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Please believe me that I am not arguing, but more or less proving Brett's point that there is no one size fits all (also, to each his/her own)... I want an inertia type supplemental brake system, because I want a system that will also help when I am using the exhaust brake. This is why I'm leaning toward the ReadyBrute Elite.

I'm like you, and have been doing some research for immediate installation in a '14 Chevy Sonic. So far, I'm leaning towards the ReadyBrute Elite. I'm looking for the least intrusive proportional braking system that I can find. BTW... this may get better mileage in the Towing forum.

Greetings to all. Besides the obvious hardware, can anyone tell me the difference or need between RoadMaster's EZ-4 and EZ-5 baseplate? Now that I have my flat towing capable toad, I'm ready to get a baseplate. I prefer RoadMaster and was all set to get the 523173-4 (EZ-4 for a 2014 Chevy Sonic) baseplate when I learned that I still had to get additional brackets and a cross bar to attach a tow bar. For the same price, I can get the 523173-5 (EZ-5) baseplate which terminates with arms that look like they will attach directly to a tow bar... no additional hardware required. Does anyone know of a reason why someone would get a RoadMaster EZ-4 baseplate when they can get the RoadMaster EZ-5 baseplate which will do the same thing with less hardware (less places for something to go wrong)... or am I missing something???

If you look at this month's FMCA magazine, it covers mineral oil. Going by it, mineral oil will do more harm than good. Just sayin'... Take a look at the article.

Which Vista? I'm very happy with mine.

Found the answer in case someone stumbles on this while searching. While researching, I went to Tenkosha's site to ensure that the 3035-P was the correct wiring harness and plug for my F53 chassis. well, not only was it the correct harness and plug, but the picture showed a 6-pin plug with only 4 wires attached.

Well I guess this is a simple question, I just don't know the answer. I'm getting ready to order a brake controller and since my Winnie Vista 35B ('12 Ford F-53 chassis) is already 7-pin prewired, I'm planning on installing the controller myself. Today, I went under the dash and located the existing plug for the controller. The odd thing to me is that the plug only has 4 wires. Does this sound normal? My guess is that things like the lights (stop, turn signal and reverse if applicable) are already wired to the 7-pin plug from the respective harnesses and that the controller dash plug only has the wiring necessary for electric braking. Would this be a correct assumption? Thanks...

Thanks again to all. I knew about the bouncy bouncy issue of towing an empty dolly, and have heard about folk who drop their air pressure to try to absorb some of the bounce. I just want to make sure that when I arrive to pick up the dolly, that I will at least have enough knowledge to bring it back home where I can learn more. I did read on another forum about a caution that I had not thought about, but makes a whole lot of since. Keep an eye on the ball hardware to ensure that it does not vibrate loose, and possibly off from the bouncing dolly while returning home! Again, thanks to all.

Sorry for reviving an old thread, but this is completely related. Well, I'm now settled and ready to get the Master Tow with electric brakes. While I have driven motorhomes with toads attached, that was always for others and I was never involved in the prep. So what will I need to go with the dolly for my very own dolly toad (the dolly is a given)? Here's what I know that I need: - 2" ball to go into hitch (this might need to have a drop due to the height of my rear end) - safety chains - tire straps - electric brake controller My Vista already has the 5,000 pound rated hitch with a 500 pound rated tongue weight, and a 7-pin connector that came with the round large bullet looking thingy with the two ears to the side at the end (cable connector for 7-pin plug). Am I missing anything else? I'm hoping to pick this dolly up next week, and since I'll be bringing it back empty, I'm not too worried about learning on the run as I bring it back. As always, thanks to all.

I just wanted to say thanks to all. I found a reference to the "WaterSticks" brand water softeners. The pro is that they can be used at any angle and do not have to be stored upright like the FlowPur and others. The con is that due to their smaller size, their capacity is not as high as the FlowPur and others, but one of the pros to that con is that they do not take as long to recharge. So again thanks to all, and I may have my answer.

I would like to put a water softener in my coach sometime this season. The water/sewage service bay is too crowded and not tall enough for a water softener or even water filters. What I am thinking about doing is running a line from the water fill/city water input about 14 feet to a basement bay that has plenty of room for a water softener and water filters, and then back (return) to the location where the current water input connects to the plumbing. I've looked up under the coach, and none of the water lines are visible. My guess is because they run inside the coach to take advantage of the heating. Outside of quicker exposure to freezing temps, is there anything wrong with running a 14-foot line on the undercarriage to connect to a water softener/filter, then return the 14-feet to the plumbing? Are there any other cons that I might be missing? I probably won't do this job myself, but I would like to have a water softener for all incoming water.

WOW!!! So far, it sure doesn't look like there's reason to pay double for the RoadMaster when the Master Tow does not appear to lack anything functionally that the RoadMaster has. However, as an FYI according to the two different manuals, the Master Tow only comes with ST205/75D 14 LRC or ST205/75R 15 LRC tires while the RoadMaster comes with a larger ST215/75R 14 tire. With that in mind, I would think the tires of the RoadMaster should be better than the tires on the Master Tow unless you're experiencing some type of alignment issue(s). But again, I really do not have ANY knowledge on dollies, and have truly appreciated ALL of the help!

Thanks to all thus far. Does the Master Tow present any possible dolly to car contact on tight turns (never used a dolly before)?

