely to a slower setting, that's why it will stop down shifting. I have the same unit, when I come to a steep hill that I know will cause a downshift, I just kick the cruise off, this usually keeps it from downshifting so far the engine is screaming..
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I flat flat tow but i have the battery charged via the MH. Simple connection, fused wire from toad battery positive to the battery connection at the 7 pin connector.
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I had the very same problem while coming down the El Cajon pass in So. Calif.
I was in cruise control and also out of overdrive/tow-haul and the trans was shifting down and it too was taching about 4800 rpm and when I tried to disengage, the trans wouldn't. I also couldn't take it out of tow-haul and I had to hard brake and then when it slowed down it finally shifted.
When I got home,about 20 miles from the Cajon, I noticed that the trans was leaking trans fluid onto the ground. The temp gauge did not show any temp rise and it appeared that the trans was pushing fluid out the top vent.
This is a 2011 Southwind with 2500 miles on it. The first Ford dealer hosed off the trans and drove it and said it was fine. But in subsequent trips, hard pulls and not so hard the trans still pushed out fluid. So look under your coach for the tell tail signs of transmission fluid puddling on the top of the trans or along the underside where it's saturating your coach.
The coach is back at another Ford dealership and they believe that a pressure valve is stuck, an internal problem and hopefully Ford will do more than just hose it off and tell me it's OK.
Leaking fluid on the road by the way is against the law, as it's toxic and a hazardous material which you could be fined and charged for clean up costs. Also spilling trans fluid on the roadway is dangerous. if enough is sprayed underneath it can involve the rear tires and cause you to swap ends at the most unexpected time and hurt yourself, your family or some other driver.
Are there others out there who have had this little glitch, and if so,how was it resolved?
Was the issue resolved?? I was under mine the other day after returning from a cross country trip and I found trans fluid on the top and the case was wet also. Not a lot but something to get my attention......
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I am understanding that you have a Ford 2012 gasser. If that is the case then you probably so NOT have Alcoa wheels. They are Ford Motor Company wheels made in Taiwan. Take a close look at your wheel(s) and you will see the Ford ID. Of course you still have the milky finish condition for which I have no answer. The best I know is that the wheels are clear coated and should only need a mild soap wash to keep them looking good.
Agree, mine are clearly stamped FORD and made in Taiwan.......The rear wheels will be easier to find the stamp. If its a Ford wheel then you will need to go through Ford......good luck with that..
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I had one on my 5th wheel, my Winnebago did not come with a quick connect so I installed one right after the regulator, cost only a few $$ for the parts. Very simple..As someone said, the regulator on the grille must be removed. I installed a shutoff along with a self closing quick disconnect just to be on the safe side...Any decent propane place should have the parts you need.
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I tow a Jeep Wrangler, small, fairly light and can go where others cannot
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I don't know what state you are from but after reading the troubles you have had and the response from the manufacturer.... "lemon law" comes to mind...
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I don't know what your relationship is with your dealer but if they used an abrasive to "fix" your wheels......I think they are on the hook for any warranty issues if Alcoa says their warranty was voided. As far as tire coating, our MH came with that junk on them, that was the first thing I washed off....
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I had a similar leak when we first got our Vista and it appears that you have the same type windows. I noticed our leak only in the drivers side window and only found it by chance when after washing the rig, decided to clean the inside windows. I found water in the bottom rail. After searching on a step ladder, I found that the front cap trim that was over the drivers side window had a small gap that had not been caulked with clear caulk...used a clear Big Stretch caulk that does not shrink and will stretch. Problem solved, no leaks after a summer of rain in the northeast.
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Just completed a trip across to CT from NM and back. Mileage ranged from 6.4 to 7.5, running at 65mph most of the time (except big hills) with a toad.
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The numbers you give for pressure don't seem all that low. If you are really concerned, call CAT tech and ask them what you should be running.
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Why would you want to install plugs on both ends of the EMS? As far as I know, these units are not made to be in the weather so they must be installed inside the coach. Its pretty easy to install one, I have installed two now in two separate RVs. I found the hardest part was running the wire for the remote monitor. If its installed right near the transfer box, it should be easy to access should the need arise and servicing them is pretty straight forward with only a few serviceable parts..
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One of the reasons I got a mostly white MH
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Well..... got the MH weighed and then the front end aligned. The weight was in the OK specs with 36% on the front axle. i could not find a scale that did all 4 corners though. I then had the front end aligned, it was toed in quite a bit out of spec according to the tech. I further adjusted the tire pressure to the present weight, I also have a steering stabilizer on the front and a trac bar on the rear now.
I have to say there is quite a bit of difference from the last trip...No more pulling to the left and diving. i even had a few trucks pass me , could still feel them but not nearly as bad as before.
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Redflex is the usual provider for the cameras, Google them for some interesting reading
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Check out yellow light requirements in an AASHTO book. You can probably get one at a local library or at city traffic engineers office. This book is what cities and states go by..
Here in NM cities have started to use the red light cameras. There are and have been several court cases involving them, in Las Cruces, the city is owed about 1-2 million in fines already that folks refuse to pay...here its a civil penalty..
You can always demand a hearing, require all testing, calibration on the apparatus etc....
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I thought of waxing my roof, then......thought about having to walk on it when it might be wet
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If you have a Jeep Wrangler, I would certainly tow with all 4 down....
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We have a bigger problem here, pack rats........had them get into my 5th wheel one year, took me couple of days to clean out the mess and repair the damage. I now have a solar powered light that lights the engine compartment each night for the pack rats(they don't like light) and I use traps with peanut butter once in awhile as well. I do use the oil of peppermint too.
In inspecting the bottom of our Vista, I see that it is pretty sealed...so far so good.
2013 Tiffin 34tga
in Type A motorhomes
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I think those with a shorter MH are getting a tad better but nothing to write home about , just bragging rights at the campfire