Hello all. I am considering a dolly for my '13 Winnebago Vista 35B. Please do not turn this into a dinghy -vs- dolly, because I am set on a dolly... at least for the next couple years. The other thing that I am set on is that I want electric brakes because that is what is recommended by the manual (direct from the Vista 35B/F manual, "We do not recommend the usage of a “surgestyle” braking device"). So now with that out of the way... not trying to sound harsh, I'm just set on an electric brake dolly for now... here's where I'm soliciting opinions/experiences. I have pretty much narrowed my search-research down to either a Master Tow 80THD-EB or a RoadMaster 2000-1. The biggest differences that I see are that the Master Tow has a steering carrying pan, and that the RoadMaster has steerable wheels. The only other known "big" difference is that the RoadMaster is twice the cost of the Master Tow. The hardest part for me to understand is what makes the RoadMaster "worth" or should I say cost twice the price of the Master Tow? Can anyone comment on either of these models... **or**... maybe another model electric brake tow dolly that I may have missed. Thanks to all.

+1. From my own experiences and the others that I have seen, I think the later F53s are doing 6 - 8.

Talk about boys toys!!! Sorry Herman, couldn't resist that one .

Looking at the tire calculator on 1010 tires, I couldn't use 22.5, so I substituted 22s. Using 295/80R22 on the front and 295/75R22 on the rear results in 15 more revolutions per mile on the rear tires, so the rears will wear faster. You can play with the numbers on 1010's Tire Size Calcuulator: http://www.1010tires.com/tiresizecalculator.asp.

That looks like the typical car compressor. Have you actually been successful using that with the high pressure RV tirres?

While our first ever maiden voyage was an absolute pleasure for us, please keep this family in your prayers. We were probably just a little over 100 yards away, and the shock wave shook our class A: http://www.fox43tv.com/dpps/news/local/campers-help-family-escape-rv-fire_4186932

I am sorry to hear that you are having a problem. Concerning the OP, as mentioned, Kiley Mold did get back to me and explained what happened. Their explanation was acceptable and as promised, I received my brackets. While I do understand your frustration, I know that we all make misteaks (phun intended, but nothing aimed at you), and that is how I view what happened concerning my order.

Ok all, I didn't want this post to be in a reply where it would get lost with "other" information. I would be wrong if I did not share my conclusion with the forum. I was contacted by FMCA this morning out of concern. Their concern was that something in the ordering process must have gone wrong, and they wanted to get to the bottom of it. They also carbon copied Kiley Mold. Kiley Mold replied shortly afterward apologetically explaining what happened... yes, computers! Either way, they are fixing it and mailing today. With that, my conclusion that I am sharing is that I am totally happy with FMCA ***AND*** Kiley Mold. I do not dismiss my alarms that triggered my OP, they are what protect me from being taken. However, as I hope I relayed in my OP and first reply, I understood that it could have been a non-human error... which it was. No ranting intended, I'm still extremely happy with FMCA, ***AND*** I would order from Kiley Mold again. ***** CONCLUDED *****

While I fully understand your explanation, my discovery was made at a time (just before my post) that I would not expect anyone to be answering phones. Also while I hope this does not sound harsh, it answering email is not an option, don't list it! IOW, email should get just as much priority as phone. Understood. It's just the fact that the email bounces as "no such user" is what unhinged me somewhat. Sure, I've seen many bounces before, but when an addess of "Support@xxxx" bounces, I start to wonder if the business is real.

Thank you for the kinds words considering Kiley Mold. I try to be an understanding person (not hard, normally just do) and realize that things can happen. However, poor customer service has always bothered me, and I will spend my hard earned money where appreciation for the customer is returned. WIth that said, I also realize that I have not yet seen their customer service since I have not gotten through to them yet, a part of customer service. The fact that my money was taken the next day, and no communication afterwards is the bad taste part. Sure it's only $16.00, but I am the one who worked for the money... when I walk by a penny in the street, I will pick it up and say to myself, "Millions are made a penny at a time". My hope is that this will all work out but so far, they are not that high on my list of accepable businesses. [Rant mode off].

Almost two weeks ago, I ordered a ladder bracket from Kiley Mold Co. for my FMCA egg. While I received my order confirmation right away and my credit card was charged the very next day, I have yet to receive my ladder bracket or a shipping notification from Kiley Mold. I just sent them an email asking about the status of the order (Support@KileyMold.com), and the email has bounced with the notification, "550 550 No Such User Here (state 13)." I had no reservations what-so-ever about placing this order since Kiley Mold was "endorsed" by FMCA in my welcome packet. However, this has left a very bad taste in my mouth for Kiley Mold, and I don't want it to cause me have a bad opinion of FMCA (I don't at this time), so I just wanted to ask if anyone else has ever had a problem ordering from Kiley Mold Company.

Since this is our first coach, and just considered a starter coach, it is much easier to get "approval" from the DW if I can show her that my more expensive desires will be easily removable if/WHEN we trade up. The purpose of the plugs is so the EMS can be "plugged" inline and removed just as easily. I still have not taken the actual task on because the size of the 6 guage wiring coupled with the very tight installation area is intimidating to me. I'm now leaning on taking everything (which I already have at the ready) to an electrician who I have dealt with before, and just paying him for "time served" to wire the plugs and outlets.